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Ford Excursion Maintenance and Repair



  • lance17lance17 Posts: 8
    nukeford. Thanks for your info as well and thanks for the heads up of possible problems areas at that mileage. I have noticed the posts about the door ajar and door lock problems. We just had the door lock problem on our '01 Expedition as well. I guess they run in the family. I've rethought my mileage now that the Excursion would be the primary family car I will probably put 15k-20k miles on it per year as a safe ballpark estimate. The misses has a corolla we will run to the ground but to tow the family around the "X" will be it as long as we have room to park it. Giving the money I will be saving on gas going with the diesel and the longevity of it I think the oil changes wont be that big of a deal. I do my own oil changes at the moment on my dodge don't like the goons and the quick lube place spilling oil all over my stuff and stripping my bolt. I shall have to see if I can manage the diesel oil change. I do like your last sentence about the longevity of the diesel they last so long you think you have more problems than you actually do. That is a good one to remember. Thanks for all the help.
  • twtcadtwtcad Posts: 13
    If you are not towing anything or rarely (small items) then I would go w/ the '04 especially if it is 2wd. You will get a lot better mpg and their are a lot you can do to up it, air intake, exhaust, computer chip, ect.........There are some great Ford forums that go over all this stiff. As far as oil changes..........same as a gasser. I use Royal Purple synthetic and can get 15k out of one change. I buy 4 gallons of oil (one extra for topping off) and change my filter once or twice in that time period. It usually cost me $100 and I can go the year. It cost me more to use Rotella and change every 3k plus time. The AC; well I live in Central Florida w/ the high humidity and I feel the same way " it's an absolute must it's like oxygen in the summer time around here." and we have not not one issue with ours. It's also nice have dual air.......sometimes it can take a few miles to get it cool enough, but we really don't have any complaints! I think most of the issues people are having with these are the earlier one, (knock on wood) my '03 has not had a single issue! If you do purchase one, the first thing I would do unless they are new is replace all 4 rotors w/ slotted/dimple aftermarket one's; you will not be sorry. Then I would do a tuner of some sort; just do some research on which one and you will never look back at the improvement! Good luck! Todd
  • sparkloadsparkload Posts: 2
    I have peeling paint and cracked paint around most of the windows and what size lift do i need for me to put 18" wheels and 38.5 tires or 18"wheels and 36.5 tires??? The truck is black in color and is always hand washed as it does fit around here in the washes. Anyone have radio problems like it trying to play too loud but the sound is not really turned up??? Thanx.
  • agoodwinagoodwin Posts: 16
    Hello Sparkload,
    I had Ford repaint my Ex. and I cost me out of pocket $75.00. I have a 2004 Ex. Eddie Bauer, white with light copper trim. Mine was peeling on the roof by the top of the windshield and along the side (top) and front bumper. I'm not sure if Ford will do anything for you with the problems they are facing now. But it may be worth a try. Good luck!
    About the lift, you may be able to get away with a 2" but I would say a 4" is what you would have to put on your Ex. to clear that size of wheel and tire.
    C/ya Andrew
  • wjtinatlwjtinatl Posts: 50
    Just sold my '02 V-10 4x4 Limited with 88k miles. Almost cried as the new owner drove off, but don't really need that big a vehicle anymore. I can tell you this; my truck was in the AutoTrader for less than 24 hours, had three calls on it and a buyer who offered my asking price ($12.3k) sight unseen. The Ex was immaculate and well maintained, but I was surprised at the demand for it, now that gas is on it's way back up. Guess I left a grand or two on the table, given the response. I bought the Ex used with 25k on it in 2004 and can say without hesitation that it's about as bulletproof as any mechanical item can be. Brakes are a weak point, but easily fixed with just about any aftermarket rotor (I used NAPA, 20k+ with no warping). Outside of brakes however, change the oil at 5k and tranny fluid every 30k and these things will run forever. My brother has a '01 V10 4x4 with 150k and has likewise had little go wrong, and he is very hard on a truck. Compared with a Suburban, the Ex is head and shoulders a better vehicle for any type of towing or heavy use. Two previous Suburbans both rode a bit nicer than the Ex (they were 1500's) but ate transmissions like waffles and the brake were even weaker points than the Ford. Misc. A/C, power accessories and trim issues turned me off from the GM products. My V-10 averaged about 12 mpg, a bit better on the highway if you keep it below 75 mph. Above 75, it's like trying to push a barn down the highway and gas mileage plummets. I truly loved the truck and hope one day to find another in nice shape if my needs change. A word of caution, the Excursion is quite a bit bulkier than a Suburban or Expedition and drives as such. If your usage is mostly inner city in a large metro area, beware it doesn't fit in some parking garages and regular parking spaces. But if you need heavy duty.... nothing like the Excursion! Would love to see Ford bring it back on the greatly improved Super Duty platform.
  • roosmamaroosmama Posts: 28
    I know what you mean about the Big 'X's. If I could get a brand new one I would be all over it, but with today's economy I can't see it happening. I have a 2000 V10 with only 140,000 km on it. Everytime I take it for a service the dealer asks if I want to get rid of it. They have people looking for them.
  • I have looked but never found slotted, dimpled rotors, only slotted, drilled? I have looked on ebay.

    I am looking for people with experience with just drilled rotors, slotted and drilled and slotted and dimpled.

  • I also Have A 2005 Excursion with bad ROTORS.. Seems ever 7 to 10 ,00 mile they have to be replaced.. I was told by ford dealer you do not cut rotors on a Excursion.. they heat up to fast.... FORD has a ploblem and will not own up to it.. was told the new For super duty trucks have a better brake for somereason HMMMMMMMM
  • pfteryl1pfteryl1 Posts: 12
    You can take a very light cut on the rotors...just enough to clean them up. I have frozen Rotors" that still only get about 7-10k miles then begin to warp and chatter. They'll take three very light cuts so you can get 30k from them.
  • daddy818daddy818 Posts: 18
    OK- new rotors and pads have been on wife's ex for about 1 1/2 months and "shuddering" has not come back, wife says brakes are handling very well. I ordered "dimple-drilled and slotted(black finish)" from "" and it cost slightly less than stock rotors from dealer for the front set,the shipping was free, no sales tax and a set of new front pads were included for free as long as you "checked" the box when ordering. I've got to say I'm very pleased with them so far, I hope this input helps others. Now I need to know if it is possible to get the tool that is needed to remove the stock radio at stores like pep boys or auto zone,etc. or can I only get it at the dealer? I need to remove the radio so that I can get the front of the dash off (screw is hidden under radio) to get access to the instrument cluster lights, to replace them. Anyone bought this tool ? Cost?? Thanks in advance :shades:
  • I was just searching the net to find some good info regarding excursions repair help when I found this site. I didn't realize how wide spread the problems are. I have the "shuddering" while breaking.

    My husband replaced the brake pads and said he needed to replace the rotors as well. All the info on here is very helpful. After he replaced them, a clinking started (right after his day off - of coarse!) and finally made a snap noise yesterday. The steering seemed kind off pulling to the side like I had no steering capability at all and then would work again. Weird. As soon as my husband got home he took the tire, brakes, and rotor off. There was this flat "c" shaped metal piece that fell out of the rotor. The only thing we can think of is that was has been causing the clinking noise. The whole hub seemed very loose and shaky. Maybe moving back & forth as mucha s 1". Should it move that much? I don't ever remember seeing a hub move like that. We parked it :-( but want to get it back on the road asap. We are considering replacing the hub and/or bearings. Has anyone else had this problem? I'd love to hear about what you've tried. Thanks!

    Everyone's comments seem to say they replaced the bearings but never why? So another questions to throw out there would be why did you try that/
  • daddy818daddy818 Posts: 18
    Can anyone tell me where the "cabin air filter" is located in the ex?? Thanks!! Attn: jerm & lanz That 1" of play, in my opinion, is way too much play for a hub. How thick was that C-shaped metal piece that fell out of the rotor and how big in diameter is the piece? Also you refer to bearings in the rotor, on my wifes (and on many others) the rotors are "knock off" rotors which do not have bearings, could you explain with more detail if possible. I think everyone has taken the summer off from this "excursion page" (except me) !! Ok, now that I think about it, I'm talking about an ex w/ 4 wheel drive, I don't know if they even came in 2 wheel drive, if so that would explain the bearings in the (front) rotors, but does the "piece" even look like it was part of the bearing?
  • I bet you half these complaints in here for warped brake rotors are because the lug nuts are not being hand tightened to specification with a torque wrench. If there is any drastic variation in foot pounds of torque that each lug nut is tightened to it will cause the rotor to warp. It's simple thermal dynamics - metal expands when it gets hot, if it expands non-uniformly there can be warpage. That goes for any brake rotor on any vehicle unless otherwise specified (yes you too Honda owners out there). Your average mechanic may not know about this and may or may not care enough to take the time to do it right, usually they just use the old impact gun and hammer on the lug nuts till they won't tighten anymore or use a torque stick (still questionable). The only real way to know it's being done right is to go back after repairs have been done and loosen the lug nuts one at a time and retighten them yourself with a $20 torque stick from Walmart.

    COME TO THINK OF IT, many of the problems talked about on this sight are probably more from poor quality repairs made from mechanics that did not do a thorough job than from Ford.
  • Torqueing the nuts properly is correct. However it is not the answer in this case. I've been tightening nuts properly for years on every car I've ever owned. Only my Excursion has continually had the warpage problem, with or without cryogenically treated rotors. My rotors last for 5-10,000 miles before beginning to chatter when hot. My simple treatment is to remove the rotors...take an absolute minmal cut on the lathe and reinstall. They're good for another 5-10,000 miles. The entire process takes an hour. I suspect that somehow, a lack of sufficient cooling airflow over the rotors when underway may be contributing to the problem. I'm retired now. My service operations did 25-40,000 brake jobs a year. The identical rotors are used on certain Ford trucks without the excessive warpage. The Excursion is substantially heavier than the trucks using the same rotors.
  • My driver's side back window just fell out as well! I had NO idea this would happen, but apparently, it's more common than I thought--especially in the Excursion. We haven't asked our dealer to fix it, but the auto body repair guy said that once the window is delaminated, you can't use that window anymore! I think it's ridiculous that a window just falls off (and it scratched my pain!) What can we do???
  • I found your post while researching similar problems online. I have '02 7.3dsl with 115K miles with exact same problems (and a few more!) that have come on gradually. Most were already bad when we bought it 40K miles ago. Automatic headlights was last thing to quit a few weeks ago. Worked intermittently for several months and finally quit completely. We plan to keep the vehicle indefinitely, so would like to have things working.

    Just wondering if you got yours fixed and what it took?

    Tx, BN
  • I have a 00 ex w/ 7.3L, I have owned it since it was new and now has 215,000. I've had most of problems and EVERYONE has brakes issues. I have a friend that says Ford put 1/2 ton brakes on the heaviest SUV every built. I replaced all the rotors and pads 60,000 miles ago and they have never shuttered once. I just had new tires installed and the service guy told me that I still have about 1/2 the pad left? I purchased all four rotors and pads for 299.00 on ebay from brakelabs and have been thrilled. Yeah, the thing has a lousy electrical system, but the rest of the rig is awesome. I bought mine in Feb 00, since then I have replaced the altenator, rotors and pads, rebuilt the entire front end, and 3 sets of batteries. I had the glow plugs changed at 210,000 just because it was getting a little slow starting and winter is getting close. Since owning my ex for the past 9 1/2 years I have always wondered why GM and Chrysler never built an SUV with a diesel in it. Good luck to all of you.
  • I just put a new radio into my car and replaced the OEM model. I got a harness from Crutchfield and all appears to work. Now I get a the theft light blinking. I can start the car. Is there any solution to this?
  • :sick:
    i had just replaced the fuel pump and im getting 30psi not sure if thats right... ...i already replaced the oxygen sensors so i dont know if that could still be it... i drive on the freeway constantly .. when i get about 10 minutes on the freeway the revolutions will go all the way down and it will just be in idle just enough for the motor to not turn off, even though the its in drive and im stomping on the gas... then ill have to turn it off and on again for it to work another 10 minutes... anyone know on what i can do? think its an electrical wiring problem?
  • the theft light always blinked on mine i think thats just normal
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