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Dodge Sprinter

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Comments

  • Punter1,
    I guess you shouldn't be too sure about the downside of assembly or reassembly in the US... I have the passenger van which is built in Germany and shipped whole.

    I have had some of the same rattles, the transmission vibration (most at @1,250 RPM and a little at @2,500 RPM), lumbar supports no good (still not fixed, bulb inflator falling apart, inside valve), transmission leak (o-rings), used 4 quarts of oil on the second oil change so far (8,000 miles).

    And the dealer only has ONE (1) Sprinter tech. I am pretty sure that they did not use the promised Synthetic oil, and the regular oil change crew did the change, not the Sprinter tech (he was on vacation to Hawaii)... If any of you remember, my first oil change was free because of all the hassles I had just getting the transmission O-Rings fixed... I will do my own oil changes from now on.

    KenB :confuse:
  • Ken B, i just wiped off the grease which was on the pintles and wraped a small strip of duct tape around it. i realize it's irritating to have to fix such an expensive car with such a botch but at least it's out of sight and it'll make the noise go away. metal to metal contact is never a good thing on something that vibrates (like say... a big unibody van)i thought about removing them and dipping the pintle part in some rubberized tool handle dip. but i don't have the desire just yet. good luck!!!
  • GPS appears to confirm that the speedo is off for MPH. I have not remembered to gauge a known distance to the odometer to see if it is also off. On older cars, the two values were not linked to each other... but in a computerized odometer/speedometer I would expect the two values to be directly and accurately linked.

    My van is about 3 MPH off at the top (82 MPH on speedo = 79 MPH on GPS). At least 2 MPH off at 45-55 MPH.

    My intent is to drive a route with GPS totalling the miles and matching this to the odometer.

    KenB :confuse:
  • I had that problem on the rear. being an "old car" guy, I had already solved the problem on my '61 Chevy Corvair van; I went to the hardware store and bought a thin wall nylon bushing, basically a little cylinder, slit it open and put it on the door latch. It lasts longer than tape, but it will still wear out over time.
  • My GPS shows about 68mph when odometer shows 70mph.
  • also my gps showed my speed 2 to 3 off but i did check mile markers and the mile reading was good. i checked for about 5 miles on interstate 95
  • I know all yours problem but it is better than ford. I do not trust dealer, i run my and i eat the problem, i change my oil etc. I go to the dealer only if i have to. my van runs ok considering the situation so guys just keep driving it until it died.
  • I'm usually pretty good about this kind of thing, but I can't pick a good location to mount aftermarket speakers.
    I have the SHC passenger model; with the thick headliner. The headliner would be the obvious place, but there isn't a big enough "flat" place to mount 6.5" speakers in it. I'm tempted to just put up some surface mount speakers, but I don't want them in a place where they will bonk people in the head. Maybe mounted under the first bench seat on the frame? I'm assuming the front doors are too thin to allow mounting speakers in them; I need 2" clearance. Any ideas or solutions?
  • I was told (haven't tried it yet) that you turn on the vehicle. Push the miles button twice. Turn off the vehicle. Push and hold the mileage button while you turn it back on and that will clear the maintenance reminder.

    Steve
  • Bill...
    I am looking to put my first extra pair in the front doors if possible and then limiting the bass that goes to the ones in the dash (small (correct) capacitor in series (with in-dash drivers) will do the trick). Like you, still not sure of the clearance in the front doors, may have to have a minimal trim ring/stand-off to set speakers out of door a bit?

    For the rear i am leaning heavily toward surface mount speakers mounted up high in the rear on either side of the air conditioner system (I have the rear air option). The last thing will probably be a sub either under the front-most rear bench, or along the drivers side behind the drivers seat and back to the second bench (passenger van). This may be a "bazooka" tube.

    KenB :shades:
    2004 MWB 2500 HC Wagon (Dodge) in Mercedes clothes... (ebay Mercedes conversion package) stock 16" steel wheels with MB caps, Arctic White per dealer spec writer (I got the one the dealer had delivered to show prospective buyers... no imagination used to order)
  • I have some indoor/outdoor small speakers that I got at Costco to use as surrounds at home. I hooked them up, and they sound fine (I'm no audiophile while driving in a loud van!). They are about 8x5x5, and I think I'll mount them on the ceiling by the rear air unit, since they won't hang down any lower than the rear part, anyway. I had purchased some 6.5" speakers to mount in the headliner, until I discovered that the trim rings exceeded the "flat" part. I think that I could put 5.25" speakers there without a problem, but I'll take measurements this time! The stock mercedes speakers that I pulled out of the rear walls fit there, but I'm sure they're crappy OEM speakers. Idealy, I would like to stick two sets up in the headliner, keep the dash speakers but add a crossover and surface tweeters to them, and stick a subwoofer somewhere. While looking at new cars lately, I noticed a lot of them have a stock subwoofer mounted below the dash in the center. I think that you could probably plug the air vent that goes into the cupholder, and mount an 8" in there with no problem. The other location would be under the passenger seat. I'm not a fan of subwoofers, I'd rather have a good pair of low-response speakers in conjunction with some fulls and tweeters, but as huge as this van is, there are surprisingly few places to mount speakers symetrically. I even toyed with the idea of getting a good 4.1 computer speaker set, like the Creative z-560's, and just running them off a power converter; sticking the subwoofer under the first row bench. Since I removed the two rear bench seats and screwed plywood cargo panels over the walls and rear windows, I suppose that I could mount speakers in the cavity area of the rear windows...but that would be more work removing them when I convert it back to a 10 passenger van when I need to (right now I just take out 8 screws to remove the plywood and put the seats back in).
  • for a couple of days it has been running bad sometimes not going over 2ooo rpm. the engine light came on and then the next morning it was out. last night heard a big pop and the plastic piece between the turbo and the inter cooler broke apart. goes in the shop today.
  • had it in the shop for the turbo problem and a first service. the cost of the service was $315.55. they charged me $97.00 labor to do the service. it would of been another $100.00 to have the air filter changed. they also said you have to have it serviced every 10,000 miles and reset my maint asst to do it that way. why did i pay for the maint asst for them to disable it. where can i go to get this resolved. what i have saved on fuel milage was lost in an oil change. i sure am not to happy having problems with this truck so early on.
    will my warrenty stay good if i do my own service?
    $101.50 $10.15 per quart of oil
    $12.92 oil filter
    $64.31 fuel filter
    $90.00 replace fuel filter
    $6.00 2 clamps and fuel
    $14.55 supplies and disposal
  • Sonny...buy your own filter at autozone put chevron delo 400 oil, it take 9.5 quarts of oil. I buy my fuel filter on the net, and the air filter. if you go to autozone they will order it for you. do not pay the dealer those prices, the warranty is on even if you don't take it to the dealer, about the maint asst look at the book it tell you how to reset it.
  • i had the same failure with 10,000 miles and factory installed oil and premiun bp deisel. nothing changed from new
  • I had my Kenwood w/Sirius moved from my old Ford E-150 to my Sprinter by Abt electronics (Chicago area). I have a short WB passenger van. They replaced the stock dash speakers with higher quality units, and installed 6x9's in the wall panels just behind the second seat (just past the sliding door opening, and on the opposite wall). With bias set towards the rear, the sound is good at low and medium speeds. At highway speeds, you have to crank it if over 65-70 (my normal criuse speed). The tech said he had done other Sprinters - to put speakers in the doors, he once built custom surface mounted boxes because they are of shallow depth.
  • i did the key off and on but it dose not change my oil change distance. i am going back to the dealer and demand him to put it back the way it was with the maint asst. if they won't do it i will call customer support and see what go's. the more i think about the $315.00 oil change the madder i get. the $97.00 labor charge is out of control after they charge about double for the oil and etc. that you can buy it for at any of the local auto stores.
  • I'm looking to add ventilation as well. Did you ever arrive at a solution?
  • No solution completed, but I think I am going to get small slider windows installed above the rear door windows. They'll be about 24" x 8", the opening part will be about 11" x 8" each, which is a lot of air flow. I still don't know if their going to suck in exhaust while moving, though. The other option is to get a sunroof put in, which might actually be cheaper. I would put in a powered roof vent, but I kind of want to keep the roof flat in case I need to put a rack on top and haul stuff.
  • I replaced my factory dash speakers with Infinity two-way speakers. I installed 4-way 6x9's below the side windows of my wagon model behind the rear seat.
    I have a bazooka tube woofer under the second seat with enough cable so that I can move it between the front seats if I need to remove the seats to carry something big.
    I installed a Pioneer GPS/CD/DVD in the dash & a back-up camera.
    It looks and sounds great.
  • when my abs sensor gets wet i get 4 lights on dash, brake abs, esp, and a tire. it was happening every now and then after driving all day in the rain i narrowed it down to the abs sensor because i spilled diesel when changing my fuel filter and hosed it off. then when i restarted the four lights came on. any advice would be appreciated i was thinking dielectric grease if thats what its called also could i just spray the whole outside with like a silicone to repel water?... thx in advance brian 05 140 high cargo 110k miles
  • John, what size are the dash speakers? 4x6?
  • Disconnect the sensor, inspect the connector for damaged or crimped seals and for worn, crimped, partially cut, or improperly sealed wires. All of that done, and if the connector does not need to be replaced, then use some dialectric grease or silicone grease to put the connector back together to keep water out.

    As an alternative you may wrap the connector with self-sealing rubber tape, but it will be a bit harder to get back into the connector later. This tape is the soft black rubber tape with a red plastic backing that comes off... stretching the black rubber part activates it and as you wrap it in layers it sticks together and becomes one piece and seals very well.

    If the problem does not go away with repairs to the connector, then you need a new sensor or connector. The sensor should be sealed properly and should not need special measures to "fix" it. Special measures to fix a sensor simply will not last and its integrity is very important.

    KenB :shades:
  • Bill,
    Sprinter in-dash speakers are round and about 4", no visible retainers on top of speaker.

    To access them, pull the plastic pillar-cover straight out carefully... the whole thing is held in place with spring clips punched into plastic body inserts or similar.

    next, you will pry up the plastic speaker cover, also carefully as the plastic "ears" of the cover hold it in place.

    Now the speakers are exposed and you can see why they just aren't very much for shucks... They don't even have a whizzer cone to extend the highs, and 4" is just not enough for bass even in a small space.

    I haven't yet removed them for the upgrade, so I don't have details on removal/replacement. On my current budget, they will stay, with a capacitor added to limit bass. Not sure about adding a homemade whizzer cone to the voicecoil/cone junction, but it could help extend the highs by providing a very stiff/small cone to project the treble with less cone breakup.

    KenB :shades:
  • I've done my first oil change by myself (second oil change) at 18,700 (first was at 9,283)... This was easy except two things: 1) dealer used too much torque to crank down the oil drain plug and the oil filter cap; 2) Checking and cleaning out the air filter box and the cabin air filter are both a pain...

    The oil filter cap (with its internal filter mounting) is ALL o-ring sealed. O-rings do NOT require tightening to seal, they seal through fit in a machined space, not through pressure against a contact surface(s).

    I got all the oil and filter from Auto Zone (about $70 total). 10 quarts of Mobil 1 0W-40 (about 5.99/quart, 6 qts/35.99), meeting all the MB 229.51 specs, fully synthetic of course (all Mobil 1 is).

    The filter (about $11) came with more o-rings than required, so a little careful selection of which ones to use (three) is in order. this thing is very neat and clean... you loosen the cap and un-screw it slowly and when the bottom o-ring disengages, it drains the entire oil filter housing into the pan... now you lift up and let the oil drip off of the filter element a bit... then remove and turn the whole thing over (cap down) and any other drips stay in the cap while you pull the old element off. Use a pick to remove the old o-rings, install the new ones (carefully chosen to fit the three places on the cap/holder from the o-rings supplied), then put the new element on (put fresh oil on the o-rings so they will slide back in easily during the install).

    Now put the filter/cap back into the housing and screw it in slowly/carefully. when the seals hit their sealing spaces, the turning will get harder and you might want the filter wrench to continue running the cap in, but do NOT use the wrench to "tighten" the cap!

    After adding back the first 9 quarts of oil I restarted the engine and let it idle to ensure that the oil was all circulated... NO LOW PRESSURE warning EVER came on during this process. Wait a few minutes to let the oil run back down, and check the oil level (low, not off of stick, but low end of stick). From experience, this means it is at LEAST 1 Quart LOW... Add ENTIRE 10th quart, and the level is now in the middle of the (correct) area of the dipstick (not completely maxed out, but well about minimum).

    SO, 9.5 quarts is WRONG at least on my dipstick, it is at least 10 quarts, more like 10.5 or 11 quarts. at the end of the week I will fill up for a trip (fuel stop) and also double check the oil level (after only about 200 miles) and top off the oil to full (max normal).

    After that top-off I will report.

    Also talked to the AMS-OIL guys at the State Fair of Oklahoma yesterday and got more good oil info, including oil change intervals out to 25,000 miles or one year... any believers out there? They are probably about $45-50 for 2.5 gals (10 quarts), and meet all european and MB/DC specs, like MB 229.51. They are supposed to get me specs for filters as well, theirs are micron (nano-fiber) filters that certainly look like Fleece Filters that people have talked about here in the forum. If you have experience with AMS-OIL, please respond.

    This is simply a request for info, I am NOT related to any one with AMS-OIL as far as I know... unless I have an un-known relative or something like that.

    Thanks,
    KenB :shades:
  • thanks kenb
    i have gotten 2 calls back from my dealer on the complaint of the cost of the service and them changing my maint asst to only do 10,000 mile changes. they are going to check into it and let me know.
    thanks for the info. i will do it myself from now on.
    thanks
    sonnywood2
  • I can only see that kind of cost on a 30,000 mile service which includes the air filter and the cabin air filter (along with a full oil change).

    Having tried out the air filter change routine this time (at nearly 20,000, not due until 30,000miles), I know it is not easy/simple... You will have to remove the turbo shield, cut loose at least one cable tie (replace later), keep track of at least one bolt and two nuts, disconnect the rubber air hose from air box (goes to turbo), disconnect two connectors (electrical, mass air and intake air temp I think) and still it is tight to manuever the tope of the air box out so you can remove the filter.

    I then vacuumed out the box, inspected the filter and gently blew out the dust (no compressed air) and put it all back together until the proper 30,000 mile change interval.

    Finding and taking out the cabin air filter to check on it was equally fun, except its position over the middle of the engine compartment is easy to get to... finding the touch fastener material (generic velcro-like I presume) is a bit fun the first time. This fastener area is where the panel comes off. A spring clip front and rear of the left side of the air pan remove, more (velcro-like material) separates from the housing above, and then the panel slides to the left. The filter may then fall out, mine did.

    Brush and vacuum out the pan, blow out the filter from the back side, and then the tricky part... Put it back in and get the pan back on without letting the filter fall out againI promise it is not easy. It is however possible that the factory mis-installed mine, and that the ends of the filter are slightly crimped where they should go around two posts that are designed to hold them in, but this is not clear from the part as it fell out. This will be tried when I put in a new filter at 30,000 miles.

    Thanks,
    KenB :shades:
  • Kenbaker....Be very careful when you add the oil. If you put 9.5 quarts of oil and run the engine for five minutes, the mark will read maybe half or above half, not full; you will have the take the van for a ride and let the temp go up to its 180 another word to normal temp and then stop the van wait a few minutes and check the oil; you will see that the oil level will be be to full. if you add to much oil your ccv will send the oil to the turbo and you will have problem in the future. I use delo chevron oil 15w-40 deno and i change the oil at about 5 to 6k and it run like silk.

    nescosmo
  • nescosmo,
    thanks for the warning, but even after a day or two and running several miles at a time, the 10 quarts (allowed to drain back into the pan) is never over full. When Cold, it is near to 1/2 way between min and max.

    I appreciate the gravity of the situation concerning over-fill. I certainly have read the warnings and understand that oil may be pushed or drawn back through the intake system and damage the catalytic convertor.

    I also carefully re-read the manual last night and know that I should see a "HI" indicator if the oil is too full. Also, 9 quarts (1/2 quart low) is acceptable to start and run the engine (per detailed info in the manual that one quart low (MIN) is also OK, but also the level at which to add one quart).

    With 9 quarts in and WELL circulated in a hot engine (during new oil change) I got a reading just on the stick and maybe to the MIN mark. After adding 10th quart, I got to the mid point of MIN/MAX. Even all hot I am still not reading over MAX.

    I hope this shows that I have been Very carefull in proceeding forward.

    What I have yet to acknowlege to the group so far is that I used at least 4 quarts of oil in about 7,500 miles (from 9293 (first oil change) to 17,000 (approx., 1,579 miles prior to second oil change) I had to add 4 quarts to keep near max). My first 2 quarts was only 1,000 miles after first oil change, when the light came on warning it was low. Imagine my surprise since the engine used little or no oil for the first 9,293 miles. Should I believe now that the Dodge dealer may not have used the proper prescribed oil? I am almost certain that the dealer did NOT fully fill to the MAX mark.

    Since adding 4 quarts of full synthetic oil over the timespan, and seeing how beautiful the oil was at the second oil change... (my personal change), then I am just not sure what oild they used... my oil added was certainly to spec.

    Certainly the oil has soot, and it is kind of black, but this is minimal IMHO and the oil is still sweet smelling, no burnt character, no discoloration (other than soot), it feels silky smooth on the fingers. The soot is very well dispersed, the oil shows through clean and clear when you spread it thin, and the soot will almost seem to "tatoo" you since it is very tiny and sinks into pores easily. I am so used to always running an old gasoline engine that this experience is just nearly mind-boggling.

    I am looking forward to seeing whether or not I use any oil during this oil change cycle on Mobil 1, 0W-40, MB 229.51 certified oil.

    Thanks,
    KenB :confuse:
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