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Infiniti I35 Maintenance and Repair



  • After spending nearly 2800.00 on repairs with the parts changers, I happened upon a post about maf sensor cleaner. I decided to invest 7.00 on a can of maf sensor cleaner purchased at my local autozone. I removed the maf sensor and sprayed the sensor from both sides. I re-installed the sensor. It only took about 30 minutes to do the whole job. The car started and ran rough, the check engine light came on. After driving around for awhile it started to smooth out and run great. The check engine light went out and I tell you, the car is running like a new car. I am assuming that the computer had to relearn the maf sensor? I don't know. I do know this, it has been a little over a week and the car is running great. I hope this helps anyone with similar problems. Cheers!
  • Hi all,
    Haven't posted before. Have a 2002 I35t with 83K. Black/Tan. Great car for my commute (35 miles each way) even in Chicago winters.
    Recently did all 4 brakes and rotors and now am getting a whirring electric motor sound on start up and stop. Only hear it now that the weather has been nice and windows are down.
    I read a post a few years old that said it may be the ABS system doing self-diagnostics. Any opinions out there? Do I need to worry?
    Thanks for any and all input!
  • If the sound comes from the belts then either they are loosen or old. When weather is a little cold and humid, they make squeaking sound. I used a belt dressing spray bottle from an Advance Auto Parts store to spray on both belts and pulleys. They became very quiet after a couple days of driving.
  • pb13pb13 Posts: 3
    Hoping the experts here can help save lots of time trying to explain at the Dealer. 2004 I35, new battery, 87k miles, runs great once started. Full turn of key elicits a "click" with all panel lights displaying but no turning over. Click only. However, it is NOT the click sound when you have a dead battery. When I turn the key back and try to start again, it eventually will fire like normal... as if nothing were wrong. Now, I'm turning the key in rapid succession 10 or 12 times (this morning) before it will go, and it's now happening at every start... not just infrequently as it has over the last 40K miles or so. Previously, it was pronounced when the car has been idle for a while or on a decline parked position. Computer checks at 40K revealed nothing and the dealer was stumped. ANY advice would be helpful, as I may be stuck at my work parking lot tonight. (NOTE: When I've had a dead battery in the past, I had the "click" followed by the auto seat adjustment (or sound similar); this click is different, as in nothing happens post-click--it either fires, or it doesn't.)
  • HI I have the same rattling noise on accelleration. I have a 2003 I35 and it has been making that noise since I got it in 2006. I was told it was and octane issue as well, and I tried 93 for a while, and just like you, my car got better, however when gas prices went up I went back to 87 and now the rattle is back..... But now I have bigger issues, My car keeps shutting off... I was told it is a camshaft sensor gone bad... the only thing is they don't know which one so they want me to replace both....
  • I have the same prob and need an answer.... the thing is now it just shuts off while I am driving, it happend on the highway yesterday and I was so scared, I have a 4yr old that is always with me so now this is a hazard,,,,
  • ddscoddsco Posts: 1
    I do not know if you already fixed the problem. If not, it might be the bad starter relay. Let me know. Good luck.
  • Have you found a fix? I just got my 04 I35 back from being tested for a system drain, battery cable issues etc. and they found nothing wrong with it. it first happened to me when my auto light switch drained the battery one night. woke up to hearing my car making a loud clicking noise without anyone in the car! since then, intermittently has "teased" me that it won't start! sounds exactly like your issue.
  • pb13pb13 Posts: 3
    At least for now, the car is fixed. And, likely not the answer folks are looking for... as it resulted in a trip to the dealer and a new $700 starter. The explanation to me was some about the contacts of the starter relay (as referenced above). Because my choices were few, I acquiesced to the dealer and all "appears" to be good. Will keep everyone up to date. Thanks for the responses.
  • I have a 04 I35 with 67,000 mi. I'm having this exact same problem.I've had the struts checked and the mechanic said they were fine.I visually checked the front and rear mounts. they look o.k. the drivers side mount I can't even see.The passenger side is easy to get to.It looks like it might be sagging a little.I was wondering seeing this mount has round plastic disks on either side of the mount.Is the top of the mount suppose to be even with the top of the disk.Mine is below the disk by about 1/2". I'm having trouble determining if this is normal or not.
  • I have had the same issue with the rattling sound. ( spark knock) I have found that CHEVRON mid-grade gas tends to quiet it down. Also had the same problem with the cam position sensor.The car just shuts off while your driving.I have a code reader and it told me which sensor was bad.The sensor cost $90.00 and I replaced it myself in 5 min.You can buy a code reader these days for about $40.00.Mine cost me $70.00 but I bought it a couple of years ago.I also bought the INFINITI manual on cd for this car and it also gives resistance checks for these sensors.So you can tell which one is bad as well.You need to go to a different mechanic.
  • Just to add to my previous message. There was a recall on the cam position sensors. Something about the solder flux that was used during manufacturing of them. I think the recall was only on the 01 and 02 I35.I cant remember.You should mention this though if your taking your car to the dealer for repairs.Obviously there was a problem with the 03 and 04 models as well.They should recall all of them.
  • Thanks for the reply and info. I'm fortunate that I work at a university where they have a 2-year Auto Tech program. They kept the car on a monitor overnight with the auto light switch on as they thought it was a system drain. Found nothing wrong there and nothing wrong with any cables. The instructors were baffled and figured the next step would be to tear apart the starter. So far, no more trouble but at least I know where they have to look next! Thanks again.
  • My I35 had a broken driver's side power window replaced recently due to a break in. The glass repairman fixed it perfectly and even got the power up/down mechanism working again.

    I just noticed that the Air Con system no longer works. I can turn it on (all lights come on), turn it hot or cold, but nothing flows from the vent.

    Could this be attributed to something the glass technician did during the repair?
  • npriestnpriest Posts: 13
    Hello, again. Finally have a possible resolution to the grinding noise when turning right. I had Infinity check the wheel bearing on 2 separate occasions and they told me both times that it was fine. However, my front engine mount had collapsed and apparently many times THIS is the source for the grinding noise when turning or bearing right. Hoping for a miracle, I authorized the replacement of the engine mount and so far (fingers crossed) the noise has been eliminated. Granted, it's still temperate weather here and the noise was worse in extreme cold, but I believe this was the cure. If you're still having issues with the grinding, make sure your mechanics evaluate your engine mounts for collapse. Oh, by the way, it's a $500 job at the dealer. Ouch.

    Thanks to all who contributed.
  • Wow, good timing to see this post. I was going to make an appointment to my dealer since my 2005 I35 extended warranty will expire in May 2010. I need them to get it fixed before that time. Thank you so much.

    I reported this before and it is having this grinding noise in cold weather. Only turning to the right. It disappears about a few mins. Driver side front bearing was replaced with no luck. I hope this is it. I will call them up and ask them to check for "Collapse Engine Mount". Mine is doing it now since it is about 40 to 50 F in the Midwest lately. I will give it a try.

    Please report back how it goes after a while. It is a great car except this stupid noise. Did it cause any danger or other damages if the engine mount is "collasped"?

  • Replaced the passenger side engine mount.I found it online for$86.00. It took @ hour to change.On the bracket for the mount theres a bolt that face down and one that faces up.I had to take the wheel off and take the plastic fender well piece off to get up in there to get the bolt out that faces up.Other than this it wasnt a bad job.The old mount didnt really look that bad to me,but the new mount definitely corrected the problem.No more thud noise up front when hitting bumps.Problem solved.
  • npmnpm Posts: 3
    Has anyone replaced the driver side arm rest on a 2002 I35? Mine is torn and I would like to replace it but need some advice as to how to remove and replace this item. Any suggestions appreciated.
  • Hi, I have a I35, the check engine will come on for a couple of weeks and then shut off. Seems to go on when I jump on the gas pedal (I'm betting it's the O2 sensor).
    I've had the codes read by my local mechanic and he can't identify the trouble and says I should go to the dealer. The dealer wants $130 to do a diagnostic trouble shoot even before they do a repair. Sounds awfully high just ot read a machine code.
    I'm thinking of just replacing the O2's and see what happens. Anything else I should change while I'm at it?
  • valovalo Posts: 7
    Have the same problem with the same car. Same thing with my local mechanic and same thing with the dealer. Put a dose of Lucas fuel injector cleaner in the tank at the suggestion of someone else here and the light went out for several months, then back on again. Did that a second time with no result. Scheduled it with the dealer and the light went off the day it was due for testing.

    During one of its off periods the car passed the Arizona emissions test. Someone else suggested cleaning the MAF sensor with a commercial product. Will try that next.
  • I took it to dealer. They had it for 2 days. They said they couldn't duplicate the problem. I went there in the morning to drive with them. The mechanic was able to hear something. He said that it was exhaust system related. Exhaust is not included under warranty. Therefore, it is not fixed. My concern is: is it really exhaust or it is something else. They checked the engine mount and everything is good. I guess I will leave it the way it is for now and see if it will get worse before next May, which is when my extended warranty expires.
  • same problem..... comes on then just go off for a few weeks and then it's back.

    mechanic has run all and poses no mechanical problem and dealership would love to get you in and charge big $

    This has been a problem for the last year and I just put up with it.
  • Thanks for the feedback. I will also live with this problem rather than pay a dealer. But, from a previous car experience, I'm thinking I won't pass my annual inspection (omissions check) and will most likely need 2 new O2 sensors and maybe the other sensor. Anybody paid a dealer for this work? (how much $)

  • Invest in your own code scanner.Then your not at the mercy of some stupid mechanic or the dealer.Trust me it will pay for itself.$69.00 at advance auto. us-Code-Scanner-Actron_9090012-P_N3389_T|GRP2018____

    You can probably find one even cheaper on ebay.Just has to be ODBII.Not ODBI.
  • i've only had this happen to me once and it seemed to be right after i'd filled the car with gas. i now make sure i tighten the cap well after each fill-up. hasn't happened in over 3 months now so we shall see...
  • You may want to have your catalytic converter checked. I just went through a similar problem and replace my engine. Here's my scenario

    - i bought car used with 58K Km on it. At first oil change (64k Km) i was told no oil. Did oil consumption test and sucked back about 1 to 1.5 liters per 1000 km. Was told normal by NISSAN.
    -Also had light rattle around 1500 to 2000 rpm but was told most likely bad gas and to use premium (i used lower cost gas up to this point, 85k km)
    -At 96,000 km, re-did oil consumption test (same infiniti dealer) with same results as previously mentioned. This time not normal (documentation was different as well). This was in early 2007. NISSAN authorized a change of the short block under warranty.
    -Documents showed a $5,000+ cost for engine job.
    -Car worked good after this, but knocking still there. I never did more as dealer not to concerned.
    -January 2009 lost coolant due to broken pipe. some overheating and only time check engine light came on. Seemed to have fixed problem early enough and engine seemed OK.
    -Late 2009, sound seemed worse and wider range of RPM for rattle noise (diesel like).
    -Stopped at local mechanic, confirmed noise, seemed to come from rear heads (very audible inside of garage with hood up. also noise from timing chain area. Made appointment for monday inspect, until checking oil. Non on the stick. Left car.
    -Monday morning found coolant in 2 cylinders. Base estimate without totally dismantling engine at least $3000 with many unknowns. Decided used motor for $1,200 + $1,000 for labor + 5 to 600 extra.
    -I have 1 year guarantee, but to get it they had to find why problem occurred. They found the catalytic converter clogged (pressure differential to large across converter) upon opening up completely blocked and loose.
    -Spoke to mechanic and he said that " the O2 sensors should pick up these problems and if they start to go off, this needs to be checked otherwise crap is blown back into the cylinders causing these problems. This will cause temperature differential across the comnverter of as much as 500 degrees. Causing lots of problems, overheating of rear heads, increased oil consumption, coolant in heads etc.......

    - Moral of the story is, CHECK OUT THE catalytic converter (MY COST FOR NEW PART WAS $265). Seemed nissan had a lot of issues with these causing engine damage (replaced a lot of 4 cylinder motors on warranty because of this).

    Good luck.
  • I have a 1997 I30 with the right brake light that turns off when I step on the brake while the lights are turned on. What could be the problem? Is it the brake light relay? Where can I find it?

    Thanks for your help,
  • 59fan59fan Posts: 5
    You might want to just replace the bulb itself, Make sure that the new bulb is in its socket correctly, and make sure that the new bulb meets the OEM specs. My 2002 did the same thing, I just replaced the bulb and it was fine. :)
  • Hi Sparquee,

    WOW! That's a real horror story...I'll be selling mine for parts before I spend that type of money for repairs.

    Best of luck with it.
  • I have a 99 I-30. I'm the original owner and have always had the car serviced at either the local Infiniti or Nissan dealers. The car has been running fine until yesterday. When I started it, it was running very rough. There was a small amount of fluid in the drive. It had no odor of color. I was afraid to drive the car and called for service. I did drive the car to the dealer and it seemed to run much better after letting it warm up for a few minutes. The dealer is telling me today (after touting that I had plenty of life left in the car) that I need a new engine. Something about gunk around the timing celenoid? The car has 135K miles. I'm just shocked as I expected to be able to get another 50K miles out of the car. They are trying to cut me a deal on a new engine but I just think it should have lasted much longer than this.

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