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Subaru Legacy/Outback Wagons Maintenance & Repair



  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Indeed, could be as as simple as a bad gas cap (not sealing well, so vacuum pressure is lost in the canister). Many parts stores will let you borrow a scanner since they know you'll buy parts there to address whatever issue comes up.

    Shifty: agree on the HG issue.

    Funny thing is we had 5 supposedly affected Subaru in my family (that's 10 head gaskets for those who are counting, given the H-4 layout) and none of us ever had that problem. Knock on wood.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    I'm at just about 100K miles on her and a CV boot ripped.

    All by itself? ;)

    Think about it - what caused it to rip? You probably hit a rock or drove over a curb to cause that tear to happen. CV boots don't rip themselves.

    That's like saying, "The other day I drove straight in to a tree, BOY these bumpers are so unreliable! Now I need a new one!"

    No warranty in the world would cover that, either.

    FWIW I had bad luck, too - some rodents (squirrels? chipmunks?) got in my engine bay and chewed up the wiring harness in my brand new Sienna, less than a year old. $700 out of my pocket, not covered under warranty by Toyota.

    Better luck with your Zook.
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 8,267
    Regarding CV boots, they either rip or they split. Splitting is due to aging of the rubber (tends to be smooth and on a normal crease/wear point) and tearing is mechanical. If the boot splits at an early age, that could be a warranty issue, but it is highly weather dependent (extreme temp highs and lows, humidity, etc).
  • MrShift@EdmundsMrShift@Edmunds Posts: 43,626
    Mileage has a lot to do with it. If those cars were under 100K, it's too early for the problem to show up I think.

    Anyway, it can't be more than a 10% failure rate, so your family might not get "decimated".
  • benttoolbenttool Posts: 4
    something new it runs bad most of the time but still really bad when it rains it wasn't seting any codes before but now get a rich on bank one side of motor. fuel regulator checked out to be good has good compeshion on all cyl's kills at stop signs but will start right back up. runs good at 85 and up but get below 70 and almost stops running then at around 45mph it will kick in and if you keep your foot in the same position will climb back up to 80 or more but let up just a litle and back down to 45 or less. had new timing belt at 125,000 miles and some gaskits now has 194,834 no big problims till now and no one can tell me what it is dealer said it could be any thing and I should bring it in to them so they can start replacing stuff till they find it . NO THANKS thast time I did that It cost me $3800.00
    and is was a bad rear wheel bearing so they replaced them all. they said they would have needed it soon any way. haven't been back there and dout plan on it if at all posible Any oone ever had this problem need it back on road soon thanks
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 8,267
    Whoa. You lost me after "fuel regulator checked out to be good has good compeshion on all cyl's kills at stop signs but will start right back up." I honestly have no idea what you were trying to convey after that.

    My two guesses for you: 1. Mass Airflow Sensor needs to be cleaned or replaced. 2. Knock sensor may be acting up.
  • blackbeanblackbean Posts: 100
    Hi all,
    My front moonroof won't pop open any more (stuck shut), but the back one works fine. Any one have this problem before or have suggestions for a DIY fix? Just want to fix her up before getting the new 2010 Outback.
  • gjksngjksn Posts: 35
    I had a similar problem with my 03 Legacy LSE wagon. It was under the original warranty at the time, but the Subaru dealer told me it would have been close to a $2000 repair. The ceiling had to be removed, and it took quite a few hours. My theory is that I tried to open the sunroof at a time when temperatures had caused it to be frozen shut. It may be winter, but I still like ventilating through the roof. Previous sunroofs that I've had, even after-market ones, never had this problem. They just cracked the frozen seal and opened up. The Subaru mechanism is apparently a plastic strip with holes in it, and these holes line up with some kind of a gear mechanism with teeth. The gear turns and pulls this plastic strip, and that's what causes the thing to open. I was told that this is also how power windows work. Ever since, I've always immediately opened the sunroof after a winter car wash so that it won't happen again. Seems like a chintzy mechanism. Sorry that I'm not able to explain this more articulately as a knowledgeable mechanic might.
  • chipinawchipinaw Posts: 2
    I am looking at an older Legacy ,( automatic) When I put it in gear the shifting seems to be a little slow. I was told that this is normal for the subaru.Other cars I have driven, you put it into gear and feel...shift...this car I put it into gearand have to step on the gas to feel the shift .Is this normal for an older subaru ( 1999 Legacy)

    thank you,

  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 8,267
    No, those '99s seem to have an increased frequency of transmission failures, and the symptoms start with delayed shifting. It has to do with internal seals in the transmission and will only get worse.... :cry:
  • jhogansonjhoganson Posts: 1
    I'm having a problem with the window on the driver's side of my 2001 Outback Wagon. Does anybody know how to remove the inside door panel to access the window?
  • blackbeanblackbean Posts: 100
    Thanks for the insight...that is most likely what happened, asI have been know to open the roof in the winter :D

    Plastic gears...grrrr... Anyone replaced this themself before? I can pop open the roof part way, so can probably disconnect roof, but don't want to break anything...

  • txag08txag08 Posts: 1
    What eventually happened and did that fix the problem?

    I'm having a similar issue. I did not drain the battery, but did leave the overhead lights on overnight. Yesterday (four days later), while I was driving to work, the charge and break warning lights came on. I checked the parking brake, but it wasn't on. I decided to take the car to Autozone to check the battery, but on the way the lights went off, so I just turned around and went back to work. The lights stayed off for several trips and then came back on while I was driving again. They've stayed on, and when I was driving home, sometimes the ABS warning light would come on and then go off and then come on again. Also, the needles on the speedometer and RPM meter would sometimes go haywire waving up and down and the digital odometer would blink. This happened most notably when I turned the blinker on, so I just stopped using it until I got home.

    I read in the manual that driving with an insufficient battery voltage can cause the ABS light to come on and that it will go out with the battery is fully charged. So maybe the battery just has a low charge? It's about a year and a half old, but like I said I did leave the overhead lights on. The car still started, though, and the problem didn't happen until four days later. It could be a result of the short shopping trips I made on Wednesday and today, not giving the battery enough time to charge up.

    I'm afraid to drive the car now. And I don't want to take the battery out unless I absolutely have to. It's hard to get the wires on the terminals, and they have a corrosion problem, so I've spent a lot of time working on it and I don't want to take that all apart. Further, I don't have the means to do it right now. Car troubles make me sick on the inside, so if anyone has thoughts or insights, I would really appreciate them.

    It's a 2000 Outback Wagon, too.
  • robbiegrobbieg Posts: 323
    I have a 2005 Legacy GT sedan. One of the brake lights is out. Can I change this myself relatively quickly?
  • robbiegrobbieg Posts: 323
    Solved this one myself. The opening designed by Subaru was too small but eventually I just pulled back the felt around the trunk and it isn't hard at all.
  • ponytrekkerponytrekker Posts: 284
    You can but be careful. On my wagon the door inside the trunk lid you remove to get at the light bulb is made out of cardboard. I ripped it while changing a brake light and now have to rely on duct tape.
  • soe7soe7 Posts: 3
    I have a 2002 Outback Wagon which now has about 102,000 miles on it (I've put about 40,000 on it in the last 2.5 years). I still have $4500 left on the loan and have paid $4000 since November in repairs. I've had the head gasket done, replaced the timing belt and others but I think there's more to come. The AC has issues and it's not just low on coolant and I think the transmission may be going as the pick-up seems to be getting worse. My last Subaru was a 1993 and it made it to about 180,000 miles when the transmission finally went. In addition to the upcoming AC repairs and possible transmission issues, the rear wiper stopped working about a year ago and there's a leak one of the window seals so driving on the highway is very noisy. I'm just tired of the repair costs. Has anyone had a similar experience? Do you think it's better to stick with the evil I know than buy a 'new' car (by which I mean another used Subaru)? I know all the arguments about an older car being cheaper, despite repair costs and I would be trading one more year of payments until I own it free and clear for another 4-5 years.
  • sangerboysangerboy Posts: 5
    I posted this in Subaru Crew also but thought that this forum might be more specific. My '95 Legacy Outback quit running today. Will turn over but not start. I'm about to start testing the various possible culprits but I'm very suspicious that it could be the ECU. When putting the code scanner on the OBD II terminal it wouldn't even trigger the scanner. What is the power source of the ECU? Is there a fuse or relay that could be cutting power to it? I don't mind replacing it but I want to make sure that that is what needs to be done as I know they are very expensive. I am the original owner of the car and it has a lot of miles(260K) but still runs great so I'd like to keep it going. Thanks for any help, Greg
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    It may be time to cut your losses. It should be worth more than you owe, so at least you're not upside down.

    You got 100k miles out of it and it should sell for $6-7 grand or so. I'd sell it.
  • please..who can tell me where is locate the fwd switch on a 2002 impreza i got the fwd light turned on on the panel...
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