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Subaru Legacy/Outback Wagons Maintenance & Repair



  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    I thought it was the radio playing hip-hop music and rating how "ill" the music was. ;)

  • goosegoggoosegog Posts: 206
    Loose heat shield I've had twice on my 00 OB. Hard to locate (sometime banging the exhaust with a wrench will make it vibrate) but cheap to fix.

    Can't help with the oil leak, never had one.

    I agree with Juice, I doubt the CEL has anything to do with oil. Usually emissions related which could be fuel, ignition, sensors, etc. You need to get the code read and be aware that some scanners used by non-Subaru places (and the ones you can buy yourself) will not necessarily read all the Subaru-specific codes. And I don't recommend replacing parts based on codes alone...this can get expensive without fixing the problem. Sometimes you need experienced help to interpret codes.
  • goosegoggoosegog Posts: 206
    Another update. Got one from a wreckers for half the price of new, or to look at it another way the same price as new in the US. Unfortunately the only "friend" I have in the US is a golf-playing moneybags cousin in an Ohio castle, who I'm sure won't get involved in my penny-pinching, do-it-yourself, oil-stained, car-fixing activities. The delay would be a PITA too, it's summer and I want my windows open!
  • goosegoggoosegog Posts: 206
    Sounds like the switch to me too. All four switches are on the same printed circuit board which also has electronics for the window lock, the auto-down function, and the door locks, so you'd have to replace the whole lot in one go.

    The switch panel will just pry out. If it's like my 00 you'll find two modules screwed onto the panel; one for the windows and door locks and another for the mirrors. Just replace the window module. Don't bother to pry the back off the module in the hope of fixing the switch, all you see is the PCB which can't be removed. Ask me how I know.
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 8,268
    :surprise: Wow... I thought I put a lot of miles on mine! My driver window will get "stuck" down if I use the auto-down feature and let it go all the way to the bottom of the track, that is why I asked.

    Hopefully it is the switch and not a circuit board. Oh, well, looking at goosegog's post, it really does not matter! :blush:
  • shouldn't be happening as I'm driving 60mph by itself...
  • krzysskrzyss Posts: 843
    rubbing it with knee, hand or something?

  • yes---the console lights flicker at the same time, and I "thought" the CD skipped, but I was concentrating on other times (like driving!)

    I'm scheduling the appt today, not confident that it will be fixed by the dealer.
  • bssgrlbssgrl Posts: 4
    I just had my transmission fluid & oil changed and but I noticed that the warning light for "Oil at Temperature" is flashing when I start my car. I read in the manual that I should contact my dealership because it may have something to do with the "control system?" I guess what I am trying to access is, is this just a dummy light flashing to get you to go in and get it serviced and charged out the ying yang for labor or because I just had the oil & trannie fluids serviced that I can ignore this.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    I would not ignore a blinking light, usually that's an indication to pull over and call a tow truck. A solid light is a warning, blinking is severe.

  • stevecarstevecar Posts: 148
    I had head gasket replaced a few months ago on forrester at 44k miles after sealant did not work. The question is do I keep car past extended warranty or trade in before warranty expires just in case.
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 8,268
    Only you can answer that question. It depends on your level of comfort - your peace of mind.
  • bssgrlbssgrl Posts: 4
    It justs blinks when I start the car then it stops, it lasts maybe a 1/4-1/2 minute total
  • jfljfl Posts: 1,335
    I'd check three things:

    1) make sure the oil in the engine is at the correct level (dipstick near front of engine)
    2) assuming you have an automatic transmission, the tranny fluid is reddish in color and is at the proper level (dipstick driver side)
    3) there is gear oil in the front diffy. (dipstick passenger side) again assuming auto tranny

    If all three are fine, I wouldn't worry about the light. You could also call and ask a dealer why it's happening.


  • bssgrlbssgrl Posts: 4
    OK, I did check the oil today, because I thought maybe that might have somethig to do with it, but it's fine, the tranny fluid was just changed 3 days ago, so I know that's ok, so I will look into

    ) there is gear oil in the front diffy. (dipstick passenger side) again assuming auto tranny>

    and yes it is an auto tranny.

    I figure at this point if everything is ok, that it's a dummy light, but if all fluids are ok I'll just give them a call as well just to double check it.

    Thanx for the help, I really appreciate it!!
  • bssgrlbssgrl Posts: 4
    :) well we double checked everything and it was ok, then my fiance thought that maybe if we unconnected the battery and reconnected it, that maybe it would reset itself, and guess did!!!
    Thanx for all of your help :)
  • nerdnerd Posts: 203
    I just installed an aftermarket trailer hitch on my 2006 Outback 2.5i. All went fine until I tried to install the aftermarket wiring harness (Reese No. 15370). The problem is that Reese's installation instruction sheet is incorrect. It says that the vehicle wiring plug is installed behind an access panel by one of the taillight assemblies. I have completely removed both assemblies - no plug. I have looked all over the back of the vehicle inside and outside- still no plug.

    I would appreciate hearing from anyone who knows where Subaru hid this little guy. It would be a plastic connector about 1/2-inch square with six female connections.
  • Have faith bro. I have a 2005 OBXT and installed about the same as you. The Subaru connector is well hidden inside the left rear access panel, where the 12V accessory power socket is located. You will really have to root around in there to find it -- its just kind of in there flopping around. The connector has its own 12V circuit for trailer lights; you might have to install the fuse for that circuit -- I can't remember if I had to or not. I used a JCWhitney Euro-to-USA trailer light converter which does power the trailer lights separately. I don't know about your Reese 15370. I would not recommend powering your trailer lights from the car light circuit; you might overload and with one trailer wiring fault you've lost your car lights.

    For some reason this question keeps coming up. Wonder why Subaru chose to hide this thing so well? Even my dealer didn't know where it was.
  • nerdnerd Posts: 203
    Mr. Crowell, thank you for the advice. I'll intensify my hunt for it tomorrow now that I have some guidance where to look. The Reese harness does have "battery" as one of the input wires, and the spec sheet says that each circuit is rated for 4 amps. The inside fuse box diagram shows one fuse as "trailer power", so I guess that is the fuse for the trailer lights.

    I am much weight have you towed? The owners manual is adamant that towing more than 1000 lbs requires trailer brakes. What is your experience?

    Thank you again for the information on oil changes. All went well. I was able to tighten the filter completely by hand. The manual showed that an access panel had to be removed to reach the oil filter, but Subaru must have eliminated it for 2006.

    Best regards.
  • Then you should be in good shape with the Reese harness. I'm sure that it will mate up correctly with the Subaru connector. I've towed several thousand pounds (utility trailer loaded, 18' boat) without trailer brakes. But all of this is about driving carefully and not doing dumb things. Remember that you still have only your 3000 lbs. of car weight for braking traction. Add a 3000 lb. trailer (without brakes) and it will take you at least twice as far to stop. Drive slowly, drive carefully, and don't get yourself into situations where sudden braking might be required (i.e. tailgating, running yellow lights, etc.) You're not going to wear out your brakes, just longer stopping distance. And maintain a good trailer tongue weight (as much as you can lift). Do not let that tongue weight get too low or you will go unstable and have one whee of a time. Also I've found that it helps to add something (flags?) to the trailer, visible to you the driver, to help remind yourself that you have a trailer back there. It is very easy to forget about it -- then trouble happens.
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