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Toyota Echo Maintenance and Repair



  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,685
    Go for it! The ECHO is about the most reliable car made. I predict a successfull trip!
  • When I sold my 2001 Echo at 180k miles it was still going strong. Not even a light bulb failed in 5 and 1 half years. Go for it!
  • Just got back from 1890 mile round trip from AR. to SC. coast. 2004 Echo 50,000 miles 70 to 80 miles per hour with cruise on. Averaged 41 miles per gallon. The Echo is great little car. GO ON YOUR TRIP & HAVE FUN! :)
  • gmg016gmg016 Posts: 2
    I own a 2005 Toyota Echo RS Hatchback with 53000km on it. purchased new and very satisfied with its fun value and practicality. After a recent service the dealer advised me that the clutch is slipping, particularly when passing at highway speeds, and that I should replace the clutch cover, clutch disc and release bearing. They had previously said the same thing at 35000km. I can't say that I have noticed any difference over the past 18000km so am somewhat concerned what is going on. Has anyone else had similar clutch problems? I have driven a manual shift for over 40 years and this is the first time I have ever had such a problem. I am tempted to replace the clutch, if I have to, with a TRD street performance unit. Comments are welcome!!
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,685
    Is there an oil leak between the engine and transmission? That is the only way I know of to cause this problem. Since you report no problem yourself, I strongly suspect the dealer is full of it. I would get the car away from them if I were you.
  • gmg016gmg016 Posts: 2
    there doesn't appear to be any oil leak externally and I have not needed to add oil to the engine so I don't think that there is an internal leak. I am concerned that the problem, if there is one, may be caused by a faulty release bearing and believe that the whole situation should be covered under warranty. The dealer is saying that I would have to pay for everything. I expect that I will continue to drive the car and see if anything develops. Thanks for your comments.
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,685
    I dont see how a release bearing could cause this problem. Generally if there is a genuine problem with the clutch then YOU would know about it long before the dealer sees it. Good luck and I seldom hear about problems like that in an ECHO!
  • kosarinkosarin Posts: 14
    i agree w/previous poster that you should find a new mechanic...try "mechanix files" to find a good one close by (and to see if others have had problems w/yours)
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,687
    Any clutch that was truly slipping at 35K would not still be slipping at 53K, it would have given up the ghost long before now. And if you have been driving a stick for 40 years I am sure you know what a slipping clutch feels like, no?

    Take it up to 45 or 50 mph, put it in 5th, and floor it. If the engine revs jump way up with no appreciable increase in speed, the clutch is slipping. If the engine just drones at a low rpm and speed begins to increase, it's fine. In the second case, you should discontinue patronage of that dealership as soon as possible.

    My Echo has its original clutch at 100K miles, and gives no subtle messages that it might be thinking of dying any time soon...

    PS if you discover that it really does have a slipping clutch, then you pull out that paperwork from the 35K service and you go after warranty coverage aggressively. For the throwout bearing to quit after only 35K kilometers, it would have to be pretty lousy and probably a defective part.

    2013 Civic SI, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (stick)

  • echo2003echo2003 Posts: 4
    I have an '03 Echo, my first car. Just curious about costs of periodic maintenance.
    Today I did my 30,000 mile scheduled maintenance at the Toyota dealership. I assume that a dealer will be more expensive than other options...just curious if the following are reasonable:
    1) Replaced Front Brake pads [Parts+Labor=$140]
    2) Four-Wheel Alignment [Parts+Labor=$80]
    3) Exterior Drive Belt Replacement [Parts+Labor=$56]
    4] Lube Oil and Filter Service [Parts+Labor=$43]
    5) Oil [Parts+Labor=$23]
    6) Tires replaced (had dry rot?) and Installed (Bridgestone) [Parts+Labor=$369]
    7) Fuel Induction Cleaning Service [Parts+Labor=$130]

    Total Cost (including misc fees): $970.

    Just curious is this is typical, Thanks :confuse:
  • kosarinkosarin Posts: 14
    no particular item looks too bad --tho i don't know what fuel induction cleaning is--but my advice is just change the oil every 5,000 miles and service anything that goes wrong
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,685
    You got raped on the tires. Hard to believe they were dry rotted only being 5 years old. I still have the origionals (in storage for an emergency) from my 2001 and they are fine. NEVER let them "clean" your fuel system, waste of money. Alignment was probably unecessary unless the tires were worn funny. Hard to believe your belts were worn out after only five years 30k miles. Mine are from 2001 and have 40k on them and are like new. Also front brake pads on mine are like new hard to believe yours were toast unless you are driving like nuts. Even if you dont have any work done the (s)tealer gets like $300 just to inspect the car, change the oil and air filter at 30k miles. Plus they nickle and dime you to death for s$%^ like tires, belts, pads etc which sounds like what happened to you. What was the total bill? Other than that the prices seem fair. I just question whether a lot of that was necessary. Maybe some of it was. (but I doubt it) If at all possible try to find an independent garage to do the the work because youll pay through the nose at the dealer. You have a great car in the ECHO! Good luck with it!
  • dennis42dennis42 Posts: 8
    Echo 2000 - 130,000 miles oil changed every 5000 I live in mid west Florida.
    For past four months now I have tried to resolve this.
    Check engine light started coming on after restarting the car after being hwy driven. Code was lean Bank 1 or 2.
    I replaced both Oxegen sensors and cleaned the MAF, I also cleaned the thorotle body with carb cleaner. All three items helped the car run better.
    Light came on again, with the same code.
    Then one day after being off several hours and after highway driven I started it, turned the air on, drove off, and there was a very bad hesitation. I turned the air off but the car still hesitated but after several miles it worked its way out.
    So I changed the plugs with Iridiums & all four coils. Car ran even better, just like new.
    Then I drove the hwy this past Friday, yesterday morning "Saturday" I got in, started it and started to drive off and it had a very, very bad hesitation, no power, I sat there for a minute and let it run at idle, then I drove off with the hesitation, but not nearly as bad. I stopped at one store with the car fully warmed up. After shopping for 30 minutes I started it again the hesitation was there but not as bad, the further I drove the hesitation went away.
    Sunday, this morning, I went out, started it and drove off like I usually do, and it ran with now hesitation.
    So the heisitation is happening after highway driving.
    Can anyone give me some advice as to what my be wrong?
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,685
    What exactly is the error code?
  • dennis42dennis42 Posts: 8
    I want to say 171
  • ridley2ridley2 Posts: 3
    Hi i have a 2000 echo sedan. I dont have manual but need to adjust handbrake.I cant find where the adjustment is for the handbrake.Can anyone help thank you.
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,685
    The Officical ECHO service manual says for error code PO171 the follwoing things should be checked:

    air induction system (blockage in there?)
    injector blockage
    mass flow air meter
    engine coolant temp sensor
    fuel pressure (fuel filter plugged? and there IS a FF on the fuel pump in the gas tank!)
    gas leakage from exhaust system (hole in pipes/muffler?)
    open or short in oxy sensor bank1 sensor1 circuit (not just the sensors the wiring too!)
    heated oxy sensor b1 s1)

    Hope this helps!
  • I have a 2001 Echo with 80,000mi on it. I love it because I have never had a mechanical issue with it. It is a manual transmission and in the last week has started to stutter in the lower end of gears. It's not because of the driver either. I tried to blame it on my boyfriend's driving ability, but then it happened to me too. In ranges of the gear that is absolutely normal, just on the lower end, it has interruptions while the gas is pressed. It's more noticeable in 1st or 2nd, but happens in 3rd too. This is totally different than stalling the engine with poor clutch timing...I've been driving this car everyday for seven years. :surprise: I think I'll start with some fuel injector cleaner, but does anyone have any ideas???
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,687
    Unless something is actually broken, the handbrake self-adjusts every time you hit the foot brake while reversing. There is no manual adjustment.

    2013 Civic SI, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (stick)

  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,685
    I have noticed when it rains the clutch is grabby. It clears up when it drys out for a few days.
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