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Ford Excursion Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • roosmamaroosmama Posts: 28
    I have a 2000 'X' Limited with the 6.8 l V10 gas engine. AND I LOVE IT!!! I did have a problem with the idling until I found a really good mechanic. The only real problem I have had is with the door locks, but once the original ones were replaced they work fine. My unit has 121,000 km on it (Canadian, eh!). Yes it is hard on gas, I get about 19 miles to the gallon highway, but I have been told that the V10 is easier on gas than the 5.4L gas engine because it does not have to work as hard. Bottom line is that it is wonderful for long trips (the rear seat will semi recline) and with the third row seat out and the back seat folded down you can get a queen size air mattress in there!!! We pull a 28 foot loaded travel trailer with it and you don't even know it is there. The truck has room for all the kids and luggage with room to spare. Right now where we are gas is cheaper than diesel so personally I'd stick with the gas engine. The gas tank is 166L and I can go 8+ hours on the highway without having to stop for gas. So it would be your choice I'd say the 5.4 if you just want it for cruising and the 6.8 if you plan on towing. If I could find one built during the last couple of production years I'd grab it. Believe it or not I have had people come into my yard and ask if I would sell mine and the Ford dealer where I take mine for servicing says he has people who are looking for one - one of them being the service manager. Good luck with what ever you buy. These trucks are like hens teeth up here in Alberta.
  • porspors Posts: 2
    I was driving down the road and the engine just quit - no warning signs at all. Thankfully was able to pull into a parking lot. I tried to start it two times and it would start and then die. I waited about 5-10 minutes and it started up but ran very rough. Got it home and called the dealership. They had a lengthy wait to get it in so we kept it at home. Had it out on the road again and heard a louch screeching sound and it died again. Has been at the dealership for one week now and they say they don't know what is wrong (up to $2000 in labor troubleshooting thus far). Any ideas?
  • my 2000 excursion (7.3) started doing this a couple of years ago and it was the cam position sensor. I recently received a letter from Ford that there is a recall on the cam position sensor for the very reason you described. It sounds like your dealer is goofing on you, I called my mechanic when mine first started doing it and he said "cam position sensor, happens to lots of them", he didn't even have to see the rig to know what it was, the failure is that common. Hope this helps.

    Oh, one last comment. I read a post from a member that stated he gets 23 mpg on the highway and 18 in town, with his V10 excursion, DUDE you are so full of it. NO ONE has ever gotten that kind of mileage out of the v10, unless you've got 8 kids and they are pushing it 40% of the time.

    I own and still drive a 2000 excursion that I bought new, it has almost 200,000 on it and so far I've replaced the alternator, rebuilt the front end and replaced all the brake rotors, cam position sensor and that's it. I get around 16-17 mpg in town and have gotten as high as 24 on long trips with a tail wind. The vehicle is the best I've ever owned and very comfortable to drive long distances. It does however, have the worst electrical system I've ever encountered, bar none. I am planning on getting at least 350,000 miles out of mine, the sole reason for buying the diesel.

    To all you excursion owners, enjoy a truly awesome rig. I laugh everytime I see a good friend of mine because he has a 3/4 ton suburban with a 454 and get 7 in town and 10 on the highway, and I still have more pulling power than he does, poor poor chevy owners.
  • porspors Posts: 2
    I saw that cam position sensor recall but it looked like it was linked to the 7.3 engine. I have the 6.0.
  • roccosuroccosu Posts: 3
    i have an '02 2x4 EX w/6.8 v10. installed rotors and pads from EBC (www.efltd.co.uk/) rotors are GD7082 (slotted and dimpled) and are marked "R" & "L". pads are DP41308R (yellow, ceramic-Kevlar). excellent!!
  • roccosuroccosu Posts: 3
    my '02 6.8v10 has +/- 157k. use 5w20 as recommended. want to use engine flush at next oil change (every 3k-5k). does not burn oil. any drawbacks? recommendations?
  • chauce1chauce1 Posts: 1
    Hi, I have a 2001 Ford Excursion and have noticed that lately we have issues when driving the car will accelerate forward at times as well as having problems with the check engine light and the door ajar sensor, the left rear door won't respond to the unlock button on the key ring or in the car and the interior lights come on while I'm driving. The interior lights and running board lights stay on well after we have unloaded everything in the car. I have taken it to mechanic after mechanic and the dealership and they have said there is nothing mechanically wrong with it but that I am better off getting rid off it due to electrical/computer chip issues. I love the Excursion, we are a family of eight and would like to either get it fixed or trade foe a newer version. I find it hard to believe that nothing can be done. I saw a news special last summer that stated that Ford had recalled a chip in the truck that was causing the engine to lock, as well as some other malfunctions, but whn I asked the dealer in my area was told that they had not heard about that. Anyone have any suggestions or experiencing the same things?
  • pfteryl1pfteryl1 Posts: 12
    2000 4wd, 140k miles....I get intermittent severe front brake chatter even after replacement of rotors & pads....Almost like ABS application...it's been doing this for 100,000 miles...seems to be worse after long stretches of driving.....feels like something loose at its worst....nothing obvious....no chatter marks on rotors or pads....Any ideas?
  • wallzwallz Posts: 2
    as to your door ajar problem, while the door is open spray down the locking mechanism on the door with wd40 and close and open several times. The dust in there gums up the door ajar sensor. The sensors are on other vehicles external push pins somewhere on the door frame area, in the excursion they are built into the lock. You should also spray the back glass door as well, the sensors are in the glass door latch on driver side. (This is why the interior lights stay on, because of door ajar sensors) As to your left door not responding, it sounds like your actuator is toast. The actuator is what unlocks and locks the doors.(one on each door) As for the sudden acceleration issue, do you have the diesel?
  • wallzwallz Posts: 2
    Have you had the brake calipers serviced when you replaced the rotors and pads? could be worn calipers!
  • pfteryl1pfteryl1 Posts: 12
    there are a number of sources for cryogenic rotors (for 2000 ford excursion)....please respond by posting both positive and negative experiences

    Thanks
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,109
    Cryogenic tempering of rotors is supposed to reduce cracking and warping and increase their lifetime. I too would be interested in knowing whether anyone has real world experience with them.

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • bigtruck1bigtruck1 Posts: 7
    So are full synthetics totally out for this beast of a motor, or would a full synthetic 10w30 work? Did you just go back to conventional 5w30? When you switched back to the oil you are currently using did you flush the system out with and additional oil change or did you just go straight back to conventional. Is it just a myth that once you go synthetic you cant go back to regular oil? I havent been on this site for a while but anyone hear of the myfordpaintpeels guy? The top of my Ex is starting to rust out due to lack of freaking paint and it just keeps on blowing off!!!
  • roosmamaroosmama Posts: 28
    I never had synthetic in my beastie just the regular 10W30 (or 5w30 depending upon the season) that the dealer puts in her. I thought about going synthetic in it but it was too expensive. It does seem like if the oil meets Ford specs for this engine it is happy. That is why I don't fool around anymore with it. I found a good dealer and that is where I go. If you go to a 'Quickie Lube' , the oil just disappears. My dealer did not flush the system but it took until about the 2nd oil change before I really noticed the difference. Truck has not 'eaten' any oil since, but I am really careful to keep up with the oil changes and regular maint. being done on schedule....can't afford to put a new engine in this monster.
    I do know this for sure. The 'can't go back to regular after synthetic' is a myth. We were living in the Far North and got a new F150 right from the factory. Before we took delivery we had synthetic put in it because it performs better in extreme cold. A couple of years ago, after we moved back to civilization, we went back to regular oil in this truck. Believe me when I say that I grilled that service tech before I let them do it. Synthetic is expensive and we wanted to save some money on a truck that was getting older. "Blue" is now 12 years old and still runs like a top on regular oil. No problems at all after converting. Actually come to think of it we have had less trouble overall with the F150 compared to the Ex. :confuse:
    I have not heard anything either from the peeling paint guy. I have had some paint peel but it is very minor compared to some of you other guys.
  • belindapbelindap Posts: 1
    I was just reading this entry and noticed they were talking about sudden ecceleration issues and that is has recently started on my 02 6.0 diesel. Do you know why it is doing this and how can I fix it?
  • kammerudkammerud Posts: 2
    I have a 2005 Ford Excursion with the V10 i use for towing and as of late I have been getting a funny smell from the exhaust. I also got an emissions light that came on. I checked the error code and it stated lean bank one.

    Anyone have any reccomendations on how to fix this. Is the cat plugged?

    Thanks
    Shawn
  • I have been given two conflicting pieces of advice on fixing my Excursion that was recently wrecked on the front bumper, causing the bumper to pull to the right and cracking the front frame. The dealership would like to replace that front frame and another mechanic who used to work at the dealership says it can be welded and repaired. any advice?
  • roosmamaroosmama Posts: 28
    First you should know that I am an insurance broker and I was an insurance adjuster. Personaly I would replace the part. If this was an insurance claim in my part of the world it would be. The insurance company would demand it. That frame if 'welded and repaired' will never be the same as it was before the accident. It will have what I would call a weak spot and these are not light vehicles to begin with. I don't know how bad the damages are to your vehicle, or exactly where the crack is, but I never mess around with anything that could compromise the safety of my vehicle.
  • Sometimes when I start the 04 Diesel Excursion there is no power to this control panel. Does not light up so can not turn on the AC, Fan, check external temperature, or any of the panel controls. For the past year when this happens it will correct itself after a few days of starting and turning off the vehicle. Now it has been a few days. Has anyone every had this problem?
  • truktoytruktoy Posts: 4
    I've had the sme problem with my 2004 Excursion Diesel. Initially turning the key off and then on will restart power to the A/C panel. Eventually you will have to change the panel. Fortunately mine was under warranty.
  • I have a 2000 Excursion 7.3 psd -- with about 80,000 miles -- tow a 30 ft. Airstream trailer -- also had lots of worped rotor problems -- finally rplaced with Powerslot rotors and Hawk pads -- great -- about 5000 miles later -- also Edlebrock shocks to stop the bouncing after hitting dip in the road. I am in the middle of putting in a 6.0 trans cooler.
  • I own a 2000 excursion 7.3 and I can say the brakes just sucked. My brother in law owns a service center and I trust his work, he turned my rotors a couple of times and the brake cavetating always returned. At around 140,000 I had to do a major front end rebuild (ball joints, 4x4 hub bearing assm, etc.) and decided to replace all the rotors and pads. I did some research and talked to my dad (a true hot rodder from the 50's and 60's) and really didn't think the difference in price warranted the expense, what I did do was order a set of drilled and slotted rotors and pads from an outfit in So. Ca. I paid 299.00 for the entire set (DID YOU READ THAT) off of ebay, no problems since. My brother is a diesel mechanic at a gold mine in Alaska and he's not sure that freezing anything is all that good for it, unless you could keep it frozen most of the time. I love my excursion, yeah its got a lousy electrical system, but after 8 and a half years, I still love driving it, and nothing travels better. Good luck.
  • I have a 01 Ford Excursion v10 4x4 and it wont start. The radio and lights and locks and everything else works but it wont start. It started doing this a week ago. If I pull up on the shifter it would start or if I put it in neutral it would start. Now nothing works. Please help
  • Hello everyone, :shades:
    It's been a long time since I have posted anything on this forum. Sorry..... Anyway, I looked back to kinda catch up on what's going on with the Excursions. Looks like the brakes are still an issue; also the paint flaking off is another. I have had both problems with my 2004 Ex Eddie Bauer. Fortunately I had the paint covered by the dealer. (It helps to have gone to school with the service people) Paint on the front bumper and on the roof and above the back hatch is were I had problems. The brake rotors were cryogenic treated and they are holding up very well. I have 28000 miles on them. and no issues, just great braking and no warping. Most of the miles are towing trailers. Camping and Racing type. So I have put them to the test. Very Happy I had that process done to them, after I had so many problems with the brakes on the previous two Excursions I have owned. Now a new problem has popped up. The back up sensors quit working. When I put the truck in reverse the switch on the dash stays in the off mode and will not switch on. No warning beep anymore. Kind of bummed out with this. Anyone have any suggestions? Anyway if you need more info with your problems, I will be monitoring this forum often again. It's good to be back. Talk to you all soon. Andrew
  • Andrew,
    Thanks for the post. I have an 01 with 135K and I am on my third set of rotors and they are starting to pulse. What brand do you suggest. I am really tired of putting money into replacement OEM rotors. The only thing I can suggest on your back up sensor is to check the circuit, see if there is a fuse out, cut wire, and check each sensor to see if they are all getting current. That is all I have, I have never had an issue with mine. Thanks again for the post...
  • I also have a 01 Excursion Limited with 135K. I had an issue similar to yours and I replaced the cps,(crank position senso) and have not had any issues since. This was a recall last year and Ford actually rembused me for the cost I paid at a non Ford shop to replace it. Good luck have no other suggestions.
  • twtcadtwtcad Posts: 13
    Hello.....I do not remember the brand because I've had them for over 3yrs, but I ordered a set of dimpled, slotted rotors of Ebay for my '03 Limited 4x4 X. I bought my X used @ 45k miles and was one of the first purchases I made, almost immediately. I had purchased a different brand prior from a local speed shop for my Suburban and they worked really well. I looked on Ebay for a cheaper price and I could not be happier with the rotors I have. At first I used Hawk pad, expensive but worked very good. Now I'm using Wagner Severe Duty and wow, they are fantastic and a lot cheaper. Oh....I have never had any rotor warpage using these rotors and I'm an aggressive driver and I have around 60k miles on these rotors.! Just my 2 cents!
  • I to have the same problem with the backup sensors on my 05 limited. I have checked all the wires and fuses I am also hooked the truck on to a programmer to scan for errors and nothing comes up. Please let me know if you find a solution.
  • Hello fphilli1,
    I wanted to give you some info on the rotors. Sorry to say that the rotors I had cryogentic treated are OEM rotors. But they are great after I had them done. The company that did the process was a local cryogenics shop,. They have since went out of business because of bad management, can you believe that??? You may try a goggle search and see who will offer the Cryo. treatment and see how much they will charge you for the process. I bought new Ford rotors and had them done before I installed them. Back in 2004 the cryo process cost me $250.00 for all four rotors. I did notice that "twtcad" post #340 had purchased some dimpled, slotted rotors off e-bay and had some good success with them. Just watch out for the China crap. The rotors may cost more for some good USA aftermarket ones. But the China stuff is not so good from what I hear. :lemon: About the back up sensors I'm going to check the fuses and the wire circuits and see what I find out when I get a minute. Thanks for some suggestions for starters. If I find anything useful on my diagnostic testing, I will be sure to post the results. C/ya later Andrew
  • Hey thanks for the quick response. Do you know if you can have the cryo process done on rotors that have miles on them? I have read a couple of answers that said the process worked but no one said they had it done on the warped rotors they had on the truck. I have never heard of this process for rotors. I understand it we used a similar process to buff scratches off fascias when I worked at Ford. I will look for a local source. Did I mention that I had cyramic pads put on last time? The pulseating just started a couple of weeks ago. Thanks.
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