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Dodge Sprinter



  • nescosmonescosmo Posts: 453
    Kenb... I don't need anti-gelling i have seen the power service without the anti-gelling, is that one ok?
  • nescosmonescosmo Posts: 453
    Sonny... is hard for me to keep the rpm under 2k; I have an 3500 sprinter with the 15" wheels
  • bspertybsperty Posts: 20
    FYI My dealer is replacing my 2500 windshield. A crack appeared from the drivers side bottom corner originating from behind the post.I saw another sprinter with the same crack in a parking lot.
  • bertmbcbertmbc Posts: 8
    I have reviewed the second battery thread and checked out the Blue Sea Batterylink device. I have looked on the shop manual and see that the device is connected to a red wire coming off the alternator.

    Under the drivers seat there is an Optional Equipment Fuse bank with numerous red wires. First of all is there a spare red wire somewhere? Do you run a new red wire all the way from the alternator? Do you splice a selected red wire.?

    The Blue sea schematic also indicates an optional switch and LED. Are these suggested for the Sprinter second battery application?

    Lastly, for practical purposes where specifically was the second battery installed?
  • bertmbcbertmbc Posts: 8
    I have a new 2006 Sprinter 2500.

    At the base of the drivers seat and extending into the step well is a black bracket. Near the top it has a vertical slot and four screws, This looks a lot like a CB radio mike bracket.

    The section that extends into the well has several punched hole patterns. One of the hole patterns does match that on a CB radio bracket.

    I really don't think that is what it is for because the space is too small, even fo a small radio.

    Any clues">
  • I had that, too. I took it out.
  • kenbakerkenbaker Posts: 239
    That basically is one of my questions too... In the experience of the group, does the Power Service additives make a difference? Does the $1.25 per tank (8 oz. per tank fill (26 gal.) and $15/96 oz.(12 treatments)) pay off?

    Power Service additive is $15 at O-Reilly's Auto Parts... here in Oklahoma they just carry the diesel fuel system cleaner and the anti-gelling, cetane boosting version , with Slickdiesel (TM?).

    KenB :shades:
  • kenbakerkenbaker Posts: 239
    Run the new wire from the block on the front of the battery under the hood all the way to your new aux. battery. Use a fuse (or fusible link) appropriate for the run of wire you are adding. That block on the front of the battery under the hood usually has one open slot on it that you can use for the aux. battery. Add your fuse (probably 20 or 30 Amps) from the hot side to the new red wire on the open side going on to your new battery position. Refer to the manufacturers specs for the weight (gauge) of the wire going to the new battery, and the size of the fuse required, they are prepared to guide you or else they should not be making the product.

    Adding the battery under the front passenger seat is great for some people, but you may want the power further back in your van if you are using it in the rear part of the vehicle (for RV, conversion, or mobile office pusposes).

    The OPTIMA (TM?) type batterys are great because they basically can't spill. but as with all batteries, you MUST make sure that they NEVER short against anything metal whether attached to the vehicle or not.

    KenB :shades:
  • i have been using the power service and get 2-3 more miles to the gallon. don't know if it pays or not. i use it for the lube quality's of the fuel system and injectors.
  • earlwearlw Posts: 8
    Putting the battery under the passenger seat is done by a lot of people using them for a RV. I know my battery under the passenger seat also has a plastic vent tube that directs the gasses from the battery through the floor. Batteries that I have used in the past are the absorbed glass matt type battery. They don't have to be vented and can be mounted in any position and are maintance free. They cost a little more but hold up better than a regular deep cycle battery. Check on the W.W.W. for Lifeline battery.
  • kenbakerkenbaker Posts: 239
    That seems like roughly a gallon or two in savings per tankful, so the payoff would be real... $1.25 for a treatment, versus $3.09 for a gallon of diesel.

    What do you see for the price of the treatment? About 8 onces/tankful?

    KenB :shades:
  • jemepajemepa Posts: 4
    Hi everyone,
    I just change oil,filters and also fuel filter.When I try to start my 2002 sprinter it didn't start.I looked at the Clear fuel line There is no fuel going in to engine.Can any one knows anything about this problem.
    Thank You.
  • rtohrtoh Posts: 2
    It is a good practice to fill the new fuel filter with diesel or diesel additive before installing. This saves the fuel pump from working extra hard to get the fuel into the system.
  • bertmbcbertmbc Posts: 8
    I'm designing the interior for my newly aquired Sprinter and would like to hear other design thoughts.

    Using the second battery thread info, I'm adding a second battery, invertor for 110v. I think i'll have a shore power outlet and switch to change from onboard to shore power.

    My Sprinter is 140" hightop. In th rear space I'm going to mount one 36" flush door and one 30 0r32 " door on hinges so they will fold up against the side walls, out of the way.

    This platform will receive a queensize inflatable mattress.

    I'm going to install a dorm refrigerator and microwave. I don't know about builtin's but am looking at stock closet stuff. there is a wide array of shelving and drawer units available.

    I'm looking for sliding or vented windows for the rear or sliding door unit.

    I don't intend to fancy it up to commercial RV standards but do want it to allow extended travel convenience. No carpet or fancy wall treatment. I am wondering about insulating the roof.

    Just a few thoughts for discussion....
  • jemepajemepa Posts: 4
    Thank you for respond.
    I removed the little screw on top of the filter and sucked the fuel with small hose and I know filled the filter.When I crank the engine I don't see any fuel going from that clear hose.I am recharging the battery now so it will crank the angine little better.(I tryed it so many times.)
  • nescosmonescosmo Posts: 453
    Jemepa.... Next time all you have to do is to open the switch key and you will notes a noise, that is the siculating pump. Let it be for a few minutes and it will prime it self. Then close the key and start the engine and up up and away the engine will start.
  • jemepajemepa Posts: 4
    Hi nescosmo,I tried what you told me to try but no pump sound.They have the pump on the tank,right?Is it possible when I disconnect the fuel line from filter some how fuel pump is shut off?I check the fuses,they are fine,I just fill up the tank,recharge the battery,I disconnect the battery hoping it would reset something but no luck yet.I remember reading few funny things about 2002 sprinter electronics.
  • nescosmonescosmo Posts: 453
    Jemepa..... It should work some times you can not hear it and sometime make a wisiling noise. as far as i know there are two pump the low and high pressure pump. the manual tell you how to do it and that is the way to do it. read the manual is there.
  • hawk8hawk8 Posts: 31
    For windows try or
    ask Jeff Kemp > to email you more info. we'll be ordering from him.
  • jemepajemepa Posts: 4
    I checked everything,went under the van to hear any pump noise,disconnect the hose from fuel filter to see if it will pump fuel in a bottle but no luck yet.How is it possible that simple filter change causes a pump failure? I am still appreciated for you guys help.
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