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Saab 9-3 Sedan

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Comments

  • I actually experienced the exact same problem on my 2006 9-3 Aero! it's a six speed and one day about two months ago i put it in reverse to back out of a parking spot and it popped right off. It basically took 15-20 minutes to put it securely in place along with the small spring that is compressed below it. i didn't have a mechanice look at it, and I at first thought i had to rotate the knob in a screwing motion, but that didn't work and seemed to strip the inside of the shift knob's hole. Finally i just used all my strength to push it down in place. it is slightly off center to the right by a hair, but it drives me crazy.

    On a side note, anyone have any issues with their moonroof deciding to not close after shutting about 2/3rds the way, then reversing out again? That's happened to me 3-4 times.
  • I had this same problem with my 05 9-3 Arc. The knob would just pop off when shifting in to reverse, other times while driving forward. I was able to reposition it and then slap it down in to place again (including while driving).
    Eventually, the car came due for a scheduled maintenance check. The dealer fixed it free of charge with some glue. I don't remember if it was under warranty or if it was a known issue they were fixing (recall?).
    I never had any problems with the moon roof, but I usually just pop it up to vent, I almost never slide it back. Sorry I can't help you there.
  • my climate control fan comes on after turning off the engine and this has previously caused the battery to die. the fan will also cut off and on . Not sure if this is a bad heater ac controller ? please advise.
  • Now at 35K miles- love the car on many long road trips....driver side window began acting up....auto close feature keeps rolling window down about 3 inches from top.....anyone out there having/had same problem?
  • Has anyone else had a problem with the six cd shuttle jamming on their SAAB 9-3. Has anyone had any success removing it themselves? If so how did you do it. I know that bringing it to the dealer, it will cost a fortune to fix. Bummer, my car has 54K miles on it. so near and yet so far.
  • Yes, mine has jammed.

    I did need the dealer; however, I was still under warranty. I would not suggest saving a couple of dollars, and risking more.

    Good luck
  • I have just started with this exact problem. Will take it in this week. There is a little formula: auto down, then auto up, immediately stop, then continue up. :) It works sometimes.
    Let me know if you get your fixed and how.
  • My dealership offered me an extended warranty on my 2005 9-3 Arc (stick shift) through an outside company. For $1700 (or 24k miles) over 2 years, or $2100 (or 36k miles) over three years, the plan covers all mechanical and electrical components that are not considered wear and tear at any licensed facility. For example, it will cover the mechanics of the brake system, but not the pads or rotors. It also covers wiring harnesses, power equipment, audio systems (including CD changers), etc.
    My car currently has close to 56k and so far has not given me any issues other than the battery quitting after 1.5 years. However, when I brought it in for an oil change and to replace a blown headlight bulb this weekend, the mechanic told me the wiring harness that includes the headlight is corroding and will need to be replaced soon. So, trouble may be lurking on the horizon.
    My obvious question is, is the plan worth laying out this kind of money and hoping I can recoup it?
  • There is a caveat. I bought such a warranty, and then brought my car in and was told there was an engine leak that would cost $2100 to fix. Since the leak "had to have been there for a while", the insurance would not cover it.

    On the other hand, the 6 cd carousel in my saab went out at 54K, the dealer wants $1200 to replace. My mechanic found a used replacement out of a low mileage car that had been in a collision, he is doing the replacement for about $500 including the part.

    The biggest problem with extended warranties through outside companies is when they view something as being either "normal wear and tear" or a "pre existing condition".
  • Does anyone have any experience with installing an aftermarket replacement radio/cd/iPod in a Saab 9-3 linear?

    My dealer wanted $1200 to fix my busted cd player, i bought a replacement on eBay and had my mechanic put it in, no problem, cost me about $375 altogether. However, for a few dollars more, one can buy a very nice aftermarket radio.

    My mechanic tells me that the 6 CD in-dash units are unreliable because of their construction and do not last, next time it happens i want to go aftermarket.

    If anyone has done this, what is the experience, especially with the dash and connection to the speakers? Any suggested brands? I would probably have the radio store do the installation.
  • I have had the same issue on my 07 9-3 Aero. I think it's to do with the sensor that detects something blocking the window (ie like a hand).

    I had luck with 2 methods of clearing this - one was just to lock the car using the remote, and then auto open the windows using the remote too. The window rolled up fine from then on. The other time I actually held the window top with my hand as it tried to roll up, until the sensor wound the window down, then it worked fine.

    Will be getting the dealer to check it at next service for sure.
  • Hi, this is my first time in. I bought a 2007 saab brand new and start having problems since the 10k miles, the car will turn to the sides by itself when braking, burn low beams 3 times, rack and pinion replace at 14k miles, front sway bar problem at 22k miles, the car has been to the dealer more than 8 times so far. last time the car was two hole month at the dealer. while there the car water pump broke the engine had no compression and the engine gasket burned, they had to take apart the whole engine and repair it at only 25k miles. when they return me the car they told me that the rear brake pads will need replacement. I said ok that's it, there is no way that the rear pads had gone before the front one. I'm a Mechanical Engineer and I knew something was not right i told them to check the calipers since the rear rotor had some indentation marks and the pads had about 1/4" of an inch left, they said that the Saab's rear brake need replacement before the front ones, i disagree, they refuse to inspect the car unless i paid for the replacement of the pads ( $400), I told them that in order to insect the calipers the replacement of the pads weren't necessary, so i did it my self. took the camera with me and replace the pads, while doing so i notice that the R/R side pads were fine but the caliper cylinder had rust on the bottom half, also the pad push by the piston was unevenly wear, what that was telling me is that the piston is not entirely at contact with the pad and some how is getting stuck, when i was replacing the R/L I notice that the inner pad was all gone at a point that is was damaging the inner side of the rotor but the outside one had on it like 3/8th of an inch left, the piston from the caliper was not returning back after braking, it's keeping pressure on that side and that's why it was so low. I went to the dealer with all my pictures hidden on my folder and sat down with the mechanics manager and had a very heavy discussion at a point that he was saying that his mechanics assures him that they check the brakes and they seem in perfect operation and the pads will need to be replace under maintenance and not under warranty. then i show him the photos, he start gagging and took the pictures to show them to his boss. after 20 minutes he never came back, they send the secretary from the service department to handle my case, they are taking the car this Monday to replace both calipers and shave the rotors. since i dont trust this f&^%, i stamp both calipers with a steel stamp just in case they try to fool me. The problem with saabs rear caliper is that they are weak, the single cylinder does not apply the pressure over the pads evenly, whenever you have uneven pad wear there is problem with the calipers that is text book mechanics 101. So if i were you i will inspect those calipers my self. front rotors are bigger than rear ones for a reason they take at least 70% of the car momentum on front, besides you drive forward not backwards. By the way Saab sucks is the worst car ever and the mechanics are a bunch of thieves
  • nbondnbond Posts: 6
    I have an 07 Saab 9-3 2.0t (manual) that I bought new and my rear pads were toast at 25,000 miles as well. I had the rotors refinished by a local mechanic and he replaced the pads with something from NAPA. I now have 70,000 miles on it and have not had to replace the rear pads since. My front pads have never had to be replaced. I have had no other problems with my car and I drive it pretty hard. It sounds like you got a lemon. I am curious if you have the Aero or the 2.0t.
  • koltonbkoltonb Posts: 1
    edited August 2011
    I have a 2004 Saab 9-3 2.0t and i ordered and HID kit for the lighting...... The regular H7 bulb doesnt fit with the Xentec kit that i got.... What size bulb fits properly???? Anything helps people... PLEASE HELP!!!!
  • Does anyone know what aftermarket Navigation and satellite ready radio works with the 2006 Saab 9-3 2.0T; convertible.
    Please let me know. Richard
  • Hey all,

    I'm buying new tires for my '03 9-3 Linear, and I'm getting mixed messages from Tire Rack vs. the dealer vs. the manual. Can you please help me sort through this?

    I currently have summer and winter tires. The winter tires are 205 55 r16 m+s, and I want to keep these wheels and switch to all season tires.
    - Tire Rack's website says to go to 215/55
    - Tire Rack's tech person says to go to 225/50, with extra load rating (94 or higher)
    - Saab dealer says to stick with 205/55, and that extra load rating doesn't matter since I don't drive over 100mph
    - Saab manual says the following for 16" wheels: Summer @ 215/55 R16 93 H, and Winter at 205/55 R16 91 Q M+S …or…205/55 R16 93 Q M+S

    Any thoughts from you guys on clearing this mess up? Depending on what size I go for, I either have great selection (if I do 215/55) or pretty poor selection (if I go 205/55).

    Thanks
    Dave
  • I have a set of 17" wheels from my 9-3 that I don't need anymore (I switched from winter and summer tires to all-seasons).

    Where is the best place to sell these guys? I could do a craigslist post, but wondering if there are standard ways that I could offload them - like back to the dealer, or to a wheel place, etc?

    Thanks!
    D
  • Hi
    Hoping someone can steer me int he right direction. I just recently pulled the 17" rims and tires off my Saab 9-3 because the ride was horrible!
    I went with a 15' rim and got a great private sale deal on them. The rims and tires came off of a Saab. The tires size is 205/55/r15. Now previously riding on a 17" this 15" is a whole lot better feel, but not quite the "luxury" feel. Should I go to a 205/65/r15? Or do you think the crappy ride could be a suspension, shocks thing? I feel every bump in the road and my car seems to hit them hard rather than float softly over them.
    I apologize if I am not using the correct terminology for things but I am not a mechanic. : )
    Any suggestions?
    L.
  • Headlight question:
    I dread driving at night with my low beams. It is like I don't even have the lights on! After washing my car I noticed the headlamp covers are getting old and starting to yellow. Could this cause a dim low beam? I was reading up on Halogen verses Xenon to see if I needed a brighter bulb. Arrrghhh, I need guidance on this. I also looked up the cost of headlamp assembly's on Ebay and new they go for 260.00 each. I would prefer to go the cheaper route right now. Is driving with my high beams on constantly an option? : )
    Any suggestions?
    L.
  • Over time the plastic covering over the headlamps can become foggy (especially true of cars that spend a lot of time outside because of the harsh sun exposure). This cloudiness can absolutely affect your low beam performance (please dont drive with your high beams on :) ). You definitely shouldn't buy new headlight assemblies. There are products that buff the damaged top layer off. I believe one is made by a brand called Mothers. The basic idea is that you attach the included pad up to an electric drill and use the included substance (so you need to borrow a drill if you don't have one). I've never used the product but it seems like the real deal (I think I've seen it reviewed in a car magazine). Try reading some reviews online. One other thing I remember looking into when I had my 9-3 was aftermarket headlamps with stronger beams. I would definitely not recommend trying to replace them yourself (I had a European mechanic who could hardly figure out how to replace the driver side headlamp). Headlamps also get dangerously hot. I believe some headlamp warranties are voided if you touch certain parts too. I would talk to a mechanic to figure out your options.
  • New to Saab, have been reading about this vehicle for last 8 hours, wasted my holiday but its about time i ask experts.

    I am not a tech* guy, don't know anything about vehicles and mostly one of those who will always say YES to mechanics on any repair :)

    I am from Edmonton, Canada and planning to buy a 2004 9-3 2.0T, vehicle has 220K kilometer (137K miles), and the deal i am getting is $4000 and on top of that i have to buy new set of tires that may cost me another $500-600.

    So overall cost will be $4500-4600, do you think its a good deal, how much will be the maintenance cost moving forward? Is it worth it? Also i am planning to get the vehicle inspection report + carproof before the purchase.

    Would really appreciate if you can point me in right direction?

    Thanks,
    Sam
  • docbuzzdocbuzz Posts: 1
    Considering buying a 1999 93 from a guy I know. The car has 115,000 miles. He bought the car a couple of years ago from a neighbor who had bought the car new in California. The car appears to be in excellent shape and has had no mechanical problems other than needing a new fuel pump last summer. The car has run great ever since. Just trying to make sure I'm not buying a future headache. Your comments would be appreciated.
  • siciliasicilia Posts: 5
    $3500 seems way high esp for a 13 year old car with 115k miles.....older Saabs can be hard to work on too. Just about anything you have done will set you back north of $400.

    I'd ask for all maintenance records first and perhaps even look into an after-market warranty program. Otherwise buy something newer.
  • swedlanderswedlander Posts: 6
    Obviously $260 is ridiculous to spend. The headlight bodies should be ok, if the refelector surface is not totally dull or cheome plating has gone to the wind.

    You CAN buy Halogen XENON for less than $10 a pair for low beam on eBAY,

    OR,

    Buy a HID replacement kit, consuming only 35 watts per bulb, and giving almost twice the light than that of a 55w halogen, the kit will need wiring of course but not a big deal for a little handy Saab owner.

    The original factory HID units are $200/300 a pair while these Chinese cheapies[not bad...for the price], are down to $50 a pair.
    Make sureu choose 5000 K type light that is not too much bluish, 10,000k are very blue and look bad as well as poor in illumination.

    good luck !
  • swedlanderswedlander Posts: 6
    bought a 2001/93, no owners manual. Like to know what grade of oil it needs for engine, and if it has tobe synthetic..?
    And what type of Power steering oil should be used..?

    Thnx

    S'lander
  • swedlanderswedlander Posts: 6
    I just got the engine light on after the purchase of the 2001/9-3.
    Autozone checked the codes:
    P1334
    P1312

    Does anyone know what they mean and how to find what do they imply.../,and how to address the problem/s..?

    Thnx
  • goodstargoodstar Posts: 27
    Check out www. thesaabsite.com you can find answers to these questions and much more. Great place for Saab tech information and parts.
  • swedlanderswedlander Posts: 6
    Thnx I appreciate it.

    I ordered a repair/service manual, and learn from that the codes relate to wires either short or broken to ignition coils....but then car starts and runs fine.

    The modern day automation for diagnostics and solutions and all other problems...
  • marinjnsnmarinjnsn Posts: 1
    edited August 2012
    Hello! My name is Marin. I'm a Senior College student. I'm looking to buy a used car and came across a 2007 Saab 9-3 2.0T. I love the car, have test driven it, and my insurance would be cheaper. My only drawback is that since I'm a college student I'm worried maintenance will be too expensive. Can anyone give me advice on whether I should buy this car or not? It's going for $8990, clean title, very well taken care of, and has 85,700 miles on it. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!!
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