Dodge Ram: Problems & Solutions

ttemples

'01 Ram 1500, Quad Cab, 5.2L, 4x4, 55K miles

After driving on the highway for at least 10 minutes at regular speed (60 mph or up), and I come to a stop, I get this sound coming from the rear end when I take off. I can also feel it when it happens. It almost feels like I'm hitting ruts in the road when I take off, but only the rear tires are going through the ruts. It only lasts for about 20-25 feet then stops. It also only happens if I make right or left turns, never when I go straight after the stop.

It started doing it about 10K miles ago but wasn't nearly as frequent or pronounced as it is now. It used to actually feel like there was something heavy (like a cinder block) in the bed of the truck that slid a couple of feet and hit the tailgate when I took off.

I occasionally tow a 6,000 lb. trailer but have ALWAYS had my tranny and diffs serviced at 20K miles! My dealer could find no problems with it the two times I've taken it in. They will do "exploratory surgery" on the tranny and diffs if I want them to, though.

I don't want to take it back to them for that and would rather have a trans specialist look at it at this point.

Has anyone had similar experiences or know anything about this??? ANY help you can throw my way would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks!
email: trt67@att.net

angels3

Utlogger and loncray, thanks for the help. tire pressure helped a little I'm going to try the sand bags later. Changing the speed didn't seem to help that much. I don't really drive those two sections of road that often, so the tire pressure should do.

zshoeman

I recently purchased an 03 Ram 1500 with the new Hemi engine. Love it! Currently have about 2,500 miles on it. My only concern is it occasionally is rough shifting into 2nd and/or 3rd gear. This usually occurs when accelerating slowly in city traffic. Cannot get it to replicate on demand and it's infrequent so dealer can't address. Is this normal? My old truck was a 97 Ram 1500 and had no such problem.

utlogger

I have a similar problem shifting into 3rd with the six speed on my '01 2500. It only happens for a short time after starting the truck and shifts without the slight "grinding" after the truck warms up. I assume it's due to the fact that the transmission oil is more viscous when it's cold. To eliminate the problem while the oil warms up, try double clutching. In my case that stops the rough shifts.

zshoeman

Thanks for the reply. Unfortunately mine is an automatic.

02ramman

Zshoeman,
 
  Do you regularly drive it with moderate acceleration or heavy acceleration? If you do (mod or heavy)most of the time and then go to a slow acceleration you might get a rough shift. I had this with my old 02 QC auto and now with my 03 QC 5.7/auto. It has to do with the transmission "adapting" to the way you drive.
For instance, under heavy acceleration it will shift quicker/firmer and if you do this most of the time it will "learn" how you drive. Then later if you are gingerly accelerating it will Shift a little too hard until it can learn a new style.
Mine was shifting hard after it was bought.... i'd had it out several times in the floor for the test drive. After purchase a few days had went by and it was still shifting a little rough. I disconnected the battery for a few minutes, re-connected, and drove easy. It shifts smoothly now, but I can tell it drags the shifts out a little longer than it used to.
 hope this makes sense

zshoeman

02ramman

That makes a lot of sense. Being a new truck and enjoying the power of the Hemi, I do tend to kick it in a lot. My salesman told me he thought it might be the "computer" getting used to how I drive. I'm going to try unplugging the battery and see how it responds. Thanks.

dustyk

Although I've got a Dakota, my 4.7 has the same 545RFE transmission that's in the RAM. 02RAMMAN is correct. In fact, I've just the opposite problem. I normally drive in fairly sedate fashion. I will often want to pass somebody and will get a lazy throttle reaction. After driving it a bit aggressively a few times, it re-learns my new driving attitude and the shifts become more crisp and much more responsive.

It should re-learn after a while, however, without disconnecting the battery.

Dusty

02ramman

Long time no hear!!

chryslerblues

I have a 2002 Ram (15,270 miles) and just took it to the dealer to have the fluid changed in the rear end because I am going to start pulling a horse trailer. I received a postcard in the mail stating I should do this prior to towing. Went to pick up my truck after work and was told that when they took the pan off to drain the fluid, the rear end fell out! There was nothing but metal shavings. The only complaint I had was that my truck appeared to be sluggish. The guy couldn't believe that was my only complaint because of the shape it was in. Also, they found a major problem with the intake system??? Needless to say, they said it would be in the shop for at least a week:( Anyone else had these problems??

dustyk

Good to see that you're still here, too.

Been very busy at work and have had a major lifestyle change, so my access to the net has become limited. Good to hear from you.

Bests,
Dusty

helenp

Our 98 QC 1500, 2 mos. after warranty expired, had a whining sound in the rear end. Proved to be a totally destroyed differential. All the bearings were gone and the gears were worn. Prior to this we had replaced the front wheel bearings, air conditioner, and now it's in the shop because of one cracked head and one warped head. The engine has never over heated or shown signs of over heating. It has been serviced every 3000 miles. We were informed by the Service Rep. at the dealer that this is a common problem. Are we alone with this problem? We know we're not alone with the rust spots and premature fading of paint, and miss-fitted internal panels, but the camper shell is nice!

dustyk

HelenP,

Earlier differentials made by American Gear did have some problems, but your's would be the first '98 that I've heard that's had a failure of that nature.

I'm not sure what engine you have, but I've not heard one thing about warped or cracked heads. I checked with my local Dodge technician and he said he's never seen a failure of this type on any Dodge engine.

Dusty

blakev

I am trying to decide which model Ram 1500 QC to buy - a 4.7 2WD SB (MO), a 5.9L 2WD SB (MI), or a Hemi 2WD SB (MI & Mexico). Does place of origin, engine and tran, make any difference?Prices are within $4,300 of each other. Have leaned toward the 5.9 since renting two and loving them (after '02 Odyssey 5 sp. auto-logic tranny failures), particularly the first 5.9 which rode more smoothly (no difference from second 5.9 except power lock/door/window/seat package). Have tested several Hemis but can't get mpg to read out as high as 5.9 and ride and shifting were rougher. Also tested a 4.7 ST which had a smooth ride but noticeably less ooomph, and a 4.7 SLT which also did not get as high a mpg readout as the 5.9's. While I am 5 speed auto tranny shy after the Odyssey odyssey, I do NOT want another transmission failure which dusty indicated may be more likely with a 5.9 and 45RE tranny (what is a 45 RE tranny?) or some catastrophic steering failure on the highway as related in some posts which remind me of the Odyssey experience. I need something to tow a couple of horses occasionally and like the ease of a truck around the farm. SO, should I buy a RAM 1500 at all, given the horror stories about steering problems at high speed, and if so, should I go for the 5.9L w/ tow package which is the only thing still available with a 4-speed tranny, or should I go for the Hemi, or the 4.7 ST (the latter at considerable savings)? Which place of origin is best, if anyone has stats or knows? MO puts a sticker in the window showing some pride not mimicked by MI or Mexico plants. Is it warranted? If so, is it warranted enough to go with the 4.7 instead of the beefier 5.9 or Hemi?

Thank you for any advice. No disclaimer necessary. Not looking for a warranty from you. Just looking for experienced RAM owners to chime in, hopefully some with experience with all three models under consideration.

-V

emale

definitely get the hemi/5-45rfe tranny combo. the hemi will get better gas mileage than the 5.9l and prolly nearly as good as the much less powerful 4.7l engine. the 5-45rfe automatic was designed for a "minimum" life of 150k miles. the 5-45rfe is a "learn as you drive" tranny and therefore if you are a leisurely driver the shifts will become smoother and smoother over time. on the other hand the shifts will firm up and become crisper if you hot rod alot.

as for the steering problems....i've never heard of any steering problems with dodge trucks other than track bar problems which were fixed in the late 90s, but that would never affect the new 1/2ton since it has an independent front suspension...

dustyk

V,

First, I don't think the 45RE is available behind the 360 (5.9) engine, if it ever was. The base transmission in the half-ton RAMs with the 360 should be the 46RE. I think, and I could be wrong, that the 47RE is available in the half-ton series as an option, but that might be 4x4 only.

All of the 4-speed "RE" series transmissions received a number of design changes to increase longevity starting in the '98 model year. This includes significant increase in oil flow to the overdrive unit, one of the most common problem areas before '98. There's also improved fluid drain-back protection and new shift solenoid packs, also problem contributors pre-'98 versions.

The current "RE" series is based on the older A904 and A727 TorqueFlite transmissions, one of the most robust and durable units ever built. The addition of the overdrive unit in the '80s, really a modification, was a marginal design brought quickly into production. Most people never had a problem in this area, but snowplow operators and those that towed heavy loads often did have problems. Cold weather areas actually had higher failure rates.

For your purposes I would agree with Emale, the 5.7 Hemi and 545RFE combination is a rugged combination. The 545RFE is a very new design and more than adequate behind the 5.7 Hemi. I'm not aware of any common maladies with the 545RFE. As far as I can tell, there have been exceptionally few incident reports of problems and especially failures. The Dodge techs that I've talked to have never seen one apart, except in tranny school. I've heard of one failure on a '98 Grand Cherokee, but owner abuse was likely the cause.

I have never heard of a steering related problem with the new RAM series.

Best of luck,
Dusty

twinscrew

What are your transmission options behind the Hemi in a half ton 4X4? Kind of hoping for a manual trans. 4.7L/auto in my quad is a little lacking in the towing dept. That combo is probably more at home in a Dakota.

jcmdie

The 1500 series with the 5.7 hemi only comes with an auto trans. To get a manual you need to go to the 2500 series. You will likey have to order this configuration if you want it. The dealers don't like to stock the manual trans because they are a lower profit combo. I have yet to come across one.

atldodge

2003 Dodge Ram 1500 5.7 Hemi QuadCab SLT 2X4

I only have 550 miles on the truck and there is a ticking sound that has developed when I accelerate. I am not sure if it is coming from the exhaust or a valve. It almost sounds like a diesel when I take off. When I am in park and give it some gas I don't hear the noise. This leads me to believe that maybe it is an exhaust issue. Has anyone else had this problem? Thanks.

nit1195

I have a 2002 4wd 1500 QC, 4.7, with auto tranny with just over 18,000 miles. The other night I noticed that the red brake, and amber ABS warning light came on the dash. Everything seemed fine so I continued home and called the dealer. He stated that the ABS sensor probably crapped out and to bring it in a week from today. He stated that it was still ok to drive, the only thing is that I do not have ABS brakes.
Now my real question. I also told him that I was not happy with the mileage. AVG 13 mpg while doing 75 on the open highway for 200 straight. He said that it probably needed a tune-up. He said it is recommended every 15,000 miles. Not a major tune-up with plugs, just a adjustment for $85.00. Does this seem like I am getting hosed? What do you guys think.

Thanks
Chris

emale

chris,

sounds to me like they told you to "bend over" and take it like a man!!! 85 dollars to adjust what?? ask em' that and see what they say...!

dustyk

The "B" schedule maintenance does list a 15,000 mile (24,000 km) event that might contribute to decreased fuel consumption. That is a check or replacement of the engine air filter.

The first real service event associated with 287 (4.7) engine tune is at 30,000 miles (48,000 km), which is replace engine air filter, replace spark plugs, and clean/replace PCV valve.

Regards,
Dusty

emale

dusty,

the 4.7l doesn't have 100k mile plugs in it???

dustyk

Per the 2003 Dakota Service Manual, using the "A" schedule the spark plug replacement is at 90,000 miles (144,000 km). The "B" schedule is 30,000 miles.

Regards,
Dusty

dhewitt

2003 4WD 1500 QC SLT. Overall I really like this truck. Have had for two months now. My only problem is the lumbar support on the power drivers seat. Even with it set to minimum support it is too much and causes me to have a very painful back ache after 30-45 minutes. Have tried setting the seat every way imaginable. I've never had a vehicle where the seat hurt my back like this. The passenger seat feels fine. Appreciate any suggestions.

Thanks,
Dale

2truck

I am currently thinking of buying a qc 4X2. Was thinking of hemi or 4.7. Any ideas on which to get, and does anyone know of any mods to squeeze out a few more mpgs. I would really appreciate some ideas.

rmurray58

I have a 2000 2WD 1500 QC w/the 5.2L V8 Magnum and Automatic tranny. My battery shorted out and the ampmeter pegged at 18 volts and the check engine light came on. I drove it into to town and replaced the battery and had the alternator checked and it was O.K., but the check engine light has not gone out. My question is, "Could there be another problem or do I need to reset the check engine light?" If I need to reset the check engine light, can someone tell me how to do it. Also, since changing the battery the shift pattern or timing of the shift seems to have changed from what it was prior to replacing the battery. I've read on this board about the tranny's being adaptive, would changing the battery reset this back to factory and start the learning process over again? Any help would be greatly appreciated!! Thanks!!

dustyk

Rmurray,

First, is the charging voltage now in the normal range?

Dusty

dustyk

Well, there's a fairly big jump in performance going from the 4.7 to the Hemi. Some say that the fuel mileage will not be that different between the two engines, but from what I can tell the Hemi guys are somewhere between 12-14 and the 4.7 guys are between 13-17. Your driving style will make the biggest difference with either engine, but it's basically your decision.

If you have the need for the kind of horsepower that the Hemi can deliver, than the Hemi most certainly is one sweet motor. If your towing or heavy hauling requirements are little or seldom, in my opinion the 4.7 is more than adequate and you won'y have to feed all those ponies when you're not using them.

One nice thing about a "free society" is that you get to chose without having to justify it.

Best regards,
Dusty

hersbird

I think that any potential tranny problems with the powerful 5.7 hemi in front of a 545RFE auto have been solved by the use of full electronic controls on the engine and transmission. They have made the setup pretty idiot proof with even the throttle electronically controlled. What this means is that the ram is backing off the throttle (doesn't care what your foot is telling it to do) and timing in anticipation of a shift. Then the 545rfe is a marvel of electronics that give a soft easy shift. It would be much better for the performance enthusiast to ditch or override all these big brother controls, but what it means to the average Joe is good normal driving and towing power and a long lasting transmission. The electronic throttle is definitely backing off on a launch as well. When you floor my Quadcab it chirps pretty hard and leaves a couple 3 foot dark black marks, then it definitely lays down a bit to the point where it is still leaving a slight black mark and getting perfect traction pretty much all the way through 1st and into 2nd gear. I have no doubt that w/o the electronic throttle it would send the tires up in smoke on a full throttle launch. So it's good and it's bad, personally I would rather not have a truck think so much for me and it also makes any potential modifications less effective. According to a mopar interview, they said that just about any kind of mod you add will eventually be negated and compensated for by the computer. So until somebody cracks the computer you better be pretty happy with the stock truck. Actually I am really happy with the truck. I went from a regular cab Dakota R/T that was probably a little faster and handled better but that's about it. The Ram does everything else better and is nearly just as fast which is impressive considering it weighs 1000 pounds more and seems to be holding so of it's power in reserve. I had 1500 pounds in the bed yesterday and was towing another 3000 pounds and it was just a dream. The brakes are amazing and so is the ride (I have the 20" wheels on a 2wd). I guess I really have no problems that someday won't be solved by the aftermarket or Mopar Performance but though Id give my impression. At an extra $750 I think the Hemi engine option is a no-brainer, unless you have to have a 1500 truck and a manual transmission.

rmurray58

Dusty,

Yes, the charging voltage is in the normal range now after replacing the battery. Everything seems to be operating normally, i.e. no problems with ignition timing or anything electrical. The transmission is still shifting differently. It shift from 1st to 2nd around 3K rpm, from 2nd to 3rd at around 4K rpm, and into OD a few seconds after going into 3rd. Thanks for the reply Dusty!!

Rick

evalyn

Messages
 

I recently purchased a 1990 Dodge diesel. It has only 54000 miles on it. It is an automatic. I just returned from my first short trip pulling my 5th wheel which weighs approx 10000 pounds. Compared to my 1986 Ford with a 460 it seemed to lack power and tended to run hot (between the high normal range and the extreme hot mark on the guage)while pulling some hills. The outside temperature was in the 60's. Do they tend to run on the hot side and how hot is too hot? I have been told that it is possible to increase the horsepower by doing various things to the engine, has anyone else had this done and how successful was the upgrade. This is my first diesel so any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

loncray

Well, my '03 has the descendant of your '90 Cummins motor, and it runs nice and cool. That said, I've read that one of the reasons Dodge put that massive grille on the third generation trucks is so they could get sufficient air to the gigantic radiator to keep the big Cummins cool. As to increasing hp (called BOMBing - Better Off Modified, Baby!), I haven't started yet, but you'll want to get some gauges first - Exhaust Gas Temperature is the one most mentioned. After that, you'll want to have your tranny modified to handle more horses - the weak link in Rams is that tranny. Good luck and have fun!

treeman8

Hi everyone,

I notice that the back window and "front"/top of the box is somewhat curved. Have any of you tried to mount an aluminum cap on this? Does the curve result in a huge space between the cap and the cab? Does it look o.k.?

Thank you.

amorales

I just purchased a new '03 Ram 1500 HEMI-EXPRESS Laramie Club cab. Have owned Chevies, Fords and GMC. Am loyal to none. I have just under 120 miles. Runs spectacular so far. Have bought, leased and owned nothing but pick-ups since 1961. I really fell in love with the looks of this truck.

Regards to all truck loving people.

Andy
babyboomer hotrodder

mcl01

I bought a 2003 4X4 quad with the HEMI a month ago and have really enjoyed owning this truck. Its big and that has taken some getting used to but I love the ride. Gas milage has been pretty dismal but appears to be improving. I'm wondering if higher octane fuels would make any difference. Any ideas?

loncray

Mcl01, if the owner's manual doesn't mention giving your Hemi higher octane fuel, it won't do you any good. Might even drop your mileage a tiny fraction. The only cars that should be getting high-octane are those who's manufacturers call for it.

akjbmw

I agree with the assessment of the non-effect of higher octane than the system is set for. However...
I have noticed that if the load on the engine is such that the gas used causes pinging, a higher octane has made it better. Based on the location of the gasoline store (definitely not a "service" station) and the price, it was likely less octane than indicated on the pump. Altitude seems to be a factor as well, or I may have been trying to "justify" the extra expense of the HighTest Stuff.
Bottom line of post? Not all octane measurements appear to be equal. Let your ear tell you when it's time for higher octane.

Enjoy the miles of scenery slipping by...

jvc08070

I have a 97 2500 4x4 Ram and have a question. The pass. side headlight went out so I put in a new one. With the new one installed the low beam does not work but the high beam does. I reinstalled the original and same thing, (no low beam but have high beam). Is there a relay or fuse for just the side and the low beam? Or will I be chasing out a bad wire somewhere? Any help will be nice. Thanks Vince

amorales

my '03 Dodge truck Manual on pg 216-217 talks about using 87 and 89 octanes. The 5.7L is designed for 89. It states that using primium gasolenes will provide no benefit and in fact may result in poorer performance. I have 500 miles on mine and am using 89 Octane. Running great, no oil usage yet. Have taken it to 100 on a short pedal stomp.

I was wondering when to change the oil. I was thinking of using Mobil 1 10-30. Summer here near California desert can reach 108 deg F

Regards to all Mopar lovers,

Andy
babyboomer hot rodder

PS had a ticking sound at 280 miles. Then it disappeared..
I read there is a Kenne-Bell supercharger that bumps the HP from 345 to 519. Saw it in TRUCKIN mag.

iwphill

According to the card that was attached to my truck from the manufacturer, it states:

"Your engine is designed to operate on high-quality unleaded gasoline having an octane rating of 87 (NOTE: The 5.7L engine is designed to operate on fuel with an octane rating of 87 or higher, however, 89 octane is recommended for optimum performance). Poor quality gasoline can cause problems such as hard starting, stalling and hesitation. If you experience these symptoms, try another brand of gasoline before considering service for your vehicle.

The use of gasoline with a higher than specified octane rating is not generally recommended, and in some circumstances may result in poorer performance.

When pulling a heavy load or driving a fully loaded vehicle when the humidity is low or the temperature is high, us a premium (high-octane) unleaded fuel to help prevent spark knock."

Sounds to me like finding the right gasoline depends on your engine size, what your towing, temperature, humidity, etc. I have the 3.7L V6, and plan on using 87 (except for the above conditions). I've always heard that you should use the lowest octane that doesn't result in knocking/pinging.

pizza442

I'm a newbie and just bought a 1500 ST "Work Special" 3.7 HD5speed and I noticed it has a small power steering cooler mounted infront of the radiator. Do all the 1500,2500,3500s have this? The only other Mopar I have owned was a 78 Plymouth Fury ex-cop car and it, too had the power steering cooler which I already knew and expected the the Mopar Pursuits, but the truck surprised me; especially the V6 5 speed strippo. Maybe it came with the "Work Special" group?

loncray

I don't think that's a power steering cooler - probably a tranny cooler.

hersbird

It's different then the other Dodge truck motors in that it has knock sensors, you will never hear the pinging before the computer does and backs off timing (which will lower HP) and eliminates it. I'd run the 89 as recommended, and only run the 87 if you can accept a little less power.

emale

hersbird,

almost all engines these days have knock sensors. the thing i'm not sure about is whether the knock sensors on the hemi can take advantage of even higher octane than 89. i know chrysler does employ dual stage knock sensors (is that right terminology dusty?) on some vehicles. what that means is the electronics can take advantage of higher than recommended octane fuel to produce more engine power/torque.

hersbird

Maybe from other makers but the only Dodge truck motor with knock sensors is the Hemi. The HO 4.7 in the Jeep Grand Cherokee also has them but not the regular 4.7, and none of the previous motors did either. Some of the car motors from Chrysler have them as well, but the tune on most of the truck motors from Chrysler is so tame anyway they just don't need them. I don't think the Hemi will benefit from 91 octane stock. There are a few upgraded computers in the works that may require 91, but otherwise it's pretty clear from the owners instructions that there is no benefit, only potential detriment from using 91.

peppe1

Yes that is a power steering cooler all of the trucks come with that as standard equipment. Make sure you check the hose that goes from the rack to the cooler for leaks the clamp that they use at the rack is not tight enough for the pressure. add a gear clamp to prevent it from leaking.

pizza442

peppe1: Thanks for the tip. I'll check out that clamp. Now, is it just the Dodge trucks engineered with the steering cooler?

bmaige

How do you who own the HO diesel like it? Anyone having any problems with it? What kind of mileage are you getting with it? Especially those of you who have the 6 speed manual transmission. I am interested in both the 2 wd and the 4 wd mileage and would appreciate anyone who might be willing to share this information. I would also like to know the experience of those of you who own 3500's with the transmissions and rear ends. Oh, and one other thing. Do any of you change your own fuel filters on them? If so, how difficult is it to do?

Thanks for the information.

loncray

I've got an '03 2500 with the HO 6-speed 4x4 - and I love it! How I will ever go back to a lesser vehicle after this one, I don't know. When I first got it, I was getting around 18 mpg in city driving, over 20 on the highway. Since I added my tall cap, I'm getting around 14 or 15 in the city, 18 - 19 on the highway. This has been with about everything I can do to lower mileage - tall cap, winter fuel (up 'till recently), and driving like I stole the thing. I've had no problems beyond small leaks thru the rooftop clearance lights - all fixed now. I've let the dealer do the fuel filters, as well as oil changes. I'll do my own when I've got a place to do so. Mine apparently had the right amount of oil in the differentials, tranny and transfer case. Oh, and the 4x4 paid for itself this last winter - worst (best!) snow in many years in Northern VA and SE PA.