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Ford Excursion Maintenance and Repair

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  • bksincbksinc Posts: 1
    I have an 01 Limited and at 93k it started doing the same thing, Ford honored the 100k warranty on the motor and $100 later and a new CMP valve/sensor it was fixed. Good Luck w/yours..
  • jnewsome1jnewsome1 Posts: 1
    I had a 2001 excursion which bounced like a horse. Someone told me exactly what to do buying the parts right from Ford. Which I did and it worked great. I have a 2005 now with the 6.0 diesel. Any suggestions on the suspension and super chip [ if available ]. Thanks, John
  • abqxabqx Posts: 1
    I have an 01 XLT X and apparently am learning the hard way regarding the warping rotors. Just had the factory rotors turned and ceramic pads installed. Seams to be breaking much better, but how can you tell if the rotors are warping? Vibration?

    Another question, when going over speed bumps or deep depressions, feels like the front end is bottoming out in the shocks. There doesn't appear to be any fluid leaking from the shocks...any suggestions?
  • xonvldzxonvldz Posts: 1
    I have previously leased a '00 Excursion 4x4 6.8L Limited, and am now the proud owner of a '01 same make/model. I surpassed 50k in both vehicles and have noticed a few common problems such as slow window motors and definitely the object sensors in the rear of the vehicle. Both of these, and I know from experience, are covered under any extended warranty you might have purchased with your vehicle. Just recently however, I noticed with my '01 that while making right/left turns and applying the gas the steering seems to "stick" in place and I need to apply extra force to get it to straighten out. Usually the proper technique is to give it gas while coming out of a turn and it will straighten out almost naturally, but with my situation it will "stick" a few times a day. Straight ahead and lane changing are no problem, Ive just only begun to notice this change with right/left turns. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks guys.
  • dweehuntdweehunt Posts: 1
    I have a 2003 Ford Eddie Bauer Excursion 4X4 6.0 diesel. Ever since we took delivery of this vehicle it has been a financial nightmare. Since delivery in January 2003 we have had brake problems, injector replaces and computer problems. That was in the first six months. Our dealer told us to have patience because it was one of the first off the assembly line and bugs might need to be worked out. Well the bugs continued. We traveled and tow extensively between Minnesota and New Mexico. And over the course of ownership of this vehicle we made sure it was serviced by a Ford authorized service shop only. Every trip we made it ended up in the shop with some kind of malfunction. However, they always told us it was not related to the last problem. Ha! The final straw came in October of 2004 because the motor keep over heating and then the motor blew. The dealer insisted that the dealer in Minnesota didn't put the oil filter on right. And they even insinuated that we had something do to with it. However, we never worked on it and they knew it. They replace it under warranty at 81,000 miles. Dealer gave us a 36,000 mile warranty on the new motor. Because we couldn't afford to get out of this one and pay the difference for a new one we took back the car with the new motor hoping all would be well. NOT!! We had it serviced and as long as we do town driving it seemed fine. In May we took another long trip and once again it over heated. Took it in and they replaced the clutch fan and said all was well. Now for the final straw. Traveling back to NM the first of this month it over heated again. The gauges read hot and the cooling fan would not kick in. Vehicle broke down 300 miles from home. Had to get towed and was just told the computer malfunctioned and fried the 2nd motor. Because it is out of warranty by 1500 miles and it was not the motor it was the computer it is not covered under warranty. So we are told we will have to pay for the repairs and replacement of a new motor. About $15,000 plus. We still owe on this car. I have had it with Ford and people need to be aware to keep good records and not except excuses from their Ford Dealers, Customer Service and Service department. Just needed to vent. And if anyone else has had problems with the 6.0 diesel or computer.
    Thank you
  • bhoffmanbhoffman Posts: 1
    Has anyone had problems with the back window falling out on the 2004 Excursion?
    I have had the drivers side back window fall out 3 time in 7 months. The dealer has replaced the window each time but it is a pain and I'd like to know if it is a bigger problem than just mine.
  • pjmargpjmarg Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 Excursion v10 and occasionally when I crank it, it either idles very low (4-500 rpm) or will completely shut off. It does not happen all the time, but enough to be really aggravating. (Maybe 1 out of 5 cold cranks.) At first I thought it had something to do with disconnecting the battery and not going through the engine idle re-learn process that is in the manual, so we disconnected the battery again and went through that multi-step process to let the engine "re-learn" it's correct idle. That seemed to work for a good while, but now it's happening again and repeating that process doesn't seem to fix it.

    Has anyone else had this problem? Any suggestions?
  • paulpizmopaulpizmo Posts: 2
    I have 2 one Eddie Bauer v10 and the other is Limited 4wd 6.0. Each has had its own set of problems and one common one. But when you have 4 kids 3 of which are in car seats, I think they're the best things on the road. So far, my local Ford dealers have been pretty good at taking care of the warranty issues, but they are near the end of the period. I may pay for the extended plan for the diesel.
    The V10 has had a bad alternator cash replacement and labor would have been about 750. I paid 0.
    The 6.0 has had 2 turbos, an egr valve, fan clutch (did u know that you truck transmission won't engage when the switch goes out, in the middle of the desert pulling a boat at 110 in the afternoon an hour ffrom the arizona border). I guess costs whould have been about 6000 so far only 75 buck for a fuel filter.
    They both have common problems with brakes. I can feel the vibration of warped rotors on both and I think I'll due the complete Power Slot rotor replacement on both along with the ceramic pads. Everything I've read says that is the way to go.I've learned alot about them and if you have questions I may have an answer. But I'm not a tech by any stretch of your or my imgination. Have fun and I really like this site. Good people!
  • paulpizmopaulpizmo Posts: 2
    I took mine to the dealer and they reflashed the engine computer with updated programming. It seemed to fix the problem for the past year. Check and see it there is a recall for your year model
  • z06klrz06klr Posts: 1
    my 00 moutanieer does the same thing, need some help, whats the cause of this?
    it use to work fine, then it would make a short chirp and tun off, now it just turns off
    when i but it in "R"
    any help
    Darkbluestang@yahoo.com thanks jeremy
  • I need to replace my outside towing mirror and need to get to the wiring inside the door. How do I get the inside panel off? I can get the nuts off on the mirror itself, but don't see how the panel removes so I can get to the wiring connector?

    Help! Thanks, John
  • dogmikedogmike Posts: 4
    Rather then messing up the door, you are probably better off taking it to an auto glass repair facility and let them do it for you. Look in the yellow pages, they normally replace windshiedls, but will definitely helpy you.

    You should be able to negotiate a price for it. It should not be more than $20. Plus they will be done in around a half an hour and you will never notice the door was taken apart. Doing it yourself might mess things up. They know which way the door panel moves to get if form the door itself. I had a similar case with a different vehicle.

    Good Luck.
  • shashshash Posts: 1
    Well, rather than tell you to go have someone do it, how bout I provide some real meaningful advice. It's quite simple:

    1) Rock the plastic cover at the front, highest point of the door (its the one about 6" long) until it comes off in your hand.
    2) Gently pry the bezel that holds the power window control out of the hole. Start at the end closest to the front of the car. You can use a pry bar or very blunt screw driver. Don't mar the plastic. It should pop right out.
    3) Mark the wiring two wiring harnesses and the holes that they plug into with tape and symbols
    4) Gentle remove the wireing harness from the two fittings
    6) Look for the screw that holds the panel to the door frame and remove it
    7) Gently pry the red light cover on the door panel out of its position
    8) Remove the screw that holds the panel to the door frame
    9) Gently lift the door panel upwards and rock it back and forth until it just comes loose.
    10) Look down on the inside and see the wire that powers the lightbulb in the door panel
    11) Turn the plastic light bulb fitting 90 degrees and it will come out of the door panel
    12) Remove the door panel.

    Reverse to re-attach. Of course, you can drive to an auto-glass company and company then pay someone to screw it up for you but that wouldn't be as much fun.
  • ltwltw Posts: 2
    My Excursion has some of the same problems. To fix the inside lights staying on/door ajar thing spray all of the door sensors with WD40.
  • ltwltw Posts: 2
    To fix the light problem, spray all the door sensors w/ WD40
  • 1bigtug1bigtug Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 Ford Excursion with the 6.8L (V10) and the rearend gears are 4:30 - I've been having problems with pinging while under load - and recently without being under load - Our mileage was HORRIBLE on a recent trip 5 miles to the gal while towing our 30' Weekend Warrior FS30 model - I've switched out the air intake with a Air Raid system and also used the Hyper-Tech III for programming!!! all have helped - with the exception of the pinging - the other MAJOR problem is the DAM doors squeaking - I've had the weather stripping molding replaced 2 times - which solves the problem for 3 or 4 months - I'm know looking at trading it in!!! and buying a new 06 F350 4 x 4 Crew Cab Dually! The price is right - with the exception that I own the Excursion out right - it just turned 44,500 (however the trade in value would not be what I'd want or NEED- We did purchase the extended warranty 6yr / 60,000 -however some of these problems have been addressed before and still have not been resolved - I'm thinking I should be looking at Chevy or Dodge trucks to resolve my problems!!! :confuse:
  • dgf625dgf625 Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 Excursion, it started stalling just when it was raining, but would start right up again. It would stall at idle or when rpms are falling, at higher rpms it would hesitate and tach would drop, but continue running. Now it happens more often and not only when it is raining, and for the first time would not restart right away. No check engine light or codes says FORD. 90% of the stalling is when slowing for a corner, losing power steering, and my wife is usually driving. She is ready to kill me. Map sensor, Cam sensor??
  • ned412ned412 Posts: 16
    I'm on my 2nd Ex now. Had an 01 Limited 4x2 V8. Had the same brake problem once in 50,000. The dealer turned the rotors at about 30,000 and they were fine after that. Had the transmission replaced because it slipped in OD. This was my own fault because I towed a trailer from PA to FLA and never put it in tow mode. It was also covered under warranty.

    Now have an 05 Eddie Bauer 4x4 with the 6.0. No problems yet with 5,000 on it. I do notice that it requires move attention driving on the highway. It doesn't go straight like the 2WD model. It seems you are constantly moving the wheel a little. The 2WD was perfect. You could take you hands off the wheel and it would go straight for ever.

    I do notice a bunch of difference between the diesel and the V8. I don"t tow anything but like the better mileage. I'm getting about 15. The V8 got 12. Plus now diesel is a little cheaper. I didn't get the extended warranty yet but probably will before the warranty is up.

    I really love the EX and would buy another if they keep making them. Do they plan on making them in 06?
  • pjairpjair Posts: 2
    my ford ex has been making funny noises when towing my boat, like a backfire
    it looses power but continues to run, it does this several times in a row, back of the throttle and it stops.
    it also has been blowing the turbo to pipe hose.
  • pjairpjair Posts: 2
    i have a 04 6.0 diesel and they tell me that it has a variable pitch turbo, can any body elaborate on that?
  • We have the same problem with our 2001 excursion bouncing. What did you get from Ford to correct the problem?
  • i own a '01 V-10 4x4 excursion with 80 k miles. on a short trip to texas, only 350 miles, my tranny gave out, only gear left was reverse. during the trip, i noticed the gears shifting in real hard, tranny fluid was full, and red, but smelled burnt, service was always kept up on this thing. called dealer ship to see if they had any similar problems. there answer, "just one of those things i guess" i thought of taking it to a dealership in texas, but instead took it to a tranny specialist. turns out, he had two other trannys, from two other v-10 4x4 excursions sitting in his shop. one '01 and the other an '02. both with significantly less miles. what are the odds?? just one of those things i guess. has anyone else had any similar problems??
  • My 01 V8 4X2 had the tranny go at 30,000. It was replaced under warranty. It started to slip going into OD and when I took it in they told me it had to be replaced.
  • THis is my 2nd EX and I have the same problem with both. The back glass door rubs on the 2 lower doors and leaves a scratch mark. Myh other EX was repaired and they repainted the rear doors. Does anyone else have this problem?
  • i have a 2001 excursion 7.5 diesel that wants to stall out usually at startup. it happened once before and dealer says it was low on oil? after $100 oil change it ran perfect. but six months later its doing it again.i have 50,000 miles on it.. its still under warranty.i can see how oil can afect injectors but oil is ok. anybody?
  • Just wanted to say THANK YOU for your posting of the CAMSHAFT POSITION SENSOR. I had our 2002 Excursion 7.3 towed to a shop because it would cut out. When they test drove it there was no problem, brought it back home and right away it started again (I was starting to think it was me). Then I found this forum and your posting and told my husband, "This is it, this is our problem." The next day he went to the dealership, came home installed the CAMSHAFT POSITION SENSOR and things have been good ever since. Thanks again. Lakeside, CA :)
  • has anybody done propane? or any other mods to help with the gas. I have a 2002 xlt V-10. K&N air intake, flowmaster exhaust. i bought june 9, 2005 with only 32k on it i have already put about 13k mi on it. I love my X. haven't had any probs yet. it has 8" lift with 35" bfg at's, mickey thompson rims, A/V system with 3 7" screens. i would like to know about propane or another alternative to gas. and if anybody on here has propane the pros and cons to converting to an alternative fuel. any help would be appreciated. thanks in advance. i know arizona gives a brk on licensing for alternative fueled vehicles
  • I also have an 2002 X 7.3 Power Stroke, well actual I pay for it and my wife drives it
    hard.
    I was going through rotors like crazy, the dealership cut them twice around every 5000 to 7000 miles but they warped again, I was greasing pins every 4000 miles with amsoil synthetic grease but they still warped. Finally they replaced the rotors
    and guess what it happened again.
    The truck was out of warrenty now and I purchased new rotors from a place in (I think) Rockchester NY They suggested to go with sloted rotors not the ones with holes in it and that fixed the problem, They didn't give me ceramic brakes but metalic brakes.
    So I hope this helps you.
    Does anyone no which transline is the return line the one in the front or rear of transmission or the one closer to the motor or closer to rear, I need to fully flush the transmission and I dont want to pull both lines off to find out so I dont make to big of a mess.
    Thanks
  • Hi all newbie here, i have an 00' Excursion w the V-10, recently i ran the gas down to near empty or 16 mile left on the read out, went to start her up and she would not fire up, it will turn over but no starty!!! So went and replaced fuel filter, reset the fuel pump switch, and it will still not start. Any ideas on what else to do, before i hit the dealership?

    Thanks MikeVG in Sunny Smokey So Cal
  • To begin with, I am not a technition just a guy who has a 00' 7.3 diesel with a power chip and K&N filter in my Excursion, I pull a 7000 lb camper and occasionaly a Bobcat that is alot of weight also. I was pulling the bobcat and the trailor breaks went out so my truck was dooing all of the stopping for the trip. Shortly after that incident I noticed a slight shake in the stearing wheel and it got consistently worse as time went on. I am very familiar with the term "Warped rotors" and "having them turned as I have owned several other big SUV, Expedition, same thing. Taho, Same thing, Suburban Same thing and I got sick of "turning rotors". I did some research and "googled" warped rotors, and found out that what most of us think is that the actual rotor gets a warp or a wave to it and that causes the vibration. But what it seams actually happens is from the extreme heat that is built up between the pads and the rotors the molecules in the metal actually change and cause "I can't remember the exact term" a kind of hard spot "in" the rotor, kind of like a planters wart. and the pads don't grip the rotor at the same rate as it does the rest of the surface. So when the machine shop "turns" the rotors they have to grind the whole surface of the rotor down to eliminate that spot in the rotor that has hardened. Why does it happen in the first place, pads and rotors have to be matched to each other, in other words softer break pads will heat up and get spongy but they don't heat your rotor to the point of "warping" but you loose stopping power. Hard break pads will feel firm, but will heat up the standard rotor to the point of "warping" because a sold "non-slotted or no holes" does not disapate enough heat. So to end this, I went to the local auto store and got high end pads and rotors that were slotted and drilled and some caliper grease. I greased the bejeausus out of the pins and worked them back and forth several times until they slid nice and loose (they were very sticky and that does not allow the pad to separate from the rotor enough and causes heat build up then "warping") I now have about 5,000 miles on the new set up and am very happy, the truck stops very nicley, firm and quick with no vibration. As for the chip and the K&N filter, what a differance, I get 17-18 MPG in the city and 22-23 on the freeway and the power and excelleration is awsome (for a 7800lb truck) and I do not have a light foot. this thing is like a 4 tone rocket, that can now stop. I also put 285/75 R 16 Bridgestone Revos (2nd set) and it handles 10 times better then the junk firstone steeltex. So properly set up this is an excellent all around truck.
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