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Ford Excursion Maintenance and Repair

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  • Went through this issue with my 00 ex a few years ago. Check the "Bearing Hub Assembly", this is the unit that the wheels bolt onto. I think mine were 250.00 each and I replaced both at the same time. Mine failed at around 170,000 miles, at tthe time I also did the upper and lower ball joints, figured it was time to do some maintenance while it was down. Now have 225,000 miles on her (no engine work) and still love driving it everyday, hoping to get another 225 out of it, may be buried in it. Hope this helps.
  • rb08rb08 Posts: 1
    im on my second set of rotors and i just bought the best pads o rielys had plus turned the rotors and im still having a pulsation issue. anyone have a suggestion on what it may be?
  • Can you please give more info on your excursion, year, mileage, etc. Did you replace rotors with genuine ford rotors (yuck) or did you make the switch to aftermarkets. Have you checked ball joints and the bearing hub assembly (its the unit with the hub locks in it on each of the front wheels). I've been through the brake issues and turning doesn't help for very long, the answer was aftermarket rotors - front and rear, replaced all the ball joints (the pulsating beats them up), and both the bearing hub assemblies (one failed, decided to do both at the same time). It has now been 60,000 miles and no pulsation, ever. I bought all the parts on ebay and saved a fortune (4 drilled and slotted rotors with pads - 300.00, the bearing hub assemblies were 260.00 each, and the ball joints I bought at a local parts store. Hope this helps.
  • walt501walt501 Posts: 16
    Did you check, clean and re-grease the caliper slide pins with high temp silicon lube? Sticking slide pins can cause the caliper to hang up on the rotor.
  • walt501walt501 Posts: 16
    Did you check,clean and re-lube your caliper slide pins with high temp silicone grease? The caliper rides on these pins. In time they become corroded and either need to be cleaned or replaced. Also, the bore in the caliper the slide pin fits in must also be free of corrosion. Use a piece of Scotch Brite pad on the end of a drill along with some light weight oil to clean the bores. If your slide pins haven't been serviced recently, I'm guessing that is your problem, as the caliper actually floats on these pins. Corrosion causes the caliper to freeze to the pins which will lead to the problems you're describing.
  • walt501walt501 Posts: 16
    Actually, F250 mats are not an exact fit in an Excursion. I recommend WeatherTech mats which are quite durable. You can find them at autoanything.com
  • walt501walt501 Posts: 16
    edited April 2010
    Actually, Ford doesn't have a problem, the guy with the impact wrench putting your wheels back on after the brake job is the problem. There is a specific torque value for the lug nuts on the Excursion - around 155 to 165 foot pounds. Gunning down the lug nuts with an impact gun gives you uneven stress on the rotors leading to premature rotor failure. The solution is to purchase a >long handle< torque wrench (available at Sears) and do the final torque on your lug nuts YOURSELF each and every time a wheel is removed from the vehicle! I carry my torque wrench and appropriate socket and extension with me where ever I go. Also, when torquing down the nuts on each wheel, do so in a star pattern so you gradually apply even torque around the wheel. Get ready for a workout, you have 32 lugs to do! I have the shop put my wheels on lightly, leave the center caps off, and then park it. They'll often want to watch to verify that you've torqued them down correctly - I have no problem with that. So, do I have any proof that this works? Well I bought my truck used after the Firebomb recall so unfortunately my front brakes were replaced under warranty at 28,000 after being hit with the impact wrench curse. After that, all my lugs have been torqued down by myself each and every time a wheel comes off my truck. I just replaced my brakes last fall with 118,000 on the truck - the fronts had 90,000 miles on them without a problem and my original rear brakes were still good! Note, this advice applies to each and every vehicle on the road. The sooner your wheels learn to avoid the impact gun, the sooner you'll stop having so many brake problems.
  • I have a 2003 Excursion with a V10 and every time it rains it runs rough and stalls. The transmission light on the dash also comes on. Runs great when its dry. Anyone have same problem?
  • daddy818daddy818 Posts: 18
    I saw your post and had to grab the manual from my 2000 EXC., in the owners manual it states 1/2" dia. wheel stud lug nuts should be torqued to 100 ft/lbs. and 9/16" dia. wheel stud lug nuts should be torqued to 140 ft/lbs. I do all of my own brake work and any other work that doesn't require any special or heavy duty shop tool(unless the cost of the tool is far less than the labor would be), and when I measured the studs they were 1/2" so I only torqued to 100 ft/lbs(even though that didn't seem like enough for a vehicle this size) and have not had any problems so far. There is one other issue(at least) that some people may not realize when doing their own brakes, you need to make sure to clean(wire brush,etc.) the inside surface of the rim that sits against the rotor hub and the rotor hub itself to make sure to remove ANY scale or debris that would prevent these 2 surfaces from sitting perfectly flat against each other, just thought I would note this. I was just curious where these 155-165 torque specs came from ??(reason being I have an Exc. and want to be positive these wheels are torqued correctly). Thanks in advance for any input.
  • daddy818daddy818 Posts: 18
    Totally different issue that I haven't seen addressed in this forum, when Exc. sits overnight, or for a couple of days, and then you try to start, it will crank for a while and not start, if you try to start it immediately after first attempt, it starts right up. My guess would be there is a fuel check valve that is failing and letting the gas flow back towards the tank when vehicle sits for a while, so that when you try to start it again the fuel has to be pumped back up to the injectors again which is why it won't start right away. Is this correct and could this valve be part of the fuel pressure regulator or is it built into the fuel pump in the gas tank or am I incorrect and its something entirely different ?? I plan on replacing the fuel filter first but I don't think that is causing the problem. Any input is appreciated. Thanks in advance :)
  • nukefordnukeford Posts: 4
    A quick tip for Excursion owners--next time you are under your vehicle check the A/C line that runs along the passnger side. The top (thinner) line runs the whole length of the vehicle. Don't know for sure if it's a design error but the line rubs against a piece of metal by the rear wheel until it pierces through. The dealer wants 800.00 bucks to fix it!!!! My 2001 has 160,000 miles on it and I have had to put 7000 into repairs the last nine months--dump yours while you can. My Honda civic has 134K with about 200 bucks in repairs
  • bionutbionut Posts: 9
    Just my two cents worth: I can appreciate your frustration, but it is not fair to blame the X. Yes, they have some design flaws, but what vehicle doesn't? So much for Toyota being perfect! The Excursion is a heavy duty vehicle that has a specific purpose, such as hauling a lot of people or a heavy payload. They were never designed for one or two people to just cruise around in. That is what your Civic is for. But try putting seven adults in your Civic and taking your 30ft camper to the lake sometime. Again, not trying to pick a fight, just flipping to the other side of the coin.
  • twtcadtwtcad Posts: 13
    Rotors have been covered many times on here........I have an '03 4x4 X w/ 7.3l that I bought used w/ 45k miles, shortly after I replaced factory rotors w/ a slotted/dimpled rotors off ebay for somewhere around $300 w/ Hawk pads..........my X now has 135k and I am an aggressive driver and she will still stop on a dime (figuratively) and the rotors are still in great shape.......no vibration at all. Any truck/suv I purchase, that is the first mod I do is replaced the rotors, huge difference in stopping power. I have recommended this ebayer to many people and I have never heard a complaint back, so much so I should be getting a kick back.....lol I keep him saved in my favorites just for when I need it...........
    http://stores.ebay.com/id=77318915&ssPageName=STRK:MEFSX:SST
    Also, some other great advise on here...........make sure you clean and lube the caliper slide pins and the torquing of the lug nuts is a very good idea as well even though I always use my air gun, but mine is on the second lowest setting (ingersal rand) and I put them on in a star pattern, run them snug first and then tighten up. If you insist on using an air gun, make sure you star pattern it and more isn't always better, don't have your gun on the highest setting! Just my 2 cents!
  • I am looking to purchase a 2000 excursion V10 4x4 with almost 200,000 and I am wondering if anyone or you could let me know of some things to look for that you yourselves may have run in to. Also if you dont mind my asking how much was the MAJOR tune up? Im think that may be one of the first things I do to the truck just to get some more life out of the big beast.
  • washawtawwashawtaw Posts: 1
    I have 114000 miles on my 2000 excursion and last week while traveling I noticed that it was using oil. It has always used about 1/2 to 1 QT between oil changes but never 3 QTS in 1500 miles. There is no black smoke out the tail pipe and there is no evidence of a leak. I have been told that the oil is evaporating and am haveing trouble getting my brain wraped around that concept.
    I read on another post that the PVC valve might be the problem. So I took a look at the valve cover and figured out where the PVC was located.. I removed the hose and attempted to take the PVC valve out of the cover. Could not get it out. Did not want to force things. It might be threaded. Any one else have the excessive oil consumption??
    Any one know if the PVC valve is possibly the problem and how to remove and replace it???

    I would appreciat any help that you can give me.
  • roosmamaroosmama Posts: 28
    I have a 2000 Ex with the 6.8L as well. It has 148,000 km on it. Truck was using or loosing oil a while ago but has stopped. To be honest when it was happening I was crawling under the truck looking for a leak. It was actually my local Ford dealer that knew the problem. I took the truck in for a tune up and told them that the truck was using oil like mad. It was at the add oil and check the gas stage. Ford did a major tune up and told me the engine had the wrong type of oil in it. Sounds strange and I thought I was getting a line, but I am no mechanic and it appears to be true. Worked for me. Something to do with the specs for Ford oil as opposed to the Quickie Lube stuff. I was told that that engine gets pretty hot and oils that are not up to snuff will break down and burn off at a faster rate. So now the only place I will go for an oil change is to the dealer. The only other thing that I can tell you is that I know that the weight of the oil is different than what goes into my F150. The half ton gets 10W30 and the X gets 5W20, if I recall correctly. All I can say for sure is that my Ex does not loose oil anymore, even when pulling the 30 foot travel trailer. Call me nuts if you like, all I know is that my truck goes for regular oil changes and scheduled maintanance at the local dealer and no longer uses oil.It does not stall and refuse to restart, it idles in the coldest weather, all the problems I have had with this monster truck are gone. Runs and purrs like a happy kitten. :shades:
  • 45cal4545cal45 Posts: 3
    I have a 2000 and I love it , but be forewarned that all repairs are costly in three years I have had it I put in almost 4000.00. For me it was worth it. I have 170,000on my truck.
  • blesterblester Posts: 1
    Rear blinker on 05 excursion haveing problems. checked fuse and bulbs both are ok. after checking blinker runs fine for 5 to 10 seconds. Then blinker indicator on dash shows solid ( not blinking). No blinker in the back. Pull bulb out and replace with the same bulb, and it may work fine for a couple of minutes then back to solid.
  • suvluva34suvluva34 Posts: 2
    I HAVE A 2000 EXC. I CAN START MY TRUCK IN THE MORNING AND DRIVE ACROSS TOWN GO IN THE STORE FOR ABOUT 30 MINS. COME RIGHT BACK OUT TRY TO START IT AND I GET NOTHING IT DONT TURN OVER OR ANYTHING ALL MY LIGHT AND EVERYTHING IS WORKING I HAVE BATTERY POWER BUT IF WAIT ABOUT 3HOURS IT STARTS RIGHT UP... WHAT IS THE PROBLEM PLEASE HELP ME!!!!!!!
  • 45cal4545cal45 Posts: 3
    I believe it is called a regulator if you are looking at the truck it is a small black box on the left side of the engine costs about 45.00 at Napa.
  • roosmamaroosmama Posts: 28
    Yup that would be it. The one on my truck had problems. It was overheating and nothing would work until it cooled down. Mechanic actually burn his hand when he reached under hood and touched it after Ex was towed in.
  • tony147tony147 Posts: 1
    can you give me a part number cause my excursion is doing the samething
  • roosmamaroosmama Posts: 28
    Without trying to find the invoice for the exact invoice...It ran me around $600+. Biggest cost was that they pulled out and cleaned that PVC value that everyone talks about. Thing was stuck. Then replaced all 10 spark plugs. I asked what they did to get the monster running so good. It had been running so crappy that I was going to trade it in. All the service manager could tell me is that they have one guy who is a master mechanic who specializes in the big trucks with their large engines. I don't know. I am not a mechanic. All I do know is that ever since I started taking the truck to them - she purrs like new.
  • Not to be a jerk I just want to make sure you are talking about the correct part, its called a PCV valve and it only costs 8.00 at just about any parts store sometimes cheaper. It should be replaced not just cleaned and put back in, again I do not mean to upset anyone I just want to make sure we are all talking about the same part. But for plugs, the 600 bucks sounds about right.
  • walt501walt501 Posts: 16
    Remember, Ford INCREASED the wheel torque after the Firebomb tire recall. Owners were given an insert on wheel torque to place in their owners manual. So, your owner's manual is NOT the place to look for wheel lug torque. Check with your dealer so you get it right. FYI, all new SuperDuties have the lug torque value stamped into the end of the lug nuts. And remember, keep the air gun away from your lug nuts if you want brakes that last!
  • quickfordsquickfords Posts: 18
    I was under the truck preparing to remove the Y-pipe to install the SPD y-pipe kit (to remove that stupid rams horn obstruction) and I discovered why my exhaust leaks. It turns out that AT LEAST TWO studs mounting the manifold to the head are broken!! On the LH side, it's the lower #4 cylinder and on the RH side it's the #3 lower stud.
    This truck has never been worked on other by me and never had the manifolds touched!
    WHY would Ford send this out the door?? To me this is ridiculous!! I would never fix a car like this, why would they BUILD one defective?!
    If you have a 2000 (or similar) V10, i am curious if you too have broken studs. I am ordering new studs from Ford today to fix and strongly suggest they give me everything for free since I have to provide the labor.
  • bja1bja1 Posts: 1
    looking at buying an 2003 x with the powerstroke 6.0 heard they had head stud issues is htere a fix or cross my fingers
  • AFTER SPENDING ALOT OF MONEY WE DISCOVERED ONE OF THE BRAKES WAS DRAGGING AND AFTER A FEW MILES WOULD HEAT UP AND START DRAGGING AND MAKE THE CAR PULSE OR SHIMMY. I ALMOST BELIEVE IT WAS THE EMERGENCY BRAKE THAT WAS DRAGGING.
  • walt501walt501 Posts: 16
    You heard right. The cylinder head studs on the 6.0 diesel engine are torque to yield bolts. These bolts also go through the valve train, fastening both to the block. Eventually (around 120,000 miles from what I read) the bolts weaken and you develop leaking head gaskets. The cure is to install studs in place of the bolts. ARP head studs are the common cure, but you're looking at a lot of expense removing/replacing cylinder heads to fix the problem. I'm also seeing that most say the 6.0 diesel engine needs a coolant filter to promote longevity. The Excursion is a great vehicle, but I recommend you find one with the 7.3 diesel engine if at all possible. The transmission used with the 7.3 can be a problem, especially if you tow heavy. There are upgrades you can do to this transmission to help it last. Check with "thedieselstop".com for more information.
  • daddy818daddy818 Posts: 18
    edited October 2010
    I was checking the wife's 2000 gas V 10 Ex for an exhaust leak today and found the same result you did, there are 3 studs broken, all on the drivers side, I can see that these are studs with nuts on them, not bolts ( both studs for the 4th cyl. towards the back and the lower one for the 5th cyl.). Now I'm wondering how long before another 2 or 3 snap off (they look really puny to be used on this engine). Did Ford give you the studs for free?? and it looks like the cylinder heads are aluminum, how hard was it to remove the studs and did you use any special tools or products/methods to remove them without them snapping off at the cyl. head, I want to do this myself but do NOT want one to break off in the cyl. head, that would be a nightmare to have to tear the engine apart to replace a stud. Thanks for any and all help/advice you can give me.
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