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Subaru Legacy/Outback Wagons Maintenance & Repair



  • I took the advice offered and had both the Water Pump ($140) and Timing Belt ($75) replaced. It took the mechanic ~ 6hrs to do both heads. While they were there according to list of parts a thermostat was also installed.
    I hope the job lasts until trade-in time ~20-40K miles.
    The sheet that I saw mentioned some thing about Piston Slap. Could someone refresh my mind on this. Is it something to worry about? I think I remember many 2.5's have it.
  • zberkzberk Posts: 5

    Does anyone have a clue where to find the exterior door moulding (lower panel) for a 2000 Outback in Gold (or is it Champagne)?

    Also looking for instructions on replacing said part.

    I've looked for hours to no avail...

  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Is it enough to bleed an entire brake system? Or do you need more than one?
  • In the last day or so I looked in my engine compartment to see the newly installed Water Pump. Should it be visible or is it "out of site". I thought it would be "bright and shiny" and easily be visible. Was I wrong on both accounts?
    Thanks in advance.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Water pump is internal behind your timing belt covers. You won't see a thing.

  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 8,391
    Not from the top or front, anyway. If you crawl underneath the car, you can see the bottom of it just above the thermostat housing where the lower radiator hose attaches to the engine.
  • Trying to change the front driver's side turn signal bulb on a 1995 Subaru Legacy wagon. I don't have the owner's manual and can't figure out how to access the light. Any ideas? The dome light is also burnt out -- ideas here?
  • what is the verdict on a head gasket repair? some say the new gaskets will last another 100,000 mi, (actually, another 96,000 mi), others say they will blow again, one guy even said it was the cylinder sleeve and to replace the head gasket is treating the symptom, not a cure. he said get a new engine.
    what say you??
  • I need to replace the catalytic converter on my '02 Legacy Outback, and finances dictate that I use an aftermarket part. While I can find CCs designated for pre-2000 Outbacks, the only parts I can find for my vehicle are catalogued under Subaru Legacy. Is there any reason why a Legacy CC would not work? Is any one aftermarket brand better than the others? (I have found parts made by Catco and Eastern Catalytic.) Thanks for your input.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    I would look for an aftermarket CC even a performance one and they usually go for about $99, then spend another $100 or so to have it installed. A subaru specific may run $500+

  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 8,391
    Hard to say. Sometimes the problem recurs, sometimes it does not. If your first set of gaskets lasted 96K and 11 years, chances are that replacement gaskets will take you through the remaining life of your intended ownership - if the head surfaces are checked for flatness (and machined if necessary) prior to installation. Did you have any overheating issues associated with the failure of the current gaskets?

    In terms of cost, it all depends on whether this ~$2000 repair is a worthwhile investment for you. That's about 5 months worth of car payments if you finance a new one, so if the repair gives you 6 months or more of reliable driving, then you are ahead of the game. *shrugs* If it was my old '96, at the mileage I had on it today (which would be about 226,000), I would fix it (myself again).... but I would grumble about it the whole time. :D
  • thanks for responding. it's been having big overheatig issues. i am pretty sure the radiator is cracked and will need replacing. i am worried about other internal damaged that might creap up and bite me in the [non-permissible content removed] later.
  • janice96janice96 Posts: 19
    I'm getting hesitation driving along when accelerating. It was so bad today I didn't think I was going to make it home.Fuel filter, pluggs,plug wires,air filter were replaced at 85,000 Now has 108,000. I added some dry gas when I got home. Haven't driven it yet, so don't know if this has helped. Maybe fuel pump???? Doesn't seem to do this starting out and it starts right up. Any thoughts on what my problem is?
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Could be the intake manifold temp sensor. If it happens when the car is warmed up but not when it's cold. Could also be a fuel injector. Are you getting any Check Engine Lights?

  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 8,391
    The most typical residual issues of overheating are warped heads and a cracked block, either of which are very expensive repairs as they require replacement of major components.

    If you are getting coolant in your oil, I would at least scrap the engine. If not, and it can be verified that the block and heads are okay, I would still go ahead with it. But again, I would do the work myself, so the financial burden is much less.

    If the repair comes with peace of mind, then it might be worth it. If not, then perhaps it is time to move on. :(
  • janice96janice96 Posts: 19
    Thats the strange thing about it. No Check Engine Lights at all. I have put 2 bottles of Iso in and drove it to work about 10 miles it didn't act up.I will be traveling more of a distance Thursday. So I'm crossing my fingers hoping the dry gas works.If it doesn't I guess the next thing to try will be replacing Fuel filter and running some good injector cleaner through it. Think that will work??
  • goosegoggoosegog Posts: 206
    My 2000 OB clutch wore out (slipping) at 60,000 km. I've always driven manuals and haven't worn one out since about 1969. I tow a tent trailer with this car, but I was still dismayed. Told by unsympathetic dealership that they simply don't last long nowadays due to no asbestos.

    After clutch replacement we had the pedal stick down once. My wife was driving and thought it had broken, but it turned out that it could be pulled up by hand, and after a few "sticky" occasions it freed itself completely. Something to do with operating in a different region of the slave cylinder?
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    I would bleed the fluid out of the system completely.

    That doesn't sound right to me at all.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Chances are your clutch wasn't bad. It's a known thing that the clutch master or slave goes bad and the pedal sticks, this also makes it appear that the car is slipping so they hit you with a clutch replacement.

  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    The clutch slave on my Miata went bad and I fixed it with a $10.74 repair kit and a bottle of brake fluid. :shades:

    Still good 2 years later.
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