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Dodge Ram: Problems & Solutions



  • sebring95sebring95 Posts: 3,225
    The only thing I can say about the oiled filters is this: I've had both K&N and Amsoil oiled foam filters and both had higher content of silicon (and higher wear metals as well) in oil sampling than before/after using the paper filter. While the results were still within spec, I find that more wear is bad regardless. If you're planning to keep the vehicle a long time, it may effect the longevity of the engine. I use paper, usually OEM air filters. There may be some cost savings with the oiled filters, but there's also the hassle of cleaning/oiling them. I've never noticed a performance difference, although the oiled filters seem to make the engine more noisy.


    I've also felt that at one of the oiled filters promoted the demise of a MAF sensor, although that was on a diesel which seems to have more sensitive MAF's.
  • psrampsram Posts: 7
    Now this is strange. I posted a message regarding the Light Out light comming on. Well THis is strange when I drive on the stree not going over 45 miles per hour the light doesnt light up. But when I am driving on the freeway it lights up and goes on beeping and lighting on and off a few times. Now my light bulbs are fine so could it be a sensor going bad or loose wire harness? thats my guess, but if anybody has had this problem before please let me know. Other than that the truck seems to be running great. Strange I might say!!
  • Your story is the same as several others I have heard. No one, to my knowledge, has found a complete fix for these vibrations. Stay on your dealer and write letters to the factory. Hopefully when Dodge finds the fix it will be a no cost repair. Good luck.
  • I recently bought this truck (came back to Chrysler) after bad experiences with the Dodge Intripid 2005.


    My Malfunction Indicator Light came on again just after having it in the shop for this problem.


    Tech writes found code P0841 Indicating L/R pressure Switch Open...cleared code and road tested all OK.


    Anyone have an Idea what this is....Owners manual states when Light stays Illuminated contact dealer ASAP could cause severe engine problems..
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    Unless a new fault occurred, it's likely that the original fault recurred.


    Take it back and ask them to fix the fault instead of just clearing the code.
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,931
    My fault diagnostic trouble code (DTC) list must be out-of-date. It doesn't list a P0841.



  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    P0841 Transmission Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch A Circuit Range/Performance
  • Had a problem with my 2004 Dodge Ram 1500 4X4 with 15,000 kms. After driving thru a puddle or going thru carwash, 4WD (electronic shift) would kick in on its own. No way to clear problem unless I shut down engine and restarted. Chrysler engineering said they had never heard of such a problem in the past. Took dealer most of day to track down problem but did find a cable above transmission had been rubbing on drive shaft and exposed bare wire. Whenever it got wet, would short out and kick in 4x4. Passing this on in case anyone else has a similar problem.
  • roper2roper2 Posts: 61
    Had a noise i've been hearing for a while.When the truck sits over nite when I start it up everything is fine .After I drive about 2 miles when the temp starts to come up and stop at a light I could hear a slight ticking knocking noise coming from the engine area.When it gets up to runing temp I never hear it again.Took it to a mechanic he scaned it everything was good .The problem ended up to be the clutch fan had gone out.Replaced it and its fine now. Thought I would pass everyone.
  • I own an 04 ram hemi, performed and handled very well for about 1 year.The computer burned up along with 2 ignition coils and a few fuses.The selling dealer got it running again, but is definately a lot slower and performs very poorly since.The truck also shifts up into O/D and is very difficult to downshift,climbing a slight incline the engine will struggle instead of downshifting, you have to push the throttle almost to the floor to shift down.The throttle was definatly more sensitive before.I brought it back and complained, they said the diagnostic computer read everything OK, brought it to another dealer and the asst. service manager drove it and agreed there were problems.Again, nothing was done because the diagnostic computer said everything checked out.Before the problem occured, I could easily smoke the tires if I wanted to, now it is very embarrasing to even say there is a V8 under the hood,let alone a HEMI. I believe dodge updated the program which detunes my truck to avoid further damage to the weak drivetrain.I have driven other identical trucks, and the problem definately is there in my truck. I have been told by the dealers that the only other thing I can do is have a factory Rep. drive my truck, only then can any further work be done.Anybody else have the same problem or any insight on what else I can do?Is there anything I can do? Aftermarket programming, or throttle position sensors, or possibly as one technician hinted to me that I might find a computer that has not been updated and install that.Any help would be greatly appreciated
  • cujocujo Posts: 1
    gary i have the same problem. vibrates at 60 to 75. drive line vibration. dealer says that they are suppose to be like that. not true. not all have it . the problem is front drive shaft and angle the front axle has to be adjusted up 4 degrees. if you move it it will go away but your tires will wear. they do not have a fix for it yet. i went to 1 800 lemon law . i want out and will buy another without vibration. good luck. you should get lemon law started
  • Please provide additional information on this lemon law. I have the same problem, love the truck but hate the vibration issue. If there is a way to replace the vehicle without taking a huge financail hit I would like to know about it.
  • roper2roper2 Posts: 61
    I have 72k on this engine.I change the oil every 5k with full syn.This time of the year when I look in the oil fill tube and see all that sludge and goop in there would it be better for this type of engine to change more often? Can this engine hold up to 5k oil changes without a engine flush or a sludge problem with high miles?I know people have 4.7's with more miles than mine how are they holding up ? thanks
  • So any idea what this means...I have driven for over a week like this and have not noticed a difference in performance
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,931
    Oil sludge is formed when the motor oil accumulates moisture. Moisture is normally purged as the engine is run for a period at operating temperature. Engines that do not get a moderate amount of drive time at full operating temperature will suffer from oil sludging problem. Short trip driving, especially in the winter time, will accelerate this condition.


    You may be seeing a sludge build up just below the oil fill cap but that does not mean the inside of the engine looks the same way. On the 4.7 motor the Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) valve is placed just below the fill opening. The oil fill assembly is plastic and does not conduct heat well.


    As the engine is run the PCV valve pulls warm, moist air from inside the engine to this plastic oil fill assembly. In winter the temperature of this plastic assembly is cold enough that the moisture in the crankcase air condenses inside the fill assembly. With a combination of oil vapors the moisture turns the oil in this area to a sludgy form.


    I've never seen a 4.7 apart so I cannot provide absolute testimony, but I suspect that there is little to no accumulation of sludge in most other areas of the engine.


    On mine I do get a small amount over the course of the winter, but it easily cleans up in the spring with a little carburetor cleaner and/or the wipe of a clean cloth. If you're getting more than that then I suspect the engine is not getting a good hot run in your daily commuting.


    I run 0W-30 Mobil 1. Regardless of the miles on the oil, I change just before winter and as soon as possible in the spring for the reason of sludge. For me this usually means about 4500 miles of driving, maybe a little more. Mine does not exhibit any signs of sludging at the oil assembly during the warmer months.


    So far, with the exception of the visual signs of sludging around the plastic oil fill assembly, I know of no report of more serious sludging or engine problems associated with sludging on the 4.7.


    I hope this helps.


    Best regards,

  • roper2roper2 Posts: 61
    Dusty thanks for the information .
  • marsha7marsha7 Posts: 3,661
    my wife's 2004 Ram 1500 5.7L...I have converted over to Castrol 5W-30 Synthetic Oil, and I intend to change it every 5K miles, as in 5K, 10K, 15K and so currently has 1700 miles on truck, and she will probably put on no more than 1000 miles per month...that means that I will, assumedly, be changing her oil every 5 months...I know that with "real" oil, they always said 3000 miles or 3 months, because of the oil breaking down...will synthetic oil allow me to go 5 months, or should I change it every 3 months like in the "days of yore"...more info, she drives only 7 miles to work, city running only, but at least once weekly it runs at 70-75 mph for about an that hi-speed running sufficient to prevent water buildup and or sludge buildup???
  • sebring95sebring95 Posts: 3,225
    IMHO, with that type of driving you're probably more than covered at 5k mile intervals. 5k miles on conventional oil is more the norm these days, although with that much city driving I would recommend something like 4k miles on conventional, maybe 7k miles on synthetic. You might go 6k/6 months and make it real simple!


    I think you're more than covered either way. My VW has a recommended service interval of 10k miles when running synthetic. I've had the oil tested at 12k miles and it is still very clean, but I generally try to change it between 10k-12k miles. I could probably go 20k miles based on the testing, but would need a filter change prior to that. Plus I'm about 90% highway in that car. Most filters need replaced between 10k-15k miles regardless.
  • The front end is disengaging but the front driveline won't quit spinning. When 4wd isn't engaged it makes a clicking noise. Needless to say our fuel economy has dropped from 17-19 mpg to 13-14 mpg. Has anyone else experienced this and how can we fix it? Thanks
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,931
    One-thousand miles per month is average and with a synthetic you should be able to go 7500 miles at least before you might be breaking down the oil. The caveat is the climatic conditions and driving style. During the winter months in the snow belt you might consider a more frequent change due to the possibility of moisture and gum build-up from short trip driving.


    I've gone 9000 miles on my 4.7 Dakota with Mobil 1, which included a oil filter change at a approximately 4500 mile interval. The oil color change was less than moderate during that 9000 mile oil change. This was in summer months.


    The problem with longer oil change intervals on synthetic is that regardless how many miles can be driven with the oil still in the relatively close protection range, it still gets dirty and contaminated with moisture, acids, and other elements that cannot be filtered by the engine oil filter. That's why I change more frequently based on climate and/or driving pattern.


    To answer your other question about the 70-75 mph run once a week purging moisture out of the oil, it's hard to tell. It depends on how much moisture has been collected by the oil. High-speed operation for that duration will generate enough heat to evaporate the moisture, in my opinion, but it won't convert sludge back into oil. (That's assuming that the radiator thermostat is regulating the correct operating temperature, of course.)


    I would suggest checking the engine oil over time to determine if there is any appreciable amount of sludge build up.


    Best regards,

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