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Subaru Legacy/Outback Wagons Maintenance & Repair



  • texsubarutexsubaru Posts: 242
    One thing that make me wonder was that there was a small metal clip hanging onto one of the little side splash guard things that I do have. I can't be sure what the purpose of the clip might have been. It sure wasn't doing anything useful there, so I was theorizing that perhaps it had been part of what could've held a center piece on. *But* it wouldn't have been at all secure without being attached to something other than such a small clip. As mentioned in original post, I didn't see one under the couple of other 2005s I've checked, but have seen them on a couple of 2006s that I checked (didn't take time to study how those were attached, since I felt a little odd about kneeling down in parking lots staring at the underside of total strangers' cars; might get reported to Homeland Security or something!).
  • I purchased my so called dream car, but when winter hit I noticed more moisture in the car and ice built up. Mold grew in the back of our car. The dealer found a leaking hatch. No drain holes and miss placed gaskets. I curious if any one out there had and of these problems. Plus the undershields kept breaking.
  • Nick...

    I'm curious if you ever happened to get any resolution on the ticking problem you described and attributed to the keyless entry. I have a recurring ticking problem as well that sounds similar (unlike others who describe ticking the same as "pinging" and related it to oil or whatever).

    This ticking clicks 60 times, then stops for about ten seconds before resuming. The only way I seem to have been able to get it to stop (sometimes it will just stop on it's own, other times it will click and flash the parking lights for hours or until it's drained) is by fiddling with wires and what must be the keyless entry box you described. I've never found a button either. Thanks for any insights.

  • tkanictkanic Posts: 78
    . Plus the undershields kept breaking.

    My understanding is that the plastic shields under the front engine area do break way to often.

    Can't help you w/ the leak
  • I have a 2003 Legacy wagon. The passenger side rear seatbelt had not been retracting properly . . . one night when my son was driving the car, apparently the seatbelt was caught in the door and dragging on the ground, and then got caught in the rear wheel. The car suddenly veered to the right -- luckily he did not go in the ditch or hit anyone. Now that seatbelt is all mangled, and the rear wheel makes a funny noise. I will take the car to the dealer. Anyone else had this problem? Is this a car defect, or an act of God? Any perspectives appreciated. -- Ken
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    ...or the previous owner removed them to facilitate oil changes. Don't you have to remove it to get to the oil filter?

  • Has anyone else seen this?
    Start out from a stop, hard acceleration. At about 10mph, the tunnel at the back of the front center console "rumbles" as if the driveshaft is shaking (about 4 cycles/sec).

    This is an '01 Outback VDC, so it's H6/auto, so no clutch, unless you're referring to the center diff.

    Is that a CV joint in the driveline right behind the driveline support? Would that be going bad?

    Thanks for any input.

    BTW, the car has been doing very well for 108K mi. The front sunroof shattered while driving down the road (no other vehicles in sight, the rear spoiler got crushed by backing into a garage door that wasn't completely open, and the hood protector disintegrated (warranty replacement), all in '01-'02.

  • link5link5 Posts: 1
    Hi, I just purchased a set of KYB's GR-2 for my 2000 Outback Wagon and would like to know if there are any free info sites where I might get detailed installation instructions. Only for the rear as I'm assuming they will be easier than the fronts. Any help is appreciated. Thanks. Also, anything good to say on the KYB's? Only wanted to get it back to original specs, not looking for hi performance.
  • kenskens Posts: 5,869
    On my 05 LGT wagon, there's a small cover that you swing open to access the oil filter. It's so much easier than the cover that was on my 98 Forester. You just pop out three quarter-turn plastic plugs with a screwdriver and swing it open. The underside of the engine from the oil drain plug forward to the bumper has a black plastic cover.

  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 8,391
    The rubber gasket is bad on the driveshaft bearing that supports the front half of the driveshaft. I had this same problem on my '96 when I purchased it in 2000. The part (new) was somewhere around $500, though I purchased mine from a scrapyard for half that and have not had any problems since (another 115K miles). The work itself was easy to perform, though frustrating due to the location of the exhaust system and associated heat shields, though the '01 layout may be different.
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 8,391

    Please be sure to tell us the resolution to this story! I was hoping to receive a followup to the email you sent me (and I returned) last week, but alas, no news yet.

  • Took it to a local dealer this morning. They said that the U-Joints and carrier (center) bearing were trashed. Said they hadn't seen it in the 4 years that this service manager has been there. $900 P&L :cry: The whole drive shaft assembly has to be replaced. The components are not sold individually. The heat shields and exhaust are kind of a pain, but didn't look like anything that an impact wrench couldn't make quick work of. I think if the heat shield is out of the way, the exhaust can be left in place to replace the driveshaft. Found it online for $420-480 + shipping.
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 8,391
    I am not sure that there is any reason I cannot post this link here, so my apologies if it is inappropriate:

    This is for the Endwrench article Larry referenced in post #5690
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 8,391
    Right.... the carrier bearing (I'm horrible with techical terms, but hopefully I was able to get the part across). Yes, the bearing is connected to the front driveshaft and "requires" replacement all at once. The cost, including labor, is about what I would expect from a dealer considering how much time it took me and the cost of the parts (new) on my '96. In reality, that bearing can be removed from the shaft with a slight un-dinging of the bearing housing to allow it to slip over the shaft's teeth, then reverse the procedure with a new one. The problem is that Subaru does not offer the bearing without the shaft! So..... guess who gets the shaft? ;)

    If it has been doing it quite some time, then the U-joint might be trashed, but it is a moot point really since the U-joint is removed with the driveshaft.

    I did not remove the exhaust system to access mine - only the shields. It was just a pain having to work around it but, in retrospect, was probably one of the easiest repairs I have made on the car to date!
  • Cool. Thanks Wes! I guess I'll let them do it. Maybe the next person to find this problem will see the post and be able to do it themselves.
  • Looks like I'm the only one with massive Automatic transmission failures. Dealer is standing behind the product and is taking care of business. No Complaints. Guess I'll just keep motoring along and see what happens next. see Msg #5673 Pg 285. Will post when I have number 4 put in. Later.................
  • Actually 2 problems. Headlight burn out and cruise control.
    We have replaced 5, yes 5 headlights in 1 year! Subaru says we are driving with our lights on too much rather than "daytime driving lights" only. The lights are so strong they produce too much heat and it is burning out the bulbs. We tried driving with only "daylight" lights but another one just burnt out. My wife leaves before sunrise and returns after dark so this presents a problem of driving without the lights on!!! Has anyone else had this problem? ALSO: It is an automatic and when on cruise control downhill it is real jerky. Again Subaru has been no help, denies this is a problem and "never heard of this problem before". We had a 2002 and had no problem with lights or cruise control.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Sounds like some sort of electrical short. There must be a surge burning those bulbs.

    Call 800-SUBARU3. Offer to show receipts to prove you've changed the bulbs several times.

  • kenskens Posts: 5,869
    I've heard of other people complaining about bulbs burning out too soon. I'd definetly call Subaru as juice recommended and set up a case. I bet that it's a known problem and hopefully they can guide your dealer to a fix.

  • texsubarutexsubaru Posts: 242
    OK, I posted the inquiry at, and this was the reply I received:

    "I checked the spec book and there are different parts equipped on the different trim levels. Your vehicle is equipped with an Engine UnderCover Insulator:Side Type. I hope that this information helps ease any concerns you may have had regarding missing equipment."

    And, assuming that "an Engine UnderCover Insulator" does translate to 'a splash guard,' I gather that means that the 2005 Outback 2.5i didn't come with a center underside splash guard. Does leave me wondering why other trim levels apparently would need it, though...
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