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Dodge Ram: Problems & Solutions



  • Check the idler belt pulley
  • pscarbpscarb Posts: 2
    I have a 2001 Ram 1500. It has the 5.9 liter engine and 51,000 miles. I bought it used a couple of months ago.
    I have put new....plugs, wires, cap, rotor, and K&N air filter. The truck came with a Flowmaster muffler going thru stock tail pipe. I recently added a 52 millimeter spacer under the throttle body (supposed to improve throttle response and add 1 or 2 miles per gallon) and I put new tires and front end alignment.
    PLEASE someone tell me why am I getting only 11 miles per gallon????
    I keep my foot out of the accelerator to help but I wanna drive it now and then.
    The truck starts and idles and accelerates like brand new and the engine light is not on.....any ideas or is this normal?
  • tattstatts Posts: 1
    1998 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4

    The other day my CHECK ENGINE light came on. Later that same day, my transmission wouldnt change gears (stuck in either first or second, Im not sure) A diagnosis at Auto Zone advised my speed sensor was malfunctioning.

    Is this somthing I can replace myself? Anyone have any insight into this problem?? Thanks in advance!!!
  • Here is a difficult one, hope someone knows the answer. So the is question do I bypass the starter relay and jumper the ignition switch directly to the starter and eliminate the headaches without harming any other part of the truck? Below is the troubleshooting: The starter won't turn over on a 2000 Dodge Ram 2500 Diesel w/automatic. Step 1: Confirm Starter Relay ok. Step 2: Confirm "all" fuses are ok. Step 3: Confirm Ignition switch is ok by turning the key to the on position and locating the "hot" connection at the relay terminal. This confirms that power is delivered to the starter relay and the ignition switch is ok. Then jumper directly to the starter connection and the starter will turn over (this step is done via the starter relay terminal). Step 4: Replace the Neutral Safety switch and then repeat Step 3. The Problem still exists, however the neutral switch was part of the problem as the ohm meter now show's that two more of the terminals at the starter relay are now closed. One more of the terminals read open. Unable to locate where this connection leads to. Step 5: Quadruple check that all linkages are correct. Step 6: Close the hood, scratch butt, sit under the shade tree and cuss a blue streak. The four letter lubrication doesn't work. Step 7: Post this.
  • ah1fdocah1fdoc Posts: 3
    Check the load rating of your tires. They should be a E rating or higher. I had my tires replace and they put SUV tires on and I had the same problem. I put 8 ply tires on and the problem is gone.
  • ah1fdocah1fdoc Posts: 3
    Check the ply rating and load rating on your tires. They should be a minium of E rating or and 8 ply tire.
  • ah1fdocah1fdoc Posts: 3
    Did you change the tires since you purchase the vehicle? Check to make sure the load rating is correct for the vehicle. Tire stores will throw SUV tires and they are to low of a ply or load rating and that will cause the problem
  • jwolfejwolfe Posts: 1
    I am trying to get the screw in the pin in my rear end. Is there an easy way to line up all the holes.
  • rick757rick757 Posts: 1
    My truck has just started having the following problem. It starts fine. When I take off and get about 1/2 mile down the road it will not gain speed like it should. It is very slow to build speed up to about 50 mph and then suddenly it just takes off and runs normal. You can push the accelerator to the floor and it will not go any faster during these episodes. So far, this has only occurred when starting up and running. After this happens, the truck runs fine until the next day. Any ideas as to what is up with this? The truck has a 5 speed, Cummins Diesel. :confuse:
  • KCRam@EdmundsKCRam@Edmunds Mt. Arlington NJPosts: 3,497
    you're not gonna do a whole lot better than 11 with the 360/5.9 - that's one of the reasons it was replaced by the Hemi.

    kcram - Pickups Host

    KCRam - Pickups/Wagons/Vans+Minivans Moderator

  • loncrayloncray Posts: 301
    Um, maybe it's just me, but that's the single most suggestive post I've ever seen in here. There's so many opportunities for a cheap joke here....
  • I purchased my 2003 Ram 1500 with a smile, but lately I'm done! :lemon:

    PROBLEM #1 At 20,000 miles I experienced an intermitting "Door Ajar" bell that would not stop... When it was hot outside, the bell would ring, the door locks would lock, unlock and everytime I took it to the dealership, it would stop. After 4-differnent trips to the dealer, they finally found the resistance in the pink wire of the wiring harness to be too high. They replaced my wiring harness and it was fixed.

    Problem #2 At 56,000 miles, I get in my truck and the following doesn't work! Instrument panel, blinkers, horn, windshield wipers, dome light, turn signals, the truck stalled twice on right hand turns on the way to the dealer, low idle... The dealership tells me that it would cost $750 +Tax to replace the instrument panel for starters, then they can't guarantee that it will solve all of my problems....

    With rising gas prices and a list of problems.... I'm DONE!!!! :mad:
  • indyjagindyjag Posts: 1
    :( How many other people are finding that on the 2005 Dodge 3500 2/wheel drive trucks have a piece of metal sticking them in the lower back by the consol side.
    My truck and several others I checked have a metal piece just below the material that after a short time begins to wear the seat and punch you in the back. I feel that in a accident the metal would hit a person in the hip area, but it is just uncomfortable if you lean over that way also.
    Dodge says I am over the 36,000 so they are not interested!
    Thanks Don
  • I was driving down the interstate at approx. 80 miles an hour when a loud noise erupted from my engine compartment as quickly as I could I hit the brakes, but it was too late. My 5.9 magnum had lost oil pressure and I sat on the side of the road with a shot motor. I suspect the I had experienced failure with the oil pump. The motor now has a loud knock and I am awiating a large repair bill. Just wondering if this is a common problem. I was shocked with the pickup only having 70,000 miles on it and the engine going bad. Until this time I had been a chevy guy and switched brands and was completely happy until this happened. Pleas reply if anyone knows of a similar problem, thanks.
  • rrotzrrotz Posts: 1
    I am having a similar problem with the 1999 Dodge. I cannot speed up past 30 right now and no matter how much I push the gas it does not spped up. I had transmission people look at it and they thought it was the fuel pump but we are getting pressure. So far, we've narrowed it down to a clogged converter but no results.
  • mike05mike05 Posts: 1
    I have a 05 diesel automatic that has a Buzz or Vibration that seems to come from the rear end or drive shaft. (Similar to a bad rear u-joint) It starts when my speed reaches 70 mph or higher. The Buzz resonates in the cab and vibrates in the steering wheel. My dealer denies any vibration and says there are no bulletins on this. (they just dont want to deal with it!) I have checked, balanced and rotated the tires. Anyone with any knowledge of this or ideas would be greatly appreciated.
  • KCRam@EdmundsKCRam@Edmunds Mt. Arlington NJPosts: 3,497
    The 70mph vibe is a known issue. I got lucky with my 05 in that I don't have the vibe, but quite a few folks do. One solution I've heard is to have the front wall of the bed braced... on that truck, the vibe was coming from resonating sheet metal. Others have required rear-diff swaps.

    kcram - Pickups Host

    KCRam - Pickups/Wagons/Vans+Minivans Moderator

  • kilsterkilster Posts: 55
    Your first problem sounds like you have a leaking intake manifold plenum gasket. It is probably sucking air and oil around the bottom of the pan. The second i think you might find a blown fuse for the ac condensor fan. You will have to order a new fan assy. from dodge and should take care of your other problem.
  • kilsterkilster Posts: 55
    just a guess but i would try and replace the governor pressure sensor and solenoid in the valve body
  • kilsterkilster Posts: 55
    it sounds like you need a injector pump. I have seen this a few times and replacing the injector pump fixed them. Should be warranty for 5 years, 100k miles
This discussion has been closed.