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Toyota Echo Maintenance and Repair



  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,683
    What were the error codes exactly?
  • 2000 toyota echo with 133000 miles. After the engine warms up and I drive it about a mile down the road the oil pressure light starts coming on. No engine trouble codes in the computer. Can this problem be anything other than the oil pump or the oil pressure sending unit?
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,683
    Could be low oil level. Could be the engine bearings are worn out and wont hold oil pressure. Could be the pressure relief valve is sticking open.
  • Hey thanks for responding!
    I don't know what the codes are any more because they were discarded.
    I did spray the mass air flow sencor and the car does have a better top end response.
  • If the pressure relief valve is at fault then replacing the oil pump unit would solve the problem correct?
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,683
    No the PRV can stick in the open position. In the open position it is dumping oil right back into the crankcase to relieve the higher oil pressure typically present at startup. So either the piston, the spring, or the bore it moves in are dammaged. Frankly I would be suprised if the oil pump was bad. Most likely the rod bearings are worn out. Although its possible the oil level is low or the oil somehow diluted with gasoline.
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,669
    In such a young car, I would suspect the bearings and oil pump less than I would suspect the oil sending unit (the most likely cause, IMO), or possibly a bad oil pressure sending unit (although if it were the oil pressure sensor, I don't think the symptoms would exhibit this way - you would probably just get the light flickering or solidly on all the time including when the oil is cold).

    2013 Civic SI, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (stick)

  • So...I've read all 40 pages of discussion and noticed that a good many have hesitation issues. My '01 manual trans echo 180K also has been hesitating getting gradually worse over the past 6 or 7 months. I started by changing the plugs and air filter, and threw in some fuel injector cleaner, and it had minimal effect. Now it's getting worse. I had Auto Zone check the engine light code, and it came up Intermittent Cylinder 1 Misfire. Any thoughts? I plan on cleaning the MAF sensor and possibly installing new plugs again, in case there was a bad one. I've tried to find plug wires, but couldn't find any when I idle it will act like it's about to stall, but doesn't, when I press on the gas, it takes a minute then revs up, if I'm idling with the clutch depressed the idle gets rougher than if I let my foot off of the clutch, if I don't shift until higher rpms, it minimizes the hesitation, and if I'm going 50mph or so in 5th gear it'll hesitate and same sort of thing in all the other gears, low rpm = hesitation...Thanks and have a great day!
  • actually everyone drives a car differently,
    have 95,000 mi.on my manual 01 and no problems at all.
    previously i had an 87 civic si before my echo and got 150,000 miles on that before replacing the clutch.i can only attribute it to my driving habits.j
  • hi am new here.
    have an 01 echo manual trans.95,000 mi and have done not much of anything except change the oil every 3000-4000 miles.
    i am wondering if i need to do something as far as maintenance goes am almost waiting for something to not used to this kind of reliability.
    i did have scheduled maintenance at around 36,000.that was it.(got car w/22,000 on it already)
    i am skeptical of the owners manual,and generally do not trust the dealerships as far as their recomendations.they told me to change transmission fluid,on a manual.never heard of that before.
    i was thinking it is time to replace plugs and fan belt.
    also was thinking that mabe i should replace timing belt.
    mabe flush radiator for the winter.i personally do not believe timing belts on japanese cars need changing before 100,000.
    any suggestion?
    also i live in north jersey and was looking for an independant mechanic that specializes in japanese cars.
    can't seem to locate any.
    i did have a problem w/front door switches going.i do not believe that they are burned out,only stuck,as recently the passenger side started to work temporarially.
    these are the switches that turn on interior light when door is opened,and make that buzzing noise if you leave ur lights on/keys in ignition.only down side is that i have left lights on w/out knowing locked keys in car,i always keep a spare key w/me at all times.
    i am not someone that works on cars.
    i have read some of the posts on here and someone mentioned cleaning the injectors.isn't that a huge no-no?i thought that anything more aggressive than pouring the occasional injector cleaner in the gas tank was about all someone should do.
    sorry this is such a long post.
    anh suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,683
    No timing belt on an ECHO its a chain. ECHOs as they come from the factory (or at least my 2001) do NOT come with 100k mile spark plugs. It says right in the owners manual change the plugs every 30k miles. Of course if someone has installed platinum plugs they are good for 100k miles. If you use brand name gasoline then in my experience you dont need injector cleaner. Also people tend to have injector problems if they dont drivethe car regularly. DEFINATELY change the oil in the transmission. At the very least check the level in it once a year. As it is older now its possible to have a leak and if the level falls below a certain level she'll blow. If your fan belts are origional yes its time to change them most likely. At least look at them once a year and see if the tiny Vee's are disintegrating. If the coolant has not been changed I would change it with Toyota long life coolant and have it flushed. Hows the air filter? Something you didnt mention which is very important. Sounds like your ECHO is a great car for you!
  • Greetings All,
    I have a 2001 Echo with 89,000 miles. I have noticed during cold temperatures the engine ticks more than normal. It's not severe, but there is a slight ticking noise in gear and while idling. When it is warm out, this noise is not there. I'm just wondering if this is common and if there is any way to have this ticking eliminated. A few people have told me that this is common with Toyotas and 4 cylinders in particular. Just curious if anybody has any input on the matter. Thanks all!
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,683
    Are you using 5w-30 oil in winter?
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,669
    Toyota changed the spec for the plugs right in the middle of the model run. The 2000s and 2001s use the regular old 30K-mile plugs. Some of the '02s do as well, then they switched to the long-life platinum plugs for all remaining Echos until they went away.

    Mine uses the long-life plugs, and you can easily tell the difference as there is a sticker right on top of the engine that tells you to use only the platinums on models so spec'd (at least on the '02s there is). I changed the platinums at 60K and plan to do it again at 120K miles as I like to run a clean machine and old plugs have so much to do with your car producing excessive smog-forming emissions.

    You should change the manual transmission oil at least once every 100K miles - I am just coming up on doing that myself. It's really something you probably ought to do every 60K miles also, but I have found that on Toyotas you can get away with 100K intervals. :blush:

    I tend to change out coolant and brake fluid every two years (about 30-40K miles for me) to avoid rust and water build-up respectively. You could let that slide some, but not too much. Toyota says every 30K for a new air filter, and no, there's no timing belt in the Echo. Thank goodness it's a chain!

    2013 Civic SI, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (stick)

  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,683
    Oh one bad thing about platinum plugs I forgot to mention. Actually theres nothing bad about the plugs themselves. But if you leave them in there for 100k miles and years and years you might not be able to get them out! The threads can corrode and weld themselves to the head. So its very easy to strip the thread removing them, if its possible to get them out at all. My wifes Camry has them and I remove them every once in awhile, clean the threads, and put them back.
  • good tip! And you can use "anti-seize" compound on the threads before you screw the plugs in. That works great.
  • pulgopulgo Posts: 400
    You are right!

    Removing and reinstalling spark plugs unnecessarily may cause dirt to enter the engine and that is not good.

    Anti-seize is the way to go!
  • The noise appreard to be coming from the transmission. When I start the car, the noise isnt there but when I put the car in neutral or in drive, there is a noise that is hard to explain. It isnt a click, its more like a clink. a metallic noise. It is much more apparent during cold temperatures. Actually in the summer, I never even heard the noise. Now that its colder out, the noise is apparent. Any ideas?
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,683
    You got me on this one. I dont have a lot of experience on auto transmissions. I would check the oil level in the tranmission per the owners manual to be sure you are doing it right. Also, you could start and run the car and look underneath it for a leak. If you see one put a large piece of cardboard under it. Transmission oil is red. I dont think youll find anything wrong but who knows? Your next choice is take it to a mechanic you trust OR just drive it! If you DO go to a mechanic, be prepared for them to go over the car and find fifty things "wrong" with it that need immediate attention and need to be fixed "right away". Get ready to say NO JUST FIX THE PROBLEM I TOLD YOU ABOUT! How many miles on the car now?
  • Right now, I have 89,000 miles. I have noticed that this noise is only present when the car is in gear. I am thinking this noise may be a belt. The noise isnt there when I fire the car up or have the car in neutral, but as soon as I put the car in drive, the noise is there. It is much more prevelant when I have my foot on the brake pedal and its in gear (red light). This noise is also not there when the weather is warmer, only when its cold out. Any ideas? I definitely dont have any leaks under the car and always have my fluids changed regularly. Thanks!
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