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Toyota Echo Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • mopar71mopar71 Posts: 31
    I would replace both 02 sensors before and after the cat.I have 2 echos 00 and an 03, my 00 has 155k miles.my 03 has 95k,yes these cars have a timing chain not belt.Change the engine oil religusly and trans flushed.I use synthetic oil and use the goodyear gator belt.The engines bog when you turn ac on or heaters? get a better battery.And use the gator belt it is cross cut to provide cooling and better gripping.
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,690
    Have your ECHOs required valve adjustments? If so how much did the dealer charge? What parts have you replaced on your ECHOs? And what other work was necesssary? For instance, I just replaced my batteery after a little over six years. Thanks!
  • mopar71mopar71 Posts: 31
    No, none of the echos required a valve adjustments.
  • maxx124maxx124 Posts: 8
    I am in need of used parts for my echo ,body parts
    would anybody know where own would find
    like windshield washer tank ,inner right front fender
  • pulgopulgo Posts: 400
    My 2001 Echo now has 164k miles and no valve adjustments have been necessary.
  • mopar71mopar71 Posts: 31
    The echo batteries are cheap,I bought a new battery for both my echos.I have also changed the belts,Tires,brake pads,air filters,use synthetic oil and change oil every 5k.All highway driving.
  • rcp21771rcp21771 Posts: 13
    Greetings all! I recently purchased a used 2001 Echo with 85K miles. The car runs great, drives great and gets great gas mileage. I couldnt be happier. I have one question though. When the engine idles, it ticks. It's not severe, but there is a slight ticking noise. A few people have told me that this is common with Toyotas and 4 cylinders in particular. Just curious if anybody has any input on the matter. Thanks all!
  • Mine (2005) has a slightly rough idle when stopped and in gear, but no ticking. Ticking could be low-quality fuel, valve lifter needing adjustment (or sticking), loose bit of metal that vibrates at low idle, lots of things. Poor fuel usually makes a tick at higher speeds or when the engine is under load, so I'd first open the hood and try to isolate the tick. If it seems to be coming from the engine, try a fuel cleaner.

    Jerry
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,690
    At 60k miles there is a valve adjustment check to be performed. Its prolly expensive but i wrote a piece in the regular ECHO forum about how to check them yourself.
  • rcp21771rcp21771 Posts: 13
    I recently had the ATF changed on my 2001 Echo. When the engine is hot and I check the dipstick, the level is right up to the "HOT" mark. However, when I check the flid level when the engine is cold (engine off for 6-8 hours), the fluid level is much higher than the "HOT" mark. Is this normal? I would have thought that the level would be down around the "COOL" mark. Anybody have any thoughts on the matter? Thanks!
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,693
    While I apologize for not being of any assistance, as I have only ever driven manuals, I just thought I would say how gratifying it is to see someone who is still checking their underhood fluid levels periodically. Kudos! :-)

    2013 Civic SI, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (stick)

  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,690
    I dont have a clue either. Sounds freaky! I gotta believe though that since the transmission oil is at the right level when the trans is hot, and thats how the trans runs all the time, you are OK!
  • rodvcrodvc Posts: 5
    Hi,

    I have a 2001 manual Echo with 42k miles on the clock. I live in Long Island , NY & recently I have noticed that when I press & depress on the clutch pedal there is a 'sqeaking' noise.

    A friend has told me that it may be the 'clutch release cylinder' & that the piston may need 'greasing'. I wondered if anyone had any thoughts on this ?

    Thanks.

    Rod
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,690
    No the release cylinder has no requirements to be greased. That aint it. It could be the release bearing. It could also be the clutch itself where the release bearing contacts. Drive it till it dont drive no more.
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Posts: 1,668
    If it is an internal squeak, just lube the pivot points of the pedal under the dash, and put some lithium grease on the cylinder actuator rod. It is shiny metal rod from the pedal that goes into a rubber gasket before going through the firewall into the engine compartment.
  • rodvcrodvc Posts: 5
    Thanks. I mentioned the clutch release cylinder as I have a copy of the Echo manual ( from e bay ) & it states that the piston attached to the push rod inside in the rubber boot needs to be greased.
    It appears to be a case of disconnecting the clutch line & then undoing the release cylinder bolts.
    I am not mechanically savvy & just wanted to make sure I had covered all my options .
    As suggested , I will lubricate the clutch inside the car & hope that that is it.
    Thanks for your help & other comments greatfully received.
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,690
    Tell us what happens!
  • rjgeerjgee Posts: 27
    Proper testing is to have the engine on, and warmed up to operating temperature, and to have shifted through the gears. If the engine isn't up to normal temp, dipstick reading can be towards the 'cool' reading... but the key is having the engine on.
  • brian50brian50 Posts: 2
    Hi all. My mother has a 2004 Echo hatch back. Twice in the past year she has been driving down a hwy and has in her words "the passenger side front tire locks up for several seconds and then goes away". I've tried to get a more informative answer from her,but she finds it very unnerving when it happens as she was in very bad accident which took the lives of my sister and grandfather. All I can tell you is it is either a grinding or screeching sound and causes some pulling in the steering wheel. The dealership has looked at it after both incidents and could find nothing wrong. Needless to say I feel very bad about the whole thing as I know she depends on her car for her freedom and the fact that I talked her in to buying it thinking it was safe and reliable. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,690
    I would suspect either the wheel bearings or the brake caliper pistons seizeing.. Possibly a stone is getting in the brake works somehow. How many miles on the car? Also...you need to check out Mom. What does she mean the wheel locks up? If it "locked up" there would be violent loss of control and the tire woud be heavily scored. Also I doubt it would just go away. I would remove the wheel myself and check for scoreing on the disc, the wheel not turning freely, the pads shot. Something is happening but I doubt the wheel is locking up.
    Tell us what happens!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,116
    I'd check for loose caliper bolts or sticking caliper slides.

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  • maxx124maxx124 Posts: 8
    how about front wheel bearings, mine went on the drivers side, sounded like it was going to lock up,, not cheap to replace
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,116
    I guess if they were really whacked out, and could make the rotor wobble....??

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  • mpantusampantusa Posts: 5
    I have a 2000 Toyota Echo and one day i went out there and my car wouldn't start. So I went out and bought a new battery,nothing. My headlights will come on but no other electric item will come on in my car. I was told its either my starter that went out or some electric problem. I dont want to take it to a shop right yet w/o knowing any idea. So if any help i appreciate it.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,116
    Do you get dashboard indicator/warning lights when you turn the key on?

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  • mpantusampantusa Posts: 5
    no, no radio or anything other than headlights.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,116
    Okay next test...keep the headlights on and crank the key. Do the headlights dim or stay the same?

    If they stay the same, I'm wondering if you have some sort of fusible link coming off the battery, prior to the fuse box.

    If they dim considerably, then the new battery is either not charged or you have poor cable connections.

    By all means test your cable connections and also where the ground cable connects to the engine or frame.

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  • brian50brian50 Posts: 2
    Hi,when I spoke to my mom I really couldn't get a solid answer out of her as she was so upset when it happened. Her Echo has about 4800 miles on it. I don't think it's a bearing as I'm sure it would have dissintergrated by now and the tire would have fallen off. I agree that she would have spun out of control if her tire had locked up. So I'm guessing it was a small rock or possibly a loose rivet from the brake pad. I'm not sure about the brake caliper as the first time it happened it was in a gradual curve and the second time it was on a straight away. I would think if the caliper was sticking that it wouldn't have happened when she was going straight. I'll try and have a look at the rotor but do you think there would be much scoring if it had been a rock? Thanx,B.
  • mpantusampantusa Posts: 5
    yes they stay the same they dont dim
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,116
    So if you're getting no dash lights whatsoever then no current to the key and nothing to the fuse box either....hmmmm....seems to me if it were just a neutral safety switch in the transmission or a brake safety switch that's defective you'd still get dash lights when you switched to the "ON" position with the key as well as various buzzers and chimes...

    I guess you'll have to ask Toyota if there is some fusible link between the battery and the fuse box.

    I'm kinda lost without a wiring diagram.

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