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Nissan Altima Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • What did the dealer actually do to resolve your vibration problem that other dealerships over looked? I am looking at buying a 2006 Altima 3.5 SE and if i have this problem would love to knowhow to have it fixed?
  • Still lookin for answers. Any thoughts?
  • I HAD THE SAME PROBLEM LIKE 1 MONTH AGO. THE PROBLEM IS THAT THE KEY IS WORN OUT IT DOESNT HAVE ANY TEETH.YOU HAVE TO GO TO THE DEALER OR A LOCKSMITH AND THEY WILL GIVE YOU A KEY FOR ABOUT 20 TO 30 DOLLARS.
  • You might also want to pose your question in Transmission Traumas.

    Karen-Edmunds Community Manager

  • I have an 05 SE with 22K miles on it. The front brakes have been squealing for some time. The service manager at my local dealership claims it is because they no longer use asbestos brake pads. Has anyone else had this problem? :(
  • haefrhaefr Posts: 600
    The service manager or the service writer? In any event, the guy's a moron. While it's true asbestos is no longer used in brake pads, squealing has been a part of disc brake life for over fifty years. The squeal is due to high frequency vibration on partial application. The good news is that there are several products available which alleviate the squeal. But, the stuff requires disassembly of the pads from the caliper, cleaning, and application of a viscous goo to the BACKPLATE of the pads. The stuff sets up as a semi-solid in a few minutes after which the pads are reassembled to the caliper. The partial adhesion between the goo and the caliper piston dampens the high frequency vibrations, yet allows easy removal at pad replacement time. But, before you go to that trouble on 22K mile pads, you should check the pad thickness. If you're close to the limit of acceptable thickness, a rivited-on metal tang will contact the rotor when you apply the brakes and squeal like the dickens as a warning that pad thickness is marginal. The scraping of the tang on the rotor is harmless since it does not contact the area that the pads themselves contact. By warning ahead of actual pad failure, it'll save the rotor from real damage from the metal pad backplate coming in hard contact with the rotor. I'd suggest you drive your car to WalMart and have the situation evaluated. If you do need new pads as I suspect, you'll get a better price with longer lasting pads than OEM. If you're handy mechanically, it's not a hard job to replace disc brake pads. A Chilton or Haynes manual will detail the general procedures involved. Most aftermarket pads come with plastic packets of the goo I described above, too.

    (I do NOT work for WalMart. But, I've found their auto service departments to be generally reasonably priced, honest, and competent.)
  • hi all im a newby here. i have a 99 altima that has 87,000 miles on it. the problems is it has an oil leak near the oil filter. its not at the filter or the sensor as i have checked both.is this a normal thing for nissans? and where would it be leaking from. any ideas would be appreciated
  • gsemikegsemike Long Island, NYPosts: 1,743
    Check out ebay for this sort of stuff. You can find practically anything and save a bundle. I bought a used taillight for my 03 for $20 including delivery. Nissan wamnted $160 for a new one.
  • gsemikegsemike Long Island, NYPosts: 1,743
    My car is an 03 Altima w 31k on it. The 3/36 bumper to bumper is coming to a close and then it has 4/50 powertrain warranty. Can I still go back to Nissan and buy the extended warranty? Would I go to the dealer or Nissan customer service?

    Also, with the Nissan extended warranty, am I beholden to Nissan for service? I've never been impressed with there service department. Nothing is ever a defect with them. They wanted to charge me $40 to inflate the tires because it was pulling when the car was a week old!
  • haefrhaefr Posts: 600
    Might I suggest you dig out the warranty supplement booklet that came packed in the vinyl portfolio with your owner's manual and other material when you took delivery of your car? There'll be a toll-free 800 phone number to contact Nissan directly. They'll be glad to address all your questions. As with any car make, there are acceptable dealership service departments and there are not-so-acceptable dealership service departments. Try a different one; you're under no obligation to have warranty work performed by your selling dealership's service department. (When I've had occasional differences of opinion with a service writer, and I'm reasonably sure my position is correct, I don't hesitate to go progressively up the food chain - service manager, general manager, dealership owner, auto company. It's the squeaky wheel that gets the grease.)

    (If you do subsequently purchase an extended warranty, make sure that it's provided by Nissan, and not from an independent "extended service contract" provider. Too many of these outfits routinely go belly-up as part of their business plan, only to re-organize under a different name and resume issuing contracts. That clever little trick leaves existing policy holders out in the cold (and the money they originally paid in good faith) when/if they need to file a claim later on.)
  • winsanwinsan Posts: 35
    I'm no mechanic. I have 03 Altima. When I asked a friend of mine, a mechanic, he said that the squeal was typical Nissan, as long as it squealed only when you applied the brake. If it squealed anytime the car ran, then you'd need to check the brake pad. Anyway, you'd better check the pad thickness (minimum 2mm front, 1.5mm rear).
  • gsemikegsemike Long Island, NYPosts: 1,743
    I disagree. I have an 03 as well. The first set of pads never squeaked. When I had them replaced at 22k, the new pads did squeak. After I took it back to the shop, the were able to make the squeaking go away. I think they probabvly put that "stuff" on the back of the pads.
  • come on anybody ? no one has an idea?
  • Each winter my 2003 Nissan Altima does not start when the temperature dips to 20 degrees. The mechanic said I need to replace the fuel pump relay but Nissan does not sell this single part. I have to buy the entire fuel pump which will run me over $500. Anyone else run into this problem? Any suggestions?
  • looking to soften ride of 2005 altima. any suggestions? If possible include approximate cost.
  • haefrhaefr Posts: 600
    Does that $500.00 include labor? Through a Nissan dealership service department? If that's the price of the fuel pump assembly, alone, through a Nissan dealer's parts department, I find it difficult to believe you couldn't source an aftermarket copy through Pep Boys, Autozone, Kragen, Advance Auto, etc. for less and have an independent mechanic install it for you. Most (all?) electric fuel pumps are mounted in the fuel tank with access through a port in the trunk floor paneling. (You might also check the aftermarket sources for availability of the relay component before you accept the notion the entire fuel pump has to be replaced. At the very worst, at least you'd know whether the dealership told you the truth.)
  • haefrhaefr Posts: 600
    There are cheaper alternatives, but I've found Monroe-matic struts and shocks have the best compromise between predictable, safe handling characteristics, quick undulation control after a dip, and compliant ride quality over small, sharp road irregularities. I have no idea about precise cost, but figure about $45.00 plus or minus, each. Labor for the entire job may run another $175.00 or more.
  • winsanwinsan Posts: 35
    (This may be a stupid question, though) Do you live in northern states? There is a recall for 03 altima owners living in northern states where the fuel filter may accumulate water and hence clog the fuel line in cold weather.
  • Not a stupid question at all - yes, I live in New York and I had the screen put on the filter that fixed the problem. Was done by the Nissan service department when the recall came out in 2003.
  • 95alt95alt Posts: 1
    The car will start to buck when im going 40-50 mph and when i give it more gas nothing happens. The RPMs go down to 0 and i cant rev it at all. It normally stalls out after this and wont start for about 5 mins. Havent had much trouble at idle, always dies when im driving.

    I just had the O2 sensors and Cat replaced, along with fuel filter, air filter, spark plugs, cap and rotor and the plug wires are only 3 mnths old. All this trouble started about a week ago when the Check Engine Light came on and i have gotten the knock sensor, cam shaft positioning sensor, O2 sensor, and fuel system codes. The knock sensor seems to be the reocurring one but from what i have read it shouldnt be affecting driveability, any help, thanks.
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