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Dodge Sprinter

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Comments

  • altered3altered3 Posts: 59
    I could not say it's a bad mark for the Sprinter [Cruise control] as it's an option, and clearly indicated as such, along with the rear electric powered side vented widows, controlled via a dash switch.
    The kit can be ordered but has to be dealer fitted for a DRB reset of computer assist, if you chose this option.
  • cornjoliocornjolio Posts: 5
    You can have the dealer adjust your spedo so it registers properly (I believe so). Did you replace the stock steel rims with steel or aluminum? If you found aluminum rims let me know..I want them on my 04 3500 duelly. How did it go? what did you have to pay for all this? thanks. Joel
  • punter1punter1 Posts: 50
    Dealer says no more extended Cargo 170s until 2008 model year. 2008 to begin manufacture in August and orders will be taken then as well. Anybody else hear any of this?
    .
  • kendall69kendall69 Posts: 13
    Yes the front air wil lkeep the "cab" cool, and maybe the first seat behind the driver, BUT after that absolutely NOT.
    I just hauled 8 kids from my daughters classlaste Friday and it was 110 and everyone from the first seat back was screaming for cool air. My rear air is disabled for the last 8 weeks due to a broken belt ( at 140 miles with no new belt installed yet - parts problem)
    So if you are hauling people in the heat rear air is a must, if it's just you and a passenger, no need fo rrear air in the heat.
  • punter1punter1 Posts: 50
    The 2007 Sprinter has the exact same unit in the dash as the Mercedes M-class that a friend of mine has and which has a NAV. Same buttons and dials and all. There is no excuse for Dodge to not offer the NAV in the Sprinter - especially at the prices thay are charging.......
  • vancarvancar Posts: 5
    I purchased a 07 Passenger Van with a high roof. I have just completed a trip from Seattle to Las Vegas with and average of 16.6 mpg....does anyone have the same problem...I am doing around 65-80 mpg with a lot of mountainous terrain.

    Tony
  • altered3altered3 Posts: 59
    Tony which 07 model?
    New generation 07 model Gas or Diesel?
    Old generation model 06 plated Diesel which fuel are you using winter summer LSD or ULSD bio fuel ?
    dual rear wheel with front wide hub.
    at worst you should be getting 20 MPG
    If you have the new generation v6 model with a gas engine then thats what you get, as to the high rpm range to archive max torque.
    Altered Sprinter
  • Tony, I'm not doing any better with my new 07 high roof sprinter. I was told that I would get up to 25 mog which am no where near that figure, with my average being about 16 mpg. A real disappointment.
  • My high roof sprinter is a diesel which I forgot to mention. Still only 16 mpg.
  • altered3altered3 Posts: 59
    My question is simple, which fuel are you using ULSD 15/ppm or LSD 50pp/m or winter grade fuels with Hi Kero blends not recommended for the Sprinter.
    Do you use a added upper cylinder lubricant for ignition improvement
    The V6 is specifically designed for Euro Fuels and low ash oils fuel 10/ppm Not available in the states with the exception for LA and it's not for general passenger car sales! Government use only.low ash oil 5/40w for the particulate filters, it will run on B20 Bio fuel as all European models now have this mix as standard.
    Dual or single rear wheel, speed average 65 MPH will return 22 MPG once broke in at 10 thousand miles it takes a long time for the engine to break in and stop using oils.
    Altered Sprinter
  • kurt6kurt6 Posts: 22
    03 RV Forest River LWB-HS 2500 60K 50-50 City-HWY consistent 26-27 MPG.
    The basic rule:Use only 100% syn oil,preform all your maitenance (specially transmission every 50K,breaks and all filters {fuel&air}). Stay under 2000RPM and add 3lbs more air to all tire as recommended by MB.
    MB recommended tire pressure is for your comfort ride not MPG.
  • tidwellstidwells Posts: 5
    In cold weather, my Sprinter gives "Start Error" message on dash display and refuses to start. When I blow hair dryer under the left side of the dash for 3-5 minutes, it will then start. This only used to be a problem below 30 degrees, but now it has to be above 65 degrees. My Dodge dealer wants to change out the SKREEM module for about $1000. I'm handy with soldering and trouble-shooting electronics and looking for a cheaper solution. Any idea what the cause of this wierd problem could be? Thanks.
  • 2000_valk2000_valk Posts: 68
    I just got 4 new Michelin 225 75R 16 M/S series at discount tire. They put the recommended pressure in, 56 front 80 rear. The first time on the interstate the van was all over the road. It has sensitive steering to begin with. Seems that when you move the wheel at freeway speeds from side to side the steering is quick to respond, but the body has lag time.It is really hard to keep a straight line, And is super sensitive. If I had to do an evasive turn, I think I could end up on my side. I am not over loaded. I dropped the front down by 8 lbs each. Seems to be a big diff. I am wondering if I am giving the tires a quick death by under inflating! Other than that they are really smooth. They better be for 829.00 bucks. Any thoughts out there, Thanks, Tom
  • kenbakerkenbaker Posts: 239
    On my 2004 140" Passenger I run about 50-55 in front and 65-70 PSI in rear and the improvement in ride and tracking was very good.

    I had noticed with the factory pressures as I got it at the dealer (65 front, 75+ rear) that the Sprinter "followed" road irregularities severely.

    I now have 30K miles on the van and no strange wear. My Sprinter gets a variety of driving and loading. just me to work and back, full of passengers around town and across the state, cargo for school activities, long highway miles loaded for vacation (4-6 people + luggage). (never have had a trailer/hitch on it yet).

    I would think that 48 lbs each in the front would be slightly low, but perhaps your new tires are very stiff in the sidewalls.

    You certainly don't need 80 PSI in the rear unless you are running heavy (not over loaded, just near the top of normal). With radial tires, you are looking for correct side-wall flex as an indicator of proper inflation.

    The front tires certainly should not look like they are "spilling" over the tread area, but they should bulge a bit (less so on Truck tires than on Car tires). The rear tires will need to stand up a bit straighter so that they may handle the extra weight of cargo on the rear axle (if loaded down a bit). You obviously should NEVER have the pressure low enough to transition over onto the sidewall during a turn but yet it is a trend toward that ability that makes a "radial tire" a 'radial'...

    Bias Ply tires of the past maintained an upright tire profile, and lifted the inside edge of the tire during cornering, reducing contact patch size, grip, and control for the normal driver. Race drivers used this reduced grip to advantage in order drift corners so that they came out of the corner pointed in the best direction for the next straight-away.

    Radial Tires roll a bit so that the inside (nearest to inside of turn) edge is not lifted so much as the tread is shifted and the tread nearest to the outside of the turn rotates down to the road surface. Modern racers use the increased grip in corners to pull higher g-force turns and steer their cars through the turns, but at the risk of wearing out the tread/sidewall junction or transition area.

    When NASCAR was transitioning from bias-ply to radial tires they had many tire failures due to the drivers pushing the new tires over onto the sidewalls in the turns/transitions on the tracks. The tracks have become higher banked, partially in an attempt to maintain tire safety.

    For example, on my dad's Ford E-350 van we run 80+ when we pull the Airstream Trailer (26 ft.) and only 60-65 PSI when lightly loaded. He is in charge of the tire pressures and I cannot remember what he runs in the fronts (a bit higher when loaded due to the load leveling arms forcing some weight transfer to the front tires, and less for comfort when empty).

    It has been a long time since I used a bias-ply passenger car tire, but I remember that it was considered dangerous to mix them with radials... If you over-inflate a radial it becomes more like a bias-ply tire stiffer and more up-right in profile and less able to shift properly in turns (both ride and drive-quality suffer). If you under-inflate a radial it obviously wears the edges too quickly, but also flexes too much, heats up, and is in danger of blowout (ala Ford Explorers with under-inflated Firestones... OK at recommended (slightly low) pressures, but too easy to drop a little lower and wear/blow fast).

    Thanks,
    KenB
  • I suspected that the new motors would not do as well as the old 5-cyl with MPG. I just got back from a 2000 mile trip and averaged 26mpg. 2003 140shc passenger, about a thousand lbs of people and cargo, mostly 75-80mph interstate miles, with about 300-400 miles on dirt roads in the Cascade mountains.
  • vancarvancar Posts: 5
    Hi Altered Sprinter,

    I purchased a brand new diesel 2007 V6, 10 passenger van with a high roof, model 2500, rear wheel drive.

    I took a round trip from Seattle to Las Vegas, to Disney Land, back to Las Vegas, and back to Seattle. The total mileage was about 3500 miles. I put in about 185 gallons of Ultra low diesel fuel, not any biodiesel yet. My average is about 18.9 mpg. This included mostly on high way. I carried three adults and four kids, younger than 6.

    I hope that after my engine broke in, I can get up to 22 mpg. The first week when I bought this Van, I have a small problem with a digital fuel gauge. It did not show the tank was full even though I filled it up to the top. I took it back the my dealer and had it looked at. The machenic plugged it in his computer and read 17 mpg. He told me that he recalibrated it to 22 mpg.

    The fuel gauge still did not indicate the correct reading, and I got three miles short of the expectation.....

    Tony
  • altered3altered3 Posts: 59
    Hi Tony
    First off which final drive axle ratio have you in the back of the van 4.1 0r the optional 3.9 ratio
    Second do you have the standard dash instrument package or the hi line package optional
    There is a program that shows both MPG and KLMs this is for fuel and MPH.
    The problem we have is the way the Dodge site has it's figures on the V6 Engine and it's final drive axle ratios
    This is a major mistake. On the V6 you have a genuine 184 hp engine@3800 rpm
    Max torque 400 Nm @1600-2600 rpm
    You need to go back to the dealer and specifically ask which final drive ratio you have for your model automatic the engine and class to your 3500 should be 4.364 Gas 4.182 Manual which you do not have is exclusive to the six speed manual at 3.923
    get him or her to sort it out and don't let the sales rep play games your Dodge and Freightliner site is flawed, in part it may have a lot to do with the Vin number for protection against theft
    Hi tops will Give a slightly less Millage say 20 MPG low top sprinters 22MPG and that is at its worst.
    you need to know which EGR system you have have with the injectors 1600 PSi this covers LSD fuel not ULSD fuel 2000 PSi covers ULSD this will turn up on your 08 Sprinter if all states can produce and supply the said fuels at 15 ppm or 10 ppm CA has it for government vehicles but not yet available for public use.
    It takes time for the Sprinter to break in after your first designated oil change use the new 2.29.51 low ash oils only this increases your MPG by a further three percent, use the recommended fleece paper oil filter, for the same oils and this allows for a further 1 percent increase on MPG
    Also obtain the final ratios for the Automatic 5 speed and I will see if they are matched to Mercedes Specifications.
    There are no options for the optional final axle ratio with an automatic in your class of vehicle with the Passenger van.
    Engine based on the OM 642/32/DE/30 LA No one is qiute sure which engine you have or which EGR system is being used :confuse: PS if you were up high in the MPH range say 80 MPH plus , then that's to be expected My figures are based at 65 MPH no more low rpm at just under 3000 rpm
    Look at the back of your diff on the top bit of a tight fit, the maunufacture has the axle ratio on it .what are the numbers saying?
    Altered Sprinter
  • vancarvancar Posts: 5
    Hi Altered Sprinter,

    I was told that the axle ratio is 4.1, and I am clueless about the EGR system. My instrument cluster is very simple. It does not have any MPG. The funny thing is it gives me a digital reading of my speedometer which I can also see it on a regular analog speedometer. In a way it is a duplicate of the speedometer.

    You have mentioned something about a lubrication for upper valve...can you tell me more about that. It sounded like an additive that I need to buy and add into the tank at any fill up...

    Thank you so much for your help.

    Tony
  • altered3altered3 Posts: 59
    Hi Tony basically an upper cylinder synthetic lubricant is a
    Diesel ignition fuel improver.
    Not to make this complicated it helps to clean and lubricate the injectors, pumps and rings, cleans the fuel and prevents water from getting into your fuel increases your MPG, best of all after a few tanks latter the engine runs a lot smoother
    Where this product works is with poor or suspect fuels less carbon emissions saves on your DPF
    There are many products to be found some good others not recommended MB does suggest to use the products but Dodge won't say it;'s OK, go to any MB franchisee and they will sell the same product but with a MB label Amsoil is one We use Red Line RL-2 and RL-3 for winter fuels.
    use only ULSD fuel 15/ppm or if in CA LA try and find where to get hold of 10/ppm the government utilities have this fuel so search it out if your near this location Shell BP both have it and add extra additives but the fuel costs a little more a few extra cents a gallon , it's worth it.
    Richard
  • busrusbusrus Posts: 1
    Can you give me a little help? Where is the oil filter housing and what does it look like, how big is it, etc? I have not been able to locate it as yet. I have had the dealer do my first two oil changes but $200 a pop is a bit much.
    Thanks
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