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Nissan Altima Care and Maintenance

24

Comments

  • I got a 97 Altima last night and it's listed as a '97.5' model. Does anyone know of what makes this different?
  • I've had several experiences along with some of my friends and I wouldn't trust the warranties outside of Nissan. Yes you can get reduced prices from aftermarket groups but they charge you up front and then go out of business a year later and you have no where to go to get your money back. Check out the horror stories on the BBB web site, J.D. Powers and Kelly Bluebook. Some dealers use these outside providers, sell you the policy, and then tell you they aren't responsible, you have to go to the provider. Check with the BBB before buying. I finally went with Nissan because I'm confident they will still be there long after my cars gone. I got bumper -to-bumper 72K/100,000 for $775 from Nissan.
  • jmorjmor Posts: 1
    paid 1355 dollars for a 72month 100,000 warantee . I am seeking true value of this gold premieum guarantee? appreciate information. paid 22500 for 3.5 se auto just mats and auto splash guards . jmor
  • ray_h71ray_h71 Posts: 212
    I'm just a visitor who drives another make car. If your owner's manual specifies unleaded regular gasoline (87 octane), the use of higher octane gas is usually tantamount to burning money and farting it out the exhaust. You will usually experience NO increase in mileage or power with unleaded premium (91 octane). The exception to this is with engines equipped with "knock sensors" wired to the ECM. The sensors are essentially microphones (more correctly, "transducers") screwed into the block which feed the rappings of subaudible (to human ears) "pinging" to the ECM which will then retard the ignition timing to just under the threshold that set off the sensors. These engines give drivers the best of both worlds. They don't ping on 87 octane, yet when 91 octane is pumped, the ECM responds by advancing the ignition timing up but not above the setting that allows smooth operation without pinging. The engines with these devices are literally self-tuning while you drive. Bottom line? About 3-5 additional horsepower if you're willing to pay the price of 91 octane, but no engine damage if you're satisfied with the performance of 87 octane. I have no idea whether the engines installed in Altimas are equipped with knock sensors, but consulting your dealer's service department should provide the answer. Also, if your owner's manual or a sales brochure happens to list a compression ratio of more than 9.5:1 for Altima engines, it's a good bet there IS/ARE knock sensors aboard. (I-4s, usually one, but two for V-6s)
  • gsemikegsemike Long Island, NYPosts: 1,743
    I'm closing in on 10k miles on my 2.5S. I know that the stock Conti tires have been largely criticized by many people here. I'm generally OK with them, but was wondering just how long should I expect them to last for? What have other people purchased and how did it go?
  • I purchased my 02 Altima with those horrible tires. They were very well, (atleast in my opinion) for the first 13000miles or so. After that first year, they were making this horrible howling sound. It seemed like all 4 tires were making that sound, the rear tires in particular were very loud. At one certain point, i had to raise the volume of the radio to downplay the sounds they were making. it sounded like i was running the car on flat tires. After numerous complaints to the dealer, they only wanted to replace the 2 rear with the same crappy tires which didn't help the situation at all. So I finally decided to purchase some new tires at a local tire shop in my area. Although I've never heard of these tires before (Sigma) they were very smooth, quiet, and had a very long warranty. I had to upsize a bit, cause I believe they only had 2 tires available for the altimas tire size. But, so far so good.
  • gsemikegsemike Long Island, NYPosts: 1,743
    I ran over a bottle the other night in my 03 2.5S and took a flat. I had heard alot of complaints about the Contis but I never had a problem with my ties. The reason why, much to my surpise, I've got Bridgestone Turenzas. The cost almost twice as much as the Contis, but with tires, you get what you pay for. I'm just wondering, how did I end up with Bridgestones?
  • cedomancedoman Posts: 2
    I have a 03 3.5SE...and yeah the continentals do suck very much due to the road noise, wear and hydroplane... I am thinking of buying the Yokohama H4's because of their price...and also because of the great rating they have on tirerack.com. What other tires should I consider that are less noisier and considerably priced?
  • I just bought the Michelin Hydroedge 215/60R-17. What a difference in every aspect. They are a perfect replacement the Brigdestone Turanzas and the Continetals. Very quiet, great on wet roads, excellent grip and they do not rub up agaisnt the tire wall if that is what some readers are thinking. The slightly bigger profile size of the tire prevents them from blowing when you hit a pothole and protects the bushings of the car from being pounded all day like the stock Turanzas did I bought them online for $544 with a rebate offer of $40 from discounttiredirect.com.
  • gsemikegsemike Long Island, NYPosts: 1,743
    I have a 2003 2.5S with just under 16k. It's recently developed a problem where the engine emits a squeaking noise on first start up in the morning. The sound is definitely coming from the front of the engine. As the car warms up, the squeaking quiets down but I am not sure if it goes away all together. I haven't noticed any degradation in engine performance.

    Since it's summer, the car is not getting overly cold so I'm worried that something may not be getting lubricated correctly. Has anyone encountered this problem or heard about a TSB on this?

    Any info will be greatly appreciated.
  • kdarmkdarm Posts: 4
    I can't speak for the 02 but my 1994 model has over 200000 miles on it.
  • I have a 1997 Nissan Altima. I purchased the car last year as a student. Recently, the car which was running great suddenly started making a loud "boom" noise and when I took to Amoco Car repair they said that the exhaust pipe was rusting off and I needed to replace it. they quoted something around 600$ for this.

    Is there a better way/ cheaper way to do it?

    Since I dont use the car that much and it already has 125K miles on it (built in 1997) I was wondering if anyone could advice me of an efficient and cheap way to do it? If you guys feel that replacing the exhaust shall be the best way please feel free to say so.

    Thanks a lot!
    Suj, Minneapolis.
  • annie5annie5 Posts: 1
    dear 427435 -

    My '02 Altima is doing the exact same thing. Did you even figure out what it is that causes this weird phenomonon?

    Thanks,
  • pbarnardpbarnard Posts: 2
    I had a similar issue with a nissan truck many years back. You might need belts tightening. They squeak until they warm up.
  • gsemikegsemike Long Island, NYPosts: 1,743
    I just had my 03 2.5S in for maintenance and inspection and was dismayed that I need new brakes pads all around. I live in an urban area so I do alot of stop and go driving, but I think that I'm pretty easy on the brakes.

    Do new pads all around at 22k sound premature? Has anyone else done this this early?
  • botharambotharam Posts: 1
    I bought a 1995 Nissan Altima with 138K miles on it. Its an Automatic transmission. The engine starter is going bad. I had got the brushes of the starter freed. But that is just a temporary solution. Is rebuilding the starter a good idea or just getting a new one would be the best bet. Also how much do u think it should cost.
    THanks
  • How do I reset the tire rotation and oil change warnings on a 2005 Altima? Is this something the dealer is going to overcharge me for? I had the oil change (Mobile One and rotation done for $75. I know Nissan charges a lot more than that.
  • carsickcarsick Posts: 2
    My 02 has 13000 miles and needed new brakes and rotors (rear). I called the dealer and the nissan HQ they did nothing for me and the bill was $525.00
  • Hi Sujeet13
    I just repaired similar problem myself.

    You will need to spend about 1-1.5hours under the car, have enough willing to save 600 and have few basic tools.

    What I did: Went to Pep Boys and purchased the following, pipe extensor (about $3 each) that is wider on one side than on the other. I bought 3-4 different ones and retured the ones I did not need after I picked the correct one. I also purchased high temp resistent gasket, high temp resistant silicone filler and 2 clamps

    It was all about may be $15 or so.

    Actual steps are
    If the pipe actually broke of you put in gasket first and than after you figure out which extensor fits the best you connect 2 pieces together.
    You may need to muscle the pieces far apart in order to insert the extensor. But because the exhaust is placed on rubber holders it is not a big problem.
    Make sure extensor piece sits very tight, after that you put silicone at the places of contact of extensor and both ends of pipes to prevent any small leak of smoke from it. Than place clamps to secure the entire set up on both sides.
    In addition you may try to somehow secure the exhaust to the body, (optional, - you can purchase connectors at the store as well for about $5-6)
    This fix will last for some time.
    I just redid the work again, about 6 months after I first did it.

    You can also find a mechanic who would agree to meld pipes together. That would cost about $50, if done well it's the best but it may brake at the site of melding if not done so well. Of course if the pipe itself is very rusted, than sorry buddy you need to change the pipe.
    I'm sure in that case you can find used one at the junk for fraction of $600.

    Good luck
    Misha
  • The reset is easy, turn the key on, but don’t start the engine, push (to the floor) and release the gas pedal three times within five seconds. If you did it right the Change Oil Soon should flash, which means the system is resetting. Turn the key to off after the light has finished flashing, then start the vehicle. If the light comes back on, the system has not been reset. Just repeat the procedure. The “Service Engine Soon” warning light is a different story. That warning light is the vehicle’s engine computer letting you know that something is not right. There is no resetting this warning light with a hokey pokey move. You’ll need to have a technician plug into your vehicle’s computer. The computer will provide a diagnostic trouble code (DTC) with a brief system fault description. Once that information is obtained, diagnosis of the problem can be performed.
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