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Nissan Altima Maintenance and Repair

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  • rmarma Posts: 3
    I have the same AC problem with my 2005 Altima - only 10 days old. Any resolution?
  • rmarma Posts: 3
    My 2005 Altima AC has a problem also. If AC is on, and I turn on Recirculate and turn both off, the AC keeps blowing cold air, and there is no way to turn it off, unless I turn off the engine! Any resolution?

    Thanks.
  • I just took my car in for service. They claim that it is the new design of the a/c to prevent the windows from fogging when using the defroster. Service manager said when using the ac turn the controls to max ac. If I want to turn off a/c use the controls to direct air to your face or face and feet. This seems like an extremely poor design. Let me know if anyone has been able to get the service station to fix this.
  • corvettecorvette United StatesPosts: 4,005
    This doesn't make much sense. I know on the 2002-04 models, and countless other cars, the A/C turns on when you turn the knob to Defrost (without illuminating the A/C light), but turns off when you take it out of Defrost. Turning the controls to max a/c all the time you need a/c is not safe because max a/c puts the HVAC system in recirculation mode - little or no fresh air is being pulled in.
  • My 05 Altima's clock did not work and now they're ordering a new radio. The service writer had to contact Panasonic to order a new Bose radio. It took the service writer and the Nissan factory rep about four hours to find the right source.

    I took my car to Academy Nissan in Colorado Springs. Hope that helps.
  • Is anybody having a problem programing they're home link? My garage door openner has rolling codes and nothing seems to work...any suggestions?
  • gsemikegsemike Long Island, NYPosts: 1,743
    I wrote a couple of days ago about the squeaking noise coming from my 2.5S. I dropped it off this morning, and the service "advisor" tried to steer me to a new serpentine belt before he even looked at the car.

    Since the belt is one of the few things out of warranty, I find his diagnosis dubious. We'll see what they say when they call me back, but at 16,000 miles, that belt should have plenty of life and I certainly don't intend to replace it every year and a half.

    This has me a little perturbed to say the least. He of course tried to pitch an unnecesary 15,000 mile service for $299. Why should I pay them that much to look at the brake pads and hoses? It's a complete rip-off. If I wanted to put that much money into a car every 15,000 miles, I could have bought a used car with 100,000 miles for around $5k.
  • rmarma Posts: 3
    Thanks; I'll try that and see what happens. I beleive the manual also says something along those lines... This is indeed a very poor design.
  • corvettecorvette United StatesPosts: 4,005
    If the serp belt wore out that quick, there's something misaligned there to cause it to wear out so quickly. They can be cracked from age and still not making a peep, it's often the tensioner. If they are as shady as they sound, they will want you to pay for the new belt and installation (which may not fix the problem) before they will even consider the tensioner. Is there another dealer in your area?
  • I had a whistling sound coming from the rt front door as well. The dealer said the technition basically tightend up the door and the whistle is gone.
  • gsemikegsemike Long Island, NYPosts: 1,743
    I got stuck paying for the belt. I still find their diagnosis dubious, but once it was in the shop, it would have cost me $45 to get it out, so I paid it. I'm not happy about it, but don't feel that I had a choice.
  • OK. Here is the final resolution.

    Because the tech guys could hear the noise, but could not figure out what the problem was, and the fact that the car had not formally been titled, the Sales manager went ahead and got us a new car. We picked it up yesterday, and after a thorough test drive, bought it. It is exactly the same as our old car, except they will have to add the spoiler at a later date. He had offered me any car out of his inventory that was the equivalent. Of course, we wanted to make sure that we received the same color, so he had to do a dealer trade. With that, we had to pay $150 for the trade. A small price to pay to have a new car and have one that does not have any trouble...so far

    One thing that I did was hit them from all sides. I put friendly pressure on the service guys. I called corporate. I wrote a nice letter of fact to the sales manager. He could have left us out to dry with the service group, but I reminded him over and over that he promised 100% satisfaction and we ultimately received it.

    I hope that my wife can finally grow into the car. She is so used to a Honda that she is having trouble with the "normal" engine noise of the Altima. It is growing on her, and soon she will be converted.

    Thanks for everyone's input!
  • "Check Engine" light came "ON" this Sat. I drove it to the dealer, but it was near closing hour. Made an appointment on Monday - and today my Altima was in.

    Two codes:
    P0325 for "Knock sensor" fault and
    P1336 for "Crank position sensor" fault.

    I asked them to clear the codes and took it to my mechanic. He suggested to replace only the "Crank position sensor" because the "Knock sensor" only senses of any "ping" or "knocking" sounds coming from the engine.

    Along with that - he replaced spark plugs, distrib.cap, took apart and cleaned EGR, air filter. Paid $380 (including dealers computer scan).

    And happily got in the car to take it home. And "yes" on the first intersection - the "Check Engine" light CAME "ON" again !!

    Went back to the mechanic - he suggested to put "Octane Booster" and "Fuel Injection Cleaner" and drive it for 3-4 days - the light should go "OFF".

    Should I believe him ?

    And what could be the problem if not that ?

    Thank you
  • corvettecorvette United StatesPosts: 4,005
    I would put in the fuel injector cleaner (like a can of Techron) and fill it up at a quality gas station. Couldn't hurt, might help... Good luck!
  • Hi, Corvette

    Yes, as of yesterday I poured bottle of "Octane Booster" + " STP "Fuel Injection Cleaner" + filled her up with 91 octane gasoline.

    Also, instructed my wife to drive with "OD" (Overdrive) on "OFF" position, so the car would only run on 3 gears (it's an automatic transmission).

    Hate to say, but I might be looking at Toyota Camry (1999-2000) or Honda Civic 2001 (we'vd had Honda Civic before - and were pleased with it)>

    After all this Altima only has 86,000 on it.
  • corvettecorvette United StatesPosts: 4,005
    Hate to say, but I might be looking at Toyota Camry (1999-2000) or Honda Civic 2001...

    ===========================================

    You won't be hurting my feelings! Good luck, whatever you decide.
  • I was unable to start my car after just getting out of if. I had a similar problem a few times before and a tow truck driver told me as a safety device I had to put my car in neutral to start it. This did not work this time. I had the car jumped and it got me home. After turning the car off it did not start again. I took the car to the dealer and had to actually get it jumped to get it through the service bay. No warning signs make me wonder if it was the battery. Why the battery light did not show up? The battery did not have any corrosion on it. Nothing in the car was working. Immediately the clock and the tripometer all changed.

    The tech checked and said it was the battery. $165 later it appears to be back to normal.

    This is my first Nissan and am quite surprised and troubled of this problem.

    Any similar problems????
  • corvettecorvette United StatesPosts: 4,005
    If the test came out okay, there is probably nothing going on (like the alternator producing too much current) which would kill the battery. This doesn't seem to be a common problem with the Altima specifically. Car batteries in general are very hit-and-miss.
  • 1997 Altima, I will change the "Knock" sensor - but in case if the "Check Engine" light comes back "ON" - do you know what the problem might be ?

    My mechanic told me my chain is O.K. - so what could trigger the "Knock" sensor ?

    Thank you
  • corvettecorvette United StatesPosts: 4,005
    Did you ever get the codes read again after installing the crank position sensor?

    The knock sensor is what prevents the engine from pinging or detonating if the octane of the fuel is too low. It retards the timing of the engine to prevent knock, so it's possible that low octane fuel or a gummed up fuel system could cause some sort of fault there, hence the recommendation to try some fuel system cleaner and octane booster. Bad wiring to the sensor could also cause a CEL. Other than that, I don't know... Good luck!
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