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Subaru Legacy/Outback Wagons Maintenance & Repair



  • The rear diff. plugs were very tight in my 02 Outback because the plugs had thread sealant (gray color) on them. I also needed to use 18" extension pipe on the 1/2' drive to loosen them. Since I noticed sealant on the thread, I put sealant on the back side of the thread just to be on the safe side. I am using Redline 75W90 GL-5 gear oil for front and rear diff.

  • ncc4ncc4 Posts: 16
    I have a 2007 Outback ( non-turbo ) and it's time to change the air filter. I've done this numerous times on different vehicles over the years, but the instrutions for the Outback call for the battery to be disconnected.

    Has anyone changed the air filter that can explain why this is required, and what happens if you don't disconnect the battery.

  • Thanks to all of you for your suggestions and tips. It's out and sitting on the driveway. Replacement is due here by Tuesday or Wednesday, and hopefully it will go in next weekend. I plan to degrease the engine compartment while I have access.

    It feels like the flywheel / trans shaft is loose in the front of the tranny. I can pull it out a bit, but I haven't tried to completely remove it. Is that normal?

    Anything else I should check, inspect, or replace while I have total access?

    Thanks again,

  • I hope it's okay to post pictures on the board. Here are some shots of the internal damage.


    It seems a valve broke, then broke other valves, then broke the piston, then broke the cylinder wall. But what broke the valve? Hmmmmmm...

  • zman3zman3 Posts: 857
    Wow. Cool photos. Thanks for posting them.
  • I can not find the gap information for NKG FR5AP-11 spark plugs for my 2005 Outback. Help!
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Agreed, thanks for sharing the informative pics.
  • jfljfl Posts: 1,335
    I can not find the gap information for NKG FR5AP-11 spark plugs

    NGK pre-gaps their plugs. The last digit(s) after the dash is the gap in tenths of a mm.

    So -11 equals 1.1 mm or 0.044".

  • I just had to replace the sunroof assembly in my '03 LL Bean Outback. The sunroof leaked and the entire headliner was ruined, and the entire back area of the car was soaked. It came home two weeks ago. In the next big rainstorm, it leaked again. Turns out the dealership hadn't reconnected one of the drain tubes. I was able to contain the damage this time by putting a tarp over the car until it could go to the shop; however, the amount of water that got in through the brand-new sunroof was not insignificant.

    What I don't understand is why such a substantial amount of water is able to get in through a brand-new sunroof; presumably the seals are pristine and couldn't be in better condition.

    The dealership is telling me that the sunroof is designed to let some amount of water through, and that the difference between the steel and the glass means the seal is never perfect. To me, this sounds like a big load of crap.

    I can understand small amounts of water getting through, since a sunroof means the roof has been compromised, by definition. But *that* much water is flowing through my car every time it rains? That seems like a pretty foolish way to design a car.

    Wondering if anyone knows anything about sunroofs, and if I'm just ignorant of sunroof science and the dealership is correct on this. I don't want to be unfair or unreasonable with them, but I also don't want this to happen for a third time.

    Many thanks.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    The dealership is right, you have a significant amount of water flowing through your car through those drains. Essentially the water comes in the seal and into the tray around the edge then runs down through the drains and out the bottom of the car. If the drains are plugged or disconnected you'll get leaks.

    Motorsports and Modifications Host
  • Thank you. That is great to know, and very reassuring.
  • Well my replacement engine arrived yesterday. When initially contacted, the salvage yard said it was a 48,000 mile engine. My first look tells me, NO WAY!" They steam cleaned it pretty well, but missed some pretty large grease deposits, the heater hose connections have a pretty thick residue of decomposing rubber around the tips, and the timing cover bolts are covered with surface rust. My old engine had 125K on it, and those bolts still have the olive-green look of a new bolt.

    Also, they ground off the left and right case serial numbers, as well as the number stamped into the top center of the block. Is this typical of buying a used engine? Or is the salvage yard trying to hide something or prevent me from getting the background info about this engine?

    Have I been had? :lemon: ?

  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Grinding usually indicates an engine from a stolen car.....

    I've seen rusted bolts on the front of the timing covers on newer engines so I wouldn't necessarily say it's a bad thing.

    Overall I'd say it looks shady. Did you buy via CC? You may want to look into what protection they can provide. I had to do this with a transmission that never shipped to me in a timely fashion.

  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Sounds shady.

    I would call them, ask for a photo of the car it came from with the odometer showing.
  • The other day, I went to turn on the A/C and noticed the air not getting cool. When I came to a stop, I cycled the system on and off, but didn't notice the RPMs changing or hear the compressor kicking in.
    Decided to trouble shoot to no avail: Visually checked compressor on/off , did not engage. Checked connector, OK but no voltage. Fuse was good. Checked relay in main box (under hood) and it had 12vdc to it, but did not seem to have any 12vdc to any other contacts when dash control is turned on. I would check the relay but don't know what the polarity is on the energizing circuit.
    Anybody have any ideas/same problem and fix? Paisan? juice?
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Wow, I know nothing at all about HVAC.

    The only thought I had was some blown fuses still appear OK, but aren't. So I would change it. A fuse is just a few pennies.
  • If your refrigerant level drops to too low a level, there's a pressure switch that will not allow your compressor to engage.

    So I'd check the refrigerant to see if you have a leak.
  • "But wait," he said, "there's more!"

    The left side exhaust and right side intake timing pulleys are both cracked, it has a brand new timing belt, but it appears out of time (marks on pulleys not lining up when #1 at TDC of compression stroke).

    And the compression check (by hand, since it's still on the pallet) shows 40 - 50 PSI max on all 4 cylinders. Haynes manual says it should have 137 - 176 PSI.

    :lemon: :lemon: :lemon: ???
  • I just found my sunroof leak today. Had to remove 3 pieces of trim and a couple of brackets to lower the headliner enough to get a look see. The drain tube on the passenger side was loose. Water was dripping in thru the extra shoulder belt in the headliner.

    Where are the drains in the sunroof, and where do the hoses exit the vehicle?

    This is on an 01 Legacy GT wagon with dual sunroofs.

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