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Nissan Altima Maintenance and Repair

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  • xmechxmech Posts: 90
    "All engines have either a timing chain or belt."

    Not so. Some use gears.
  • What can cause dash lights, dash indicators and gauges, and the radiator fans to all go out at once? I had an alternator sieze up, then after it started turning sparks flew from the alternator. We fixed that, but everything else is still dead, including the radiator fans! Checked all the fuses in the drivers side fuse panel, and they're fine. Where else should I look?
  • The solution could be complicated or simple, but need more information to be able to help. Please state the Year and model of your car, is it 4 cylinder or 6 cylinder?
    I understand you had a problem with the alternator and it sparking. When you say "We fixed that", does that mean you replaced the alternator with a new one? We must make sure that the alternator problem is resolved. Have you tested the output of the alternator to make sure it is puttting out the correct voltage and amps? How is the battery? You say "but everything else is still dead", is there any electrical device on the car that works? With the engine not running, what electrical items Do work, like headlights, brake lights, or anything? If you have complete electrical failure, or near that, there may be a blown fuseable link OR one of the big fuses under the hood may be blown. Use a 12 volt test light to check for blown fuses. Post anwers to the above and we can continue from there.
    E.D.
  • Thanks for the reply. Here's mre info. It's a 1998 Altima, 4-cyl. When the alternator bearing froze then unfroze then the alternator threw sparks, we replaced the Alternator. So it's a new alternator. The dash lights are out, the gauges are out, and the electric windows are out. But the radio does work. The turn signals don't work, but headlights, taillights, and brake lights do work. The car will start, but quickly overheats due to the radiator fans not working. We looked at the fuse box inside the driver side kick panel, and all the fuses look to work. We don't know where to look under the hood for fuses or fusible links, so we haven't looked there.

    Steve
  • I don't believe this is a job for a novice. I would go to a windshield repair shop or auto body shop. It means (usually) removing armrests and the door panel. There is an actuary of some sort and/or motes in some cars. The trouble I used to run into was in prying off the door panels without doing damage.I uppose thi might be something covered by the warranty, however, in these trying times for dealers, it might pay for a dealer to get this repair done in-house without charge. I have found on some of hese types of problems, the person running the dealer's parts department can be a great source of advice.
  • corrections to my post. Here It means (usually) removing armrests and the door panel. There is an actuary of some sort and/or motor in some cars. The trouble I used to run into was in prying off the door panels without doing damage.
  • The SES light came on a few days ago on our 04 Altima. Codes read 335 crankshaft position sensor and P0725 engine speed input circuit malfunction. I cleared the codes once but came back after a couple of weeks. Car runs fine. Any idea what these codes are telling me a what will it take to correct? Thanks.
  • I am not familiar with the 1998 Altima, just the 2002. It sounds like you have a partial loss of power. Since the fuses in the inside panel fuses are ok, I would look for the problem in the large fuses or fusable links, but I do no know the locations of these items in your car. There is usually a fuse box with larger fuses and relays located under the hood. Fuseable links may be located near the battery, wiring harness or starter & larger wiring. You might find this info by searching the web or puchasing a repair manual. Replacing the fuse or fusable link would probably fix your problem.
    The original problem goes back to the alternator, the alternator could have been the problem itself, or a major short in the wiring could have blown the fuse or link and overloaded the alternator, causing the alternator to fail. If it gets too deep for you, you may need an electrical specialist to look at it.
    Good Luck,
    E.D. in Sunny Florida
  • >>> Well it is fixed, turned out it was a bad MAF.
    See this thread: http://x.nissanhelp.com/forums/altima/12258-97-se-cutting-off.html
  • gsemikegsemike Long Island, NYPosts: 1,760
    I have an 03 2.5S with 53k on it. I called the dealer today and asked about outstanding recalls that haven't been addressed. They told me that I need to bring it in for an ECM reporgram. They didn't know of anything else they said, but I could swear that there was something about the cam position sensor. Was that a recall too? Any others?
  • I hit a deer last night with the right front end of my car. Shattered the headlight assembly but thats it. Now neither turn signal works, everything else works. Brake lights, headlights, rear turn signals, etc. Replaced the fuse still doesn't work. What could be the problem?
  • I have an '09 Altima with less just under 2K miles. Since the start I noticed that whenever I have to turn the steering wheel right from the slightest bit to full turns, it feels like there it more resistance compared to turning left. I feel like I have to put more energy in turning right as funny as it may sound. Anyone else have a similar problem or any recommendations besides bringing it into the dealer? Thanks.
  • whitallwhitall Posts: 187
    Ok, this might be a dumb question...but do the 2008 Altimas have any known electrical issues? It's probably my amplifier that I installed in April when I got the car....but today (twice) the car took several tries to start...it made a noise like it was trying, but took several attempts. Tonight it had to be jumped. It has about 25k miles on it. I bought it used in April. Haven't had any trouble or noticed any dimming. It is a 1200Watt amp and it has a capacitor. It is wired properly so it shuts off with the car. I don't sit and run the system when the car isn't running.

    I will go to autozone and have the battery checked. I'm thinking it's probably just a crappy factory battery that can't handle anything other than factory system (non Bose). Wondered if anybody else had battery give out so early.If it's "normal" for it to last only original warranty period of three years, it would be OK, I'm sure my system will have some shortening effect. My mom's Murano battery (25k 2006) had to be jumped after only 45 minutes of sitting w/lights on one night. Not sure if they had in acc mode or off w/lights on.

    I guess I have to disconnect the amp to get it serviced under warranty??? I do have a wire from the battery to the trunk that I'd have to remove...

    Any thoughts on this? Any other section I should post it? Thanks
  • I heard that as well...factory battery is not that really good. Average life is about 3 years. My sister has a years old Sienna and she just replaced her about 3 months ago. So, if the original owner bought your car in late 2007, it's about 2 and half years old already.
  • whitallwhitall Posts: 187
    Autozone said it was bad. It would take a jump, but their tested showed it just into the bad reading. Jumped it to get it there, but wouldn't start after we parked. Tested it with a load and seems like alternator working. Opted for new battery (duralast gold) because to take out the amp wiring to take it to Nissan, and possibly wait for an appt didn't seem worth it at the time. If it happens again that's what we'll do. People are split 50/50 on how to properly configure the electrical for an amp and subs. Some say to make all these changes, others don't.

    Would still like to know just how poor Nissan batteries are since I have another one!
  • This car has ran great ever since I have owned but now it is starting to give me some problems that have recently gotten worse. It was only driven a couple of times a month for about 2 years, but recently my wife went back to work and had been using it every day for the last 6 weeks or so. All of a sudden, whenever you were driving and let off the gas when you were coming to a stop light, it would stall out. I thought maybe the fuel filter was getting clogged up, so I changed it out. This didn't fix the problem. Now I took it to a mechanic. The pedal was sticking a little bit, so the mechanic thought maybe just the dirty throttle body was the problem, so he sprayed cleaner in there and got that working right again, but it didn't fix the problem. After checking it out more, we decided to adjust the throttle up about 150-200 rpms at idol and that seemed to fix the problem. What was going on was the engine would drop too low on rpm and then stumble and die before the idol could pick back up properly. We thought that maybe the gas had gone bad since it went so long without being driven that something in the fuel system may have been getting clogged up. I bought some chevron techron fuel treatment ($12 version) and put a half a bottle in the tank.
    It ran good for about 2 weeks, but now it has started running very badly, won't keep running unless you keep your foot on the gas revving it up a little bit and it sounds like it is missing pretty bad.
    Any ideas what could be causing this? I am going to change the plugs today and see if that helps, but I don't really think that is the problem. The car has 170,000 miles on it (i have owned it for about 10,000) and has ran good ever since I had it until recently. Only maintenance I have done to it was a couple of years ago I changed the oil and air filter (car was only driven 1000 miles in the last 2 yrs.)

    Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

    Rob
  • gsemikegsemike Long Island, NYPosts: 1,760
    I just replaced the factory battery on my 03 last month. It lasted almost 7 years and 53k miles
  • My 2003 battery was murdered by a bad altenator.
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