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Subaru Legacy/Outback Wagons Maintenance & Repair

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  • Factory (Subaru) or after-market wheels?
    If by chance they are after-market, the center holes may be too big... the wheels could be perfectly balanced off the car, but if they aren't on-center when they're mounted, it won't matter. Without inserts to take up the slack, they could be off-center.

    (Voice of experience - I've been through the same process)

    Good luck.
    Cheers!
    Paul
  • krallkrall Posts: 17
    That's interesting - however mine are factory wheels (rims).

    Believe it or not, I took both front wheels off last night and through the old pads back on just to see what would happen. Now the wheel shake appears to be gone. I've driven at variable speeds and braked rather had, but as of yet can't duplicate the shake that was present before.

    Does this mean that the rotor is not warped or did putting the old pads on compensate for some degree of warping and it's only a matter of time until the symptom re-appears.
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 8,403
    I really don't think the issue has to do with the brakes. If your rotors were warped, they would cause a shake every time you applied them. I'm still leaning toward tie rods and/or ball joints. These joints, only worn, are not a problem a visual inspection will catch. They have to be tested.
  • Good news all around. Dealer did the head-gaskets, various new seals, hoses, thermostat and flush of the radiator.

    Called Subaru and inquired about it. Forwarded relevant invoices and such including the 2004 recall for the cooling system additive.

    Subaru is forwarding a check for the labor. This is awesome seeing as I have 106k on the car and it is almost 9 years old.

    Thank you Subaru!
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    bit: good news, thanks for the follow-up report.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,615
    FAN-tastic. That is a surprise. I guess this is a lesson in keeping really good records.

    MODERATOR

  • I have to admit that good records and Subaru dealer maintenance made this whole issue a positive outcome for me. Subaru USA had access to all records but couldn't find my compliance with a 2004 recall notice. I had the doc but the VIN was wrong (absolutely a worthless dealer now out of business) and faxed the doc to Subaru.

    Keep records.

    zbit
  • krallkrall Posts: 17
    The following website describes how to replace the in-cabin air filter.
    http://www.cars101.com/subaru/airfiltration.html#00-04legacy

    I've got an '01 Outback wagon and having a hard time with step No1 (removing glove box). When I push in the sides of the glove box I can't reach the back-side of the knock pins to get them to unhook. Someone suggested to me that I could leave them in place and just push in both sides of the glove box on drag it out. I've tried this and it seems like I'll end-up breaking the glove box. Does anyone have a trick to remove the knock pinsif OR can I simply leave the knock pins in place and squeeze the heal out of the box to remove. I don't want to break anything.

    Thanks in advance.
  • Just got back from my friends (who used to work at the Subaru dealership) and we believe we have a theory on the wheel shake: something in the awd system is causing power to be distributed somewhat unevenly to the wheels. Put a fuse in to disengage the awd system and see if it makes the shake go away. It seemed to make a noticeable difference in my '01. Our theory is that there is either a valve that is not working perfectly, or some type of clutch is not engaging correctly, etc. One of my friends thinks that it could be something that might just need a fluid change in the differential system, or it could need some other part inside the differential system. Basically, it could be something binding and causing the power to be distributed in a way to cause the shake. Just something else to try.
  • Just got back from my friends (who used to work at the Subaru dealership) and we believe we have a theory on the wheel shake: something in the awd system is causing power to be distributed somewhat unevenly to the wheels. Put a fuse in to disengage the awd system and see if it makes the shake go away. It seemed to make a noticeable difference in my '01. Our theory is that there is either a valve that is not working perfectly, or some type of clutch is not engaging correctly, etc. One of my friends thinks that it could be something that might just need a fluid change in the differential system, or it could need some other part inside the differential system. Basically, it could be something binding and causing the power to be distributed in a way to cause the shake. Just something else to try.
  • No it's lousy rotors. After you get them turned they'll be fine. For a while.
  • krallkrall Posts: 17
    Thanks for the input, I just had a new center diff put in by a dealer and the shake started there after. How would I put a fuse in to disengage the AWD system?

    I also recently had the rotors cut (turned) and that made a huge difference, but I still get a slight *intermittent* wheel shake, sometimes it's pronounced, sometimes it barely there. Although I have new tires, that were aligned and balanced, someone suggested that they may still be out of balance... Hate to keep paying for balancing.

    Appreciate the info on the fuse and AWD system!
  • On my '01 the fuse box is in the engine bay on the drivers side, and the spot for the fuse to disable the awd was in the back/left spot (from the front). The inside of the cover should tell you what goes where. I put a 15amp fuse in and it seemed to do the job. You will see a red "FWD" light come on on the right side of the instrument panel if your car is like mine. I drove it for about 1/4 mile and the shaking went away. I took the fuse back out and it seemed better but was off and on worse or better while driving it home (worse when I turned to the right, better when I turned to the left - mine seems really weird). Maybe something is getting bound up inside the transfer case. I have noticed that after the car is up with all wheels off the ground (oil change, etc.) it seems to get better or mostly go away. Perhaps getting all of the tires off the ground allows something to "unbind" somehow. Something else to try possibly.
  • gjksngjksn Posts: 35
    Should one check the oil when the engine is cold or when the engine is warmed up?
  • What you have heard is not true. The 08 Outback DOES have adjustable fog lights.

    To adjust them you'll need just a short screw driver.

    First get under the car and undo the clips that hold the plastic wheel well in place. Let that hang to the side and you'll see the fog light just in front of the wheel. There are several screws that hold the fog light in place and just one to adjust it. The ones holding it in place all look the same, leave those alone. The one to adjust the beam is screwed into a small contraption towards the top of the fog light. You'll need quite a few rotations of the adjustment screw to see any difference.

    Hopefully this is helpful. Although, if when you get down there, you have trouble send me a message and I'll see if I cant get under my car to snap a photo or something.

    Good luck!
    Hunter
  • Either way... there is a notch in the dip stick to show where the oil ought to be when the engine is hot.
  • i have a 2006 liberty (legacy) GT wagon and was looking at putting an exhaust system on it and know someone who has a brand new system for the same model but its a sedan. will this work? please help? :confuse:
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    I think so but I'm not sure.

    Anyone confirm?
  • zman3zman3 Posts: 857
    That you're not sure?
  • I think I may have a solution for you on your brake shaking. I have seen rust get between the brake rotor and the hub and get lodged there and then the rotor doesn't lay perfectly flat against the hub. A piece of rust falls off the rotor right between the hub and rotor and when you tighten the lug nuts you compress this rust but just enough to cause a shimmy. Remove the rotor and inspect the back side very carefully and even take a abrasive wheel to the hub and rotor and clean up the area real good then tap the rotor at it's edge to knock off any rust before you put it back on the hub. Then I would clean the rotor face that the wheel contacts to be sure the wheel is square to the rotor. Hope this helps.
  • My 2005 outback has seat heaters. The drivers seat does not seem to heat but the passenger seat does. Wondering if this is a fuse/relay problem or what?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,615
    I'm discussing this with you already in ANSWERS where you have a duplicate post about this problem.

    YOUR QUESTION

    Try to pick one place or the other to discuss it, as we don't want to be duplicating efforts. Thanks!

    Visiting Host

    MODERATOR

  • I'm having the same problem with the front sunroof and the rear sunroof. In the carwash, the rear sunroof leaks out and down the rear center seatbelt. The front leaks and runs down the passenger side of windshield in heavy rain.
    I'll try your suggestions. Since my Legacy is 6 years old, maybe the tube has begun to shrink and pull loose as well. Thanks for the post....

    Mark
    2003 Legacy Wagon L+
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,615
    Actually, duplicates here in Forums and in Answers is okay, since they are often visited by two different groups of people. What's less desirable and efficient is duplicate posts in two similar topics here in the Forums.

    MODERATOR

  • flyosflyos Posts: 8
    Hi, I'm hoping some of you knowledgable folks can help me out:

    The other day a new noise cropped up in my '02 Outback (119k miles, manual transmission). It only happens when I'm in gear (first or reverse) and start letting out the clutch. I hear a sort of high-pitched whirring sound that lasts for maybe a second or two - it goes away after I get the car up to a certain speed. It goes away abruptly, not gradually, as I gain speed. It almost sounds like a squeaking belt (like a power steering belt when it gets wet). I also hear it very briefly when I shift from first to second.

    I don't know how the hill-holder mechanism works - any chance this is related? Maybe something is starting to fail in that mechanism?

    Any ideas?

    Thanks!!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,615
    Could be a bad throw-out bearing in the clutch, or a worn clutch pilot bearing (a brass collar or bearing that fits into the flywheel) if, in fact, it isn't a belt noise or an idler pulley bearing in the engine's belt system.

    MODERATOR

  • flyosflyos Posts: 8
    Hmm, sounds possible (and possibly expensive :( ). I recently had a bad oxygen sensor that was leaning the engine way back. The only way I could get the car going without stalling was by slipping the clutch, which I fear caused some premature wear. The clutch seems to be OK, although I'm sure I could make it slip if I floored it in 4th or 5th from a relatively low rpm.

    Seems like I have some clutch work in my future. In 20+ years of manual transmissions, I've never had to replace one. Can you give me a sense of how much this job will cost?

    Thanks!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,615
    You can have a worn throw out bearing or pilot bearing with the clutch slipping actually.

    Cost? It would be the cost of a "clutch kit" (disk, pressure plate, TO bearing, pilot bearing) + about 4.5 hours labor. If the flywheel is burned, scored and needs refinishing, add .2 and to replace the pilot bushing, add .2

    So total cost kind of depends on your geography and how good a deal you get on parts.

    VISITING HOST

    MODERATOR

  • The helpful folks at the oil change placed noticed my right brake light did not work. I replaced the bulb to no avail and then noticed that the right rear turn signal and tailight did not work either. The manual does not show a separate fuse for the rear lights. Any suggestions for either diagnosing or fixing the problem?
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