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Subaru Legacy/Outback Wagons Maintenance & Repair

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Comments

  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 8,269
    One would need to bolt an A-bar onto the car's frame rails. Theoretically one would need brakes, but it really depends on the weight (and brakes) of the tow vehicle and the capability of the driver. For a short trip towing the thing home, I would not bother with either. I would just remove the rear drive shaft and tow it home on a two-wheel dolly or use a flatbed trailer, whichever was available. My first choice would be the trailer. But, with one side of the car lifted up, it should only take about 30 minutes to pull the shaft. It only requires removal of the heat shields to gain easy access to the shaft. The annoying part is working around the exhaust pipe.

    Come to think of it, I have not seen a tow dolly with brakes... and the dolly would make the total towed weight greater than just leaving the car on the ground. Imagine that. :D
  • gatineaugatineau Posts: 3
    The dealer couldn't find any oil leaks. Any specific place the mechanic should look? I will also take it back to the dealer and have them look at the belts. Thanks for the advice.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Both sides head gaskets, valve cover gaskets, and front and rear main seals.
  • bufwxguybufwxguy Posts: 10
    Update on my head gasket/coolant leak. 3 weeks and about 700 miles (odo now at about 81,900) after having the coolant conditioner added at the dealership (which helped - temporarily), a bigger leak opened up in the head gasket yesterday rather dramatically and suddenly fortunately at a donut shop drive-thru so I could shut down fairly quickly. Engine did not overheat according to temp gauge, but she was steamin' from coolant leaking onto exhaust and it drained the coolant jug quickly. Had car flat bedded to Subaru dealership (free AAA tow), now to see how helpful the extended warranty is.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Have this number handy just in case the dealership isn't cooperative: 1-800-SUBARU3.

    Good luck.
  • bufwxguybufwxguy Posts: 10
    Thanks. So far dealer has provided free loaner '08 Outback wagon while mine is in the shop. Great of them for doing that since they haven't looked at it yet due to shop backlog.
  • I have a 95 Subaru Legacy. The Transmission recently went up and I'm shopping for a new one. A friend of mine found on in a 98 Subaru Legacy Outback and we are trying to figure out if the 98 Transmission is compatible with my 95!? Can anyone help?
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Is this a MT or AT trans?
    Also which engine in the 95 Legacy? 2.5 or 2.2?

    -mike
  • Mike,

    Thanks for the reply!! It is an automatic trans. I'm pretty sure its a 2.2 but, I will have to verify that!
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 8,269
    Mike, I thought 1996 was the first year for the 2.5L; is that not correct?
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    sounds right to me...
  • calimaricalimari Posts: 2
    I just purchased a 96 Subaru Legacy Outback with manual transmission. The car seems to have issues starting after driving short distances. If I drive for awhile, the car will start no problem. If I only drive it a few miles, then turn it off...it won't start until it has sat approximately 15-20 minutes. The previous owner told me he would just push start it, but it isn't always convenient to park on a hill. Any information someone could supply, would be greatly appreciated!
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Hmm Wes, I'm not positive but IIRC in 1995 there was a 2.5LGT which required premium fuel.

    -mike
  • zyuzyu Posts: 4
    My 97 Subaru Legacy Outback with manual transmission seems to have a similar problem. Whenever the weather is a little bit cold, it takes a few minutes to start and the engine jumps slightly. And the power is kind of weak when starting uphill. But once it struggled to start in the morning, it starts right away without any problem during the daytime. It has been sent to check for a few times, but they had no clue. According to the manual, there is no special requirement for fuel type, isn't it? I will probably try the unleaded from now on. I have been using the regular since I got it. And the condition of this car is getting worse. Is this really the reason for the problem? I would appreciate very much if anyone could give any help! :cry:
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    mike's correct, for the first model year the 2.5l made 155hp and required premium fuel. Make sure you use that.

    By 97 is was tuned to make 165hp on 87 octane, so that's not the issue with yours.

    I would look at the spark plugs, spark plug wires, and ignition coil to determine the health of the spark. For fuel, make sure the fuel filter has been replaced recently and maybe have a mechanic test the fuel pump/pressure.
  • zyuzyu Posts: 4
    I have sent it to the mechanician. At the first time, he changed the crank sensor. At the second time he injected fuel cleaner (??Not sure if this is the right term). But the car still has the same problem. I will probably call him and ask whether he checked all of those you listed. Thanks a lot.
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 8,269
    Please clarify a bit on this. When you say the car will not start for a while, what does it do? When you turn the key to start, does it crank? Does it just sit there? Does it 'click?'
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    FWIW, we had a hesitation issue with our 626 V6, and a throttle body service cleaned up the fuel system and cleared it right up. That's probably what he did to yours. Too bad.
  • zyuzyu Posts: 4
    I am sorry for the confusion. If the car starts normally, once I turn the key, it should start to have some "tu-tu-tu" noise for a few seconds and then starts to run smoothly, right? But for my car, in the morning or at night, when I turn the key, it make the "tu-tu-tu--------------------------tu" nosise maybe like a few minutes. And I had to turn the key a few times to make it start to run. Is this clear? Thanks for all the suggestions above.
  • MrShift@EdmundsMrShift@Edmunds Posts: 43,660
    Nope, not clear, sorry.

    What I think everyone wants to know is....does the starter motor SPIN the engine even though the engine doesn't actually start running?

    So we are using the term "crank" to describe the starter spinning the engine and the term "start" to mean that the engine is actually running after you've released the key.

    The other option would be that you turn the key to start and nothing happens except dashboard lights and a little click or something.

    Visiting Host
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