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Toyota Echo Care and Maintenance

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Comments

  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,683
    I had the same experience with my new 2004. The drivers door and the ignition lock did not work very smoothly. But from experience I knew a shot of lock ease with graphite would work wonders. I make it a point to lube all the locks on the cars with this stuff once a year. Best to do it just before winter and freezing temps return. That will pretty much eliminate the possibility of frozen locks
    My 2001 ECHO came with three keys: a plastic headed one, a plain metal key, and a plain metal valet key. Wait it has FOUR! There is also a plastic emergency one that come in a credit card so it fits in your wallet.
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,669
    Yeah, when I bought the Matrix it came with two plastic-headed keys, because of course they are computer-chipped keys and cost a lot to buy. I guess given the Echo's price point and the fact that keys for it are cheap to buy (not computer chipped), they figured giving the customer only one plastic-headed key would be fine. But I would like a second one, and would get one if I were going to the trouble of changing a lock.

    I do have the other metal key and the valet key though. I don't have the plastic one, but that's not surprising.

    2013 Civic SI, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (stick)

  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,683
    Another advantage for the ECHO: non chipped key. BMW is currently having all kinds of trouble with failed chips in their keys. Chip fails, you dont move. Could be REAL trouble! And for what? ECHO has built in theft prevention, no one wants to steal it!
  • sln2112sln2112 Posts: 2
    Both of my reverse lights are out on my 2001 Echo.What are the odds they both burned out??? Can't find which fuse controls them,as nothing is marked. What else could it be?
  • yes both light can burn out. fuses are marked on inside the fuse box cover. my wifes 04 Echo has two fuse boxes. one inside under steering wheel closer to door & one under hood buy battery!
  • dakedake Posts: 131
    Yeah, it's most likely in the fuse box inside the vehicle, not the one under the hood. The fuse box is located behind the cubby underneath the steering wheel. If you pull the cover off, there should be a diagram on the backside of the cover. It doesn't look like there is one specifically labeled reverse lights, but there is one labeled "tail" and one labeled "brake", I'd try looking at those lower amperage ones and see if it's bad.
  • fujiwarafujiwara Posts: 3
    Planning to buy a friend 2000 Echo which have 140,0000 miles on it. I'm new to echo so I don't know much about these car but is there anything particular I should be looking for with this much mileage?

    One more question, I'm picking this car for only $2K....is this a good deal or not?

    Thanks much
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,669
    $2000 for an essentially 10-year-old Echo with 140K? I would think your friend would give you a better deal on a car whose wholesale value is basically zero.

    But beyond the price, you can't go wrong buying an Echo generally speaking, and this isn't even a car with a set of "things to look for" when buying used, beyond the usual: you want a car that has received regular oil changes and other maintenance and doesn't look like it has been beaten on too hard during its life.

    2013 Civic SI, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (stick)

  • sln2112sln2112 Posts: 2
    My wife has a 2001 Echo that I drive, because I travel so much with my job.
    That it gets 44 mpg is the most important thing...And it's paid for. Mine has right at 200,000 miles, and I just put $900 dollars in it changing hoses, spark plugs,brakes etc... With regular oil changes, I'm looking to hit the 300,000 mile mark.
    $2,000 sounds a little high...Maybe $ 1,000-1,500 depending on what shape it's in.
    I would let a mechanic check it out. But overall, I have been all over Texas many times in mine, and other than being small, I love it. Not very safe if you have a baby like we do...That's why I drive the Echo, and my wife drives the F-150.
    Good luck.
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,683
    Yeah run the engine after you test drive it. Look under the car with the engine running and see if transmission oil, coolant, engine oil etc is leakking. Is this auto or manual (better if it were manual) Everything should work. NO CHECK ENGINE LIGHT ON! Have the brakes checked. Have the coolant changed. Change the manual trans oil. Change/inspect the air filter. Check the tie rods/CV joints/ Ball joints. Check the engine belts.

    This was driven by a little old lady right? :P
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,683
    Hey my $10 cruise control on my Yaris is UP AND RUNNING! Works like the factory put it in. Am I a genius or what! :P
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,669
    And does it actually illuminate the cruise lights in the IP when in operation?

    2013 Civic SI, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (stick)

  • lhansonlhanson Posts: 268
    I'll give you $100 to come and do mine for me.
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,683
    Yes the two lights (SET and the CC icon) both light up. It turns on/off with one button, another sets/minus 1 mph speed, another plus 1 mph speed, and the fourth cancels. (but I dont know what THAT means)

    The CC is really all in there just minus the stalk. Three dealers deny this BTW. I told them Id pay them to install the stalk. Nope they say it cant be done! :mad:
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,669
    Cancel should really be labelled "disengage". It is the same as pressing the brake pedal. If you later want to resume the last set speed, you can do so after hitting cancel.

    Congrats!

    Toyota dealers are so deathly afraid of doing anything which might void part of the warranty, they will not touch stuff like this.....

    2013 Civic SI, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (stick)

  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,683
    Ah thats what its for! Yeah I wanna resume all the time.
  • fujiwarafujiwara Posts: 3
    Thank-you all for the reply. Anyway I checked the car (my friend car..) thoroughly and everything looks fine.

    She is the first owner of the car and she have all maintenance receipt (most maintenance were done at the dealer) to the car.

    So I think I will go ahead and make her an offer of $1,900... I know some of you might say that is a little high but with the raising fuel economy these car tend to sell above book value...

    Good luck to me and I'll check back in once I get the car.

    Thanks again.
  • fujiwarafujiwara Posts: 3
    Wait....did you say the belt? I thought all echo have timing chain which in term last over 200,0000 right or am I wrong on this one? :confuse:
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,683
    I meant the belts that power the power steering, alternator, air conditioning, and water pump. They are on the right side of the engine bay. You are right, there is no timing belt on an ECHO its a chain as you say. I wouldnt say it necessarily lasts 200,000 miles though! (but it might)
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,669
    120K has just come and gone with an oil change and tire rotation, the little car is still ticking along just like clockwork, and the tires with the 65K-mile treadwear warranty appear that they will do at least 70K (now at 60K), so that's good.

    This car STILL hasn't needed any repairs whatsoever. I like it that way, just hope I am not jinxing myself by saying it "out loud"! :-P

    2013 Civic SI, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (stick)

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