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Nissan Altima Maintenance and Repair



  • empiempi Posts: 6
    Hi Swanny.

    Iam thinking of buying a 2.5 SL and after reading all of these problems, I am having second thoughts. I am really discouraged with cars in general. I just sold my 2004 VW New Beetle Convertible Tubo GLS withb7600 miles on it because it gets horrible gas mileage. Averaging 14 to 16 mpg all city driving. I also read about a lot of problems with the Beetles too. Does anyone make a decent car anymore.

    I thought the Japanese made such reliable cars. Now I am wondering.

    I used to drive Mercedes cars, but I am now looking for something less showy and more economical as I approach retirement. What kind of gas mileage do you get with the 3.5 (I presume it is a 6 cyl). I am looking at the 4 cyls as I don't need the extra power and friends who have the 2.5 absolutely love it and have had nothing but good look.

    Looking forward to hearing from you or anyone with any suggestions.
  • The car you might want to look at is a Honda Accord.
  • Is there any way to return the car based on this manufacturing defect? I have a 60 miles commute and I have been burning more gas due to the fact that the A/C is always on when I switch on inside air circulation button on or defrost on and then turn it off.
    It sucks !
  • karpokarpo Posts: 1
    I am the owner of a 2000 Nissan Altima GXE. It has 56,000 miles on it. I had a tune up 3 weeks ago. Last Wednesday, while stuck in traffic for an hour, I was moving but mostly stop and go. I noticed that after 35 minutes the odometer, speedometer, and temp gauge all went. The odometer went blank on the digital screen, the mph gauge went to zero, the rpm gauge went flat, and my temp gauge was saying my engine was cold when I knew that moments before all gauges were reading normal. After about 10 to 15 minutes, the car corrected itself and all gauges went back to normal. This happened again on Friday night and a third time this evening. If i turn off the car and turn it back on the problem corrects itself. I should also mention that the car runs just fine and everything seems normal except for the weird gauge thing. Could this be electrical? Maybe a short or fuse? Suggestions?
  • I just got a 2006 and the radio static is terrible. HELP would be greatly appreciated. The dealership doesn't "hear" any problems compared to the other cars on the lot blah , blah blah
  • Hi all. Just wondered if anyone else had encountered this. My boyfriend has a 2003 Nissan Altima with under 60,000 miles on it. Recently, it stopped going in reverse. Everything else about the car worked fine. We took it to a few shops who sort of shrugged and sent us off to the dealer. The dealer now says the car needs a new transmission! It's a 2-year-old car with less than 60,000 miles on it, which should be nothing for Nissan. Any chance the problem could be something else (and something cheaper to fix!)? The warranty on the car (he bought it used) has ended, but I feel like Nissan ought to step up and help pay for something like this. They're supposed to be so reliable, but this experience is leaving a bad taste in our mouths. :sick:
    I am having the same problem with my 2000 Altima. Have you found a repair for it yet? If so, can you please let me know what it was.

    Thank you.
  • The warranty for powertrain is 60month 60k miles.

    I am having same problem...but when i took it to the dealer they could not replicate it.
  • I am having the same problem with my 1996. My daughter was driving it the other day and it started to sputter, then died. Thought it was out of gas, put some in, wouldn't start. Thought tune-up, so replaced plugs, distributor cap, rotar, nothing. It almost sounds, sometimes, like it wants to start, but doesn't. ideas????
  • How did you fix it? New sensor? Where did you get it?
  • So when you took it to the dealer, it went in reverse for them but it won't for you? That happened the first time we dropped the Altima off at the mechanic -- they said it was fine. And it worked fine for a few more days, but then it stopped going in reverse again. It revs like it's in neutral, but won't move. So we dropped it off at the dealer over the weekend. They confirmed it wouldn't go in reverse but wanted to charge $3,300 for a new transmission. The warranty has ended because it was used when my boyfriend bought it. Ironically, had he bought it new, Nissan would have to replace the transmission because it'd be under warranty. So now, we're just sort of in disbelief that a Nissan's transmission would need to be replaced after less than 60,000 miles!
  • ewe2ewe2 Posts: 20
    I've complained about the same thing. Seems Nissan did this because this car has a tendency to fog the windows and they were receiving complaints about the fogging. I guess it was too hard for people to push the ac button when needed themselves.

    I'm also finding out that the fogging problem might be due to the cabin filter. So I am going to take the filter out and see of the fogging problem disappears.

    Honda will be a replacement for this piece of crap.

    Nissan replaced the Stanza with the Altima and it's never been as good. It might be faster but that is all it has got going for it.

  • That's funny, I have a 2002 3.5 with just about the same amount of miles. Yes I'm having the same oil problem. A mechanic said the same leak. He did mention that it could be the piston rings; I'm not a mechanic but I know that's an expensive fix. Between oil changes I'm accustom to dropping a quart of fresh oil into the engine, seems to work. The Fall weather seems to help. Question: is your Altima making "marble-like" noises around 2500 RPM? Could it be that the chain belt needs tightening?
  • Just as an update: it turned out to be a bad drive shaft pulley. It was not allowing the serpentine belt, and the various other belts, to move as they should. As a result the car wasn't shifting out of 1st or second gear so thats why i had the problem accelerating and the poor gas mileage. It cost about $150.00 to repair - not bad.
  • I had the same problem. Misfire on 4 code. Changed injector,distcap,spark plug wires,checked compression. Finally looked to see if the coil was jumping spark. Took two screws off inside stater cover. Found tempered disk had been bent and lost a couple little lines in the sensor spokes I guess you call them. Any way I went to the auto salvage yesterday and bought a distributor. Put it in last night and it smoothed out and the light went out after about half a mile. So far so good!!
  • mrk94mrk94 Posts: 3
    My '94 started making a clicking noise behind the dash a few months ago whenever I used the AC or just ventilation, but I could play with the selection buttons and in time would usually find a way to stop the noise. Somewhere along the way the fan's infamous 1st speed resistor went out, leaving me speeds 2,3, and 4...I don't recall if it was before or after the noise appeared. Now, the clicking is there whenever I have any button other than Bi-Level selected...EVEN WITHOUT THE FAN BEING TURNED ON! Recirc. doesn't make any difference. The output is still directed according to the button selected, so I'm suspecting something at the air mix door since Bi-Level keeps it at sort of a "middle" position. Anyone ever diagnosed this? A worn part that keeps ratcheting when anything other than Bi-Level is on? Probably have to take half the dash apart!!! Thanks for any help!!!
  • I have had varied problems with my 2005 SE 3.5 (auto) ever since I bought it in July. The main problem I have is hearing a low rumble and vibration when traveling at certain speeds. When cruising at a constant speed of about 32, 40, and 50-something is when it happens the most. I get this vibration that can be felt through the gas pedal, steering wheel, etc... but is barely audible. It is a very low pitched rumble. It doesn't happen at all speeds, in fact only at very specific ones. I know this is not normal... the one I test drove didn't do this at all.

    It also seems to shift a hard from 1 - 2 and 2 - 3 when under light - moderate acceleration. Therefore, I have been thinking this is all transmission related... but the dealership refuses to acknowledge any of this is a problem.

    Any ideas, suggestions or similar experiences with an '05 out there????
  • haefrhaefr Posts: 600
    I have no experience with the Altima, but from general experience I believe it's safe to say without fear of contradiction that when the selling dealer refuses to acknowledge an owner complaint, it's either time to request the service manager take a demo ride with you, try a different dealership's service department, or contact the manufacturer and request a zone rep meet to take a test drive with you. If he agrees with your complaint, then what HE says to the service manager, GOES. Unfortunately, not all new car dealerships take their responsibilities regarding warranty work as seriously as they should.* Fortunately, owners usually have choice within reasonable driving distance.

    *There was a time when auto manufacturers paid the dealership's regionally-adjusted normal shop hourly labor rate without question. The labor hourly rate would then be multiplied by the flat rate manual's listed repair time in hours for the final warranty claim compensation to be paid by the manufacturer for a warrantable repair. According to an article in "Consumer Reports" several years ago, that's no longer always true. Some manufacturers have scaled back to an arbitrary national hourly. In respsonse, some dealers who feel they're adversely affected by the manufacturer's attempts to control warranty costs (and who have a thriving service department adding to the dealership's bottom line with out of warranty repairs for which the dealer can and does charge full bore to the owners) have become a bit stingy about the work they'll accept on warranty repairs by solemnly claiming they can't duplicate or hear the problem the customer complains about. After all, they reason, why should they accept a pittance and tie up a service bay when there's some guy with cash or CC on hand who'll pay their regular shop rates just to be on the road again. Works out to, "Heads we win, tales you lose." for people needing warranty work since they can count on many warranted owners not pressing ahead to the next level.
  • edvkedvk Posts: 8
    All I can say is Welcome to the club, and good luck getting them to fix it.

    I have had the same problems, but they appear to going away (or I am just getting use to it).

    There was a bulletin posted that the heat shield on the catalytic converted may come loose, causing vibration during acceleration. Check out, under the 2005 Altima's

    I am looking forward to switching to winter tires, because I thing the Turanza's are a big part of the problem.

    Keep us posted if you resolve anything.
  • I have seen air bag light reset procedures for various years of the Altima where you turn ignition on and press the drivers door switch at least 5 times in 7 seconds. Is this procedure applicable to a 1999 year model of the Altima?
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