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Nissan Altima Maintenance and Repair

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  • Vacuum leak in the intake. Nissan dealership spotted it right away.
  • I recently found that i had a mouse in my blower of my 1997 altima. My dad removed the glove box and did work under there and got the mouse out. Besides the mouse we found a lot of leaves, sticks, and other things. To my knowledge this the blower should be sealed and I shouldn't be getting this stuff in there. Is there anything I can do to seal it or fix this problem?
  • Well, the vacuum leak in the intake was fixed but I am still stalling! Now they tell me it may be the Idle Air Control Motor. Anyone ever have this problem?
  • I have a 2000 nissan altima. The other day I was driving and my boyfriend went to change the radio station and his hand accidnetally bumped the driving gear. The car went from Drive to neutral, it jerked and stopped and the car behind us almost hit us. I always thought that the gears were not supposed to change unless I had my foot on the brake. Can anyone give me any suggestions, I do not want this to happen again. I don't know what would have happened if I was driving faster or the highway.
  • My 97 Altima seems to be out of breath. It starts fine but sputters and stalls after several minutes of driving. I have encountered another message board that specifically addresses this problem. However none have found a solution. They have had major tune ups, they have changed the PCV valve, fuel filter, air filter, plugs, wires, distributor cap etc. and yet they failed to fix it. Could this problem be tied to the exhaust gas recirculation system, or oxygen sensor. Can anyone offer any more suggestions.
  • I purchased a 2002 Altima with 2.5 DOHC (variable valve timing engine) new and now have over 65,000 miles on the car. It has a very annoying intermittent cold start problem the dealer could not define under warranty, further more the dealer states that all the 2.5 DOHC engines have this problem and the only fix Nissan offers is to hold the gas pedal to the floor and crank the engine over until it starts. When the engine finally starts there is a lot of black smoke from the exhaust a result of unburnt fuel, the E.P.A. should decertify the car for this. The official explanation from Nissan for this no start in cold weather is that the vehicle floods, and if the customer writes to Nissan he is assured there will be NO written response.
    I have researched this problem and found the flooding is a result and not a cause of the no start condition! The real failure has more to do with variable valve timing.
    What really happens:
    1 During a cold start in cold weather the oil is very thick.
    2 The E.C.M. (engine control module) tests all the components – this happens every start cycle but this problem only occurs intermittently during cold weather cold starts.
    3 The I.V.T. (intake valve timing control solenoid) receives its test pulse but due to the thick cold oil can drive the intake cam to an over advanced condition.
    4 With the intake cam advanced for operation beyond 2,000 RPM and the starter motor cranking the engine below 500 RPM the near static compression is nil compared to the dynamic compression of a high revving motor with an advanced cam.
    5 Cold cranking an engine with low compression while injecting fuel results in a flooded engine.
    6 Holding the gas pedal down while starting from this failed condition causes more fuel to be injected, more air to flow through the engine and the throttle position sensor to tell the E.C.M. that the throttle is wide open. The E.C.M. senses the RPM of the engine is at cranking speed (too low for an advanced cam), The PHASE (camshaft position sensor) signals the E.C.M. that the cam is advanced and the E.C.M. commands the I.V.T. to retard the cam, however since the oil is still cold and thick this takes several cycles to work – resulting in more flooding until the engine finally starts.
  • gsemikegsemike Long Island, NYPosts: 1,760
    My 03 Altima is sitting at 7400 miles so I downloaded the maintenance schedule here. Besides the oil change and tire rotation, is any of this stuff worth paying for? I mean, $20 to check the in-cabin microfilter? If I wanted to put a few hundred dollars into my car every few months, I would have bought used.
  • All you need is the oil change and tire rotation. The rest you can decide if you need it checked out. Unless you have weird smells or the air or heat doesn't work right. I wouldn't worry about the microfilter until about 12000-15000 miles and then you can change it yourself.
  • gsemikegsemike Long Island, NYPosts: 1,760
    I know that they need to make money on service, but $20 to check the microfilter and another $20 to check the brakes? If they're rotating the tires anyway, won't it take them 5 minutes to check the brakes? I've got better things to do with my money.
  • I have dealt with different dealers for 30 years or more and they all try to enhance their so called preventive maintenance concept. With all new cars unless you have a problem with something oil changes and tire rotation are about 75% of the required maintenance. I usally get the coolant changed around 30000 miles. Most of the other checks I do myself.
  • gsemikegsemike Long Island, NYPosts: 1,760
    I took my car to the local Great Bear shop instead of the dealer. The did the rotation and oil change for $26.00 incl tax. They gave it a good once over and gave it a clean bill of health. There is nothing like preventive maintenance to make a car last, but don't throw money away either.
  • Good to hear you didn't have to spend all that money for unessary checks on your car. good luck and happy motoring.
  • aftyafty Posts: 499
    The microfilter is easy to replace by yourself. I wouldn't pay the dealer to do it. Same with the engine air filter.
  • gsemikegsemike Long Island, NYPosts: 1,760
    I've got an 03 2.5 S with conv package and fog lights. The conv package gives me the auto lights, a feature that I really like. If I'm driving around during the day and go through a tunnel or underpass, the headlights and foglights will both turn on. Once I get back in the sunlight, the headlights turn off but the foggies stay on. When I eventually turn the car off, the foggies remain on and the warning buzzer sounds. Have other people experienced this? Do I have something set wrong or is there an electrical problem with my car? I would expect that the foggies should turn off when the headlights do?
  • Karen_CMKaren_CM Posts: 5,020
    ...just want to give everyone a heads up about some changes taking place in an effort to organize and make it easier for members to find the most appropriate discussion for their question/comment.

    This discussion will soon be combined with the "Nissan Altima Owners: Problems & Solutions", which resides in the Nissan Maxima Owners Club. However, the combined topics will also appear here in M&R. If you are subscribed to this discussion, you will need to re-subscribe when the change takes place.

    If you have any questions/concerns, please address them to me in email, karen@edmunds.com.

    Community Manager If you have any questions or concerns about the Forums, send me an email, karen@edmunds.com, or click on my screen name to send a personal message.

  • gsemikegsemike Long Island, NYPosts: 1,760
    I've got an 03 2.5 S with conv package and fog lights. The conv package gives me the auto lights, a feature that I really like. If I'm driving around during the day and go through a tunnel or underpass, the headlights and foglights will both turn on. Once I get back in the sunlight, the headlights turn off but the foggies stay on. When I eventually turn the car off, the foggies remain on and the warning buzzer sounds. Have other people experienced this? Do I have something set wrong or is there an electrical problem with my car? I would expect that the foggies should turn off when the headlights do?
  • hcm32hcm32 Posts: 2
    Join other Altima enthusiasts in Edmunds.com Nissan Altima Owners Club!
  • I just bought an Altima 3.5 SE and it has 1200 miles. The fuel pump assembly needs to be replaced. Is this an item covered under warranty and have others experienced the same problem

    thanks smiley10
  • I recently bought a 3.5SE and now the fuel pump assembly needs to be replaced (it has 1200 miles). Has anyone else experienced this problem?

    smiley10
  • gf6gf6 Posts: 3
    What problem are you having? My wife's new Altima (1700 miles) has a bad fuel pump assembly too. The fuel tube is disconnected from the openning near the fuel door and we couldn't put the cap on. We are going to take it to the dealer. It just happened.

    Did anything unusual happen that caused your problem?

    Gang
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