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Dodge Ram: Problems & Solutions

17677798182105

Comments

  • A little more information about your truck would be helpful.
  • I found the key "BOB" for $5 (starting auction)on ebay, and then the instructions for $4.99. Much better than the price the dealer wants.
  • cbddcbdd Posts: 1
    I'm thinking of purchasing a short bed 4x4 3500 diesel for trips from northern california to baja, mexico. I plan to lift this truck for 33 or 35 inch all terrain tires for off-road sand, will be loaded with camper and be packed with equipment (2000#). Would like to know if the 3:73 or the 4:10 factory ratio gearing will work best.
  • I have an 01 with a 5.9 gasser, computer says #6 not firing its getting spark on #6 it has 110,000 miles on engine, spark plug smells like gas but is not wet, it was running fine then just started missing, I just bought it, it has real nasty battery connectors, someone has cut off the original ones and put on some clamp types, would bad battery connections cause this? how does the computer know that #6 is not firing? Also my 01 cummins goes through front brakes pads like you know what through a goose, I don't tow anything I noticed some pressure ports for the front and rear brakes at the valves, or whatever they are, some times its like the rear brakes work and you can actually stop the thing, can you check if there is any pressure going to the rear?
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    The injectors themselves are controlled by the PCM.

    Check the fuel pump and ASD (Automatic Shut Down) relays.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    Either there's a short in the parking brake circuit, or you are getting a fault declaration from the Anti-lock Brake Controller.

    If the brake system is working fine you may have a stuck valve in the Anti-lock Brake Hydraulic unit. But look for corroded terminals at the rear speed sensor.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • You will get better gas mileage with the 3.73. The 4.10 might give you just a little better accel. I bought a 05 3500 with 3.73, i have no problem pull loaded or unloaded.
    With bigger tires you might be better off going with the 4.10. The tow rating for the 3.73 is somewhere around 14000 lbs. and I think with 4.10 might go about 15000. Good luck, hope this helps you out :)
  • I have a 97 diesel with a 47RE trany and am experiencing some of the problems you mentioned in thread #846. I bought the truck used and believe the anti drain valve may have been removed because my oem service manual said it should be located in the cooler outlet (press) line near the rad lower tank? I've looked for it and can't find it. You mention it is located in the return line. Could describe it so I may confirm if mine is passing or missing. I have very high oil levels after it sits overnight and I have to let it run in neutral on a cold start before it will develop any launch pressure. Everything seems normal after runnig it a couple of minutes. I asked the local Dodge mechanic but he seemed unsure, any info you you can pass along will be greatly appreciated.
  • gjsgjs Posts: 3
    I guess more info would help, the speed sensor is for a 98 Dodge Ram 2wd 5.9L
  • '97 Dodge Ram 4wd 5.9 extended cab...

    Recently had a hitch and lighting harness put on by the folks at Uhaul. Hooked it up to my trailer and all the lights worked correctly. Once I got to my destinations and unhooked the trailer, started having all types of lighting issues....

    Right turn signal does not work, hazards do not work, ABS and "Brake" light indicators stay on.

    Idiots at Uhaul took lighting harness off, replaced some fuses and still had the same problem. Bulbs on right side look OK. Any ideas? Could the flasher cause just the right side not to blink?

    thanks,
    Mark
  • I am currently looking at either a 98 ram sport 4x4 short bed with the 5.2 v-8 70,000miles or a 99 dakota sport 4x4 with 47,000 and the 3.9 v-6. I know this is a broad question and will really be down to me driving etc. but from a general stand point would the dakota or ram be better? I will doing some off roading like in corn fields while hunting and some trails. I live in illinois and will have snow. Is one more reliabe then the other? The price will be close to each other so that is not really a concern. O yes they r both automatics. This will be my first bought car and jst want to get something that will last thanx for any info!!! Adam S. oo yeah I will have the ram wednesday night to look and drive.. is there anything I should look for trouble wise?
  • gjsgjs Posts: 3
    Disregard, bought the part at the dealer, all is well.
  • Dealer replaced the Central Timer Module, aka Front Control Module for $380. Said the problem is fixed. I take delivery of my truck tonight. Hopefully no more problems.
  • "Any time I hit a severe bump in the road the front of my 1996 Dodge Ram 2500 starts shaking and is very hard to control."
    I am also having the same problem on my 1996 Ram 2500! I had a bad ball joint and a leaky damper but that did not fix it. Its horrid! I cant drive over 65mph without fear of this happening. When it does I have to pull over and slow way down. Any help would be appreciated
  • akanglakangl Posts: 3,592
    Well, hubby's truck has finally done it, it broke something, lol......that's rare. Anyway, seems like in the past week or two the truck has been extremely hard starting warm or cold. Acts like it isn't spinning the starter fast enough to engage it. Battery is new so I think that can be ruled out. Any ideas?
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    Has the weather been getting colder in the last couple of weeks? Does it need thinner oil perhaps? Could also be a tired starter............bad ground..........glowplug problem?
  • I have a 2001 Dodge Ram 4X4 with the automatic transmission. My tranny just went out at 43000 miles. I would recommend looking around for info on other people that have had problems with Dodge transmissions before you buy your Dodge.
  • akanglakangl Posts: 3,592
    Has the weather been getting colder in the last couple of weeks? Does it need thinner oil perhaps? Could also be a tired starter............bad ground..........glowplug problem?

    Let's see, yes the weather is cold, however, that's not the issue. Even when the engine heaters are plugged in the truck is hard to start. It has 0W-30 synthetic in it so oil can be ruled out, its a gas engine, so no glow plugs.

    We are guessing the starter, but wouldn't it grind rather than turn over slow? That's the whole issue, the starter doesn't spin fast enough to engage the engine, but I've never seen a starter go that way before, they alway start grinding. Hmmmm.....

    The truck has approx 42k miles on it (yes, that's really 42,000 lol). :P
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    The starter will grind if there's a problem with the drive gear or bearings, but it won't make any audible sounds of distress if the windings, armature, or brushes are failing.

    The other point you didn't address was a bad ground. That can cause a voltage drop which will give your symptoms. Were the connections cleaned when you fitted the new battery?
  • Don't rule out the battery just because it is new. Have it checked with VAT machine or a handheld device. It could have a bad cell.
  • Does anybody now where I can get the spring keepers for the clutch packs for a 9.25 trac lock rear end (03 1500 )local dealerships have been no help

    Thanks , Brian
  • akanglakangl Posts: 3,592
    To our mechanic tomorrow, he's right next to where I work. He said he'll check the battery and all the connections, also mentioned checking for a bad ground along with checking the starter. I just hope that I can get the old girl started when its time to leave work at 11 pm! :surprise:
  • I am having difficulties locating the oil sending unit on my 1999 Dodge Ram 2500 Diesel. Does anyone know where that sucker is located?
    Thanks
    Frankie
  • Found the problem. When the yahoo attached the hitch to the frame, he squished a group of wires between the frame and the hitch. I had to unscrew the hitch and wrap each with individually, replace a few blown fuses, and everything worked great.
  • Also the generator my be bad not charging the battery enough. So have him do a complete charging system check.
  • KCRamKCRam Mt. Arlington NJPosts: 3,516
    As noted in the post box and our Rules of the Road - http://www.edmunds.com/townhall/rulesoftheroad.html - we highly discourage posts with email addresses and/or requesting off-list emails. It benefits everyone when information is shared here in the Forums... people can often find answers to their questions just by reading previous posts. Posting your email address also leaves you vulnerable to those who will use it maliciously.

    Thanks!
    kcram - Pickups Host
  • KCRamKCRam Mt. Arlington NJPosts: 3,516
    Yet another victim of the well-documented Death Wobble.

    Things to check when DW is occurring:
    - steering stabilizer
    - tie rod ends
    - ball joints (all of them)
    - track bar
    - tire balance
    - shock mounts
    - caster angle

    Any of the above can cause DW. It is usually solved by a suspension specialist... Moog parts seem to do better than Mopar.

    kcram - Pickups Host
  • akanglakangl Posts: 3,592
    I think our mechanic is a wizard......lol, he always amazes me. He checked the truck over, checked the entire charging/starting/electrical system and found a bad battery connection.......fixed it and the truck is fine. Starts right up just like old times. He said he would charge me $40, but when he stopped by my work to pick up the money he wouldn't take more than $20, said it was too easy of a fix.

    Here we were staring down the barrel of a $300 repair and he fixes it for $20.......talk about GOOD NEWS!! :D
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    Glad you got it fixed so cheaply. Just curious, but was he the guy that fitted the new battery in the first place? :shades:
  • 2005 Ram 1500 Quad Cab 4x4, 5.7 hemi, auto trans.
    Squealing noise coming from under vehicle when engine is warn. Sounds like slipping belt but is not. noise is evident weather trans is in gear or not. when vehicle was on lift noise appeared to be coming from between where the engine and trans join. dealership claims this sound is normal and can find nothing wrong. any help or comments are welcome.
This discussion has been closed.