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Nissan Altima Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • What did the dealer actually do to resolve your vibration problem that other dealerships over looked? I am looking at buying a 2006 Altima 3.5 SE and if i have this problem would love to knowhow to have it fixed?
  • Still lookin for answers. Any thoughts?
  • I HAD THE SAME PROBLEM LIKE 1 MONTH AGO. THE PROBLEM IS THAT THE KEY IS WORN OUT IT DOESNT HAVE ANY TEETH.YOU HAVE TO GO TO THE DEALER OR A LOCKSMITH AND THEY WILL GIVE YOU A KEY FOR ABOUT 20 TO 30 DOLLARS.
  • Karen_CMKaren_CM Posts: 5,018
    You might also want to pose your question in Transmission Traumas.

    Community Manager If you have any questions or concerns about the Forums, send me an email, karen@edmunds.com, or click on my screen name to send a personal message.

  • I have an 05 SE with 22K miles on it. The front brakes have been squealing for some time. The service manager at my local dealership claims it is because they no longer use asbestos brake pads. Has anyone else had this problem? :(
  • haefrhaefr Posts: 600
    The service manager or the service writer? In any event, the guy's a moron. While it's true asbestos is no longer used in brake pads, squealing has been a part of disc brake life for over fifty years. The squeal is due to high frequency vibration on partial application. The good news is that there are several products available which alleviate the squeal. But, the stuff requires disassembly of the pads from the caliper, cleaning, and application of a viscous goo to the BACKPLATE of the pads. The stuff sets up as a semi-solid in a few minutes after which the pads are reassembled to the caliper. The partial adhesion between the goo and the caliper piston dampens the high frequency vibrations, yet allows easy removal at pad replacement time. But, before you go to that trouble on 22K mile pads, you should check the pad thickness. If you're close to the limit of acceptable thickness, a rivited-on metal tang will contact the rotor when you apply the brakes and squeal like the dickens as a warning that pad thickness is marginal. The scraping of the tang on the rotor is harmless since it does not contact the area that the pads themselves contact. By warning ahead of actual pad failure, it'll save the rotor from real damage from the metal pad backplate coming in hard contact with the rotor. I'd suggest you drive your car to WalMart and have the situation evaluated. If you do need new pads as I suspect, you'll get a better price with longer lasting pads than OEM. If you're handy mechanically, it's not a hard job to replace disc brake pads. A Chilton or Haynes manual will detail the general procedures involved. Most aftermarket pads come with plastic packets of the goo I described above, too.

    (I do NOT work for WalMart. But, I've found their auto service departments to be generally reasonably priced, honest, and competent.)
  • hi all im a newby here. i have a 99 altima that has 87,000 miles on it. the problems is it has an oil leak near the oil filter. its not at the filter or the sensor as i have checked both.is this a normal thing for nissans? and where would it be leaking from. any ideas would be appreciated
  • gsemikegsemike Long Island, NYPosts: 1,771
    Check out ebay for this sort of stuff. You can find practically anything and save a bundle. I bought a used taillight for my 03 for $20 including delivery. Nissan wamnted $160 for a new one.
  • gsemikegsemike Long Island, NYPosts: 1,771
    My car is an 03 Altima w 31k on it. The 3/36 bumper to bumper is coming to a close and then it has 4/50 powertrain warranty. Can I still go back to Nissan and buy the extended warranty? Would I go to the dealer or Nissan customer service?

    Also, with the Nissan extended warranty, am I beholden to Nissan for service? I've never been impressed with there service department. Nothing is ever a defect with them. They wanted to charge me $40 to inflate the tires because it was pulling when the car was a week old!
  • haefrhaefr Posts: 600
    Might I suggest you dig out the warranty supplement booklet that came packed in the vinyl portfolio with your owner's manual and other material when you took delivery of your car? There'll be a toll-free 800 phone number to contact Nissan directly. They'll be glad to address all your questions. As with any car make, there are acceptable dealership service departments and there are not-so-acceptable dealership service departments. Try a different one; you're under no obligation to have warranty work performed by your selling dealership's service department. (When I've had occasional differences of opinion with a service writer, and I'm reasonably sure my position is correct, I don't hesitate to go progressively up the food chain - service manager, general manager, dealership owner, auto company. It's the squeaky wheel that gets the grease.)

    (If you do subsequently purchase an extended warranty, make sure that it's provided by Nissan, and not from an independent "extended service contract" provider. Too many of these outfits routinely go belly-up as part of their business plan, only to re-organize under a different name and resume issuing contracts. That clever little trick leaves existing policy holders out in the cold (and the money they originally paid in good faith) when/if they need to file a claim later on.)
  • winsanwinsan Posts: 35
    I'm no mechanic. I have 03 Altima. When I asked a friend of mine, a mechanic, he said that the squeal was typical Nissan, as long as it squealed only when you applied the brake. If it squealed anytime the car ran, then you'd need to check the brake pad. Anyway, you'd better check the pad thickness (minimum 2mm front, 1.5mm rear).
  • gsemikegsemike Long Island, NYPosts: 1,771
    I disagree. I have an 03 as well. The first set of pads never squeaked. When I had them replaced at 22k, the new pads did squeak. After I took it back to the shop, the were able to make the squeaking go away. I think they probabvly put that "stuff" on the back of the pads.
  • come on anybody ? no one has an idea?
  • Each winter my 2003 Nissan Altima does not start when the temperature dips to 20 degrees. The mechanic said I need to replace the fuel pump relay but Nissan does not sell this single part. I have to buy the entire fuel pump which will run me over $500. Anyone else run into this problem? Any suggestions?
  • looking to soften ride of 2005 altima. any suggestions? If possible include approximate cost.
  • haefrhaefr Posts: 600
    Does that $500.00 include labor? Through a Nissan dealership service department? If that's the price of the fuel pump assembly, alone, through a Nissan dealer's parts department, I find it difficult to believe you couldn't source an aftermarket copy through Pep Boys, Autozone, Kragen, Advance Auto, etc. for less and have an independent mechanic install it for you. Most (all?) electric fuel pumps are mounted in the fuel tank with access through a port in the trunk floor paneling. (You might also check the aftermarket sources for availability of the relay component before you accept the notion the entire fuel pump has to be replaced. At the very worst, at least you'd know whether the dealership told you the truth.)
  • haefrhaefr Posts: 600
    There are cheaper alternatives, but I've found Monroe-matic struts and shocks have the best compromise between predictable, safe handling characteristics, quick undulation control after a dip, and compliant ride quality over small, sharp road irregularities. I have no idea about precise cost, but figure about $45.00 plus or minus, each. Labor for the entire job may run another $175.00 or more.
  • winsanwinsan Posts: 35
    (This may be a stupid question, though) Do you live in northern states? There is a recall for 03 altima owners living in northern states where the fuel filter may accumulate water and hence clog the fuel line in cold weather.
  • Not a stupid question at all - yes, I live in New York and I had the screen put on the filter that fixed the problem. Was done by the Nissan service department when the recall came out in 2003.
  • 95alt95alt Posts: 1
    The car will start to buck when im going 40-50 mph and when i give it more gas nothing happens. The RPMs go down to 0 and i cant rev it at all. It normally stalls out after this and wont start for about 5 mins. Havent had much trouble at idle, always dies when im driving.

    I just had the O2 sensors and Cat replaced, along with fuel filter, air filter, spark plugs, cap and rotor and the plug wires are only 3 mnths old. All this trouble started about a week ago when the Check Engine Light came on and i have gotten the knock sensor, cam shaft positioning sensor, O2 sensor, and fuel system codes. The knock sensor seems to be the reocurring one but from what i have read it shouldnt be affecting driveability, any help, thanks.
  • edvkedvk Posts: 8
    Have you tried adding some fuel line anti-freeze? If there is water in the line somewhere, this may identify the problem.
  • Did you ever have a chance to figure out what was worng with your struts? I purchased a 2003 Altima one year ago with 36k miles on it. At 37.5k miles the strut was replaced. I now am on 58k miles and on my third strut... none of which the dealer will cover. I have ssen the bulletin, but have yet to hear form Nissan... any input would be greatly appreciated... :lemon:
  • I cannot find my manual. This seems to be the best forum for possible answer. Dealership maintenance people are saying it is time for brake job. I have 52 k miles - mixed condition driving (interstate and stop and go) in Fla. When do you think I should need to replace brakes - just checking if they are in the ballpark. Do you think front or back or both? Thanks.
  • that year altima had problems with the distributor leaking oil on to the cam sensor which is in the distributor. remove the cap and rotor.and you will see a plastic cover.remove it and you will see the cam sensor if it has oil on it. the seal is leaking and you will have to replace the distributor
  • haefrhaefr Posts: 600
    There's no hard and fast time/mileage rule about when brake pads have to be replaced. It all depends on the type of driving the car is subject to. In some cases, the pads are worn dangerously thin in as few as 10,000 miles - mountainous terrain or drivers who "ride" the brake pedal, for instance. In other cases, some people get 60,000 miles and more if most of their driving is over long expanses of open country in which brake application is minimal in relation to miles covered. The only factor that's meaninful about the necessity for brake pad replacement is how thin has the pad material become? The only way to determine that is by visual inspection. No reflection on your take-yer-money-ship's integrity, but it might be prudent to get a second opinion from a brake shop or trusted mechanic. As to whether the rear pads will have to be replaced, usually, the rear pads will not have to be done with every front pad replacement, since the front pads do the lion's share of braking. As a side note, though, one make, recent Honda Accords, use such a small area rear pad that it's common to find that the rear pads require replacement before the front pads do. Go figure... But, at 52,000 miles on your car (presuming that's the mileage count on the current brake pads), I'd want to see the actual pad thickness rather than assume anything. At about 1/8" thickness anywhere along the pad's area, it's definitely time. Always replace pads on both wheels of the same axle - regardless how the pads on the other wheel appear. That for safety since the frictional characteristics of different production runs may be slightly different which could result in pulling to one side during braking. One final thought: if you have engine trouble, you wait at the side of the road for help. If you have brake trouble, you may arrive early to your own funeral.
  • aingeainge Posts: 4
    I had the same problem with my 2000 Altima. It always popped back on after awhile, but it was a continuing problem. I had taken it to the dealer, but of course, they couldn't duplicate the problem. Finally, one day as I was near the dealership, the problem re-occurred. I pulled into the service area, and showed them. They replaced my "combination meter assembly" I believe it was called. It took them two times to get it right, as the speedo wasn't calibrated corectly the first time. I've had no problems since my second visit to have them fix the new part. Good luck trying to get them to replace or fix anything though, unless you can show them exactly what is happening as it is occurring. ALl these "Master Technicians" aren't very masterful unless there is a computer code telling them what to do, and the speedo problem never shows a code.
  • Max and anyone else that has this problem,

    I had the same problem with the horrible radio reception on my radio, and after complaining all the way to the top of the dealership, they ordered me another radio. Since then my reception is TONS BETTER.
    Also, I had the problem with the car cranking too long before it would start, this was after it was driven then sat for an hour or so. They could not figure it out 3 different times at the dealership, and gave me the "unable to duplicate" response. So I recorded the problem when it was happening with my cellphone and played it for the head honcho at the service dept, and they replaced my fuel pump. I am happy to report it is no longer happening!
    My advice to everyone is, PERSISTENCE PAYS OFF!
    I hope this helps someone.
  • My 2005 Altima 2.5L also had alot of radio static. Nissan dealer did not want to do anything about it, but after complaining repeatedly and taking in bulletins from this website showing the problem and how to fix it. They ordered me another radio, and I am happy to report the static is gone! Just keep complaining and if you get no help, ask for the guys boss, and continue to do so till they fix problem.
  • I have a 2003 altima S and had problems like you discribe. My car will stall out (not all the time) at speeds of 25 or under and hesitates (tach drops) at higher speeds as if it wants to stall out. The service engine light came on and then out. Took it to the deal and for $85 they tell me nothing is wrong with the car.
  • I have an almost identical problem...I had my nissan altima 2002 recalled for the headlamps, and now there is no heat from my ac...
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