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Dodge Ram: Problems & Solutions

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  • 96dodge96dodge Posts: 12
    i had about the same problem with my 96 dodge and it was my fan clutch wasnt working right, it would run hot while i was in town stopping at red lights but on the interstate it would run normal you may want to check it out it could be your problem
  • marsha7marsha7 Posts: 3,670
    And for those that may not know, the clicking sound is the spark jumping from the wire to the grounded engine block or cylinder head...if that is the problem, you may find an increase in performance because once fixed, the engine will be running on all cylinders, rather than 5 of 6 or 7 of 8...do not confuse this concept with Star Trek's 7 of 9, because she was always running on all of her cylinders, if you catch my cosmic drift...I just slay me, don't I???... :P ;) :shades:

    Seriously, be sure to check the wire to be attached to the plug, and if it is attached, check for a broken plug insulator or a broken wire either where it attaches to the plug at the female socket, or the insulator where you grip to remove the wire from the plug...also, with 68K miles, it is possible that any one wire has had its insulation heated and cooked so that it has hardened and cracked, allowing any part of the wire to allow a spark to escape and shoot to the block...while wires should last longer, one bad wire can be a problem...if one wire is bad, buy a new set and you will be good for another 75K miles, easily worth your hard earned $$$... ;)
  • I don't know the answer to the problem, but my 99 Ram is doing the exact same thing. I didn't back into anything, it just started having the problems. My speedometer doesn't kick in until I hit 20 MPH. If you find an answer please let me know. Thanks,
  • luckyman1luckyman1 Posts: 29
    i have a 1998 ram 3500 van i its rear end is making a loud noise but it doesn,t hurt gas mileage or seem to hurt anything else should or is there anything i can do to get rid of this noise
  • KCRamKCRam Mt. Arlington NJPosts: 3,516
    Since this discussion is really for the Ram pickups, you may want to ask over in Full Sized Vans.

    kcram - Pickups Host
  • roper2roper2 Posts: 61
    In the 4.7 ram engine would it be ok to change oil useing full synthetic at 6000 miles? Ihave heard this engine likes to sludge up sometimes. thanks
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    Check the speed sensor. My first guess is that it's bad (intermittent).

    regards,
    Dusty
  • robsdodgerobsdodge Posts: 4
    Well I fixed an overheating problem with a new thermostat!Yaaa! Truck started great int he morning, but as soon as it warmed up it decided it did not want to start or so I thought. If I crank the starter and hold it, it will eventually fire up. It does bang and ping irradically but then finally catches with a roar of the engine(?) I popped the hood and heard an awful sound while it is idling crazily, it is a load hissing noise that goes away once the engine calms down. There is also black smoke coming out of the tailpipe, however it stops once the engine calms down and starts idling properly.
    I know this is long, sorry.
    Any suggestions on what to try? PCV valve already checked.
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    Hmmm. Have you checked or replaced the fuel pressure regulator?

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    I don't think that's quite true. The only issue I've seen and heard about is some sludge forming under the oil fill cap. To the best of my knowledge anything beyond that has never been confirmed here at Edmunds. Of course, the 4.7 has been so reliable that there are darn few that have been taken apart to see if sludging has appeared any where else.

    The issue with sludge at the oil fill is because the oil fill tube is plastic and runs quite cool compared to the engine block. In the winter the moisture that forms in the oil is condensed in this area because the PCV valve is pulling internal engine vapors into the plastic fill tube. The moisture being much warmer than the plastic body of the oil fill tube causes oil contaminated moisture to collect in this area.

    The first year I had mine I saw a light accumulation of sludge in this area, but the following two winters I have driven more daily miles and it hasn't collected any sludge there. Short trip driving, infrequent oil changes, or an engine not coming up to operating temperature for very long will cause moisture to form in the motor oil, which causes sludge.

    When I talked to my friendly Dodge technician about this a while ago, he said that the only 4.7 they had apart for a noisy lifter reveal a very clean engine inside even though there was a fair amount of sludge in the oil fill tube.

    Use a good oil, change frequently, and avoid short trip driving.

    Best regards,
    Dusty
  • robsdodgerobsdodge Posts: 4
    No I haven't and I will take that into consideration. I wonder how that would cause the loud "hissing" noise upon start-up?
  • dodgegirldodgegirl Posts: 5
    My husband is going to be changing the transmission fluid and filter in my 02 Ram Quad 4x4 and is wondering if there are any step by step instructions that we can find on the internet. He is fairly mechanically inclined (former diesel mechanic, now truck driver) and has not changed fluid in truck before. Local transmission shops are booked solid and we are leaving in 11 days to go to the dunes and want to get this done before we go. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks for any advice.
  • wreckwreck Posts: 4
    Tell the dealer to check the sensor in the cat. The noice is the sensor gone bad.. This is your problem.
  • ruderruder Posts: 3
    They ran the scanner on the computer and came up with a code P1740. Apparently that has to do with my torque converter. I took it to the dealership and the guy got in and we took it for a spin. Said the noise just sounded like some engine clatter...had nothing to do with the check engine light. He ran it through a bunch of diagnostics and said he couldn't find anything wrong with the torque converter or anything in my transmission at all.

    He basically just turned the check engine light off and told me to let him know if it comes back on. Said the computer might have registered a problem with the torque converter once and turned on the light...but that the light should have turned back off once the truck went through five or six clean trips with no problems. We drove it long enough that he registered ten clean trips, so he just said it should have gone off already...so he turned it off and told me to let him know if it comes back on again.

    gr
  • chowder63chowder63 Posts: 1
    I have a 1999 Dodge Dakota CC :sick:

    I have had this no bus problem the last two weeks. It has died on me at idle and at 70 mph. Then the No bus comes up. Usually i can res tart it but some times i have to wait a little while before re starting.. I tried the diag and came up with no code or errors. Comes up clean. Checked for lose wires, etc. Nothing seems bad. Has anybody come up with a real fix as of yet.. It is driving me nuts
    and i dont feel like giving the dealer another 1,000. How much does a used PCM go for? I just dont want to spend the $$$ for something that is not going to fix it. Any help would be great.

    Bob
  • tnvol1tnvol1 Posts: 1
    DID you find the problem yet.My 360 does the same thing and i heard it is possibly the throttle position sensor or speed sensor...
  • harts1harts1 Posts: 1
    i have a 2000 Ram 1500 conversion van. i have water (rain, car wash, etc) that leaks through the firewall above the gas pedal. any ideas? no debris clogging up anything.

    harts1 :confuse:
  • 0patience0patience Posts: 1,542
    Couldn't remember what topic it was, but since this is regarding the Dodge with the Cummins engines, I thought I would post it here.

    Somewhere I read someone mention using what ever filter a person desires.
    While this is mostly true, Chrysler released a service bulletin regarding oil filters and damage to the Cummins engines.

    Engine - Some Oil Filters May Cause Damage
    NUMBER: 09-004-01
    THIS BULLETIN INVOLVES 1989-2001 MY 2500 AND 3500 RAM TRUCKS EQUIPPED WITH THE 5.9L CUMMINS DIESEL ENGINE.
    DISCUSSION:
    Customer may complain of high oil consumption, grey oil smoke coming out of the exhaust or breather tube, or mechanical knocking. Neoprene compounds used internally in the manufacture of oil filters not recommended by DaimlerChrysler may separate from the filter, lodge in the piston cooling nozzle, and can fail the engine.

    NOTE: THIS IS NOT AN ENGINE DEFECT.

    NOTE: SECTION 2.7 OF THE TRUCK WARRANTY MANUAL STATES "DAIMLERCHRYSLER MOTORS CORPORATION IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR FAILURES RESULTING FROM IMPROPER REPAIR OR THE USE OF PARTS WHICH ARE NOT GENUINE DAIMLERCHRYSLER MOTORS CORPORATION / MOPAR OR DIAMLERCHRYSLER MOTORS CORPORATION / MOPAR APPROVED PARTS." DAMAGES CAUSED BY THE USE OF OIL FILTERS NOT APPROVED BY DAIMLERCHRYSLER MAY NOT BE COVERED BY THE NEW VEHICLE WARRANTY. DAIMLERCHRYSLER RECOMMENDS THE FOLLOWING OIL FILTERS. DO NOT USE ANY OIL FILTER CONTAINING NEOPRENE. PLEASE SHARE THIS WITH YOUR CUSTOMERS.

    RECOMMENDED OIL FILTERS FOR USE WITH CUMMINS 5.9L DIESEL ENGINE:

    Mopar 05016547AC
    Fleetguard Stratopore LF3894
    Fleetguard Microglas LF3552
    Fleetguard Cellulose LF3959
    Cummins Cellulose 3937695
    Motorcraft Cellulose FL896
    Purolator Cellulose L45335
    AC Delco Cellulose PF1070
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    In my experience differentials generally only get real hot on highway driving at longer durations. In that scenario a finned cover probably does offer some temperature reduction. For around town or average driving I'm guessing the benefit would be marginal at best.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • marsha7marsha7 Posts: 3,670
    dusty: thanks...right now this truck does city running, but will eventually travel on the road...may be worthwhile to change cover when I change fluid...

    dodgegirl: this is not to take anything away from your husband's talent, but draining the tranny and changing filter usually only changes about 3-4 quarts, I believe, of fluid...the remaining 10-12 quarts in the torque converter stays old and dirty...now that we have backflushing, they can change ALL the fluid by backflushing...you do not need a tranny-only shop, any repair shop has the equipment...Goodyear/Gemini shops are full service, and many tire shops or muffler shops have expanded into offering fluid changes...ask around, but do get it backflushed...then have a nice trip... :shades: :shades:
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    .......ask around, but do get it backflushed...then have a nice trip...

    But do get the filter changed and the pan cleaned as well, or have your husband do it after the flush. Sludge collects in the pan and metallic particles collect on the magnet in the pan. Also, while flushing renews the fluid, it can't clean the filter.
  • robsdodgerobsdodge Posts: 4
    The hissing sound that I hear is coming from a port in the back of the throttle body, there also appears to be a sensor of some port that plugs in the back of the throttle body. Can you identify this port and some possible causes of it "sucking" too much air
  • robsdodgerobsdodge Posts: 4
    Just identified the part on the throttle body as the IAC. If it is wide open on startup does that mean that it is defective or needs to be cleaned?
  • I just bought a 97 Ram 1500 and have had a little work done on it to get it back up to snuff. When I bought it the AC wasn't working so I had it recharged and it worked great....for about a week. Suddenly its blowing hot air. When I open the hood I can see that the compressor wheel is engaged and turning but then it clicks off for a few seconds, clicks back on for a few seconds, and then clicks off again. Before I bring it in and have them tell me the compressor is shot, is there an easier fix or adjustment that will cure the problem? Thanks!
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    More likely it's a refrigerant leak. The compressor clutch is signalled to disengage if the system pressure is too low. Don't forget, the original refrigerant went somewhere!
  • nobullnobull Posts: 7
    I HAVE FOUND THE CAUSE FOR THE VENTS CHANGING THE FROM VENTS TO DEFROST ON MY TRUCK THE SOLUTION IS THE SWITCH IN THE CAB ON THE DASH IS BAD THE VACCUM LINES ON THE BACK OF THE SWITCH ALL HELD VACCUM WHEN I TESTED THEM SO ITESTED THE SWITCH AND IT WOULD NOT HOLD VACCUM BAD THING IS YOU MUST REPLACE ALL THREE SWITCHES VENTS ,FAN CONTROLL,AND TEMP CONTROLL SOLD AS ONE UNIT GOOD LUCK AND YOU WERE RIGHT IT WAS A VAC.PROB JUST NOT WHERE YUO WOULD EXPECT :P :P ">
  • roper2roper2 Posts: 61
    Dusty thanks for the info. on this subject.
  • marsha7marsha7 Posts: 3,670
    Thanks for the comment...I had truly assumed (ah, assume) that if a station backflushed the tranny, that changing filter and gasket would be standard procedure, just that backflushing changes the tork converter whereas dropping the pan will not... ;)
  • jbaker2jbaker2 Posts: 1
    After replacing the exhaust on our 95 Dodge Ram 1500, it ran one day and now will not start. It does turn over/cranks, but there is no fuel pressure nor can you hear the fuel pump turn on when the key is at "on/run". Tested the voltage of the pins at the connector to the fuel pump, and when the key is in the "run" position we have 8V between 1&3, and 2&3, and close to 0V between 4 and any other. When we try to start it, we get less than 4V between 3&4, and still 8V between 1&3 and 2&3. Have replaced all related fuses and relays with no results. Help please?
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    Backflushed?

    That implies a reverse forced flow of ATF in the system. I'm not familiar with this. Many places around here do a "flush" by removing the return cooling line and allowing the transmission pump to bring fresh ATF into the transmission. In these cases I believe they do not remove the pan and change the filter, unless requested.

    Best regards,
    Dusty
This discussion has been closed.