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Nissan Altima Maintenance and Repair

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  • I'm having the exact same problem with my Altima. It is a 2001 with 107K miles. My mechanic suspected the distributor and has replaced it. Problem persists. He is stumped. Have you had any luck with your car? At lease I was able to reproduce the problem with my mechanic. He believes we have a real problem but can't isolate it. Please let me know if you've found a solution.

    Thanks
  • roughneckroughneck Posts: 21
    codered2

    I posted earlier the same exact things as yours. Except for the smoke. Mine is a 2.5 auto though. My guess is maybe your piston rings haven't set yet. Check your oil level. But I am just guessing. As far as the vibration I think it might be the electric fans kicking on. Except for the smoke I wouldn't lose any sleep over the other things.
  • albertjralbertjr Posts: 1
    Hello.
    I worked for Goodyear for many years and also own a 95 nissan altima. I've had this car since new, I had the same problem with my nissan. The problem is the ignition coil, when the coil gets hot it makes the veh shoot down, yes it will restart but only if the ignition coil cools off. You must replace the ignition coil.
  • catwoman1catwoman1 Posts: 1
    I had a nissan altima 1997 and I was having the same problem. For me it was the air flow meter. My car would stay in idle and the rpm would stay between 1 and 2. Is this happening to you? By the way the diagnostics will not pick up the problem, they found mine by running it on the emissions machine.
  • shekharshekhar Posts: 23
    The car AC is DEAD. I bought "R134a PLUS System" from al-Mart with an intention to add 134a gas to the AC unit. With the AC ON and car engine running, I connected the pressure guage at the "low pressure end" hook up -to get the initial pressure reading. I was expecting to find low reading, from the empty system. Instead - the pressure reading was exceedingly high (more than 100PSI, which is the limit of the gauge). I am wondering what could be the cause of such a problem. I do not have the means to check pressure at the "H" end. Is there a remedy? Also, what is "AC tune up" service ? Any help will be appreciated.
    Thanks
    Shekhar
  • shekharshekhar Posts: 23
    Mine idles at 700-800 rpm when AC is off. With AC ON idle speed goes to 1000-1200 rpm. Other than a slight shudder at the begining (after pressing tthe AC button to ON) there is no discernable noise. All the belts move normally without any screeching!
    Did you get your car fixed? How much did it cost? Thanks.
  • Greetings! I have a 1995 Altima that I've had no problems with, with one exception: In cold weather, when I start my engine it will die unless I hold my foot down on the gas for 15-30 seconds, depending on how cold it is. During this time frame, the engine surges so badly that the whole car shakes and I fear for my engine. It then smooths out and has no further issues. What could this possibly be? Injectors? Ran some injector cleaner thru it, which seemed to help very very slightly for a short time.
  • I HAVE THE SAME PROBLEM WITH MY CAR .
    CODE 0440 EVAP EMISSION CONTROL LEAK. CAN YOU TELL ME WHAT KIND OF PART DID YOU BOUGHT FOR THAT ?
  • vladpvladp Posts: 2
    Hi to you all. I drive a '05 Altima and in the last couple of months I detected a couple of problems. First, at gear shifting from 1'st to 2'nd (green light start) the transition is very rough. Is this particular to my car or has anybody else encountered it? What could be the problem?
    As for the interior comfort, lately the central piece of plastic imitating metal housing the air conditioning controls has started crepitating whenever the car slows down or accelerates, makes a turn or goes over a bump. I was thinking it could be the differential dilatation coefficient or simply poor assembly; does anybody have any idea if that could be mended (and, if so, covered by warranty)?
    Thanks a lot.

    Vlad
  • vladpvladp Posts: 2
    Hi, Zapczyn!
    I'm sorry to say, but I have the same problem in my 2.5S. I had a visible vibration in the steering wheel at around 55mph, but I thought it was from a light crash about 3 months ago. I went for the semi-annual maintenance and they confirmed a tire imbalance and "corrected" it. One day later, the vibration is there again, but at least not visible. Don't know what the problem is, but, to be honest, after reading the posts on this forum, I'm not going back to the dealer, because I already know the outcome. Sorry I can't encourage you more.
    Vlad
  • roar1roar1 Posts: 193
    I don't care HOW many times you have had your tires balanced or where! Your tires need to be balanced properly. DO NOT GO TO A CAR DEALER !!!!!!!!!!!!!!

    I suggest that you find a tire shop that has the Hunter GSP 9700 balancer.
    This machine measures road force and a lot of other goodies ( of course you need a knowledgeable technician operating it )

    Trust me . I've been down this road many times. This machine, along with a good tech., will solve your problems. You probably have a slightly out of round tire/tires,
    and only the Hunter 9700 will tell you this. Call around and find a shop that has one of these machines. Since your car is new, you can use the machine print-out to take to your car dealer and get a new tire , if needed. But remember, don't have the car dealer mount and balance it. Go to the tire dealer.
  • aingeainge Posts: 4
    I got my Altima back after three days in the shop. They were never able to dupicate the problems. Charged me $210 for diagnostics, because they did put time in on the car. They said they drove it to lunch, one tech drove it home twice with the computer hooked up to it... Nothing.
    I get the car back, and guess what. That very day, I'm driving it and the gauges all go dead again. I called the service advisor I had been working with and told him I'm coming back to show him. They see the problem and get to work on it. They say I have a short in my instrument panel cluster making my gauges go haywire, but can't say if that would contribute to the dying issues.
    They've had the car for two full weeks because the part was on back order, but I'm supposed to pick it up tonight.
    The dealership was kind enough to give me a loaner vehicle for the two weeks while my car was in service. (I had purchased an extended warranty when I bought the car and that was one of the provisions) As icing on the cake though, while I was driving the car I was involved in a parking lot incident that damaged the back bumper cover. Very minor, but the cover will have to be replaced, and guess who gets to pay for that... :cry:
  • :mad:
    HAVE THE SAME PROBLEM WITH MY CAR .
    CODE 0440 EVAP EMISSION CONTROL LEAK. CAN ENYBODY TELL ME WHAT'S GOING ON WITH THAT ENGINE LIGHT?
  • :mad:
    HAVE THE SAME PROBLEM WITH MY CAR .
    CODE 0440 EVAP EMISSION CONTROL LEAK. CAN ANYBODY TELL ME WHAT'S GOING ON WITH THAT ENGINE LIGHT?
  • When the knock sensor is bad, what type of symptoms does your car have? I was told that I needed to replace my knock sensor, is this an easy fix and where is the knock sensor located?
  • Hi Brian & Greg,

    I have a 2003 Altima 2.5 SL and I just had my front left strut replaced for the second time. I have less than 24K miles on it and it makes me doubt the reliability of the car. What also concerned me was the dealership started off by telling me it may not be covered under the warranty...what B.S. Fortunately, they changed their mind.

    I have three year lease up in July 06 and was considering buying it, but now I am not so sure.

    This was my first new car. All of my previous used cars never had a strut problem except for a twenty year old cutlass with 270K miles.

    My advice to anyone out there with an Altima is to get the struts replaced or at least checked before your warranty expires.
    :sick:
  • shekharshekhar Posts: 23
    Paid $20 to "All Tune & Lube" joint for checkup. They checked the fuses, relays (all was OK) and finallyadvised me to go for a $60 removal & refill process. By that time the technician found one electrical connection to be broken, this is for the wire that goes into the compressor. They chartged me additional $25 for "splicing the wire" :mad: but that solved the problem. They wanted to sell me 1 lb of freon for $40 which I politely declined.
    All in all, it pays to check the wiring "beyond the fuses and relays"
    Lesson Learnt!
  • jft26jft26 Posts: 35
    Does anyone know the location of the Flasher Relay for this vehicle? Thanks.
  • Any of you guys know where I can get some cheap airbags for my 98 alti. The dealership is saying they haved to order them at a cost of about $1000.00. Even if they are used but in excellent condition.
  • financfinanc Posts: 6
    Codered2,

    I noticed the same thing last week and I have an appointment with the local Nissan service this week to have this problem checked. How did they treat the case? Did they take it as a problem or did they claim it was a design feature that we should learn to live with?

    Thanks for any response.
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