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Ford Excursion Maintenance and Repair

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  • Wallz,
    I don't know if you'll get this, but thanks a lot. This solved my door ajar and interior light problem. Amazing what a little liquid wrench will do;)
  • swallisswallis Posts: 1
    edited August 2011
    I completely agree, in our excursion v10 the brakes are ****, we had a collision because all traffic suddenly came to a stop and our truck couldn't stop. We are going to have a little dispute with ford about this. We have never had this problem before on any large vehicle. It's ******** on ford and looks like we are not getting another excursion, looks like either a suburban or new Durango
  • walt501walt501 Posts: 16
    So your Excursion brakes are bad? Really? I assume you've followed Ford's procedures for maintain your brakes that include, but are not limited to the following -

    >Torque wrench used to maintain proper lug nut torque, not Bubba at the garage using the air gun to jam them on, thereby distorting the rotor and leading to pulsating, diminished braking force and shortened pad and rotor life?

    >Slide pins cleaned and lubed annually to ensure even braking force and prevent calipers from hanging up on the slide pins leading to reduced braking effectiveness?

    >Proper components used that meet Ford's specifications whenever brake work is performed?

    My original Ford brakes - pads and rotors - lasted to 110,000 miles and provided excellent braking effectiveness. Of course, I knew how to maintain them. Make sure you have all your receipts showing you maintained your brakes to Ford's exacting specifications when you have your "little dispute".
  • I have had the same chattering problems as everyone else. The most recent time I worked on the brakes I replaced the rotors, calipers, and pads. While doing the job I also replaced the caliper pins -- could not help but notice that the two pins in each caliper are NOT identical. Does it make a difference which pin goes in which hole? I assume that it does or else they would be identical. After a few thousand miles the chattering is back. Hard to believe there's not a "permanent" fix for this.
  • Hello,
    Haven't posted in a few years. The damn brakes on the EX are undersize for the weight of the vehicle. (My Opinion) Anyway I have owned 3 Excursions and all of them have had some sort of braking problems. I cryogenic treated my rotors and that prevented them from warping. I currently have 40k on them now. With no problems. I have seen posts from others that bought rotors with slots and dimples in them off e-bay I believe. They have had good results with them. The old posts are back in the archives for reference. I would like to know of a good brake pad that is aggressive and will stop the beast better.
    C/ya Andrew
  • I've posted about excursion brakes before, I have an 00, ex with the powerstroke and its an awesome rig, I will have owned and driven it for almost 12 years now and am nearing 250,000 miles.
    I will tell you this, don't buy ford parts, they suck and are way overpriced, I've had aftermarket rotors and pads on mine for the last 95,000 miles and still haven't replaced the pads, best part is that I bought all four rotors with pads for 300.00, less than ford wants for just the fronts.
    If your ex is cavetating only during braking, then its the brakes, if its pretty much all the time, check the bearing hub assembly (what the rotors mount to on the front), I had one fail and figuring if one was going bad, the other was probably close, so I did both, also replaced the upper and lower ball joints at the same time and have had no issues since.
    I won't buy any parts from ford since the local service writer quoted me 1700.00 for all four rotors and two bearing hub assemblies, and then got mad when I asked him how ford could sell excursions for $50,000 when they obviously had $75,000 worth of bearings in the things. I haven't let a ford dealer near my ex in the last 8 years, and won't.
    Good luck, hope you get your problem solved and always remember, ford was smart enough to cease production of the best SUV ever built, and we are lucky enough to own one.
  • I'm looking at buying a used excursion 2000 limited with 158k and the 6.8 V10. My wife and I have 4 kids and do a lot of vacationing and currently have to take 2 cars on trips our either the baby gets to go stay at grandmas house. I'm going to test drive it today so any advice on things to look our listen for would be very much much appreciated. :D
  • nukefordnukeford Posts: 4
    The trans went out in my Excursion at 152k--smell the trans fluid. If it smells burnt the trans could be going. Also check the tires for sporadic feathering of the tread. I's about time for alot of those front end parts to be going out. Make sure all the door locks work at each door including the rear.
    Turn the radio on for a while. Some of the CD players overheat and malfunction or the radio will start searching for stations all by itself once it warms up. CHECK THE OIL PAN. See if it is dripping-push on it to see if it is soft. Excursion oil pans are rusting through and it is a couple thousand to fix because of the labor involved.
    GOOD LUCK
  • pfteryl1pfteryl1 Posts: 12
    Regardless of all the supposed miracle cures for the front brakes, be prepared to replace pads & rotors every 10k miles or less. The engineering is inherently defective. Too small plus woefully in sufficient air cooling of the assembly. For every story of normal brake wear, there are 100 failures. The EX brakes heat up without even being applied because of lack of cooling, particularly on long, high speed trips. Perhaps worse with 4WD
  • walt501walt501 Posts: 16
    edited May 2012
    My original brakes on my Ex lasted 110,000. Miracle? Nope. It's called a TORQUE WRENCH and Ford says the lug nuts MUST BE TORQUED TO 165 foot pounds! Failure to do so will apply uneven stress to the rotor and create hot spots, formerly mislabeled as rotor warping. After being replaced at 110k miles, my current rotors and pads now have another 50,000 miles on them without issue. I recommend you purchase a long handled torque wrench from Sears and carry it in your vehicle at all times and use it! Leaving your lug torque to Guido with the air gun and the overly aggressive trigger finger is a recipe for early brake failure. Also, the calipers use the common slide pin design. These pins must be kept lubricated with high temperature grease. In the rust belt that can mean lubricating the pins every year. Follow these two recommendations and you too can have Miracle Brakes like me!
  • kyfdxkyfdx Posts: 27,991
    165?!!

    My car specs 88 ft/lbs.. (not an Excursion..)

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  • hey guys anybody have some advice to getting a stuck oil filter out iam haveing a problem removeing it its frozen
  • bionutbionut Posts: 9
    It's kinda messy, but I usually drive a big screwdriver through it to use for a handle. You can drain a lot of the oil out first by drilling a small hole in the bottom.
  • twtcadtwtcad Posts: 13
    I'm assuming you have the v10 per your name, so I can not say specifically. But I have the 7.3l, w/ a huge filter and I punch a hole in the bottom w/ a punch or screwdriver and hammer to drain the filter. Then you can either drive a screw driver thru it as was mentioned above or I use a huge pair of channel locks, they work great. Also not to be a smart [non-permissible content removed], but make sure you are using the righty-tighty/lefty-loosy rule.....you should be turning counter clock wise. And remember once you are ready to put the new one on to fill the filter at least 3/4 full and smear new oil on that gasket, that will help a lot in keeping it from getting stuck in the future. Good luck
  • One other thought for a "Stuck oil filter", I'll do the punch the hole as last resort cause once you put a hole in the filter, you will compromise the intergrity of the filter and sometimes you end up tearing the metal right off the base, then you are really up the creek!
    One other thought for a "Stuck oil filter", I'll do the punch the hole as last resort cause once you put a hole in the filter, you will compromise the integrity of the filter and sometimes you end up tearing the metal right off the base, then you are really up the creek!
    I recommend getting an oil filter wrench (~$10), the ones that match the bottom of the cans are light duty, but there are also some that lasso the oil filter and tighten up and give you leverage to break it loose. Once you get the filter off check the metal contact surface that the rubber gasket on the filter hits, make sure this is smooth, pre-lube (with clean oil or grease) the rubber gasket before you reinstall the new one. Also I only tighten the filter as much can I can with the grip of my less dominate hand usually about 3/4 of a turn past snug "for me it's my left hand" since I'm right handed.

    Good luck!
  • steverstever YooperlandPosts: 40,171
    edited August 2012
    less dominate hand

    That's a neat trick. I changed the oil in my minivan this afternoon and after oiling the filter gasket I hand tightened it pretty snug with my (dominant) right hand and then backed it off an eighth of a turn or so. Will try it your way next time.

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  • donc7donc7 Posts: 1
    Starter grinding on my fly wheel. I had the fly wheel changed and new starter put on. A year later its doing the same thing. Any help will do!

    Thanks Don
  • I HAVE A 2000 FORD EXCURSION AND EVERY TIME I TURN IT SQUEAKS VERY VERY LOUD AND IT'S VERY ANNOYING....WHATS CAUSING THAT? :confuse:
  • bionutbionut Posts: 9
    The flywheel should not fail that quickly unless it was defective. My '02 7.3 has 205k miles, on its third starter and still the original flywheel. Even if you are not mechanically inclined, I would suggest you check the starter to make sure the bolts are tight. Especially with the diesel vibration, the bolts can work loose and when the starter tips, the gear doesn't engage fully with the flywheel. I recommend cleaning the bolts and holes and using blue loc-tite on them.
  • Regarding your squeak, I would check the usual suspects such as ball joints and tie rod ends. Also, sway bar end links and sway bar mounting rubber mounting points are a know source of squeaking on these vehicles. If you've never had them replaced, that would be my best guess as to what is causing your squeak. Finally, the front body to frame mounting bolts and rubber isolators can eventually wear. If the squeak feels like it coming from right under your feet on the drivers or passenger side, it could be the body mounting points will need attention.
  • I have a creaking noise coming from the forward cab area. I have been told that this may be a body mount issue. Could this also be responsible for the clunking I hear on rough road. I have replaced leafs, upper and low ball joints, outer axle shafts and hubs. Not much left but the trac bar bushing (the clunk?), drag link (which mechanic thought was fine) and or the body mount creak. Need some insight here...

    Peter
  • How big a job is replacing the body mounts? Should a body shop be used for this?
  • Body mounts easy to replace a lot of it is from water getting in between the rubber and washer. The pain in the butt is taken up the carpet to get to them. Need a floor jack and wooden blocks loosen the two front ones and replace the then do the two rear ones make sure to put block in between frame & body for safety you should not have to disk conect any thing only pick up about an inch good luck
  • bravo12bravo12 Posts: 1

    Someone made off with all the wiring under the hood of our 2000 Excursion. Finding it impossible to find replacement harnesses for AC. ANY HELP??

  • walt501walt501 Posts: 16

    Hello Bravo12, I would use one of the major Ford Parts distributors in your area for assistance. Or you could use my supplier for many of my Ford parts -

    http://parts.autonationfordwhitebearlake.com/

    You can do the search yourself for the wiring harness, or just give them a call and tell them what you need. I'm sure they'll be able to help you locate what you need.

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