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Subaru Legacy/Outback Wagons Maintenance & Repair



  • didn't catch mine in the act ... Did finally fix the misfire cyl. #2 after more dancin' Tried a coil pack switch (put a 2004 imprezza pack on the 2000 legacy). Improved response even though not the exact part number (last number different -- probably a better -hotter? -- coil pack) MIL still on & again set cyl. #2 misfire code & the car didn't idle well. Replaced injector with a new one from Subaru -- fixed problem, & the light went out. Celebration time. Parts guy told me that the ethanol in our CT gas is increasingly damaging various fuel parts. He said he used to sell a few knock sensors a year - now regularly needs 3 or 4 a week. Guess that's the next thing I'll look to replace on our 2000 legacy. thanks again all for the misfire advice. -- ken
  • hi Jeff -- yes - it was an injector. I replied to the Chipmonk picture with more detail on the process I went through. This site functions a bit differently than others I've used -- on sign in it wouldn't get me back directly to responses to my original thread, so I responded to the other one. Maybe some website optimization could be helpful? Anyway, if you can't find my other message, I can repost if needed. best, -- ken
  • fibber2fibber2 Mid Hudson Valley, NYPosts: 3,732

    Excellent! So it was the injector. Thanks for the feedback.

  • npbdnpbd Posts: 4
    I have 2002 outback ( it's my understanding that legacy and outback are the same from engine side)
    2.5l Manual trans with over 135K miles and I would like to replace/swap the engine because of havy smoke and coolant and oil are mixing together.

    My question is do I need 2002 engine or 2003, 2001 engine will do the job? Does AT and MT have the same engine?

    I am looking for like to like swap hardware (mounting bracket, wire, etc..)

  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 8,391
    There are no engine differences between AT and MT. There *could* be compatibility issues between years, but if you retain sensors and wiring from your current engine and only swap in the replacement engine, there should not be any problems. The mechanicals are the same, but sometimes the ECU mapping, sensors, etc, change. I hear this is commonly a problem when performing JDM engine swaps into USDM applications.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Actually you want to get the same year, same style (AT or MT) engine to replace it. Each year they change some of the connectors and you definitely don't want to switch between AT and MT. I tried to do that on my dad's legacy and we had to swap out a ton of stuff including the intake manifold which is different between AT and MT.

  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 8,391
    Really? I am thinking along the lines of a long block (block w/ heads) rather than a complete nut-and-bolt replacement. I would be very surprised if the engine itself was different (between MT & AT), but then these new-fangled cars.... :confuse: Any excuse to toss in a little change seems to be a good one! ;)
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    If you go longblock probably not a whole lot difference, however you can get for not much more money a used complete engine which would be a drop-in effort rather than a matter of swapping over sensors etc.

  • I have an 01 Outback LTD that is having it's headgaskets replaced to fix oil leaks on both sides. One side was done ~40K ago as part of a leak of coolant, now this requires both sides to be fixed.
    As part of the repair I have decided to change the timing belt because the engine will be apart.
    The question is should the water pump be replaced at the same time. I have owned Hondas in the past and the mechanics always suggested that it be changed at the same time as the timing belt since it is also off at the same time. Not being a student on the Subaru engine arrangement setup is it a good idea?
    The timing belt will be an add on of ~$100, approximately how much will a water pump be to change it as well? What I wonder, might be the cost if it needs replacement later?
    What is the 'normal' life of a water pump?
    Thanks in advance!
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 8,391
    What is the mileage on the car at this time? In general, I would say yes - replace the pump. I am trying to remember the price of the water pump, but I think the one for my '96 was about $160 for the part (Napa). There should be no additional labor cost if done as part of the head gasket work. My water pump failed at ~173K miles. I had been in there two prior times and was just too naive to replace it then. :blush:
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Yes, I would do it. The labor is already paid for.
  • ratbert1ratbert1 Posts: 72
    I've done some searching (here and other places) and think I know what's going on, but want to post just to be sure.

    I have a 2002 OBW with 85k miles. Been driving manual xmissions all my life. The past 2 days, my clutch has slipped 3 times. We're having some crazy weather here in the northeast. I'm sure I haven't burned it out. Lots of highway miles plus I know how to be good to the clutch.

    Why is my clutch slipping?

    My conclusion is that it has to do with the hydraulics. Either they need to be bled or have collected some moisture. While it was at the airport waiting for me to get home from being stranded, the wind blew snow and packed it in underneath the car. Maybe some now got into the system?

    So my next question is how do I bleed the clutch and what's the best fluid to use?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,404
    Don't think it's hydraulics. At 85K it could just be worn out, like brakes. Clutches are expendable items over time.

    With bad hydraulics, the clutch would fail to couldn't get it in gear. The hydraulics control clutch release, not engagement, which is done by spring pressure.

    I think you have to face up to a clutch replacement---but sure, bleed and adjust, you have nothing to lose but an hour's time.


  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    I had a leaky clutch slave cylinder on a Miata and the symptoms were a bit strange, but basically I felt a spongy pedal that went soft at times. I also noticed the brake fluid in the clutch master cylinder reservoir dropped significantly.

    At first I topped it off, but when the fluid level dropped again I did some research and found out the slave cylinder was the most likely culprit.

    Indeed, I got a rebuild kit for under $11 and fixed it myself. The reservoir is in the engine bay, and the slave cylinder is accessible from underneath, in front of the trans.

    That's a Mazda, not sure how different Subarus are because I never looked. :confuse:
  • ratbert1ratbert1 Posts: 72
    In the meantime I've also found a Subaru technical service bulletin, applicable to my car, that addresses the clutch pedal "not returning completely after being engaged" that "may affect certain manual transmission vehicles with a hydraulic clutch system under certain weather conditions".

    the bulletin describes how to change the slave cylinder, hose, and gaskets as a remedy.

    shiftright - I appreciate what you're saying, but I won't go down the $1000 repair path (or whatever it costs) until I can rule out the cheaper, simpler fixes first.

    ateixeira - I walked it down over lunch. The slave cylinder is readily accessible from the engine compartment. All I really need to do is remove the air filter housing and it's right there.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587

    Now I'm curious, so next time I change my air filter I'll have a look, possibly even bleed the system.

    FWIW my Miata was 8 years old at the time and the fluid looked like melted milk chocolate. Yuck. It's supposed to be clear brake fluid! :surprise:
  • ratbert1ratbert1 Posts: 72
    What's the best fluid to use? I see no reason to skimp on such a little bit of brake fluid.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,404
    Well I was just preparing you for the worst but of course I wish you the best!


  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    I used plain old DOT-3 brake fluid for my Miata, but see if that's what Subaru specs call for (very likely they do).
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Best fluid for the money is ATE Superblue. About $15 for a container.

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