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Infiniti I30/I35: Care & Maintenance



  • fgmyedfgmyed Posts: 6
    I bought my 1999 i30 new. I have always used regular. I was told the only time you should you should use a higher grade is if your engine is knocking. Despite what the dealer says, the hi tech electronics in cars today ( computer chips ) control all air and fuel flow as well as ignition timing. These cars today are so darn efficient compared to the old carburetor and points/ignition systems the computer makes adjustments for optimum performance. The only time you should use a higher grade is if your engine is knocking.
  • jaydhjaydh Posts: 16
    What should I expect to pay for 60K mi maintenance service on my 2002 I-35 Infiniti? What are opinions whether to take to dealer or to local shop. Dealer wants around $1,000 and local shop in area of $500. I think they are both rips. Half of the service is checking this and that. At 60K I still have original brakes. For peace of mind should I think about replacing serpentine belts at this time? Was told there are some minor cracks.

    Any opinions welcomed!

  • shiskashiska Posts: 16
    Welcome to the world of entry level luxury parts and service charges! IMO the time expended to perform all the services listed in the service booklet for the 60,000 mi. maintenance (except for the transmission fluid and antifreeze changes) should not exceed two and one half hours plus parts and lubricants.The tranny and rad can be done anywhere, but I would use the Nissan fluids, and,in fact, that is what I do myself. I am fortunate in that I can do most of the labour myself, but even if you can't you'll save money (use Nissan lubricants and keep your receipts if you still have warranty).Having said this I can assure you that the local dealer here would have no trouble reaching the 1K mark for this service if one were inclined to go there. Anyway, GOOD LUCK, and where are all the rest of you faithfull Infiniti owners!
  • al57al57 Posts: 67
    trying to help my dad,has I30 with 32000 miles,needs new brake pad front and rear,according to the mechanic the wagner pad numbers dont work for the I30..something wrong with the application? has anyone purchased aftermarket brakes,please provide type and #,or is this a dealer part only??
  • Anyone here do work on their own I35 and is replacing the rear brake pads similar to the front. What ref brand and part number you used. Thanks
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,408
    I'd say if you were out of warranty to go with a trusted independent shop---but go over the whole list beforehand and set your priorities.

    I say "out of warranty" because if you are still in warranty and say the indie shop puts in the wrong fluid into this or that, that could burn you on a claim. If the dealer can find evidence (wrong color fluid, stripped bolt, signs of sloppy work), he (or the extended warranty company) could use that to deny a claim.

    So if you ARE in warranty, you'd have to really trust your indie shop and make sure every "t" is crossed and every "i" dotted.


  • gomooregomoore Posts: 1
    What is the best grade to use for vehicle with more than 190,000 miles?
  • ferdi1ferdi1 Posts: 16
    Hi guys,

    I was wondering what is the standard tire pressure for the tires. I red under the armrest and it says 32psi but when i go to 32 psi the tires look very low to me ?

    I keep the rear tires at 34psi and the front ones at 38 psi ? Is that OK ?

    Also the max tire pressure for my tires is 44psi (That is what the writings on the tire says).
  • atma97atma97 Posts: 47
    32 psi is just about right for comfort and traction on this car. Higher psi will save on gas but less tire traction especially in wet weather. Since this car drives front wheels, I would keep the rear tires psi higher than the front tires psi for the traction purpose.
  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Posts: 765
    I run mine at 33 front, 30 rear. Seems to work pretty well; I have tremendous grip, even in the rain.
  • I bought me 2001 I30 new in Aug. 2000. My rear brakes have always squealed. I replaced both rear calipers, pads and rotors at 37300 miles and still had to do a complete brake job at 46200 miles. Today at 60000 miles they still squeal like all get out. But it is only the rear brakes. My wheels prevent me from inspecting the rotors without pulling the wheels and that is beyond my expertise at my age so I am stuck with my dealer. The car has always been garage kept and used for trips of 180 miles or more. I just doesn't get driven that much. I am going back to my dealer in a week or so to see what can be done. This is stupid.
  • atma97atma97 Posts: 47
    Just to eliminate brake squeak, I suggest to replace stock brake pads with Ceramic brake pads. The pads come with the car is Semi metallic ones. Their dust really make squeaking noise. Dealers do not carry ceramic pads. You can have them at brake shops like Sears. Try this link: Product.htm?catalogId=10623&productId=2008447&N=200742836+2000
  • george1960george1960 Posts: 1
    My check engine light came on and I took the car to a dealership where the service mgr. said it was the oxygen sensor warning. He said to replace it was $411.00 plus tax. I declined at the time because the part was not in stock. He also said it may not be a problem until I sel the car and need to get it smog certified. Has anyone else had this problem and if so what did it cost to repair/replace?
  • atma97atma97 Posts: 47
    edited May 2011
    I changed 4 Oxygen sensors on my I35 with $50 a piece (Beck/Arnley universal one). My friend who used to work in a Toyota shop did not believe those sensors would last but he helped me to replace them anyway. Now at 60,000 miles after the change at 100,000 miles, the warning light has not been back.
  • bostonguy1bostonguy1 Posts: 16
    edited May 2011

    My "Check Engine Light" (on my I35 with 70k miles) came on intermittently for awhile and my mechanic said that it was the O2 sensors. He said that although he could replace them (two sensors), he didn't have the test software required to test them. I waited until I needed an emissions test before going to the dealer. When I did the dealer replaced and test the two senors (there might be four in the car, not sure) and charged me $711.00.
    It fixed the problem.

    Note; make sure your first step in solving the Check Engine light is to insure the gas cap tightly on (i.e. 4/5 clicks)
  • I am thinking of buying a 1998 I30 with 108,000 on it. The only thing I really see wrong with this car is that it has a front valve cover leak that I think the dealer is going to fix for me. Both of the hood openers are bad and a fog light is out. With taxes tag and title out the door how does 4000 sound and why so cheap for a supposed luxury car and more expensive for used toyota and other imports?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,408
    that's not cheap at all. That's full dealer retail.


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