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Toyota Echo Maintenance and Repair



  • Hi

    2005 Echo Hatchback.....I love mine too!

    Check Engine light came on. Dealer:

    Cause: scanned for codes has P044 evap vent control curcuit
    inspected system and found pressure control vsv faulty
    (vsv at cannister)

    Correction: requires charcole canister

    $373 parts + $90 labour plus taxes

    My question....what if I don't replace it? What difference will it make? Will it cause any damage to anything else?

    Answer.....check engine light will remain on so check engine will be no good for alerting you to anything else. Poorer fuel efficiency. No damage to anything else.

    So I decided not to replace it.

    And in publicly griping with many others about the petty annoyances of Check Engine lights, I learned that you can buy a code-checking device on sale for only $50. Good to know.

    Anyway, sometime after that I had trouble filling up. (Maybe my first fillup?) On an empty tank, it kept clicking off immediately, as though it was full. And on some attempts, the gas would all gush out. I tried a different pump. Then a different gas station. Then my husband tried it and asked if I used to have a little metal flap (sound familiar?) Yes! I did, now that he mentioned it. We figured it must have broken off and gotten pushed inside, and was blocking the tube.

    The guy at the dealership asked if I had the little metal flap, because some did and some didn't. I was pretty sure I did, but began to have doubts. Maybe I was thinking of my old Tercel?

    Long story, back and forth, different theories, odd approach to the problem had me doing some research while they had my car, and I ran across your post.


    Cause: ....Checked fuel lines to tank
    okay - codes P0441 and P0446 present incorrect purge flow
    and vent control curcuit. Checked previous ro - charcoal canister recommended. Still requires canister. Replaced.

    And I filled up just fine today.

    So I guess that was it. Though I'm wondering where the two new codes came from.... And I'm still sure I had a little metal flap. And shouldn't they KNOW which cars had it and which didn't?!

    I look forward to hearing what happens with yours.

    Good luck!
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,685
    Next time just find one the same year as yours and check it.

    I think they all have flaps?
  • mopar71mopar71 Posts: 31
    Can someone tell me if the foglights on the echo are turned on with a dashboard switch or the headlight switch? also does anyone know where I can get a wiring diagram? Thanks.
  • albusdalbusd Posts: 8
    This may not be exactly related, and you might have already fixed your issue, but I thought I'd throw my 2 cents in on this one -

    I have a 2000 Echo 4-door that around 95k was having a problem exactly like what you describe, a vibration that shakes the vehicle when driving at highway speeds, except my Echo had not had any work done on the tires prior to the vibration issue starting. I drove it like that for maybe 2-3k miles (I don't drive at highway speeds much) until I finally took it in to the local shop to have the tires rotated and balanced. After the work was done, the vibration was gone.

    The car was also pulling pretty badly to the right side, so I thought I needed an alignment, but the shop said there are sometimes tires they call "puller tires" that just don't track straight. After the rotate & balance was done it also helped the pulling problem quite a bit.

    I'd suggest taking it back and just asking them to take a look at it... there shouldn't be any charge for them to try rotating or rebalancing your new tires if you feel they did something wrong. I would hazard a guess that episodes like these are what keeps the local tire shops in business - otherwise we'd all be getting our tires at the big box store - but I suppose you could argue that the same experienced people with the same tools are working at your big box store... with that in mind, if you don't resolve the problem at your Walmart, I'd go straight to a local tire shop.
  • kcdawnkcdawn Posts: 2
    i have a 2000 echo automatic and right now my engine overheats, im not sure why though. so i went to a place and they didnt know why either, so my dad told me to turn the a/c on when it over heats and see if that helps and it does. so now whenever the overheat light starts blinking, i turn the a/c on and after a minute or twoo it goes off and everything is okay, thats problem one. now problem two is that when i turn the a/c on, when i am accelerating the car hesistatees for like a 3-4 seconds than it will be okay. but if i turn it off it will be okay right away :s please someone help its my first car and i love it, but the a/c is costing me gas and i dont know what to do :(
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,685
    Do not continue to drive the car like that or you will destroy the engine.

    With the engine COLD remove the radiator cap and check for coolant. Also, there is a white plastic bottle for coolant on the side of the radiator closest to the resr bumper. If they are empty fill them with coolant.

    Go to the right side of the engine compartment ENGINE OFF> There are two belts. The rear most one is the power steering. The other one that drives the laternator also drives the water pump. See if the belt is really loose. If it is thats why the car is over heating.

    Take the car to a shop. Tow it dont drive it.

    Good luck and tell us what happens or if you have more questions.
  • Now try this, Does the car vibrate when you let off the accelerator?...and does it seem to happen at a certain speed? If no vibration on letting off .. then check on the left side, front end..first. Take the tire off secure the front end on a set of jacks. OK place your rear park brake, place in gear with someone else carefully accellerate not too fast, your watching the drive shaft on that side. If it seems to wobble ... thats your problem( do this on both sides). You probably Hit a curb or something and it bent it enough to throw it into a harmonic wobble at certains speeds. You will brobably feel it again slightly at around 30mph too but not much until you reach higher speed.... you can do it your self on install but your gonna need a new alignment...
  • My 2001 Echo had a trunk leak problem also. My rubber seal was loose in places so I reattached with weather stripping adhesive. I still had a leak but it turned out to be a tiny opening at the bottom center of the back window gasket. I sealed it with clear silicone sealant and it corrected the problem.

  • echofanechofan Posts: 20
    When I bought my 2002 a year ago (70k miles then, 90k now) I noticed a rattling sound when accelerating at low RPM. If I push hard enough to let the auto trans downshift, the sound goes away at the higher RPM.

    I know a certain amount of noise is normal, and otherwise the car runs fine. I checked the valve clearances & they're all OK. I suspect (hope?) it's no big deal, and that I just notice it more than in my 06 scion xB (same engine) because the soundproofing isn't as good.

    But I'm curious whether any others on this forum thought the valve train noise seemed worse on your Echo than on other small 4cyl cars you've driven. Would like to compare it to another Echo, but they're VERY rare around here (Dallas/Fort Worth). Don't know anyone who has one.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,404
    Are you sure it's valve noise? You could have a loose timing chain, or the engine could be "pinging" due to faulty ignition timing. Just for an experiment, see if high test gas cures the problem. A loose timing chain could be detected using a mechanic's stethoscope (cheap to buy at Autozone).


  • echofanechofan Posts: 20
    Thanks for the reply. Yeah, compared to timing-belt cars I've driven, it sounds less "tap-y' and more "rattle-y", if that makes any sense. If it's a loose chain, would that get worse under acceleration (low rpm with throttle open)? Maybe when the variable valve timing switches it gets worse or better?

    Is chain tension something I could check with just the valve cover off? (If so, I missed my chance when I was checking the valve clearances :-(
  • echofanechofan Posts: 20
    And forgot to mention: I think the timing is okay; it seems to be running very smoothly, just with the noise during low-rpm acceleration. I did try higher-octane gas a while back, with no change.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,404
    Timing chain noise usually occurs at very low rpm, when the engine is cold and the chain is not under any stress. The chain is often held taut by a chain tensioner and THIS can often wear out over time. You should be able to locate timing chain noise very easily with a cold running engine and a stethoscope. It'll rattle your brain when you put the probe right over the timing chain area.

    Pinging generally occurs under load--so at lower rpm going up a hill for instance. Pinging can occur even when the engine runs smoothly, and high test gas does not always cure it.

    valve train noise usually gets better as the engine warms up, but worse as the engine goes under load.

    Another similar sound is a leaking exhaust manifold gasket.


  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,685
    Check your valve clearances. If you can change sparkplugs you can do it. (adjusting them is another matter) I wrote a proceedure in this very forum someplace.
  • echofanechofan Posts: 20
    I did check the valve clearances a couple of months ago, and they were all ok. BTW, I read your procedure; thanks for posting it!
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,685

    Must be something other than the valves although it could be the chain/tensioneer.

    Good luck and tell us what you find out!
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