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Subaru Legacy/Outback Wagons Maintenance & Repair



  • What speed are you going when the steering is difficult and not returning to center? Expect that when at a stop position but not when making a 90degree turn at least 10mph. Get 2nd opinion at shop with computerized wheel alignment equipment.
  • winter2winter2 Posts: 1,796
    A few questions. 1. What kind of driving do you do normally? 2. What kind of oil are you using? 3. How frequently do you change your oil?

    The above questions are not answered in your post so it is hard to say why your Subaru is burning so much oil. I read the article and the author mentions that the type of driving you do has a big impact on oil consumption. If you use a conventional motor oil, that to can have an impact on consumption as most conventional motor oils do not hold up well in newer engines.
  • luvawdluvawd Posts: 2
    At any speed above 20 mph up to interstate 75 mph. At real low speeds I would not expect the steering to self center. In all normal driving turing the wheel up to 15 degrees, it will not self center, the wheel has to be returned to center. At 15,000 mile service the alignment was checked. The tow on both front wheels was out (towed in). Following the alignment the problem still persists in addition to what I feel is excessive effort to turn the steering wheel. The dealer says this is normal for this vehicle.
  • buyabuya Posts: 74
    edited January 2013
    "never a good idea to do to a completely dead battery, and then your alternator works very hard to put a kind of 'surface charge' on the battery. So it's possible all this stressed out the battery. completely, utterly, dead batteries must be slow-charged or you can damage them. " ;) That is very true. And check the number of battery cells in your new battery even if they look the same and from the same mfg.
  • ominousominous Posts: 2
    edited January 2013
    OK so I (and I mean I) replaced the clutch in my ancient legacy a few months ago and now I am hearing a loud almost knocking noise from somewhere under the chassis. It only happens when the clutch is engaged and I am accelerating again only while accelerating , tried disengaging the clutch and revving the engine and could not duplicate the noise even while moving, Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated as this is the only vehicle I have right now I need to get this solved before whatever it is becomes a major issue if it is not already. :confuse: :mad: :(
  • Sounds like engine or transmission mounts OR a bad CV axle joint. If it's a bad CV joint, try to find a good used one, because rebuilt Subaru axle joints don't seem to work out very well.
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 8,269
    I agree that the noise doesn't sound like it is coming from the clutch parts. Did you drop the tranny to do the replacement? Are all the nuts/bolts properly secured?

    If it only does it under acceleration, then it is likely torque related. My first guess would be that the center driveshaft bushing is bad (that's the bushing on the driveshaft appx. 16" behind the rear of the transaxle), and is throwing out of balance under high-torque situations. If it's doing it under all acceleration, then it's really bad.

    But, if you had no problems with it before the swap, then most likely it is something related to repair. Check that peripheral stuff that was disconnected and/or moved out of the way while you were doing the job.
  • ominousominous Posts: 2
    edited January 2013
    So after driving around for errands today the noise became much worse....then....damn dog ran out in front of me and had to whip the wheels to the right and heard loud crunch noise from underneath so I pulled over to look under ( not easy seeing as the car has low ride highth and its on 6 inches of snow lol) but saw nothing had to get it off the road so I started to drive away and the clicking noise started to deminish, now only clicking when turning right. So I think that you guys are right in that its a driveaxle probably passenger side front but as far as dropping the tranny when I replaced the clutch, nope I pulled the engine out It seemed much easier to do and I wouldn't have to get under it for much that way(bad back and all) I will keep you updated to what I find. :)
  • MrShift@EdmundsMrShift@Edmunds Posts: 43,664
    edited January 2013
    If you have to replace the CV joint/axle, I would encourage you to search for a good used one, which you can inspect by cutting off the boots, cleaning the joint up and if all is well, installing new boots (which you should do anyway on a used part).

    The failure rate for remanufactured Subaru CV joints is about 50%. Lots of Subaru guys already know this so finding a good used axle might take you a while.
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 8,269
    I didn't know that, Shifty, thanks for the tip.

    Ominous, it definitely sounds like a CV joint at this point. if it only makes the noise while turning right, then it is most likely the joint on the passenger side. At least, that's what I found when my joints went out. Crunching/scraping to the right was the passenger side, and the same to the left as the driver side. :)
  • know, that may be your experience, and a valid observation, but the general rule of thumb is that the bad CV joint is on the side opposite the way you're turning---because that's the CV joint that is "loaded"---that is, under load.
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 8,269
    I could be remembering it wrong. That was 8-10 years ago!
  • hammerheadhammerhead Posts: 885
    RE head gaskets... what years were affected (besides '99) - and just the 2.5 engine?
    We're searching for a car for our 2 fledgling drivers coming up (July & December). Found a '95 Legacy L sedan, only 108K miles, 2.2L. Looks like a gem, taking a closer look later today.
  • I am moving to california with this car. Do I have to convert anything over to CA standards. I get mixed messages. Please help. If I do, what are they. Thank you kindly
  • thanks. This is a 1996. Did California have standards back then? No conversions were done.
  • MrShift@EdmundsMrShift@Edmunds Posts: 43,664
    Yes the 2.2L should be okay for head gaskets.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    edited April 2013
    I owned a 98 Subie and don't recall them selling PZEV models at the time. Our 09 is a PZEV spec even though our state doesn't require it.

    I'm thinking a 96 would be ok, no?
  • Thank you . Like I said. Hard to find info. If you look at the link it is about new vehicles.
  • MrShift@EdmundsMrShift@Edmunds Posts: 43,664
    Oh sorry--what I meant by sending you that was to infer that if your car has MORE than the 7500 miles indicated, then you are okay regardless of the spec of your car--but you'll still need a smog test and pass the standards to which your car was built.

    Have a read:
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