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Electronic Gremlins - Electrical Problems That Are Driving You Crazy

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  • :mad: I have a 90 gmc safari van, i need help. on the instrument panel the only things working is my volt meter and temp gauge, battery gauge.the rest nothing. my light buzzer stays on, on the passenger side head light and tail light are dim. can someone help me asap!!!! :
  • Hi Rebellady! You are welcome! Just got back from vacation and saw you fixed it. Good for you! I love it when we save money!!! :D
    Take care,
    Crackerjax
  • Fred, you are welcome! I have found out that taking the battery out of a Dodge Caravan is like it playing Russian Roulette. I have learned to be VERY careful with the battery.
    Crackerjax
  • Try the recalibration again and wait until you see the two blinking lights then wait until you see one blinking light. It may take a little while. If you see it, press the one blinking light and hold it a few seconds and let go. See if it worked. If not, it could be a short circuit. Go through the signal process and see if any trouble lights come up. Do this:
    Get some paper and a pen.
    Put your key in the ignition.
    Start with the key off.
    Turn the key on, then off, then on, then off then back to on and leave it on.
    The check engine light will start to flash. Write down how many flashes. The codes will blink in two digit numbers so say 23 will look like "flash,flash" pause "flash, flash, flash" the computer will run through all the fault codes in it's memory. You know it is done when it flashes 5 5, which is 5 flashes pause then 5 flashes. It is telling you that is all. you can look up the code numbers on the internet. I think I got this set of codes at www.allpar.com. It is pretty basic and you might go online for any more info and more detailed codes. Keep in mind codes can change with years and makes so you might use the set I list below and see if any flashes match the codes below and that might help you see where the problem is. I hope this helps.
    Codes for many Dodge Caravans
    11 No ignition reference signal detected during cranking (bad Hall effect) OR timing belt skipped one or more teeth; OR loss of either camshaft or crankshaft position sensor. Can cause the engine to stop working entirely with no limp-home mode.
    12 Battery or computer recently disconnected
    13 MAP sensor or vacuum line may not be working
    14 MAP sensor voltage below .16V or over 4.96V
    15 No speed/distance sensor signal
    16 Loss of battery voltage detected with engine running
    17 Engine stays cool too long (bad thermostat or coolant sensor?)
    17 (1985 turbo only): knock sensor circuit
    21 Oxygen sensor signal doesn't change (stays at 4.3-4.5V). Probably bad oxygen sensor
    22 Coolant sensor signal out of range - May have been disconnected to set timing
    23 Incoming air temperature sensor may be bad
    24 Throttle position sensor over 4.96V
    25 Automatic Idle Speed (AIS) motor driver circuit shorted or target idle not reached, vacuum leak found
    26 Peak injector circuit voltage has not been reached (need to check computer signals, voltage reg, injectors) 27 Injector circuit isn't switching when it's told to (TBI)
    OR (MPI) injector circuit #1 not switching right
    OR (turbo) injector circuit #2 not switching right
    OR (all 1990-) injector output driver not responding
    - check computer, connections
    31 Bad evaporator purge solenoid circuit or driver
    32 (1984 only) power loss/limited lamp or circuit
    32 EGR gases not working (1988) - check vacuum, valve
    32 (1990-92, all but Turbo) computer didn't see change in air/'fuel ratio when EGR activated - check valve, vacuum lines, and EGR electrical
    33 Air conditioning clutch relay circuit open or shorted (may be in the wide-open-throttle cutoff circuit)
    34 (1984-86) EGR solenoid circuit shorted or open
    34 (1987-1991) speed control shorted or open
    35 Cooling fan relay circuit open or shorted
    35 (trucks) idle switch motor fault - check connections
    36 (turbo) Wastegate control circuit open or shorted
    36 (3.9/5.2 RWD) solenoid coil circuit (air switching)
    36 (Turbo IV) #3 Vent Solenoid open/short
    37 Shift indicator light failure, 5-speed OR
    part throttle lock/unlock solenoid driver circuit (87-89) OR
    solenoid coil circuit (85-89 Turbo I-IV) OR
    Trans temperature sensor voltage low
    41 Alternator field control circuit open or shorted
    42 Automatic shutdown relay circuit open or shorted
    42 Fuel pump relay control circuit
    42 Fuel level unit - no change over miles OR
    42 Z1 voltage missing when autoshutdown circuit energized
    43 Peak primary coil current not achieved with max dwell time OR
    43 Cylinder misfire OR
    43 Problem in power module to logic module interface
    44 No FJ2 voltage present at logic board OR
    44 Logic module self-diagnostics indicate problem OR
    44 Battery temperature out of range
    45 Turbo boost limit exceeded (engine was shut down by logic module)
    46 Battery voltage too high during charging or charging system voltage too low
    47 Battery voltage too low and alternator output too low
    51 Oxygen sensor stuck at lean position OR
    51 Internal logic module fault ('84 turbo only).
    52 Oxygen sensor stuck at rich position OR
    52 Internal logic module fault ('84 turbo only)
    53 Logic module internal problem
    54 No sync pickup signal during engine rotation (turbo only) OR
    54 Internal logic module fault ('84 turbo only) - or camshaft sensor/distributor timing (7)
    55 End of codes
    61 "Baro" sensor open or shorted
    62 EMR mileage cannot be stored in EEPROM
    62 PCM failure SRI mile not stored
    63 Controller cannot write to EEPROM
    64 Catalytic converter efficiency failure
    65 Power steering switch failure
  • I NEED HELPTO FIGURE OUT WHAT IS WRONG WITH MY 90 GMC SAFARI. ANY IDEAS
  • I have a 95 ford esscort, 1.9 4 cly. that is driving me crazy, I am getting no fire to
    my plug. I changed the coil and no fire, I had the E.C.M. tested at a local Auto Zone and it showed it as working properly. The sales person at the Auto Zone is telling me to try a cam shaft sensor.......or....the list go's on. I feel as if Im becomeing one of his "best customers"? I need HELP, if anyone can give some ideals or if they know what the problem is please help................thank you.
  • SylviaSylvia Posts: 1,636
    Great answers! Glad to have you on board and thanks for helping your fellow motorist :D
  • stewgystewgy Posts: 1
    Hi there Just joined specfiicly for this trouble. I was just informed that my sisters supra has the same trouble. exactly. I havent looked at yet I hope ill be able to soon as this trouble is kinda unsafe. I was just wondering if you ever got an answer as to what was causing the problem, Feel free to email me. Thank you.
  • I am sorry, I dont know if Im looking in the right spot for answers to my questions? I just click on resent messages right?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,989
    Yes if you subscribed to the forum so that the message center knows to notify you.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • SylviaSylvia Posts: 1,636
    If you look to the left under Forums Tools and see the "My Recent Posts" link you can find your message/question and underneath it will be light/gray links to any answers that were provided.

    And as Shifty said, you can always click the Subscribe link in the discussion and when you return on your next visit click Read Subscriptions or Message Center to see if new messages have been posted in that discussion.
  • jkolakjkolak Posts: 2
    Hi all,
    Hope you can help me with a lemon I have owned for five years, and spent $3800 on in the last 18 months. The mystery problem.....engine has a misfire at low rpm, three dealers have scoped it...nothing but emission codes....have installed a new egr, plugs, wires, fuel pump, fuel injectors, cap, rotor. Have unhooked every part of the emission control system one at a time to fool the computer....nothing.
    All that works is to replace the cap and rotor....that buys me around 150 miles of carefree driving. then, time for a new cap and rotor. Inside of cap has no wear marks, but looks like some kind of corrosion, or coating on the contacts. If your step on the gas hard, she runs fine.,...low speed, or even cruise control on the highway, and you have a miss....It is not rain related......please help!
  • bailey3bailey3 Posts: 2
    Hello, I bought a 1995 Cirrus 5 months ago with 147,000 kms and it has worked fine until recently. My husband lost the remote to the keyless entry several weeks ago and last week locked the doors to my car with the power door lock and then opened the passenger door with the key. This set off the factory alarm. He couldn't get it to stop by holding the key in the unlock position in either door, so he took off the battery cable for awhile. This didn't work either so he called the local Chrysler dealer, they suggested getting a new remote so we got a used one took the car to the dealer (towed) and they programed the new remote but that did not shut off the alarm. He asked if they could disable the alarm altogher and they can't. So now it sits at the dealer as they call back and forth to Chysler Motors trying to disarm this thing. You would think a fuse or something could be pulled to shut it off but no luck so far. If I ever get it fixed, I'm selling it quick!!

    Does anyone have any idea how to turn this alarm off?
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Replace the body control computer.
  • keirkeir Posts: 1
    I have a 1999 Pontiac Sunfire that won't start. Went to start her up after the holiday weekend and no turnover, nothing. Dead. Jumped her and she ran for a few minutes, but then died again. Got a new battery and put it in and she started up fine, but then the ABS warning light came on, the Airbag warning light went on and off a few times, the head and interior lights brightened when I stepped on the gas, and in Drive the car felt like I was driving her in 2nd. Gave up for the night and went back out today and back to square one. No turnover, nothing. Dead. Help! :confuse:
  • bbach1961bbach1961 Posts: 1
    I have a wierd electric problem with my 1998 Maxima SE. I'm driving along and my A/C, most of my guages and my power windows stop working. Usually, this happens when I flip on a blinker. After 10 minutes or so, everything pops back on while I am driving down the road. Sometimes, I can shut the car off, turn it on and it will reset but not always. Where do I start to debug this? -- Bud
  • problem2problem2 Posts: 2
    Hi
    i have a escort 96 automatic 5 door. about some days a have the batery lighter on. i change the batery but after 2 day is the same. i put the multimeter to the batery and i have 14.5 when the engine is on. the batery is very hot and have some smell.
    sorry for my english
  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    i think most auto-supply stores will do a battery / alternator test for you. normally people worry about a battery running low because their alternator isn't charging it, or the battery is old and weak. however, in your case, because the battery is new and very hot, it seems the charging circuit may have a problem - not sure but one would think there would be protection device to clip the output of the alternator above some voltage so it didn't damage the battery. maybe an independant shop can help you there.
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    The speed sensor in the differential is for the ABS system.
  • burdawgburdawg Posts: 1,524
    If the odometer is working the cable must be good. I would suspect an internal problem in the speedo unit itself.
  • My 1999 Chev Express G1500 full size van with 97,000 miles has begun to emit a high pitched whine that sounds like a Dentist's Drill. The static / noise is audible only after the engine has been running for 20 or 30 minutes or more and the noise is in exact rhythm of the engine rev's (going up with RPMs on Acceleration, going down with RPMs on deceleration and noise holds steady at cruising speed). The noise gets louder when I turn the headlights on, and the noise can be heard through my radar detector---yes coming from my radar detector up on the windshield---and also through only my rear stereo speakers (rear channels only for some crazy reason, not the front) and the dome lights dim in sequence with the rising, falling of RPM's but that could be simply normal generator inefficiencies at not keeping current steady). This problem started co-incidentally only after U-Haul installed a trailer hitch with wiring harness tied into my taillights. They have since re-wired the 3 to 2 wire conversion hitch pigtail for GM products after we discovered that one brake light was always on and one turn signal had stopped working following the hitch installation. Now the taillights work properly but the audio whine is still present and I still suspect the whine may have been caused by the U-Haul trailer wiring harness installation, because the noise had not presented itself until after that work was done, but I can't ask them to troubleshoot it if it turns out to be a coincidence.

    One friend suspects it could be my GM AM-FM radio/integrated security alarm gone bad, and I additionally suspect a bad spark plug wire because it only starts happening when the engine gets warm after driving 30 to 60 miles, and the van has nearly 100,000 miles (about time for an expensive tune up with new ignition wires).

    Once the engine is warm, the whine doesn't go away but can be quieted drastically (but not completely) by turning off the headlights. It drives me crazy listening to the high speed rpm-whine. (What a strange array of symptoms---only with warm engine, louder when headlights are on---sound is sympathetic to engine rpms----and whine comes through my radar detector, but when I unplug the radar detector it comes through my rear car radio speakers----even if the radio is OFF!)

    Yes I have unplugged the power cord to the Radar Detector, and turned the GM AM/FM Radio off, and the noise still comes through this conversion van's rear speakers. Turning the headlights on makes the whining sound much louder, turning the headlights off reduces the sound to almost inaudible but not quite.

    Maybe a poor ground somewhere? I am open to suggestions on how to trace this and fix it. It must be RF (radio frequency) because the Radar Detector is really just a radio receiver itself. Thank you in advance for any help.
  • boziebozie Posts: 30
    I'm gonna get this in the correct forum by my next birthday of which I'll be 77 yr's young or die trying. Huh. Here's the shortest version of my problem. I have centered the problem in the fuse block area. Now let's stay away from discussing the door switches. The main light switch, the roll dimmer switch etc. Here's where it stands as of now. Pulling the 20-amp courtesy light fuse want cut them off. Pulling the horn 20-amp fuse will shut them off, but I lose my horn, and radio. That fuse is located just above the courtesy light fuse. If no other thought's on this how much trouble is it to remove the fuse block? Pull it and inspect it. It really look's tough to do. Thank's, Bozie
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,989
    sounds like alternator interference. A radio shop should be able to correct this.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • boziebozie Posts: 30
    Come on Guy's @ Doll's give me some help. It's hot out there. Some one should help me solve my courtesy light problem. I'm down to re-moving the fuse block, thinking it may be a cross short between the radio-horn fuse and the courtesy light fuse. You pull the courtesy light fuse the light's want go off. Pull the radio-horn fuse they go off. Should I pull the block and how much trouble is it to pull. Look's hard to do to me. There is a firewall main line plug to the back of the block under hood-fact is a couple of plugs. Then as I can see a couple of screw's or more holding the block under the dash. Maybe more work than that. What your view on this. Waiting for a good answer ASAP- Thank's Bozie
  • morr1smorr1s Posts: 1
    I have a 1996 Jimmy SLS 4.3L 4 wheel drive. About 4 years ago the check engine light came on and I replaced all three O2 sensors. About 6 months later the check engine light came on and it was the O2 sensors again. I have been driving it without any problems but now it won't pass the new New York State inspection. I brought it to a mechanic and he originally thought it might be the wiring harness, but instead he changed the map sensor. I drove about 15 miles and the engine light came back on. I don't want to get caught up replacing parts I don't need trying to figure this out.
    I also have problems sometimes when it rains my car will barely move unless I let up on the gas and then press it again.
    It's probably unrelated, but also about 2 weeks ago I started blowing my fuse which controls the courtesy lights, rear hatch and horn. At first I could change the fuse and it would last a few days. Today I blew three in a row and they sparked as soon as I put them in.
    My mechanic's original guess was I might have a leak in my wiring harness.
    Thanks in advance for any assistance.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    I think you have a ground problem. This causes 'feedback' through circuits which should not be flowing current.

    Where that problem might be ????? I don't have any help for you.....
  • boziebozie Posts: 30
    Hey you great men and women of knowledge! Where's the help? Been posting this problem for several day's now and haven't gotten but one tincy-wincy bite and had tried that one already. #395 this page. All day's work yesterday produced a faulty door jam switch. Gonna replace it today. One connection wire was not connected and the contnunity showed bad. Let you know if that switch solves the problem. I have little faith that it will. I still believe it is somewhere in a lap-over in the fuse's for the horn and courtesy lights. Thank's Bozie
  • boziebozie Posts: 30
    TO BOLIVAR-Reply: You know you might just hit the nail on the head with the ground problem. Maybe this doorjam switch I'm replacing today might just solve the problem. Just gotta fix it and see. Thank's Bozie
  • SylviaSylvia Posts: 1,636
    Hey Bozie - you might want to post your question in the Chevy Tahoe discussion as well. Sometimes it takes a couple of days for the right person to come along that has the answer, especially on older vehicles.
  • pkrdfairpkrdfair Posts: 3
    I currently own a 2002 Chrysler T&C LXi with 3.8 liter. My electrical problems started when one morning my van would'nt start. The local shop diagnosed it with a computer as having a bad ECM. They replaced that. The vehicle had no problems for about a week and then the same identical thing happened. No start problem. I had it towed in (the tow truck driver also couldn't start it) The shop started it immediately upon arrival and then checked the starter, battery, neutral safety switch and ignition wiring and found no problems. It continiued to start for them with no problems. I picked up the vehicle, took it on vacation and also had no problems. This last time I saw the ABS lite come on (which I had also noticed intermittently on the prior times) As soon as i shut the vehicle off it would not restart. As i began to analyze all occurrences it dawned on me that the abs lite was on prior to all three occurrences and also i had noticed that the seat belt lite had been flickering on and off at different times (although this didnt necessarily happen before the no start problem) This time the shop noticed that the fuse was blown for the ABS circuit. As soon as they replaced the ABS fuse the van started. This was noto necessary the prior two times. The shop checked the ABS module (it was O.K.) and checked wiring (said it was O.K. too) they don't know what else to try. They told me that they would just be "throwing parts at it" at this point. Any suggestions or input would be helpful.
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