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Nissan Altima Maintenance and Repair

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  • msahmedmsahmed Posts: 13
    I was getting Code P0400 (EGR Flow) and and it seems to be due to bad/broken/disintegrated foam filter inside the Back Pressure Transducer (BPT) Valve.

    Once the material from the disintegrated filter in the BPT valve was cleaned up, the EGR system checked OK (used Actron CP9180 Scanner) , and the MIL (check engine light) indicator has not come back since then.

    Any one has any idea if (where) I can get some foam to cut in the right shape and use that as the filter (I am sure that that driving the car without the filter/foam would cause issues down the road). Local parts stores do carry this item (neither the BPT valve nor the filter/foam). This seems to a dealer item and is sold as the complete assembly ($90 ~$100); the foam/filter is not sold separately. Is this even a good idea to try to buy the foam/filter (to save some good money)?

    Any help/fedback is appreciated.
  • My nissan Altima 2003 has a passenger window that will close but immediately reopen 3 to 4 inches any suggestions
  • whitallwhitall Posts: 187
    Just bought a 2008 w/19000 miles for 15,999 plus tax. It's really clean and nice. They are even fixing a few paint blemished for me. It's not "certified" but I figured that certification wouldn't mean much since it still has 2 years and 17000 miles of warranty left.

    Am I missing something?

    ALSO, I thought the oil looked a little darker than it should for recently being changed. It seemed darker near the tip of the stick too. Is this a sign that the previous owner (lease--now thinking he may have skipped maintenance!) or is it possible that it gets a little darker from sitting around? I may even be wrong. It's not black or anything....

    I'm going to ask them to change it again. QUESTION is, IF it hadn't been maintained up till now, am I screwed in any way? Should I switch to synthetic?
    Since it is under warranty, is there anything i should have checked out now?

    Dealer is fairly large, and seemed really great. (no haggle pricing). I hope it is all as good as it seems!
  • I pasted this information from JD Power's website. Hopw this helps ya.

    To qualify for our definition of a "certified used" vehicle, the warranty must be backed by the original vehicle manufacturer. The original manufacturer of the vehicle is using its dealer network to inspect the car, determine if it is worth certifying and then offer support for the vehicle for a period of time beyond the original warranty. Not all used cars can qualify for certified pre-owned programs, and terms vary from one brand to the next, but any true certified pre-owned program will include at least a 100-point inspection of the car. If problems are found, the factory-trained technicians will fix it or disqualify the car from the program. The certified warranty protection typically takes effect when the original warranty expires and, like a new car warranty, offers coverage for a certain number of years or miles, whichever comes first.

    Used cars sold with third-party warranties are sometimes advertised as "certified" but are not truly factory-certified because the authority and expertise of the vehicle's manufacturer is not standing behind the "warranty" in any way. In fact, the term "warranty" may be misleading, as third-party warranties are really just extended service contracts that the buyer must purchase at an additional cost. Extended service contracts can usually be purchased for any vehicle, and the vehicle's manufacturer is not involved in any coverage promised by the aftermarket service contract. A true warranty offers coverage that is included in the original purchase price.

    The major downside to third-party service contracts is that they often obligate the customer to pay for needed repairs up front, and then wait for a reimbursement check; some require the payment of a deductible that can vary from $50 to $400. In addition, there is always the risk that the insurance company or other underwriter of the service contract will not be around to honor the warranty when a claim is made — this risk is much less when the responsible party is a vehicle manufacturer. Also, most extended service contracts do not require the rigorous inspection and repair procedures that a real certified program offers.
  • whitallwhitall Posts: 187
    Bought our new used Altima 2.5S w/ 19500 miles on Monday night. All was fine during test drive. On the ride home of about 30 miles (my son-the owner driving) he said the tire light w/exclamation point came on. It has stayed on since. It was on dealer lot for about a month or less, before that don't know how long it sat.

    We checked the pressure about 20 minutes after he got home from school, about 1.5 mile ride and the driver front was 32 and the others were about 37. I think they are the original tires. They are Conti-something.

    I've read that even though the door says 32, that many people keep them higher.

    So, is the light most likely on because 3 are over-filled, one is under-filled, or because one of the four doesn't match the other 3??

    Never had this type of monitoring system before...

    Also, I think the back two have more tread than the front two. Have no records on it to speak of. Is it best to rotate them now going into summer. Son drives about 10k year. No idea if they've ever been rotated. I'm thinking that since it's front wheel drive, and the front are more worn that the owner (private lease) might not have ever rotated causing the front to wear more. Does this make proper sense?

    I want to get him started off right. Thanks
  • mz6greyghostmz6greyghost Posts: 1,230
    The light could be on for a few reasons, but not because they aren't the same pressure, nor are they over-inflated. The light won't go on for those reasons.

    Inflate them all to 35 psi, then give it up to 20 miles. If the light does not go off, there may be a problem with the TPMS system itself...

    Good luck.
  • whitallwhitall Posts: 187
    I'll have my son do that. Can it be a serious problem? Should any problem with the system itself (not inflation levels) be under warranty? The car has a "limited" (powertrain I think) warranty with the dealer we bought it from, but is still under the new car warranty from Nissan. Also, we bought it on Monday evening and the dealer has a 4 day 300 mile return policy, so if it was really bad we could change our mind. He really likes it and we feel we got a good price.

    Lastly, this tpms is not going to affect anything regarding safety or driveability right? I mean could we drive without the sensors and be fine? We'd just have a light on.

    I live in NJ. It's known to be a bit of a "nanny" state. You fail inspection if the check engine light is on, I'm sure it's a matter of time before they fail us for the tire light!

    Thanks for your help. We just got rid of an older car that made me neurotic about what could go wrong next or what maintenance/repair was needed. Got this much newer one to avoid that! (and of course I find something to obsess over anyway!)
  • mz6greyghostmz6greyghost Posts: 1,230
    I'll have my son do that. Can it be a serious problem? Should any problem with the system itself (not inflation levels) be under warranty? The car has a "limited" (powertrain I think) warranty with the dealer we bought it from, but is still under the new car warranty from Nissan

    If the light stays on, in MOST cases it's a sensor in the wheel itself that can go bad, which isn't too expensive to fix. If it's still under the Nissan warranty, it should be covered fully under the Nissan warranty.

    Lastly, this tpms is not going to affect anything regarding safety or driveability right? I mean could we drive without the sensors and be fine? We'd just have a light on.

    It'll be fine. Case in point: we bought separate winter tires/wheels for my wife's '07 Altima, and at the time, the TPMS sensors were WAY too expensive (over $100 apiece!) to even consider, so we go without them for the winter. The only thing that happens is the TPMS light flashing for the first 30 seconds after start-up, then it stays on. It doesn't affect any other system, and since I check the tire pressure religiously...

    I live in NJ. It's known to be a bit of a "nanny" state. You fail inspection if the check engine light is on, I'm sure it's a matter of time before they fail us for the tire light!

    If NY doesn't fail you (where I live), then I highly doubt that NJ would, although I could be wrong... :)

    Thanks for your help. We just got rid of an older car that made me neurotic about what could go wrong next or what maintenance/repair was needed. Got this much newer one to avoid that! (and of course I find something to obsess over anyway!)

    You're not alone. I obsess over NEW cars just as much. ;)
  • jd10013jd10013 Posts: 779
    just inflate your tires and they should be fine. I'd also recomend a new tire guage. they're cheap, and can start giving inacurate readings over time.

    keep in mind, air does pass through the tires (in very small amounts), and over time you tires will go flat.

    And if I'm not mistaken, a 10% drop in tire pressure will trigger the TPMS light.
  • jkipejkipe Posts: 1
    My son has purchased an oil pressure switch for his 2000 Nissan Altima. Where is it located on the engine? Is there a drawing, picture, etc. available?
  • dcupdcup Posts: 4
    Ive got a 2002 Nissan ALtima. Ive been having problems with the cruise control when Im driving on the interstate. When you get up to about 70 mph, the cruise kicks off and the car starts jerking a little bit. I thought it might be a clogged injector but I ran "Sea Foam" through it a couple of times and it only helps for a couple of days ( i drive on the interstate daily). When it jerks, the abs, and tcs lights come on and stay on. Any ideas before i go get raped by a mechanic?
  • gsemikegsemike Long Island, NYPosts: 1,775
    Is it absolutely only when cruise control is on? If so, then it's got to be an electronic problem
  • dcupdcup Posts: 4
    No, it actually does it on the highway at high speeds, regardless of cruise control. Eventually it stops doing it, but not until the lights on the instrument panel all come on and stay on. It never does it unless we reach speeds around 70 mph, never does it while doing in-town driving.
  • jd10013jd10013 Posts: 779
    if your worried about getting raped by a mechanic, just go to an advance auto parts store. they'll do a free code scan for you.

    to me, sounds like it might be a crank position sensor. In fact, I believe there was a recall issued for them some time back.
  • altimaguy3altimaguy3 Posts: 1
    Hey, i'm having exactly same problem in 06 Altima 2.5S... slight hop at 20-30mph... even though the wheels are balanced and aligned.... did you find a solution?
  • massmom23massmom23 Posts: 1
    Hubby's 97 Altima dropped it's exhaust yesterday after a few days of soundling more like a Cesna than a car. It's the round piece way up under the car and attached to a pipe. Considering the noise, I'm assuming it's the exhaust? We're on a ridiculously tight budget and cannot afford either a new car or an expensive fix. What can I do? Should I go to a repair shop what questions do I ask? What am I looking at? I'm not even sure I should be driving it with the thing hanging on the ground. Any help would be most appreciated!
  • skinsfan3skinsfan3 Posts: 78
    Sounds to me as if it may be a tailpipe hanger. That should be a quick and easy fix. If they can't do it, welding it on my do. That would depend on how close it is to the gast tank.Any decent mechanic could do it. I would not have a dealer do it, since that could be costly. good luck. Don't let them sell you a new exhaust system! They may try to tell you you need a new muffler. I am not familiar with the 97 setup, but on some cars you hae to but the muffler with tail pipe.Even if the noise is coming from the tail pipe, they can do a muffler weld. That is tricky and some shops will refuse to do it, claiming safety problems.
  • jd10013jd10013 Posts: 779
    a '97 and you may need a new exhaust. 12 years is a long time for exhaust pipes and mufflers. but in additon to the dealership, aviod Midas and Minekie. they rip you off so bad even the dealerships will blush.

    just go to a respectable garage. even if you need new exaust, it can probably be done for a couple hundred.
  • dcupdcup Posts: 4
    No, I have not, I will be finding out this weekend. Do your RPM's jump when it happens? Mine happens at high speeds until all the dash lights come on, then it stops.
  • dcupdcup Posts: 4
    If there is a recall, do I qualify for the recall, even though I bought the car used? Im going to Advanced this weekend to get the code scan and find out if they know anything.
  • rugmankcrugmankc Posts: 133
    I have a 94 Altima, and the last year or so I have been having debris from outside come thru the vents and into the car. Some is large like whole twirly birds. The cowel screens look good and I dropped the blower motor and cleaned squirrel cage. Not much there. I think something has deteriorated and fallen out or something was removed and not replaced during some AC work done under the dash. I know nothing about this stuff, but it seems there is now a direct route from outside to the back of all the air vents inside the car, and when the fan runs this stuff is blown through all three. Air filter is in place and clean.

    Need to solve this, since otherwise the car is running great.

    Ken
  • tomb13tomb13 Posts: 1
    I've got a 97 altima, manual tranny. It knocks when i coast into stops, but only when in gear, not when clutch is pushed it. anyone know or experience this problem?
  • rosealeerosealee Posts: 1
    What year is your Altima? I have been experiencing problems after driving my Nissan Altima.
  • jft26jft26 Posts: 35
    I have 41K on my 2006 Altima 2.5L. Does anyone know the maintenance interval for the PCV Valve? How much does the dealer service cost to replace it? How easy is it to replace yourself? Thank you.
  • skinsfan3skinsfan3 Posts: 78
    When it comes to car repair, I operate under the concept "if it ain't broken, don't fix it,"
  • I'm not sure if this is what you are referring to but i had a 1999 Altima and after about two years, whenever it would rain hard or when i would wash the car, the floor behind the passenger;s seat would get soaking wet. Took it to the delaer and they replaced the rubber gasket that site on the ledge of the door at the top where the window goes up and down. No more leaks. Hope this helps.
  • skinsfan3skinsfan3 Posts: 78
    In the past, I found that leaks in the trunk came from misalignment of the rear trund lid in the event the car may have been rear ended. At other times, I had new gaskets installed by firms that did windshield repairs. That was fairly inexpensive.
  • epecepec Posts: 16
    Hi, A/C of my 2000 nissan altima does not work this year. I have the garage to check it and was told a leak form high and low side schrader valves. also they wanted to recharge with super-seal pro, the toal cost me 350$. My understanding the schrader valves are the port where I rechage 134a and seems the part is very cheap. also the whole can of super-seal pro on amazon is only 25$. Any suggestion here whether I can do it myself. any one know a good part store I can but the schrade valves (with cap I belive). Thanks
  • jd10013jd10013 Posts: 779
    if you don't know anything about refrigeration, or air conditioning; and you don't have the correct tools or gauges; then I wouldn't mess with it.
  • normhnormh Posts: 31
    My wifes '02 4 cylinder has a small problem. Some times when she starts it, there is a short period of vibration that is coming form an ignition misfire. It la :confuse: ts only a few seconds and is over. The car runs fine at all other times.

    Any suggestions???
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