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Toyota Echo Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,691
    CHECK YOUR FUSES FIRST! It could also be your ignition lock. Really this is something a competant shop should be able to fix 1 2 3.
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,691
    YES there would be scoring. A lot of scoring. The fact that the car has 4800 miles on it argues AGAINST there being a mechanical problem. (although there could be) You said it yourself: your Mom was in a terrible car accident recently. I suspect that is whats driving this. Its almost impossible the wheel is LOCKING UP because there would have been an accident. If the car has been checked out by a good nechanic he would have found any obvious defect. Something is making a noise and your Mother is, understandably, made very upset by it. Hopefully you will be in the car the next time it happens and will be better able to get some idea of what is going on.
  • mpantusampantusa Posts: 5
    what i might also try to do is replace the fuses and see if that will work. but so far thank you for the help :)
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,692
    Sure why not. That's easy and cheap.

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  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,691
    OK check the fuses all of them but also check the ignition switch. When they go bad there can be a total loss of power. Good luck and tell us how you fixed it!
  • mpantusampantusa Posts: 5
    well here is the update, i replaced the fuses inside the engine and now the car will start and everything is great on that. Well here is the other problem i still have no brake lights,radio,dash,anything dealing inside the car. I replaced those fuses also but nothing im so frustrated right now :mad:
    Also when i am driving and right when it goes into the next gear it jumps, maybe since its been sitting for a couple of days i dont know.If not one thing its another.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,692
    Still sounds like fuse issues...I"m not sure if your transmission shifts are electronically regulated...

    can you read the chart in the fuse box or in your owner's manual. Can you see any relationship between radio, dashlights, brake lights? For instance, is it the same fuse? Or two adjacent fuses controlling these systems?

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  • smartechosmartecho Posts: 6
    I have a 2000 echo that has over 200,000 miles on it. The check engine light has been on for over 4 years. I was told it was an issue for this model. the computer is faulty. I cannot however, get it smogged due to this. The codes keep coming up random misfire, bad catalytic converter, and I've already put $1000. into it. the maf or mas air sensor has been replaced, the spark plugs, the coils, the transmission fluid changed. With each trip to the dealer I leave and 20 miles later the light comes back on, only with a new code. Mind you, one code at a time. Now it is saying the cat it bad. Well, I have a hard time believing that the cat is really bad when the car passes the emission part of the smog test. Has anyone else had problems like this with their echo? I also have electrical problems,the radio, overhead light, dingers, warning light that my brights are on all went out. I smelled electrical burning and tried to replace fuses but they blew immediatley. Can the electrical be causing faulty codes in the computer, possibly due to a bad "ground?" I don't know too much about cars, but I need to fix this. Otherwise, does anyone know anyway around the check engine light being on and throwing out codes, and getting it to pass smog? It passes the visual and the emissions part, but fails the "check engine light" part.
    thanks,
    steph
  • kosarinkosarin Posts: 14
    i had the same problem when i first bought my 2000....since it was still under warranty, kept taking it back to dealer but it would still malfunction...they finally figured out there was a design-flaw and they replaced w/new design for free...not sure if it was o2 sensor or computer...ask your dealer to check w/ technical service bulletins issued in late 2000, i think
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,692
    You might be able to take the car to a state referee and have it waived due to the money you've already spent to fix what seems to be quite unfixable at the moment. Call your DMV and find out.

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  • smartechosmartecho Posts: 6
    thanks, I have that bulletin and when my car was still under warranty, they replaced the computer twice for free. now out of warranty, i'm not sure what to do. i really don't feel that there is anything wrong, just faulty computer. thanks for the info.
    steph
  • smartechosmartecho Posts: 6
    thank you, I have tried that as well and they are unable to help.
    steph
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,692
    I'm suprised to hear that. This is California or ???

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  • smartechosmartecho Posts: 6
    Yes, California. Do you have insight I'm unaware of?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,692
    I was under the impression that if you fail smog you are only required to spend a certain amount of money and that once spent, you can petition a referee to waive your smog certification for that one period of time.

    See this:

    http://www.redwoodgeneral.com/smog_check.htm

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  • smartechosmartecho Posts: 6
    This is true. I talked with the referee but he couldn't help until 2008 because that is when it is due for smog again. I have been trying to fix this since March of 2006. Since it is after one year, I cannot go through referee until 2008. I was told they no longer waive the smog certificate and that in 2008 (Jan) the state will no longer allow D.M.V. to issue those colorful red squares of "extension". If the car doesn't pass smog they want it off the road "end of story". This is what I was recently told at the D.M.V. True or not...? We'll see.
    In order to get help right now, they gave me another 800# to call and it was brought to my attention that I had to go off of a special list of repair shops that could do the repairs and found that out after the $1000 I've already spent. But, here's the good news~after spending another $450.00 on more diagnostics (that will do no good)they would then help out with $500.00 towards costs of repairs, and give me a 2 year extension. However, I have to spend the $450.00 first and the 2 yr extension at this point will only get me until March 2008 and after the $500 they will throw in for repair, the rest of any and all expense is mine.
  • tmr263tmr263 Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 Toyota echo 5spd 4dr sedan. I just bought it a couple months ago for a 1000$ and all it really needed was a new clutch and fly wheel, i got those fixed and replaced, drive home was smooth, but then the next day i whent to drive it and now it grinds really bad when i turn left and i can't figure out what it is. I'm not that great with cars. And the spedometer quit working, the mechanic said it was the plug or something, but i think i should be able to get that fixed fairly easy.
  • hey guys, i've got a 2001 echo and it has been great. it has 200,000k recently the engine began shaking and i've been told it is either the serpintine belt or a motor mount issue. i've been looking under the hood and i can see at least two bolts missing in various places- only one is on a motor mount, but it is one of three bolts. i would really like to replace the missing bolt, but it doesn't match the other so how in the heck do i get the specifics on a bolt!????! anyone know anything about a serpintine belt?????!!!!
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,691
    KY999: I dont know about the bolt but I imagine Toyota would. The ECHO doesnt have a serpentine belt though.
    tmr263 I would check the CV joint on the front axle near the left wheel. The rubber boot may be shot and the joint destroyed.
  • the engine shakes the same in idle as it does while driving...my thought was that if it were the cv joint it would only matter while driving. any other thoughts?
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,693
    I think kneisl1's CV joint response was directed to somebody else.

    As for your engine shaking, I cannot imagine how a bad belt would do anything like that, but as kneisl mentioned, the Echo doesn't use a serpentine belt, and the engine shaking at idle and when rolling is almost certainly a bad or loose engine mount. Replacing that bolt might be difficult without replacing the mount itself, which doesn't cost all that much.

    Now I am assuming there that the engine is running fine, not idling up and down because of some other sensor or computer problem. If the sound of the engine at idle is even and it is just that you feel lots of vibrations inside, then get that engine mount replaced.

    tmr263: your problem could also be a sticking brake caliper at the front, which has ground out and is now catching and making horrendous sounds when you turn.

    2013 Civic SI, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (stick)

  • vrcohanimvrcohanim Posts: 2
    I just got a Toyota Echo 2000, can't drive the car until blue cold light is turned off
    (I live in Florida) otherwise it will hesitate and stall. Does any one know why?
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,691
    Possibly there is a bad temp sensor. Does the check engine light come one? I would look in the computer for fault codes. Auto Zone will read the computer for free. Hows the mileage?
  • vrcohanimvrcohanim Posts: 2
    thanks so much for the information, yes the car check engine light is always on and the car has 95000 miles,does it make any difference? I will take the car to Auto Zone for a computerize check, but wanted to know if it is something I can correct my self since my financial situation is dismal.
    thanks so much again for your time.
    Lisa
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,691
    I strongly suspect the check engine light being on is responsible for the problem. Well, I mean whatever is causing it to be on. It doesnt matter what the mileage is really. If you get lucky fixing what the CEL says to fix will solve the problem. Tell us what AZ says the fault code is. Maybe you can do something yourself.
  • smartechosmartecho Posts: 6
    Make sure that the valves do not need servicing. I have a 2000 echo that I will be retiring. The check engine light is on and I have spent $1100.00 to find out that the valve was tight and caused the catalytic converter to burn up. Which is a very pricey fix! So make sure that is not it. If you catch it early, it is not so expensive to fix. Once the cat is burnt...it's very expensive. Check also for the bulletin on 2000 echo's out in Dec 15, 2000. Your symptoms sound familiar to what mine was doing. I hope for you, it is an easy fix. Echo's are great cars and will last forever if you treat them right.
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,691
    I would look in junk yards for a cat. You can look in lots of them on the internet until you find one and they will mail it to you. How much for a new one? A lot of people have asked about maintenance and the 60k mile valve clearance check is often overlooked. A good reason to do it.
  • dsemerydsemery Posts: 5
    2003 Echo, most of the 89k miles are highway, rest are rural. Rear wheel bearings have been making noise that is getting louder. When manually turned does not feel smooth, suspect some spalling on the rollers/balls, whatever is inside.

    Units are more than bearings, integral with brake and wheel mounting faces; pricy thru dealer at $175 each. Anyone had experience rebuilding one of these? Got plenty free time for sweat equity.

    I see the home-owners shop guide is refered to here as service/repair manual, thanks for the postings on that folks.
  • dsemerydsemery Posts: 5
    2003 eacho, manual tranny, 14" wheel option; 89k miles.

    Pads and shoes replaced ca 55k, inspected and pads replaced last month. When inspected pads and shoes had lots of life left per the indicator grooves (only half worn).

    Problem is excessive vibration when braking at speed, does not always occur, but when it occurs is worse than ABS (which I dont have). No noise I can tell.

    Was surprised at the amount of play in the rotor, is this normal?

    Surface of rotor was lightly scarred, didnt have it turned, cant afford that now.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,692
    I'd try a wrecking yard. So they are part of a hub assembly, is that it? I suppose you can remove the hub off the dumb beam axle back there, and have a machine shop press in a new bearing. You can often match bearings up by # or cross-reference.

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