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Nissan Altima Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • Your problem sounds just plain crazy to me. There IS obviously something wrong with it, and I would demand that those incompetent #@!!#?*! FIX IT!!!
  • ray_h1ray_h1 Posts: 1,134
    )) "I do get some engine tappet like noise on start up in cold weather, but it goes away." ((

    That's just the camshaft drive timing chain rattling around its plastic retaining guides on initial startup until the chain's autotensioner pumps up with full oil pressure - very common in chain equipped engines in cold weather since thick, cold oil takes longer to put into circulation. If you're using 10W-30 motor oil, consider 5W-30 to help with cold starting and its associated noises.
  • This should not be normal. Occasionally it may take a couple of trips to get a rattle fixed because they are so hard to find. Every manufacturer has one that gets away but your dealer or maybe another dealer with a better, more experienced tech can diagnose and repair the problem. We had a Sienna that Toyota tried to align the front end 6 times and to no avail. I was ready to scream and with replacement of the tires (Firestone to Michelin) the problem became more tolerable and I lived with it.

    Nissan, because they got slammed with the 2002 Altima launch squeaks and rattles issues, recently installed a new test track at both US assembly tracks to check cars/trucks prior to shipment. I heard they spent 7 figures on both tracks because they know it matters to customers. I think The Clarion in Canton Mississippi done a right up on the project at the Canton plant.

    Try the dealer or another one since you are travelling so far you are bound to run into another dealer along the way.
  • atma97atma97 Posts: 47
    Re. “battery keeps getting drained” issue, I experienced a couple times in the past nine years with my 97’ Altima. There are three things that might cause the symptom: 1) Bad battery 2) Bad alternator 3) Electrical circuit in the car still has a significant load even when the car is not driven. The first two are 99% common problems. You can bring the battery back to where it came, they should recharge and test the battery for you. If they are reluctance, tell them your mechanic said good alternator but bad battery. Auto parts store also does battery testing. Alternator can be tested by measuring its out put voltage. A good repair shop or a Nissan dealer can compare the voltage reading with the car specification in manufacture repair manual. Try the battery and alternator first before getting into the electrical circuit issue. The car circuit is well designed and isolated. Problem only happens after the car was submerged, involved in a bad accidence, or installed after-market accessories. A normal car circuit should always carry very tiny load to keep memory for radio, clock, and alarm system. Getting into this testing will require time, skill and knowledge of the car wiring diagram. Always be careful to avoid airbag and engine computer unit wiring.
  • gsemikegsemike Long Island, NYPosts: 1,743
    I've got a 2003 2.5S with the original Bridgestone Turnenzas. At 40k, the tires still look pretty decent. I leased my last car so it's been quite a while since I replaced tires.

    How long have others gotten out of these tires? I started watching them around 30,000 and always rotated them as recommended. The tread still looks good.
  • I have a new 06 Altima and I have a question about the parking brake. I'm not sure if it's broken or not, but it seems to go up too easily and not really engage at all. Shouldn't it have some resistance when I raise the lever for the parking brake? Has anyone else had this issue with their Altima?
  • The LOOK good, but how DEEP is the THREAD? They sell an inexpensive small device to measure tread depth. It is measured in 32nds of an inch. Most new tires have 11/32" of tread depth. Tires are legally worn out when the tread depth is 2/32" or less. Check the tread depth at several places around the tire, and use the thinnnest number.
  • I don't think that having the parking break slide as freely as you describe is normal. I have a 2006 Altime 2.5 SE and my parking break is actually kinda stiff. You really need to have it looked at.
  • atma97atma97 Posts: 47
    Watch out for tire traction in wet or snow weather. If you feel the car slightly skid or loose, you should consider of replacing the tires. Turanza tire does not have good traction on wet and snow. I replaced Turanza front tires on my Infiniti I35 (a bigger cousin of Altima) at 45k miles since they skid while quick accelerating from a stop. The rear tires have just been replaced at 75k miles to avoid oversteering in winter. My new Michelin Energy MXV4 tires have amazing grip on wet and dry road. You can check out tirerack.com and discounttire.com for more information.
  • ray_h1ray_h1 Posts: 1,134
    You should feel preliminary tensioning as you pull the parking brake lever up after the first 3 or 4 clicks, so have your dealer check this out. It may just be a cable tension adjustment matter*, but assume nothing. The parking brake should be able hold the car against gravity on any reasonably anticipated incline with the transmission in neutral and your foot off the service brake pedal.

    *The parking brake in my '03 Sonata was sufficiently slack when I took delivery four years ago that it wouldn't hold the car against my inclined driveway. I readjusted the individual rear wheel parking brake cables at the equalizing yoke after I removed the center console.
  • Thank you all for your inputs.
    Computer read is out, it is a bad crankshaft position sensor.
    Will have it replaced at dealership tomorrow, quote is $195.
  • hello this is arron altima these two mess were not posted by me
  • Any on know what the largest tire on my 17 rims can be applied
  • atma97atma97 Posts: 47
    www.discounttire.com/dtcs/infoTireMath.dos
    They have calculator for tire size conversion.
  • Just completing our first 30 day's with our New Nissan Altima 2.5 s.

    Ok now let's understand New Car with lot's of redesign so this post is not to slam Nissan because I think they have a good car here. But let's get these issues on the table so Nissan can address them.

    Our first sign of trouble was a rattle with the rear speakers.

    Our second is a nasty valve rattle when the vehicle first starts up.

    Our third is that we can't seem to get better than 29 MPG. (Our 05 and 06 got 30 on the HW) This one is rated for 34

    Today's problem occurred at 1730 miles. Check engine soon warning. Now this may be a simple gas cap issue. But I checked it as the manual suggested and we will try for another day. Before going to the dealer.

    The transmission takes some getting use too. Seems the tranny down shifts a bit too quickly on down hills. Puts unusual drag on the vehicle.

    But overall We like this car. It handles well, much more comfortable. A little sportier, but the woman is not happy with the shortage of storage over the 06.

    I like the fact that steering pull has been eliminated.

    Well that brings everyone up to date. Let me know your feelings. Ill let you know what the dealer does to fix these small issues.....
  • atma97atma97 Posts: 47
    Its TIMING was off. I overlooked the timing when I did a tune up on my car. Since timing chain on the car was not supposed to be replaced, I did not pay attention to it at all. My car had developed a noticeable rough idle this fall. I did some research on Google website and found that timing could be easily adjusted. There are to bolts located around distributor. Loosen bolts and turned distributor clockwise, the car was instantly smooth. I tested drive at various speed and adjusted distributor position a little back and ford to get to a compromise stage of smoothness and power. Now at idle, speed drops down to about 600 rpm and I hardly hear engine noise or vibration at all. The problem got fixed and I did not have to spend a penny.
  • catamcatam Posts: 331
    Just quick FYI. You should at some point actually set your timing with a timing light. You do the same basic proceedure that you mentioned but use a timing light to set the timing to specs. The setting should be on the under hood decal usually it is about 4 to 8 degrees BTC. (I don't know specifically for your car.)
    There are 2 probs with setting it to "best run". First, you may not pass your next emision test, as your car will difinitely be producing more HC and CO. The second is you will probably notice a drop in gas mileage.
    Other possible probs include, knocking or pinging under hard accel, and loss of power at certain RPM ranges.
  • kwk1kwk1 Posts: 39
    I've done a lot of reading on the Maxima forum about the coil packs prematurely going faulty.
    I was wondering if anyone has had this problem with their Altima.
  • atma97atma97 Posts: 47
    Very good point, thank you for the info. With the need of using timing light, knowing where to point the light and watching timing mark in the strobe light, I got to be shown by an expert for the first time. Meanwhile, I rather wait for another 10k miles on the car when sentiment bell scheduled to be replaced then I will ask a mechanic to fix both bell and timing.
  • You should have it timed right away. Timing by ear can be off enough to harm the engine and if you are too far advanced, that could prove troublesome. Usually, however, it is retarded timing that smooths out an idle.
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