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Jeep Grand Cherokee Rotors brakes

ktrockiktrocki Posts: 1
edited March 9 in Jeep
I am the owner of a 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee that is having continuing problems with the rotors and brakes. My Jeep has less than 52,000 miles. This is the 4th time I've had the rotors replaced (the last time was just this past July 2001). I am extremely frustrated and don't seem to be getting very good results from either my dealer or Chrysler. Does anyone else out there have this issue? Any suggestions?? Thanks! ~Kristine

Comments

  • my parents own a 2001 grand cherokee and had the rotors replace once already four months after purchase. They told us all the cherokee are messed up like that, try to not brake too hard or see if u can get some money out of htis defect.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,678
    You might have to invest in custom rotors. Are you doing a lot of towing? Sounds like the rotors are getting too hot.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • I have a 2000 Grand Cherokee Laredo 6cyl/auto/select and had to replace all four rotors at 16,000 miles. The new rotors had to be ground at 28,000 miles. At 51 years old I can say that I've never had to touch the brakes on any other vehicle before 60,000 miles. This is an obvious design flaw that D-C doesn't acknowledge. I had similar problems with my 1997 JGCL. I won't make this mistake again.

    jwnihill
  • it has 124,000 miles on it and I have only done the front brakes twice. So maybe they have changed the brake system since 94 or some people 2 foot the pedals.
  • Fellow owners - Just wanted to relate my experience this week. Have a '01 GJC Ltd with 16k and noticed about 3k ago a slight pulsation in the brakes. This is my 2nd JGC (had '95 Laredo - no problems at 60k). Anyway, during routine maintenance mentioned this to the service rep, ask him to look at it and told him that I know it is a problem - a big one as everyone on the Internet boards are talking about it.

    They checked it out and lo and behold they were warped. Indicated that for purposes of "good will" they would split the cost of putting new pads (some new fix) on and turning the rotors. I have already resolved myself to the fact that at rotor replacement time I will be purchasing something other than OEM in the marketplace. Long story short, they ended up eating the whole cost.

    Now the clincher - today I was at the car wash just "jawing" with some guys waiting to get our cars. A gentlemen overheard our conversation on "brakes", said he was a service manager for a dealership (GM and Jeep) and said "Jeep doesn't have a solution for their rotor problem." Told him that all they have to do is spend a few more $$'s in the procurement area and this would not be a problem. So my message is very simple:

    Hey Management (automotive company's)...quit beating up your suppliers for constant price reductions...it shows up in the performance (or lack thereof) of your product in the marketplace. Word to the wise - if you don't listen to some of this, we WILL take our business elsewhere (can you say imports?).

    Good luck all - Wheel
  • First of all I am a Jeep owner and have worked in the service dept. for D/C for many years. My 95 Kee has just at 110,000 miles and have only replaced the front brake pads 1 time (done at 107,000 miles). I do go off road and tow my boat to the river.
    D/C does have a tech. bulliten on the front brake rotors for GRAND CHEROKEE and DODGE DURANGO and D/C also has an information bulliten relating to front brakes that should have been given to anyone complaining about brake wear or noises.
    I would estimate that less than 5% of all Grand Cherokee and Durango owners have had a problem.
    The most common cause of premature wear and warpage of the front rotors are by people that drive with 2 feet. This condition can usually be detected by the color of the rotors.
    The average jeep/durango driver gets between 20,000 and 30,000 miles on the front brakes and more for the rear.
    I have never seen anone have the problems that KTROCKI is having withot the indication of driving with 2 feet or driving to fast and breaking to hard (last minute breaking).
    For fs_wheel - there should have been no discussion with your brakes - the dealer should have offered to cover the repair from the start under "goodwill" even though the brake pads have only a 12/12 warranty.
    Suggestion - don't even rest your "other" foot on the brake pedal, don't ride your brake to a stop and allow ample time to stop in traffic and if you have anti lock brakes - DON'T PUMP THE BRAKES LIKE YOUR DAD TAUGHT YOU TO DO WITH HIS OLDER CAR!
    There is a toll free number in the back of your owners manual for custome service. Call them and make an appointment with the dealer when the dealer service rep. is going to be there.
  • sebring95sebring95 Posts: 3,233
    So you think 20K-30K is acceptable for front pads/rotors? I guess that's how DC gets away with, low standards.

    My Sebring needed new rotors every 15K-20K miles (6 months max). My '01 Cherokee has needed rotor work from around 20K miles. The only way I fixed it on the Sebring was Brembo's. I'm going to have the dealer turn the Cherokee this time (free), and next time I'm buying Powerstop rotors/pads. I drive these the same as my Toyotas, which get 80K-100K out of pads and true the rotors when replacing pads. It's called quality parts, which should be able to handle more than one or two panic stops before they fry.

    But I've learned to live with it as other than that, I've had good luck with DC products and really like my Jeep & Ram. I think it's wrong and typical to blame rotor problems on the drivers. I drive aggresive, but the fact remains that the quality parts hold-up just fine under those circumstances where the factory DC parts don't. My '01 Ram 2500 came with the upgraded Dodge system and it has over 50K on it with no brake problems, over 1/2 pad remaining, and well over 40K of those miles had 8000-13,000# behind it. Besides that it'll put you through the windshield if you have to mash the pedal. So Dodge apparently knows how to build a proper braking system.
  • wlbrown9wlbrown9 Posts: 843
    '99 Grand Cherokee, rotors warped at 5k miles. Again at 20,000 miles. 1st replaced under warranty. Dealer wanted $100 to turn rotors on second one. Traded with $2500 rebate on like '00 Grand Cherokee. Rotors warped at 15k miles. Dealer refused to listen to possibility of problem with design...no 2 foot driver in this family. Replaced them with after market rotors for about $100. Last f---ing D/C product I will probably purchase..

    BTW, noticed the pallet out behind the Jeep shop with probably 40 sets of dead rotors. Nope, not a problem with them. Also, why is there alway brake dust ALL over the front wheels? My Trooper does not have that.
  • sebring95sebring95 Posts: 3,233
    The real problem is not driving with two feet, it's panic stops. These rotors can only handle two or three panic stops before they warp. Granted, braking hard alot will take a toll as well. I can't say I won't buy a DC product again because of it, but it's aggravating. I just go into it planning to upgrade to better rotors. Honestly though, I doubt those $100 aftermarket rotors will do much better. All the really good ones I've found are closer to $100 each. I figure if I'm going to pay to upgrade, I'm going to get the best I can so I don't have to deal with it again.
  • First of all I didn't say that 20,000 to 30,000 miles for a set of front brakes is acceptable, however, since the federal govt. has mandated that asbestos can't be used in the pad material the longevity has dropped substantially.
    I also think that you should look at the average mileage for a set of front pads for General Motors and Ford. You'll see that that's not out of line with the rest.
    As for the Sebring brakes only good for two or three panic stops - you are flat wrong! First if this was the case the bureau of auto repair and the NTSB would have mandated a recall. Secondly, if this was true there would be articles all over the place in every .com, newspaper, trade magazine and periodical. This is especially true here in Las Vegas where almost no one knows how to drive or stop.
    Also you can't compare the brakes on a 2500 to a Sebring - different systems plain and simple - the demands are different.
    I also feel that if there was a real problem that Consumers Report would be jumping all over D/C, if you really believe them, since they have a hardon for D/C.
    Now for wlbrown9 - Once again there should not have been any discussion at 15,000 miles. the dealer should have replaced them on "goodwill".
    Please don't think that I'm pointing and shaking a wrench at any one and saying that "Its your fault" and that "You're a bad driver" I only made suggestions and indicated what could be the cause. I'm speaking from many years of experience as an ASE Ceritfied Brake Tech..
    Now here is another suggestion - there are aftermarket pads and rotors available that have proven exellent results. These are from Autospecialty. they are called Power stop extreme Performance 911 for severe driving conditions. They are used on police cars, ambulances and etc. with great results. Here in Las Vegas the taxi cab authority "cop" cars also use them.
    They are available at most parts stores or can be ordered.
    Here in Las Vegas they are available at Meyers Auto parts on Boulder Highway - go in and see Jay the manager. The prices are very reasonable.
    Lastly - I didn't set out to point at anyone or p--- them off I just speak from experience!
    Anytime one has a problem with their vehicle, while it is still in the factory warranty or feels that there is a "flaw" call the consumers hotline directly. The phone # is in the owners manual. They will listen to and respond to reasonable calls.
  • sebring95sebring95 Posts: 3,233
    I think you took that a little too personal. Wasn't trying to get your dander up. I'm quite familiar with DC as my grandfather worked for Dodge 25 years, retiring as a regional service rep two years ago. My point on the Ram was that half way through the '01 year they upgraded the braking systems and I've had no problems. My prior 2500 needed brakes/rotors around 20K.

    In my Jeeps case I noticed the first rotor vibration right after I had a severe stop from 70+mph. Car spun out in front of me and I came to a stop at threshold braking. I then drove a short distance to the next exit and had severe rotor vibration and poor stopping power. After they cooled, the vibration was only slight and has remained since. However, if I do any high speed braking that causes them to really heat-up, I get the severe vibrating. When I talked to the service manager, he said DC told them "there isn't a fix on the rotors" and "panic stops are the main cause for premature warpage". Anyone doing alot of hard stops is going to eventually have the same results. I don't think NTSB would get involved as rotors are considered such a routine item anymore. Now if they all failed at 5K like a previous poster then quite possibly.

    I don't think GM and Ford are any better either. I think they all use generally cheap rotors. Figure a good set would run them twice as much so what do you think they are going to use? After my gramps retired, he bought a GM and it needs rotors now and he's got 50K. Not bad, but I still think you should be able to make it to the 60K service before touching the pads and rotors.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,678
    I think many domestics are simply under-engineered for brakes, especially the heavier cars/SUVS. They seem fine for "everyday" driving but the minute you stress them, they can't seem to take it.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • brorjacebrorjace Posts: 588
    Nigel, you might be right but what you said struck me as awful funny.

    I used to be in the brakes business and our warehouse was a neat place to explore because they had imported Textar and all sorts of brakes for old Jaguars, Austin Healeys, Porsches, etc ...

    We marvelled at how impossibly tiny many of the foreign brake pads were ... even on performance cars while all the American cars (especially the Chryslers) used mammoth pads. It's funny how that doesn't tell the whole story.

    --- Bror Jace
  • It's been a few days since I posted and I see we have some good content going. Just wanted to add the following observation. I have 60k on my '99 Ford Expedition - no vibes, no squeal, no problems with the brakes.

    I sold equipment into the "big 3" and tier I/II suppliers. Every year getting beat up on price - lower and lower - it has to start showing somewhere: quality. Like some of you I will replace the rotors next time with good aftermarket. Maybe another couple hundred out of my pocket, but I would have been willing to do that up front and that is what the manufacturer's should consider. But I forgot, it's a numbers game.
  • wlbrown9wlbrown9 Posts: 843
    Yep. The goodwill replacement, esp since I had documentation of problems with the '99. I guess they don't care about additional business. I had only spent over $61,000 (MSRP) with the dealership in about 16 months. Let D/C know what I thought on the satisfaction survey. If I decide or need to have any more dealing with Jeep, there is a newer dealership that has opened recently that is closer and more convenient.

    Also, my wife drives it, but I have not noticed her riding the brakes, two footing it or excessive panic stops. Hell, if you can't use the brakes, why put them on at all :-).

    The $100 after market rotors from Autozone have a 24 mo/24,000 warranty. I'll probably get out of this one before the 36,000 warranty runs out.

    BTW, I did send customer service at D/C a e-mail noting dissatisfaction and wanting a rejection of my request for repairs in writing (just in case a recall comes out later) but have not gotten anything from that either. No wonder their sales are down even with the incentives/low financing. I'm also sure that the several thousand reduction in MSRP for the Grand Cherokee for 2002 models and dropped the value of 99-01 models somewhat. Thanks again D/C.
  • smgillessmgilles Posts: 252
    what is the point of turning a warped rotor? It is just going to go back like it was in the first place. By some good after market rotors, takes 30 minutes a side to put on and can be purchased for 50-100 bucks each. Saves you from getting bent over at the dealer.
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Posts: 10,914
    Let's share your experience with a wider audience in our more general topic on brakes.

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