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Dodge Sprinter

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Comments

  • nescosmonescosmo Posts: 453
    Kenb... I don't need anti-gelling i have seen the power service without the anti-gelling, is that one ok?
  • nescosmonescosmo Posts: 453
    Sonny... is hard for me to keep the rpm under 2k; I have an 3500 sprinter with the 15" wheels
  • bspertybsperty Posts: 20
    FYI My dealer is replacing my 2500 windshield. A crack appeared from the drivers side bottom corner originating from behind the post.I saw another sprinter with the same crack in a parking lot.
  • bertmbcbertmbc Posts: 8
    I have reviewed the second battery thread and checked out the Blue Sea Batterylink device. I have looked on the shop manual and see that the device is connected to a red wire coming off the alternator.

    Under the drivers seat there is an Optional Equipment Fuse bank with numerous red wires. First of all is there a spare red wire somewhere? Do you run a new red wire all the way from the alternator? Do you splice a selected red wire.?

    The Blue sea schematic also indicates an optional switch and LED. Are these suggested for the Sprinter second battery application?

    Lastly, for practical purposes where specifically was the second battery installed?
  • bertmbcbertmbc Posts: 8
    I have a new 2006 Sprinter 2500.

    At the base of the drivers seat and extending into the step well is a black bracket. Near the top it has a vertical slot and four screws, This looks a lot like a CB radio mike bracket.

    The section that extends into the well has several punched hole patterns. One of the hole patterns does match that on a CB radio bracket.

    I really don't think that is what it is for because the space is too small, even fo a small radio.

    Any clues">
  • I had that, too. I took it out.
  • kenbakerkenbaker Posts: 239
    That basically is one of my questions too... In the experience of the group, does the Power Service additives make a difference? Does the $1.25 per tank (8 oz. per tank fill (26 gal.) and $15/96 oz.(12 treatments)) pay off?

    Power Service additive is $15 at O-Reilly's Auto Parts... here in Oklahoma they just carry the diesel fuel system cleaner and the anti-gelling, cetane boosting version , with Slickdiesel (TM?).

    Thanks,
    KenB :shades:
  • kenbakerkenbaker Posts: 239
    Run the new wire from the block on the front of the battery under the hood all the way to your new aux. battery. Use a fuse (or fusible link) appropriate for the run of wire you are adding. That block on the front of the battery under the hood usually has one open slot on it that you can use for the aux. battery. Add your fuse (probably 20 or 30 Amps) from the hot side to the new red wire on the open side going on to your new battery position. Refer to the manufacturers specs for the weight (gauge) of the wire going to the new battery, and the size of the fuse required, they are prepared to guide you or else they should not be making the product.

    Adding the battery under the front passenger seat is great for some people, but you may want the power further back in your van if you are using it in the rear part of the vehicle (for RV, conversion, or mobile office pusposes).

    The OPTIMA (TM?) type batterys are great because they basically can't spill. but as with all batteries, you MUST make sure that they NEVER short against anything metal whether attached to the vehicle or not.

    KenB :shades:
  • i have been using the power service and get 2-3 more miles to the gallon. don't know if it pays or not. i use it for the lube quality's of the fuel system and injectors.
  • earlwearlw Posts: 8
    Putting the battery under the passenger seat is done by a lot of people using them for a RV. I know my battery under the passenger seat also has a plastic vent tube that directs the gasses from the battery through the floor. Batteries that I have used in the past are the absorbed glass matt type battery. They don't have to be vented and can be mounted in any position and are maintance free. They cost a little more but hold up better than a regular deep cycle battery. Check on the W.W.W. for Lifeline battery.
  • kenbakerkenbaker Posts: 239
    That seems like roughly a gallon or two in savings per tankful, so the payoff would be real... $1.25 for a treatment, versus $3.09 for a gallon of diesel.

    What do you see for the price of the treatment? About 8 onces/tankful?

    KenB :shades:
  • jemepajemepa Posts: 4
    Hi everyone,
    I just change oil,filters and also fuel filter.When I try to start my 2002 sprinter it didn't start.I looked at the Clear fuel line There is no fuel going in to engine.Can any one knows anything about this problem.
    Thank You.
  • rtohrtoh Posts: 2
    It is a good practice to fill the new fuel filter with diesel or diesel additive before installing. This saves the fuel pump from working extra hard to get the fuel into the system.
  • bertmbcbertmbc Posts: 8
    I'm designing the interior for my newly aquired Sprinter and would like to hear other design thoughts.

    Using the second battery thread info, I'm adding a second battery, invertor for 110v. I think i'll have a shore power outlet and switch to change from onboard to shore power.

    My Sprinter is 140" hightop. In th rear space I'm going to mount one 36" flush door and one 30 0r32 " door on hinges so they will fold up against the side walls, out of the way.

    This platform will receive a queensize inflatable mattress.

    I'm going to install a dorm refrigerator and microwave. I don't know about builtin's but am looking at stock closet stuff. there is a wide array of shelving and drawer units available.

    I'm looking for sliding or vented windows for the rear or sliding door unit.

    I don't intend to fancy it up to commercial RV standards but do want it to allow extended travel convenience. No carpet or fancy wall treatment. I am wondering about insulating the roof.

    Just a few thoughts for discussion....
  • jemepajemepa Posts: 4
    Thank you for respond.
    I removed the little screw on top of the filter and sucked the fuel with small hose and I know filled the filter.When I crank the engine I don't see any fuel going from that clear hose.I am recharging the battery now so it will crank the angine little better.(I tryed it so many times.)
  • nescosmonescosmo Posts: 453
    Jemepa.... Next time all you have to do is to open the switch key and you will notes a noise, that is the siculating pump. Let it be for a few minutes and it will prime it self. Then close the key and start the engine and up up and away the engine will start.
  • jemepajemepa Posts: 4
    Hi nescosmo,I tried what you told me to try but no pump sound.They have the pump on the tank,right?Is it possible when I disconnect the fuel line from filter some how fuel pump is shut off?I check the fuses,they are fine,I just fill up the tank,recharge the battery,I disconnect the battery hoping it would reset something but no luck yet.I remember reading few funny things about 2002 sprinter electronics.
  • nescosmonescosmo Posts: 453
    Jemepa..... It should work some times you can not hear it and sometime make a wisiling noise. as far as i know there are two pump the low and high pressure pump. the manual tell you how to do it and that is the way to do it. read the manual is there.
  • hawk8hawk8 Posts: 31
    For windows try http://www.motionwindows.com/ or
    http://www.trucknvans.com/Van_Windows_04_05_Sprinter_Van_s/772.htm
    ask Jeff Kemp > jeff@motionwindows.com to email you more info. we'll be ordering from him.
  • jemepajemepa Posts: 4
    I checked everything,went under the van to hear any pump noise,disconnect the hose from fuel filter to see if it will pump fuel in a bottle but no luck yet.How is it possible that simple filter change causes a pump failure? I am still appreciated for you guys help.
  • hawk8hawk8 Posts: 31
    any suggestions as to where to place a propane bottle? is it legal to have place it on a Hitch Cargo Carrier?
  • i would think you could find a rack to mount it on the rear door. i think that would be a lot easier than on a hitch.
  • hawk8hawk8 Posts: 31
    that would be great if i can find one. we just need this for one trip, later we want to install an Underbelly Propane Tank.
  • Does any body knows were to buy a dip stick for the tranny to check the oil level. We are on september is the ulsd flowing on the pipes lines. I have not seen any sticker add for the ulsd yet.
  • While driving on I-20 in SC, part of my serpentine belt broke loose and starting making a "flapping noise". Within a minute, it cut through the rubber transmission fluid hose located beneath it! This seems like rather poor design....I guess I'm lucky it didn't break a fuel line. We were able to replace the hose with a custom-fabricated heavier-duty hose for $41. The local Dodge dealer wanted $53 to order a replacement to arrive the next day. Has this happened to anyone else? Or was this a freak occurence? I've only been driving this 02 Sprinter for about a month! Doug
  • i have a 2006 2500 140wb shc bone stock with 16 inch rims and i've noticed that my speedometer is steadily 2-3 mph above the vehicles actual speed. i'm able to meter these figures because my local law enforcement agency has been kind enough to place radar machines all over town for everyone to enjoy. my other cars have been spot on accurate and i spoke with local cop whom explained to me the extreme calibrationing these machines go through before they go into the public. i may be wrong here, and if i am please correct me, but if if your car is traveling 25 mph for one hour burns just one gallon of fuel and the speedometer is reading (and recording) 28 mph then your apparent fuel milege is going to be 28 mpg when actually your MPG is only 25. so this means that... i either have defective speedometer and must return to the dealership... or the local cops bought 15 broken radar machines and it's slipped by so many people and i'm the first to notice the mistake or, just maybe all you folks that are getting 21 mpg are actually getting 18 mpg....

    my 97 powerstroke diesel e-350 gets 18 mpg on the highway loaded. my sprinter gets 21 mpg loaded. my PSD E-350's speedometer is accurate as per the radar machines (as compared to a 2003 honda, 97 s-10 pu and 1993 geo) so does this mean that if my speedometer is 3 MPH off my sprinter it is actually getting 18 MPG-- same as my ford diesel? hmmm? i guess i spent and extra $10k for a lighter duty, gutless van? not to mention it's fancy computer controlled assyt system that can count how many miles you need go before you're next service but can't figure out how fast the vehicle is going at 30 mph without a 10% error (radar says 27, speedo says 30. i did this five time one night)

    don't get me wrong... i like this van a lot... but the level of quality that i thought i bought is just not what it's priced to be. my dealer totally misrepresented this vehicle to me and i'm upset about that. i ve been to the dealer six times in the last two months only to have the dealer just finally tell that they don't have anyone that really knows about these vans and can't fix my problems (2 broken lumbars, un-fixable side and rear door rattling, trans vibrations) and that my next service is going to cost me $500. hooraay five star chrysler dealers.

    please, if anyone can get a chance do your own experiments with this please do. with a buddy's car, cell phones and cruise control you should be able to compare it with any other modern car.

    any ideas on this???
  • this maybe happening to some of you out there so i tell you about my fix. early in the ownership of my van i noticed the side door was rattling. after 3 trips to the dealer they kind of fixed it and told me that the push-rod plunger for the power locks had come loose and was rattling. OK, the noise subsided a little but the door still made some noise. so i return to the dealer and they spend a whole day doing adjustments and it goes away for 3 days. finally i return and they said they're was nothing they could do. so, i told 'em, "if i'd run my business they way they do, by not knowing anything about the products they're selling, i couldn't afford their van."

    anyhow, so i decide to fix it myslef and it turns out that there are two metal pintles (male)on the leading edge of the door that align into two sockets (female) that cause the door to be guided and held in place when it's closed. the solution is to put a little duct tape (just one layer, maybe two) around the pintle and dampens the vibration rattle and reduces the tolerance. the door is now totally quiet. six days of down town at the dealer then fixed in 2 minutes by an graphic artist.... WTF???
  • The big downside to the Sprinter is they build them in Germany and then to get around the tariffs on vans they break them down , ship them over and reassemble them. That cannot be good for quality or price. Also they were limited to only importing 20,000 a year so there was not that much repair experience. The new model initially will be limited to 30,000 at the new plant in South Carolina where they are importing them but it can expand. All that being said I am still going to order a 2007 as soon as I can if they are not too much money. They still have not started up the plant in SC so it will be a few months till we see a 2007. They have however been crash tested by NHTSA so they know what the configuration will be. October 1 is ULSD day in the USA!
  • Methodvan,
    I got the same help in Oklahoma City... take it back to dealer multiple times for rattles and they apparently only "fixed" one rear door alignment problem... but fail to adjust the blocks on the inside of the rear door that keep the doors from moving around when you hit bumps... I found that and "fixed" them.

    The Rear Door Block "fix" is certainly NOT permanent since the blocks apparently loosen over time and now the rear door rattles are back... perhaps I can fix them for another 6 months or so if I adjust them again.

    The side door rattle problem was evident from the beginning, but the dealer made NO ATTEMPT to fix this. The rubbing of the alignment tabs (pintles) in the sockets was evident from the beginning and I pointed this out to the service manager and writer. had not thought of try in duct tape to reduce the clearance, how do you get it to stay stuck?

    What I had thought of was trying to adjust the position of one (or both) of the tab/socket pairs so that they were in opposition to each other and would hold the door steady instead of letting the door jusmp up and down in both sockets.

    It also seems apparent that the internal locking mechanism(s) in the side door are rattling on other components or against themselves...

    KenB :confuse:
  • i understand what you mean that car is built in germany and assembled here which increases the price and could reduce the quality but boo-hoo. would you be as understanding if you had to pay a contractor twice as much as the next guy to do job because he had to drive further to get to the jobsite and consequently couldn't produce the best quality work for the price? and i don't buy the no information/experience at the dealer bit because they're limited production... if the average sprinter cost $35K and they're selling 20,000 of them a year that makes over $70 million in gross sales annually... although that's small percentage of what dodge may sell a year they makes no excuse for them to not to respect they're product (and the F---ing $40,000 i spent on it!!!)

    i'll be honest, my dodge dealer doesn't like me. i've brought my sprinter in 6 times to get various things fixed that shouldn't be breaking in the first two months: my seat adjustment broke twice, couldn't fix my door rattle on 6 attempts, lumbar seats failing after two weeks, the list goes on.... anyhow, while they're scratching their heads trying to fix my van for 4-6 hours, i'm not waiting like a docile hindu cow in the customer lounge am i... no,no,no! i wait for prospective sprinter buyers on the lot and try to help them understand what they're buying and give them the important info rather than listen to the saleman's big deep-tissue massage about the all new important buzz word: "fuel economy"... it's easy to assymilate the "too good to be true" phrase when it comes to this car if you ask me. the fact is that the salesman don't know anything about these specialty vehicles and neglect to mention very important stuff to prospective cargo van buyer like... speed control @ 83 mph (not so good on the two lane roads and big interstates with 75 mph limits), 15 inch load range E tires ($1000+++ set of tires anyone?), a cassete player in the base model (what other $40,000 car has tape player? so who has tapes!?! i heard in the passenger model you can get VHS system to go with it!!) and best of all the $500 service every 10,000 miles. by the way, my dealer told me that the first oil change was on them... "great!" i thought... hmm... little did i know that when it came time to do it they decided to give me just $19.95 off my first $500 oil and misc filter change. one must realize that there might be few folks out there that might buy one of these things for their own personal use but the majority of us use 'em for work similar to how one may have, over a hundred years ago, used a mule... to carry stuff!!! i just feel like i got snowed from day one and should have just bought a ford or chevy for half the price and at least i would've known what i could expect. it really urks me to know how much i'm paying for this "mule" when i compare it to say, my personal car. A high economy cargo van that actually "works" here in america is still a bit of a pipe dream if you ask me... that is, until toyota or nissan or mitsubishi get into the market here in the US.


    i am however very greatful for this forum and the knowledgable folks in it. if it wasn't pooled information from other sprinter owners my dealer would haven't figured out that my trans fluid was low and it was causing a low speed grumble when cold... this could have cost me big in the future.

    although my attitude may be rather negative about the van so far i do still like it a lot and i think the idea of it has potential to really be something great... i just wish i could've waited until that point to buy one.

    by the way i bought it on june 6, 2006... does anyone think that could have made a difference (perhaps the devil is in my van?)

    cheers!
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