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Dodge Ram: Problems & Solutions

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  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    .......ask around, but do get it backflushed...then have a nice trip...

    But do get the filter changed and the pan cleaned as well, or have your husband do it after the flush. Sludge collects in the pan and metallic particles collect on the magnet in the pan. Also, while flushing renews the fluid, it can't clean the filter.
  • robsdodgerobsdodge Member Posts: 4
    The hissing sound that I hear is coming from a port in the back of the throttle body, there also appears to be a sensor of some port that plugs in the back of the throttle body. Can you identify this port and some possible causes of it "sucking" too much air
  • robsdodgerobsdodge Member Posts: 4
    Just identified the part on the throttle body as the IAC. If it is wide open on startup does that mean that it is defective or needs to be cleaned?
  • dodgeandweavedodgeandweave Member Posts: 5
    I just bought a 97 Ram 1500 and have had a little work done on it to get it back up to snuff. When I bought it the AC wasn't working so I had it recharged and it worked great....for about a week. Suddenly its blowing hot air. When I open the hood I can see that the compressor wheel is engaged and turning but then it clicks off for a few seconds, clicks back on for a few seconds, and then clicks off again. Before I bring it in and have them tell me the compressor is shot, is there an easier fix or adjustment that will cure the problem? Thanks!
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    More likely it's a refrigerant leak. The compressor clutch is signalled to disengage if the system pressure is too low. Don't forget, the original refrigerant went somewhere!
  • nobullnobull Member Posts: 7
    I HAVE FOUND THE CAUSE FOR THE VENTS CHANGING THE FROM VENTS TO DEFROST ON MY TRUCK THE SOLUTION IS THE SWITCH IN THE CAB ON THE DASH IS BAD THE VACCUM LINES ON THE BACK OF THE SWITCH ALL HELD VACCUM WHEN I TESTED THEM SO ITESTED THE SWITCH AND IT WOULD NOT HOLD VACCUM BAD THING IS YOU MUST REPLACE ALL THREE SWITCHES VENTS ,FAN CONTROLL,AND TEMP CONTROLL SOLD AS ONE UNIT GOOD LUCK AND YOU WERE RIGHT IT WAS A VAC.PROB JUST NOT WHERE YUO WOULD EXPECT :P :P ">
  • roper2roper2 Member Posts: 61
    Dusty thanks for the info. on this subject.
  • marsha7marsha7 Member Posts: 3,703
    Thanks for the comment...I had truly assumed (ah, assume) that if a station backflushed the tranny, that changing filter and gasket would be standard procedure, just that backflushing changes the tork converter whereas dropping the pan will not... ;)
  • jbaker2jbaker2 Member Posts: 1
    After replacing the exhaust on our 95 Dodge Ram 1500, it ran one day and now will not start. It does turn over/cranks, but there is no fuel pressure nor can you hear the fuel pump turn on when the key is at "on/run". Tested the voltage of the pins at the connector to the fuel pump, and when the key is in the "run" position we have 8V between 1&3, and 2&3, and close to 0V between 4 and any other. When we try to start it, we get less than 4V between 3&4, and still 8V between 1&3 and 2&3. Have replaced all related fuses and relays with no results. Help please?
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Backflushed?

    That implies a reverse forced flow of ATF in the system. I'm not familiar with this. Many places around here do a "flush" by removing the return cooling line and allowing the transmission pump to bring fresh ATF into the transmission. In these cases I believe they do not remove the pan and change the filter, unless requested.

    Best regards,
    Dusty
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    You're right of course, but I didn't want to complicate it any further. I was really pushing the point of getting the filter changed and the pan cleaned. :)

    It's actually impossible to backflush anything except the lines and the cooler. Trying to do a pressurized reverse flow on the whole system would initially wash the contents of the filter back into the pan (assuming the pump doesn't block the flow), then fill the pan and transmission to the point where fluid was coming out of the breather.

    Actually, I've not come across systems that use the transmission pump to move the fluid. All the machines I know of either use an electric pump or an air pump. However, there always seems to be a reluctance to include dropping the pan as part of the service (surprise!). image
  • marsha7marsha7 Member Posts: 3,703
    Correct...and, correct...

    I ain't doin too well in this topic...maybe I oughta leave and try where I can do better... :cry::cry::cry:
  • dodgegirldodgegirl Member Posts: 5
    Thank you so much for the info.... I did call around to the service shops, now I am more confused than I was before. Walts says they do a "reverse flush" and replace all the fluid which eliminates the need for a filter (screen) replacement being as they push all the grime out of the filter and out of the transmission and torque converter. Is this possible? Do other shops do this "reverse flush" or are theirs a normal flush (whatever that means). Thanks much Dodgegirl :confuse: :confuse:
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    A local area muffler shop uses the technique of using the transmission's pump to pump out the old fluid while drawing in the new fluid. There is another system used by some quick lube places that utilize a bladder that is filled by the transmission fluid coming out of the transmission. The bladder is located inside a large cavity that holds fresh fluid. As the bladder fills the expansion displaces fresh fluid in the cavity, and this is what gets pushed into the transmission.

    Either of these processes are preferred because the flow rate of fresh fluid is self regulated and guarantees that the transmission will not become overfilled with fresh fluid. Overfilling is potentially harmful since this will cause aeration of the ATF.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    Walts says they do a "reverse flush" and replace all the fluid which eliminates the need for a filter (screen) replacement being as they push all the grime out of the filter and out of the transmission and torque converter. Is this possible?

    I'd call BS on that (see previous posts). The transmission needs to be flushed in the normal manner by the type of machine described by either Dusty or I, then the pan needs to be dropped and cleaned, and the filter replaced.

    You can't wash the filter clean, inside or outside the transmission, and you certainly can't remove the metallic debris from the magnet without physically cleaning it.

    Go to a shop that assumes you have some intelligence and treats you with respect.
  • dodgegirldodgegirl Member Posts: 5
    So I should have the transmission flushed in the normal manner and then have my hubby drop the pan and clean it out and replace the filter? Can he just do this himself? He is a truck driver and gone at all hours and home after business hours and can't call these places himself, so it is up to me. I just want to do what is right for my truck and not completely screw it up and apparently get treated like a "girl". Thank you so much for the help and the honesty, quite refreshing :)
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    So I should have the transmission flushed in the normal manner and then have my hubby drop the pan and clean it out and replace the filter? Can he just do this himself?

    You got it! I've sure your husband can manage the pan and filter ok, just tell him it's impossible to be too clean when working on a transmission and he'll be fine! ;)
  • luckyman1luckyman1 Member Posts: 29
  • luckyman1luckyman1 Member Posts: 29
    lost all lube in rear end ;; fill it back up have a loud noise but no sign of anything wrong still getting same gas mileage
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    .....fill it back up have a loud noise but no sign of anything wrong .......

    The loud noise is a sign of something wrong! ;)
  • luckyman1luckyman1 Member Posts: 29
    is there anything i can put in rear end to make it quieter
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    Wood shavings and foam rubber used to be a favorite of crooked car dealers, but I don't recommend it!

    You've either damaged the teeth on the ring and pinion gears, and/or the differential bearings. There's nothing you can pour in that will repair them, but using a heavier weight gear oil might reduce the noise a little. However, the real fix is a mechanical repair.
  • partsman2kpartsman2k Member Posts: 15
    Dear Dusty, I am still having problems with the dash on my 99 ram. Ive ran all the codes and came up with nothing. It seems like when if fails i can turn on my right signal and it will straighten up(sometimes) Mostly now Ive got to the point where I just ignore it all together. I was just hoping that someone else with this problem has come up with a soulition. thanks
  • ernie5ernie5 Member Posts: 2
    I have a problem with my v10 too. It is a 1999 dodge 3500, 4x4 dually extended cab. With 75,000 miles. The truck will start fine then in about 2 min. it will start to run rough, but is alot worse when warm, if you step on the gas it coughs,and backfires. Any buddy have a idea?
    Thanks ernie5 :sick:
  • ernie5ernie5 Member Posts: 2
    I have a problem with my v10 too. It is a 1999 dodge 3500, 4x4 dually extended cab. With 75,000 miles. The truck will start fine then in about 2 min. it will start to run rough, but is alot worse when warm, if you step on the gas it coughs,and backfires. Any buddy have a idea? :sick:
    Thanks ernie5
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    There are quite a few possibilities that could cause this kind of problem. At this point I'd recommend getting a Dodge service manual for your vehicle and start troubleshooting. Electrical problems are often the tough ones.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • rambusrambus Member Posts: 4
    I'm having the "No Bus" message show on my 1999 Dodge 1500 Ram pickup. it's a manual with a 318. This happens when I'm idling or on the road. It doesn't seem to matter if A/C is on or any other electrical device. It seems I just have to wait a period of time and it starts up again. The No Bus message in the odometer window dissapears then goes back to the mileage reading- that's when I can start it back up again. I saw another thread on a Dakota. Does anyone have any idea as to why this happens? the code reader brings up nothing!
    thanks.
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    On older RAMs the "NO BUS" message means that the Programmable Communications Interface (PCI) data bus circuit is inoperative. This circuit is the data exchange between the PCM and other various computer modules and circuits in the vehicle.

    The following could be reasons for a "No Bus" message:

    *A instrument cluster CPU, RAM, or EEPROM failure (includes bad grounds or broken circuits on the instrument cluster PC board)

    *A poor or broken PCI data bus connection at the instrument cluster

    *Certain instrument cluster fuses may be open

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • rambusrambus Member Posts: 4
    Thank you. Hopefully my Mech will have the right equipment to pinpoint and figure this one out! It turned off 3 times on me today already- 2 times at a busy intersection after 3 days of no problems.
  • rb944rb944 Member Posts: 1
    What is the best way to check vacuum hoses on my '98 1500 360ci? There is a hissing noise when running, and I have to crank twice before start. Thanks!
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    I've found that a good visual inspection with the engine off uncovers 80% of them. Look carefully at each line for splits and cracks. Move the vacuum lines around to expose split areas. If any lines are showing signs of embrittlement, these should be major suspects. Have you or anyone else performed any service on the engine recently? Look in those general areas that were disturbed. Many times the act of repairs cracked a brittle hose.

    If that fails, obtain a stethescope and run it along all of the vacuum line with the engine running.

    Good luck and best regards,
    Dusty
  • 4ducks4ducks Member Posts: 8
    I also have had this problem with my 1999 Ram pick-up Quad cab. We were on our way home from a camping trip (towing a 14 ft popup camper) and the A/C began blowing only from the window blowers (blowers were set to mid-body). The brake light and ABS light came on at the same time. The Cruise control stopped working all together and when we came to a stop, the speedometer didn't work until we got up to 20mph. Now the Check Engine light is on and the speedometer doesn't work at all. We have checked allof the fuses but saw that there is a sticker attached to the inside of the hood that shows a diagram with all of these things directed to somewhere. (couldn't figure it out! :confuse: ) Please help!!!!! Thanks!
  • bigv10bigv10 Member Posts: 1
    The speedometer stopped working completely. If any one has any information on trouble shooting this problem. Please let me know.

    Thank You! ">
  • coal2coal2 Member Posts: 2
    I am having the same issue on our 1998 Dodge Quad Cab, first the ABS light and Brake light came on then the spedo quit and check engine light came on. I ran codes and had a speed sensor fault, rpl speed sensor no luck. Problem seems to come and go, when spedo stops working is when check engine light comes on. A few times driving spedo starts working, I turned engine off restarted all was OK not warning lights, went a few more miles and ABS and Brake light came back on.
    Any help is appreciated.
  • tired_old_davetired_old_dave Member Posts: 710
    dustyk,
    The Jeep Liberty Diesel forum on post 1185 is suggesting the overheating issue might be a RFE545 transmission issue. While another poster was told by DC to add a BG radiator additive to his CRD. Please give us some input in that forum. Thank you.
  • KCRamKCRam Member Posts: 3,516
    Soliciting is against the rules...

    kcram - Pickups Host
  • randyfrischrandyfrisch Member Posts: 9
    :cry: It's our Cummins...not quite perfectly counterbalanced.
  • highgdriverhighgdriver Member Posts: 2
    Do the PUs still have unitized bearings on the AAM axles?
    Can someone tell me what the difference is vs regular/normal bearings?
    What happens when the bearings need replacement?
    Is there a kit that replaces the unitized bearings with regular bearings?
    TIA. high-g test driver
  • bloodlanbloodlan Member Posts: 5
    ok. thanks for the input.. I noticed that if i turn the ignition on for a minute without out turning the engine over...then turn it over it starts right up. There are no codes going off. So it sounds like a pressure thing. I was told the a 318 in dodge rams are typically like this. Do you think that sounds right?
  • luckyman1luckyman1 Member Posts: 29
    this comes on when i am pulling something
  • waterfowlerwaterfowler Member Posts: 12
    I am thinking about purchasing a Dodge diesel here in California but I was wondering how much of a difference is there in fuel economy and horsepower versus a Dodge Cummins equiped with standard emissions? Can anyone out there throw me a bone(or a link) on this subject? I have heard that the difference nowadays is nowhere near what is was in years past. Any truth to that?

    Edit: I should have stated that I was talking about a new Dodge.
  • rambusrambus Member Posts: 4
    If you find anything about the problem with the dash instruments, please let me know.
  • KCRamKCRam Member Posts: 3,516
    There is no longer a physical difference between CA-spec and federal-spec Cummins diesels. The only difference is the certification sticker (but don't try to bring a truck in from another state without it).

    kcram - Pickups Host
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    No, this is not typical for a 318 or any other Dodge motor! How long have you known the Dodge hater that told you this? (:-)

    This is begining to sound like a straight ignition problem. Does this motor have a distributor?

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    The Speed Sensor is usually the culprit when this happens.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • tired_old_davetired_old_dave Member Posts: 710
    Thank You Dusty. I've enjoyed your posts for some time now.
  • chris2005chris2005 Member Posts: 1
    Problem: Radio has no sound, clock, and none of the interior lights work. The dash lights work along with the illumination of the radio.

    There is a 5amp fuse inside the inner panel that has no voltage nevertheless I can not find what supplies that fuse with power. This problem begin when some one stole my radio out of the dash.

    Any insight would be a major plus, I've messed around with it for a 40 hour work week and I'd like to keep it away from the dealer ($$).
  • steveh5steveh5 Member Posts: 4
    I have a similar problem, but mine is a 1995 1500 Ram 4X4 w/auto trans. While traveling at 55 with cruise on, the truck acted like that I turned off the key as the cruise quit and the speedometer went to zero. After I slowed to around twenty mph, I realised that I still had first gear and crippled home in first gear and no speedometer. The Dodge parts man guaranteed me (99.9% sure:) that the differential sensor was the culprit. After 80 bucks spent, it wasn't. That is where I am at with it. Are there any other obvious causes of this problem. Thank you.
  • deasundeasun Member Posts: 11
    Good evening all,

    My engine light just came on and won't go off. Engine sounds fine and runs fine too. May be a bit of a spurtting at idle but if there its very small.
    First time sense I bought truck that something has come up. Very pleased with it I am.
    Any ideas to what this might be? Can't get it into shop to tuesday :(

    Ah that was 70K+ miles :)

    Thanks
    Deasun :confuse:
  • dimsterdimster Member Posts: 10
This discussion has been closed.

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