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Dodge Sprinter

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Comments

  • kenbakerkenbaker Posts: 239
    The roof unit is run from the engine mounted compressor... a second compressor at that (one for front, one for roof unit). If you want 120V. A/C, then you need a roof mounted RV-style unit instead of the stock Sprinter Roof -mount A/C unit.

    KenB :shades:
  • kenbakerkenbaker Posts: 239
    All CAPS not so good... yes shouting is implied, but that is not a bad as the intermittent lower-case things (like "I") where people hit shift and the general improvement when people use proper case and proper sentence structure.

    KenB :shades:
  • kenbakerkenbaker Posts: 239
    ASSYST is the correct count down to change, not a hard-and-fast 10,000.

    Dealer price is way high and is not necessary if you have accurate records that your vehicle was maintained per specs.

    Remember that fully synthetic oil, that meets the applicable service levels (MB or DC criteria), are required in order for the ASSYST system to be reliable. Other oils will void the warranty.

    My dealership also continues to send out reminders for 3,000 mile service intervals even though the Sprinter is on 10,000 mile levels. My first (only) oil change so far was at the dealership, for free due to other service department hassles on early warranty work, and the engine was not filled properly (low after only 1,000 more miles).

    I topped it off with the proper MOBIL-1 (while hot) and it has not dropped any more in about 5,000 more miles. Proof that they did not completely fill the oil. I suspect that they did not add oil for the filter housing, and of course they did not check after running the engine (oil pressure stabilized).

    From now on I will be doing my own oil changes on schedule. My dealership will do an oil change even when the ONE Sprinter Tech. is gone, but everything else is on hold... but the result was NOT good.

    Aways check your OWN oil level after someone changes your oil!!!

    KenB :shades:
  • kenbakerkenbaker Posts: 239
    Dodge is not making any friends, are they? D-C needs to get their act together before they lose more market share for vans... I know that there ARE Dodge and D-C reps on this forum. Please let D-C MGMT know what we think.

    Thanks,
    KenB
  • kenbakerkenbaker Posts: 239
    In case you don't see it said elsewhere, you could install a "squatting System" like limos and handicap vans use.

    KenB :surprise:
  • kenbakerkenbaker Posts: 239
    My 2004 owners manual does tell me what to use, in two different places in at least two types of language: MB spec and by the name Mobil 1 0/w40. Others are also allowed, but I can't remember all of the specs/numbers. It does not require diesel engine oil due to the tight specs and low blow-by products.

    Synthetic is considered top-shelf due to its low volatility and resistance to all types of breakdown. Therefore, any brand of engine oil (diesel or non-diesel) that meets the latest API/ASTM specs, is fully synthetic, and meets the viscosity (or viscosity range) specs for the temperatures you will be driving in will meet the required specs (even with ASSYST).

    Without ASSYST, you could rely on the dino oils that meet the other requires that are listed above (ltest API cert., correct visc. for temp range).

    KenB :shades:
  • kx200kx200 Posts: 3
    I think some place it says the 10,000 mile oil changes are when you are using ulsd fuel. Higher sulfur fuel will shorten that some. Any time you bring up an oil topic on any forum it will go on for a long time. 2 stroke dirt bike oil forums will suck you in like a black hole. 24/1 32/1 40/1 50/1 let alone all the brands available. My son’s 06 VW TDI has to use 505.01 oil if not they make it sound like they will void your warranty. If you are worried send an oil sample off and get it tested.
  • Does anyone know where I can get a copy of, or download, the owners manual for a 2003?
  • earlwearlw Posts: 8
    No Dodge is not making any friends especially with RV's that are built on the Sprinter Van. Winnebago, Airstream, Roadtrek,and a whole long list of RV builders are using the Sprinter. One of the big selling points is the economy. Where is the economy when the dealers charge $230.00 for a oil change. I say $230.00 because this is what a dealer in Texas charged and what a dealer in Virginia said he would charge. I used to have a Freightliner truck with a Caterpiller engine in it. It would cost between $180.00 and $230.00 for a oil change. This was 30 quarts of oil, oil filter and two fuel filters. The little Sprinter engine costs as much to service as my big Cat engine. Go figure. Also the word will spread around with RV type people about the inconvenice of a problem while traveling and being forced to go to a authorized Sprinter dealer for a repair. Most Dodge dealers have mechanics or techinicans that could could take care of most of our problems while traveling. I don't understand having to find a Authorized Sprinter dealer hours away when I am in a town that has a Dodge dealer. I travel for weeks at a time living in the class B motorhome. When I had a problem the Sprinter dealer was hours away and had a back log of 3 days. This cuts into my travel time and fun of enjoying the Sprinter Van. Maybe D-C MGMT will see this forum and get some good ideas.
  • punter1punter1 Posts: 50
    Is it difficult to do your own oil change?
    .
    I would think it would be easy since you probably do not need to raise the vehicle.
    .
  • dose anyone know when the new models will hit the dealerships?
    i have to store mine away from my home address because it is over 96" high. that sure is a big pain. it is my personal transportation. i know i will take a big hit trading a 2006 hightop for a 2007 standard but there is not much else i can do. it would be worst to trade for another 2006 low top. if i turn it into a camper,toilet, stove, bed and etc. i can keep it in the rear yard, but that requires installing a driveway and getting permits etc. i will have to price it out and see.
  • I'm converting my 2002 cargo Sprinter into a mini-RV. I was considering removing the black plywood floor before installing padding and carpet in order to gain a little more headroom. Does anyone know if the floor has a lot of uneven ridges, or is it pretty smooth? Thanks.
    Doug
  • earlwearlw Posts: 8
    When at the factory and seeing the vans converted to mini motor homes I think I remember the floor having ridges. Also the plywood will help to reduce the highway noise and add a little insulation. I do know they leave it in at the factory. And it will be easier to attach things to the wooden floor than the metal floor. Hopes this helps.
  • nescosmonescosmo Posts: 453
    I don't wish any body bad things it just a saying. So far with the lord help my situation have become stable the county have left me along. I can park in my driveway after I install the fence and about the fence stay as is, for how long , don't know but so far so good. I am looking for a house away from the city when i find it, i'm gone.
  • nescosmonescosmo Posts: 453
    Sonnywood2.... the 2007 are going to be very over price and they will be with gas and diesel engines I think that you should move. If you buy a new model is going to cost you a lot. keep it in the rear yard and lock the yard and don't let them go in and if you do, find an old stove and dump it in the van, they are stupid any way, they work for the city.
  • i would sell and move if i thought i could get an equal home for the same money. the market is not real good here now. i also just put in a new pool last year. they told me that if i am going to make it a camper it would have to be inspected when done before i can park it there and i don't care if they do that. what gets my goat is they want me to give them plans of the drive etc. so they can ok it. i went around the area last week and seen 25 or 30 cars parked on the grass in there yards yet they say i can't drive on the grass to get to the back yard. it has to be an approved driveway. if i could only afford a lawyer i think i would have a case of discrimation.
  • I recently bought a 2006 sprinter 2500. I have gone to a bestbuy to have them install a alarm system, however the installers their were completely confused as to how to install the alarm on the car, so i never let them install it. I am just wondering has any one installed a alarm on this car, and if so what was the brand that was used. I store tools and materials in the back that are worth a lot a money, and i need them to be safe. Now i have a cargo wall to seperate the front from the back but i need something to alarm the entire truck. motion sensors will not work, as the tools have a lot of wood dust on them and the sensors would get covered by the dust, and make them not operate properly. As well the alarm can not be activated by the lights turning on inside the truck, as the workers that i employ sometimes turn them off and forget. The car is equiped with keyless entry. Any ideas?
  • Get an old style alarm that requires pins to be put in the door jams. When any door is opened, it sets off the alarm whether the lights come on or not; because it's independent of the sprinter's system other than to get the 12v power. I got an alarm on Ebay for $20 that works great. I don't need the remote start or ignition kill or any other fancy circuitry, although it cam with it. Alarm wiring diagrams can be found online that are specific to the sprinter if you want to install using the factory wiring harness; they tell you what color wire to hook to, and where it can be located. It took me about an hour and a half, and that included taking the dash and trim apart and drilling mounting holes for the flashing LED's where anyone could see them (on top of the dash above the steering wheel, and inside the window of each opening door).
  • punter1punter1 Posts: 50
    There are a million Sprinters in Europe.
    I would search British truck modifiers for alarm information.
  • nescosmonescosmo Posts: 453
    Sonny..... Do the next best thing go to the tv station and make a case out of it or call your congress man and tell them that you have been discriminated it. complain about code enforcement, tell them that they are finger pointing you. Don't let this shear butt breakers control your life.
  • hi, tidwells:

    nearly all van floors have ridges, since it is an easy way for manufacturers to gain strength and rigidity for flat metal surfaces. to be sure, crawl under and look up.

    you might want to think twice about removing the plywood floor: it is slip-proof and easy to sweep up. i kept it in my sprinter and when i put in place my camping conversion equipment, it works just fine for me. i know we're all different, but you might want to give it a double-think before removing. the height you will gain is only 1/2".

    grasspress
  • hi, sprinter owners:

    is mobil-1 synthetic oil approved for the sprinter diesel?

    i bought a purolater L25536 filter for 25$ but it hasn't arrived yet. does anyone know if this filter meets sprinter diesel specs?

    and what, exactly, are the procedures for changing oil? is it basically the same as for other vehicles: drain oil, replace filter, replace oil. are there other issues a bit different from other vehicles that might foul-up a first-time oil change. is the oil filter cap to the right of the engine after opening the hood? and i suppose the oil drain plug is the small plug to the driver's side of the oil pan (no plug on the bottom of the oil pan as in most older vehicles).

    this will be an oil change at 5000 miles; i'm just doing this as a boost to drain dirty oil from the break-in period. i plan to take the van to dealer for official oil changes for the duration of the warranty period.

    thanks to any help.

    grasspress
  • kenbakerkenbaker Posts: 239
    easy, just have big drip pan and don't do if windy as the oil will string out when it gets "thready" toward the end of the draining.

    Get the tool for opening the filter housing and make sure to keep track of the "O" rings when you remove them and put the NEW ones back in the same places.

    Fill with the recommended 9.5 quarts, then double check after the engine is run hot again.

    KenB
  • kenbakerkenbaker Posts: 239
    1) Mobil 1 (fully synthetic) is approved if of the correct viscosity. "diesel engine" oil is not required for this Mercedes diesel.

    2) Your purolator number looks OK according to nother website. That is a lot of $ for the filter element though. The D/C, Dodge, or Mercedes is a Mann (OEM) filter and they are generally not that expensive. My O-Reilly's quoted me $18.75 approx. for the filter element.

    3) the oil change is not special as far as I know except that you will want the wrench for opening the filter housing and will have "O" rings to retrieve and to put the new ones in the same places as you put it back together. Filter on right, filler front and center, drain on oil pan, dipstick is normal (transmission, of course, is not).

    4) If you are using the dealer for warranty period oil changes, then what is this oil change for? In case of a "boost" in oil clarity alone, then why use a new fliter? Why not just drain and refill? If you are unsure of the filter/o-rings, then you don't have that problem... Have the new filter handy just in case you are caught away from a Sprinter dealer when you need a change.

    The oil filter is typically just fine for 15,000 miles in most modern cars. Many recommend 7,500 mile oil changes and a filter every other oil change... manufacturers recommend this and get LONG life out of this scheme. The Sprinter with ASSYST can easily go to 15,000 miles on an oil change under light use conditions. Short oil change intervals are a thing of the past - or for severe duty - like: gravel dump trucks and taxis.

    My friends with the Cummins diesel Dodge trucks are getting their best mileage only after 20,000 miles (or 15,000 if you run them hard/pull trailers). Postponing complete break-in is not very helpful.

    I still have my GMC Safari running great on long oil changes: 7,500 miles (filter every time), 120,000 miles and running great. doesn't use oil or leak. does eat alternators too often. Regular change of ALL filters, oil, air, fuel, etc. Tight space leads to early engine mount (rubber part) failure (100,000 miles). Always runs in the correct tmep range and the oil pressure is good.

    KenB :shades:
  • nescosmonescosmo Posts: 453
    Grasspress You pay too much go to Autozone and get an STP S8481 filter it comes with the O rings also buy the cap wrench # A251 put on top of the filter cap and use a 3/8 extension to removed it. Once you take the canister out pull the filter straight out, replace the O rings and that is it. I use Chevron delo 15w-40 oil dino. I have 10k and replace the oil 2 times in case. I will replace the oil at about 12k that is when tha assist tell me to replace it. After that I will replace my oil at 5k I do not trust computers telling me when to replace the oil. I think that they want your engine not to last with this 10 or 12k oil change. Oil is a cheep insurance and I will change my oil every 5k or so.
  • kenbakerkenbaker Posts: 239
    Oil is, ostensibly, "cheap insurance"... however, throwing away 9.5 quarts of dirty oil extra during each 10,000 miles of driving is potentially more harmful to the environment in the long run. If the ASSYST tells you you can go 15,000 between changes, then your 5,000 mile changes waste 19 quarts of dirty oil.

    The 10,000 mile oil change intervals result in 500,000 mile longevity in about 50% of the Sprinters in a fleet (Mercedes numbers for major failures in fleet conditions, not just engines). Engine life is reportedly near million mile levels at recommended service levels. At this rate, your chassis will be pretty beaten up (and major repairs done, many times) long before the engine gives up.

    Of course we hear about failure of many parts in non-lubricated areas: sensors, injectors, harmonic balanacers, etc., but here I am talking about drive-train related problems. What we don't hear much of are internal oil-related problems... because modern oils, coupled with modern service levels and higher standards for filters and machining tolerances result in LONG life.

    The truth; as far as it can be discovered; is that 3,000 mile oil change intervals are a royal SCAM, 5K miles or more should be normal, and really great engines like the Mercedes 2.7l inline Turbo diesel are quite likely to run a VERY long time on 10,000 or even 15,000 mile intervals. 3,000 mile oil changes go back to the days of non-filtered oil systems.

    Your 5,000 mile plan is good, but even if you don't trust the ASSYST computer program, you'll be equally safe at 10,000 mile intervals. Chevron Delo 15W-40 is quite a bit thicker than it needs to be in Oklahoma, so I presume that you are in a Hot climate with no cold weather. We have cold weather here, so 0W-40 or 5W-40 is better, or in older vehicle we might use 10-40. In the summer we used to always use straight 30 weight (it was more resistant to break down because the viscosity modifiers were the most likely part of the oil to deteriorate in the summer Heat).

    15W-40 is likely to give Slightly Lower mileage... hahaha Realistically, I have never been able to find a noticeable diff. in mileage between 10W-40 and 5W-30!

    KenB :shades:
  • nescosmonescosmo Posts: 453
    KenB...Very good reply. I am from florida and the 15w-40 is very good for me. This past 2 week have been 98 and above which is very high for florida, humidity 80% so you can see how that engine work. I love chevron delo, in my engine it hardly get black, at 3k mile you still see the golden in the oil. My mileage is very good, better that the E150 that I had I think is about 20 to 25 mpg. Today I notice a knocking in the engine when I was at the red light, i put it in neutral and the knock stop. i'll see what will happen tomorrow
  • kenbakerkenbaker Posts: 239
    Thanks Nescosmo... I think I remember your comments on Florida's diesel fuel problems... at 98 F., 80% humidity, and IDLE (in drive) you will expect some (light) diesel knock made worse by fuel problems and the fact that the pavement under your vehicle is even hotter than 98 F.

    Any experience with Power Service Diesel Fuel Treatment (with Slickdiesel)? Advertised as anti-gelling, cetane boosting, lubricating, etc. Also supposed to be equivalent (fur running the engine) to 50/50 mix of no.1/no.2 Diesel?

    My dad's diesel mechanic has recommended it for his Ford E350 Diesel van and it has certainly helped his mileage (2-3 MPG). This is not an advertisement, I just want to get feedback prior to trying this out for my Sprinter.

    KenB :shades:
  • i have been using power service for about 10000 in my 2006 hauling a trailer. i get in the low 20's. without trailer got 26.5 keeping it under 2000 rpm on take offs and sticking to the speed limits.
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