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Toyota Echo Maintenance and Repair

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  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,041
    I think we need better information here, or MORE information, to help you.

    It seems odd that a dealer would want to remove an engine based on a check engine light??? :surprise: Didn't they say more about this?

    And the mechanic---there must have been a NUMBER attached to this message? What was that trouble code number?

    If the scanner couldn't communicate with the ECM, it would have said so.

    It might be that your problem is the repair shops you're going to, or a certain lack of communication between you and the mechanics.

    But if you can gather more info, maybe we can come up with ideas on approaching the problem at hand.

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  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,690
    Check engine light on with this code read by an OBD2 scanner. Book says:
    air induction system
    injector blockage
    mass air flow meter
    engine coolant temp sensor
    fuel pressure
    exhaust leak
    open or short in heated oxy sensor bank 1 sensor 1
    heated oxygen sensor bank 1 sensor1

    Has anyone dealt with this error code and what did you find? Any hints on how to proceed or how to check each item for goodness?

    Thanks!
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,690
    Possible to dammage anything running the engine with this error code set? Engine runs like a watch.
  • I am having the same problem, now you can hear it at any time and just getting louder....did you get an answer? But mine is a 2000 Echo manual trans.
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,690
    Changed the (dirty) air filter. Cleaned the two ultra fine wires in the MAF sensor using brake cleaner. CEL off!
  • typentypen Posts: 7
    Update, i bit late, problem was the breather tube that goes from evap canister to top of filler neck was rusted on the inside and blocked,also when i removed it it broke and found many small pin holes under the road grim, replaced tube, turned off check light, zero codes. just for info, if check light comes on and code P0440 comes up, check fuel neck when o-ring in fuel cap seals, any dirt or rust biuld up will cause a leak and check engine light will come on, we have two echo's both have do it.
  • Hi there i was just wondering if anyone could help me with a problem my mum is having with her 2004 toyota echo 1.3lt 2dr hatch, it seems to have a shaking of the engine and a huffing noise from the back end of the car when idling and while driving it sounds like a chuff cutter i keep telling her its a timing chain but she still wants to know if anyone else has any ideas.
    Any feedback would be great thanks heaps :confuse: :sick:
  • jwstl80jwstl80 Posts: 2
    I have a 2000 Toyota Echo with ignorant belt noise on first start up and intial take off from a stop. I have narrowed it down to the AC Clutch and Pulley. I have boughten a belt from local part store for a Non-AC Echo and placed the belt in just bypassed the AC Compressor completely. Now no more belt noise... Now I have to just remove the compressor and take out the clutch stator and other pieces on shaft and replace. But the kicker is the clutch kit cost 359.00 at local part house. I can buy a complete compressor for this car with new clutches pulley and coil for 339.00 at www.carstuff.com Plus the cost of compressor oil and 134A. All the spute about plugs on this blog they are original factory plug are Iridium plugs. I find that the NGK 4996 Iridium Plug giv eme the best performance in my 2000 Toyota Echo. The only problem I am having with my Echo is Poor Tire quality. Can't seem to find a tire that gives me the best treadwear and life. I have 387765 miles on it today when I changed the oil. I am trying to beat the record in our county for toyotas without rebuilding the engine. It was held by a Corolla with 488,000 miles before complete engine melt down. But alot was due to owner poor maintenance on a higher mileage engine.
  • jwstl80jwstl80 Posts: 2
    They did have a motor mount binding issue in that year with those cars.
  • hi there i myself went over my mums car over the long weekend and i think i may have found her problem i think its injectors if not with over 130,000 ks on her it could be timing belt to so i ordered new injectors only cost 120 with postage so thats not to bad but if it timing belt gunna cost more so mum is happy for mean time cause her daughter could find the problems for her as shes disabled. anyways ill keep you all up to date on how i go and if anything else goes wrong ill come ask advice again thanks heaps to everyone :)
  • Echo's have no timing belt. Try to change spark plugs to. :)
  • i know they dont have a timing belt i meant chain but found out it was the injectors and have changed the spark plugs as well :)
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,690
    Is the CEL on?
  • elecjohn58elecjohn58 Posts: 4
    I have a 2000 echo with 125k on the engine. Engine starts to run rough,looses power and then engine speeds up until computer compensates. first i was told that either the throttle position sensor or the mass air flow sensor could be the problem. Replaced the throttle position sensor and plugs and problem resurfaced. Took it to auto zone and left with a long list of possibilities. Anyone had this problem.Car runs well with service engine light on but won't pass pa. inspection and can't help the gas mpg.
  • realwilkesrealwilkes Posts: 3
    i had this problem as well...eventually found some info on the mass air flow meter...its an easy fix and a good place to start...its located on top of the air filter, 2 screws hold it in, just remove those screws and pull it out, now there are two circuits down in there, i just took some wd-40 and sprayed it down in there until the caked on dust came off and i could see the circuits clearly, let it dry and put it back in( oh yeah, make sure you disconnect it first...also if it runs rough anyways, unhook the mass air flow meter while its running...if it immediately runs smoother, thats your problem) check out these pics

    http://www.autotips101.com/cms/media/engine_performance/dirty_maf_final.jpg
  • realwilkesrealwilkes Posts: 3
    yeah, first thing to check is your airflow meter...i had this code and it was driving me nuts...but found some info...unhooked the mass airflow meter, unscrewed the 2 screws holding it in, pulled it out, looked down in there and saw caked on dust and dirt on the 2 wires that are supposed to be visible....just sprayed some wd-40 down in there till the 2 wires were cleaned off(they also sell a spray MAF cleaner at some parts stores) let it dry, screwed it back on, hooked it up, cleared the po171, but i got a po141 after that and had to change my o2 sensor too, but now runs like a dream no cel.
  • elecjohn58elecjohn58 Posts: 4
    thanks. I'll try your suggestion and hope it fixes my problem.I'll post my results.
  • realwilkesrealwilkes Posts: 3
    i am trying to change my front wheel bearings but am having a [non-permissible content removed] of a time just getting the axle nut cover off(star-shaped thing covering axle nut), was just using a hammer and screwdriver to try to unstake the staked part of the cover, got it up enough but still wont come off, any suggestions?
  • victor13bvictor13b Posts: 3
    i have a toyota echo 2004 with 60.000miles! sometimes the car dont want to start at the moment! yesterday when start the check engine light is oon! and i go to autozone to scan ! the scan said error code p0341! camshaftn sensor ! my answer is i dont know the exact location of that sensor! for check! and what iis the normal sin toms of that sensor when he is bad?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,041
    As you face the engine it's on YOUR right side, stuck into the valve cover.

    You may need to see one on the shelf at Autozone to be able to identify it.

    These "codes" don't really tell you which part is defective, only which SYSTEM is in distress. You could have a bad sensor, or bad wiring.

    You have to remove the sensor, get an OHMETER, and measure the resistance between the two terminals of the sensor.

    cold --between 1630 and 2740 ohms (between 14F and 122F)

    hot -- 2065 -- 3225

    If the ohms are outside these parameters, replace the sensor.

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  • victor13bvictor13b Posts: 3
    ok! is located in the driver side? engine air filter side? if i remove the engiine no go out of time ?
  • victor13bvictor13b Posts: 3
    here a picture! please confirm!
    image

    image
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,041
    I don't know, I've never seen one on an Echo. It should have a little bolt that attaches it to the block.

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  • took car to a garage and they replaced the mass air flow, I don't believe he knew how to test it or clean it, new plugs and cleaned the throttle body. light only stayed off for about 20 miles and real runs bad. the cel is on not flashing. have made an appt. with toyota dealer. don't know what else to try. o2 sensors never coded. no engine miss until about 20 miles out. 90% highway travel. notice reduction of power and followed by engine stumble with light coming on followed by racing engine.
  • Have a 2000 echo that makes noise on the drivers side when i hit 35 to 40 miles an hour. When i push in the clutch the noise goes away. Any one have some ideas.Thanks.
  • Hello,
    This 2003 Echo is actually my first car, so my questions are gonna be newbie-ish:

    1) I just passed the 50,000 mile mark; aside from oil changes every 3,000 miles and some kind of maintenance at 30K...what other routine things should I be doing?

    2) There's a scheduled major maintenance at 60K, is that right? Does anyone know what the entails and how to avoid getting REAMED at the dealer?

    3) My trunk can no longer be opened with the lock (key). I tried looking at the lock assembly...but could not figure out what would need to be lubricated...anyone else seen this?

    4) I have a few chips out of the paint on the hood (less than 1 square centimeter of chips...like 5 small spots)...how much would a paint repair cost and where do you recommend this be done? Do non-dealers have the silver paint from a 2003 echo?

    Thanks!
  • dakedake Posts: 131
    edited September 2010
    No problem and all good questions:

    1 and 2: Technically, recommended oil service on all Toyotas is 5000 miles or 4 months (I do 5k or 6 months on my '01 Echo and '08 Yaris). The dealer and most oil-change places will write down 3 months/3k miles, but that's b/c they are trying to make money. The exceptions to this are if you drive in very dusty/gritty conditions or tow a trailer (which Canadian Echo's are technically approved to do), and then it's good to change the oil sooner.

    As far as "major" maintenance goes, the Echo is very simple. Every 30000 (so 30, 60, 90 etc) miles the only additions to the normal stuff are to replace the engine coolant and replace the spark plugs, both of which can be done at home if you're even slightly mechanically minded.

    Beyond that, the Toyota Scheduled Maintenance Guide only says to "inspect" other things such as Transmission and Brake fluid levels and whatnot. Bear in mind, the "Dealer Recommended Service Guide" has all kinds of other stuff added on b/c once again, they are trying to make money.

    The Echo has a timing chain and not a belt, so there is no guidance for ever replacing that.

    To be completely honest - I've never changed the engine coolant in my Echo. I'm at about 114k, bought it used at 70k 6 years ago and the previous owner had not done the 60k mx, so I'm guessing it hasn't been changed since the 30k mark. I've had bad experiences in the past with "Radiator Flushes". Every car I've ever had it done to, or have a friend who has had it done to has wound up with a coolant leak after the flush and bam - new radiator. My last three cars have never had a flush AND never had a leak and I had them up to 200k miles - coincidence?

    I just make sure the coolant fluid level is good. I live in Houston and I've never had an over-heat issue even rocketing around at 85 on the highways in the summer. Of course, this is just my experience - you have to decide what you're comfortable with.

    3. That's weird about your trunk lock. You're saying it won't even turn? Did it only recently quit working or did you get it like that? If it's the latter, you may be using the valet key. Those are designed to work the ignition and doors but not the trunk. If you bought it that way and it's the only key you have you might try the dealer. Toyota actually has records of keys for vehicles. A friend of mine used to repo for Toyota and they could actually give him a code to know what kind of key to cut. They might be able to make a new one for you. Beyond that you may be stuck unless you have the lock replaced. As long as you can open it from the inside, I guess it's not that big a deal though. If you bought the car from a dealer, I might hassle them for not giving you the regular key - even if that's all they received, you might be able to talk them in to helping you out.

    If it worked before but doesn't any more, you could try some good ol' WD-40. There's also graphite lock lubricant available at most hardware stores, but some don't recommend using that b/c over time it can build up.

    4)Most auto-part stores carry generic paint touch-up bottles. It's like a bottle of nail polish, with a little brush attached to the cap. It may not be exact, but should be close. You can most likely buy the exact Toyota color at your dealer, but the thing is it will be "new" silver and probably won't quite match an "old" paint job which will have faded at least some. Still, for the small rock chips - either one is good enough.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,041
    edited September 2010
    Very good advice you gave, except if you don't mind I'll take issue with draining the coolant. Coolant wears out over time. This is just chemistry. So changing it is a good idea. You don't need to "flush" the radiator, that's true. Just drop the old coolant, add the new.

    Also, you're right to suggest graphite lock lube rather than WD-40. Don't put WD-40 into a lock.

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  • Hi,
    Thanks for the great advice, I appreciate your time.

    Regarding the trunk issue, I have been using my non-valet key...it turns a little bit in the lock, but not enough to do anything (actually I broke a cheap key copy once trying to open the lock)...but before that, yeah, graphite didn't really do much...I think the problem is downstream of the lock mechanism proper.

    Regarding the paint...I still have the nail polish-style paint bottle that I got with the car....would that be sufficient amount to touch up? I'm looking for an invisible effect.

    I'm posting here because I am now officially paranoid about the dealer here....I paid like US$600.00 for my 30K maintenance "check-up" (not to mention getting reamed on tires).

    Love the car, though.
  • dakedake Posts: 131
    Excellent point Mr Shiftright. I've opted to gamble based on past experience but you're right, simply emptying out and replacing - not "flushing" which runs through the system at a higher pressure - shouldn't cause any risk and is probably the better choice. Be careful though if you do go to an auto shop as they will probably recommend a flush, claiming it will be better than just a swap out with new fluid and this is where the possible danger can come in.

    For your trunk lock, that's tough. I'm not sure if the lock is in the same place on yours as on mine but the lock is easily visible inside the trunk lid off to the right. I can operate the little lever mechanism from the inside (that is attached by a bar to the trunk latch itself at the middle) with very light pressure from just my pinky. If it's taking you a lot of force to move the lever from the inside then it makes sense your key is having trouble. Maybe lubing up the lock from that point vs actually inside at the tumblers would help?

    For the paint, "invisible" is a tough goal. The only way to make it truly invisible would involve sanding, priming and painting. The touch ups do a pretty good job though. My wife's Yaris is the Pacific Blue Metallic and the touch up bottle does a pretty good job. There's no hiding it up close, but it looks better than black chips everywhere.

    The key is trying to dab more than brush. Get some on the end of the little brush and just poke that drop into the chip. It will naturally settle out to fill the small divot. If you try and brush it in, you will get far more noticeable brush strokes. Try a couple practice dabs first to get a feel for how the paint reacts - it's typically very thick.

    That's a bummer about your dealer. Some are definitely better than others. They should have given you a break down of exactly what they did during that service. With that try calling other Toyota dealers and seeing if it's about the same everywhere (it seems a bit high to me). Then, if you can show that maybe you got gouged a bit, go straight to Toyota and complain about the dealer - they seem to take those issues pretty serious and maybe you'll at least get some free oil changes or something out of it.
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