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Infiniti I35 Maintenance and Repair



  • I just had to replace the motor mounts on my 2004 I35. The mount I had to get was quite a bit more expensive than previously thought because as it turns out, the motor mount has a sensor on it and we had to get it from Infiniti. The repair people ( not Infiniti ) had no idea what that sensor did. Anybody know?

  • mik5423mik5423 Posts: 7
    The mount is filled with a dielectric fluid, hence the wire going to it. Now as far as what it exactly does I'm not sure but I believe it has the ability to stiffen up the mount through the wire and the dielectric fluid during hard acceleration and possibly hard braking as well. I am curious to know how many miles are on your I35 and which mounts you had replaced and what you had to pay for them. I have 85,000 miles on mine and havnt had to replace these yet. only the side mount which dosnt have fluid in it. what kind of symptoms were you experiencing. Thanks.
  • Hello Wetshoe. Did you ever get a response to your inquiry? I am having the same problem with drivers side and passenger side floor getting wet.....Any insight you might be able to provide would be so welcomed!

    Thank you.
  • i have the same problem with my daughters 2002 i35. i am just starting to problem solve it. i don't want to spend $800 on a new controller if you have any further info please let me know. if i find a cheaper solution i will let you know.
  • Hi new to forum and had a few issues I wanted to get some info about:

    I have a 03 i35 and the light in the clock has been out for several months now. Not a huge deal but would at least like to see the time at night. Any idea on cost and if I can fix myself? I am not a mechanic but am technically inclined.

    I have the rattling noise from take off to about 40-50 miles an hour. Sounds like a loose bolt but have no idea where to look. Previous post seem to point toward a tensioner but not sure. Any ideas are appreciated!

    A few months ago I hit a bump and my speedometer went all the way to zero. For the next few week it would occasionally read the right speed but now the disk has flipped all the way to the other side so when I start the car it reads past 160. As I accelerate to highway speeds dial will go to about 120, then when I brake goes past 160 again. Would this be a bad sensor or instrument cluster? All the other gauges work fine.

    I also have the wayward sub that seems to work whenever it wants to. I checked connections in trunk and couldn't find anything lose so I have been dealing with it this far. I'm guessing the amp is going out.

    Please help! Thanx
  • Has anyone ever changed one out and if so what are the steps to follow
    My passenger side went out last week and these things cost a fortune at the dealer along with installing I found some on for less than $115.00 a pair
  • Had a headlight go out on mine also, but it was a broken assembly and had to replace the entire headlight. Was able to locate one from a junk yard and it has worked great. I know what you mean about it costing a small fortune so I hope the one I get will last a while. As far as installing one of these, something I learned while shopping for what I got was that you CANNOT touch the lamp. It will burn out quickly if you do and is hard to do without. About all I can tell you is be careful and good luck. Most people seemed to think it was a better idea to replace the entire headlight, instead of just the lamp. Might be worth checking to see what is available and the costs involved. Good luck.
  • Well I have the bulbs coming and I just found a business who said they would do it for $30.00 both sides because im changing the other one also
    so the brightness will be the same(CAR HAS 285,000 ON IT) THANKS FOR THE RESPONSE
  • Bulb Replacement

    CAUTION: After replacing a new xenon bulb, be sure to make aiming adjustments.
    Hold only the plastic base when handling the bulb. Never touch the glass envelope.
    Do not leave headlamp reflector without bulb for a long period of time. Dust, moisture, smoke, etc. entering headlamp body may affect the performance of the headlamp. Remove headlamp bulb from the headlamp reflector just before a replacement bulb is installed.

    Disconnect negative battery cable.
    Disconnect headlamp connector.
    Remove headlamp assembly.
    WARNING: Never service a xenon headlamp without disconnecting negative battery cable and with wet hands.

    Remove headlamp seal cover by turning it counterclockwise.
    Turn bulb socket counterclockwise with keep pushing, then remove it.

    Release retaining pin.
    Remove the xenon bulb.
    Install in the reverse order of removal.
    CAUTION: When disposing of the xenon bulb, do not break it; always dispose of it as is.
    Make sure to install the bulb securely; if the xenon bulb is improperly installed in its socket, high-tension current leaks occur. This may lead to a melted bulb and/or bulb socket.

    Turn the bulb clockwise (LH high beam) or counterclockwise (RH high beam).
    Remove the bulb.
    Install in the reverse order of removal.
  • How does the headlight assembly exactly come out?
    How many screws are there holding the fixture in
    I see 2 on the top Is there another one hiding you can't see
  • Unfortunately my database doesn't show this. Hopefully someone else here will jump in on this one....sorry...I'll keep looking for you.

    OKAY I'm back.

    See if THIS HELPS
  • My boyfriend replaced the light (he is gone now) but, if I remember correctly, I did some extensive searching for "how to" replace the light. Believe it was not that hard to find the information and it was very helpful. Seems there is a screw hidden kind of in the wheel well, behind or below the light assembly. Look up at the assembly, from under the car. Maybe he had to go in from the wheel opening to find it but access was from below the car.

    If you can't find the information I will look for it again.
  • See post #581---shows how to do it.
  • Hi there...I tried to search all of the boards before I posted, but it was almost impossible to find the problems that I was having..
    1) I started noticing a vibration noise when after I started my car and put it in gear....I could only hear it when I was sitting inside my car...if I put it in park and got out it wasn't like I could "hear" anything abnormal...I also started to notice a vibration in the steering wheel...I thought perhaps it was some sort of tire issue since I needed new $500 later and 4 new tires and alignment, I was hoping that the vibration noise and feeling would go hasn't...Now it seems as if the vibration is stronger...I thought perhaps it was a motor mount that I was feeling...had it checked and they said the mounts were fine... Any clue? Now for issue #2.
    2) Battery and Brake lights have started flickering off and on during driving the car. The car momentarily loses power, RPM's go down and I coast briefly and then power resumes...I thought it was the alternator but I had a new alternator put on a year ago on New Years Day! I also had to put in a new battery at the same time, so these aren't more than a year old. I drove up to my local Advance and they hooked it up for me..Alternator, Battery, and charging system came up fine...I could reproduce what the car was doing for the guy helping me and he said to take it to my local garage...I took it and left it for 5 days. The drove it off and on, put it on diagnostic machine and NOTHING!! The mechanic said he couldn't find anything codes besides an oxygen sensor.. I left and on my way home...yup, you guessed it...brake and battery lights flicker and car loses power...but it never completely goes out...Does anyone have any idea? I'm trying to avoid $$$ for all kinds of useless diagnostic tests that tell me my car is ok...has this happened to anyone else?? I hate to pay for another new alternator/battery if there is some underlying little problem that is hard to detect...Thanks so much...
    P.s... I am a 38 yr old woman that is by no means a car expert and I just hate the way the "guys" look at me when I walk into a shop...All help is GREATLY appreciated!
  • By the car has @158K miles...
  • atma97atma97 Posts: 47
    My car had vibration before and it turned out that one of the ignition coils was going out. So, I would check all spark plugs tips for any misfire in the engine. Normally, all six of them should look closely the same. If there is a misfire, the spark plug tip would be covered by dark grey charcoal or oil. If this happens, a mechanic can tell what need to be done.
  • Chuck-
    Can you please tell me the outcome of your above problem?! I am having the exact same problem after a very similar bumper accident. Have already replaced a sensor and fuse, computer has had 3 relearns..... What happened with your car? We're you able to find a reason and fix?

    Many thanks
  • wilson16wilson16 Posts: 20
    I was wondering if anybody has ever replaced the chain on a I35 and would it be worth the money $$$ to do so. The car is lien free and still runs well. It's started having a noise when idling so I thought it might be the chain getting loose
  • MrShift@EdmundsMrShift@Edmunds Posts: 43,660
    edited June 2012
    It's a big job and I'm not sure I'd jump into it just yet if I were you. If the noise goes away just off idle, then it might be a loose chain or a bad chain tensioner, but if you hear the noise off idle, it could be something else. It would be good to get ahold of a mechanic's stethoscope and see if you can isolate the noise.

    BTW, engines can run a long time with a slightly work chain but if it starts really making a racket, it's time to do it.

    Certainly with 300K miles, it's a distinct possibility that the chain is worn.

    Labor is over 12 hours, so it won't be easy or cheap. Depending on where you live, this is going to cost you north of $1500.

    That's not much of a used car if you tried to replace yours.
  • atma97atma97 Posts: 47
    edited June 2012
    You have to be sure it's the chain noise. Watching Youtube under "Honda S2000 Engine Noise", the noise is louder when engine is warm and revved up.
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