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Nissan Altima Maintenance and Repair



  • atma97atma97 Posts: 47
    Will get it done right away. Thanks.
  • have you solved this problem yet? What did you do?
  • I just purchased a 2003 Nissan ....experiencing the same heating problem at idle.........ANY LUCK WITH YOURS?
  • Have you been able ot resolve your issue? I just bought my 2003 Altima...with same problems.and Nissan tried teice already.........
  • I have a 2002 Nissan Altima with the same problem and no luck in finding a fix. Heater only blows hot when I am driving above 40mph. I would greatly appreciate anyones feedback on how they fixed it.
  • ray_h1ray_h1 Posts: 1,134
    Presumably both of the above posts reflect that the cars' owners have kept their cars' radiators topped up with the proper coolant/antifreeze diluted to 50% working concentration. If there is insufficient heat from the heater or defroster vents at idle and/or low vehicle speeds, then there is insufficient coolant, or insufficiently heated coolant, circulating through the heater core. The cause may be something as simple (and cheap) as a defective thermostat (stuck fully "open" or nearly so). On the flip side, the cause may be something as nasty (and expensive) as a nearly clogged heater core and/or heat control valve. (Heater cores and heat control valves don't come cheap - nor do the labor charges to access and replace heater cores.) There're a nearly infinite number of intermediate possibilities that may have to be explored to resolve an insufficient cabin heating problem - even moreso if automatic climate control is also involved. Good luck, guys.
  • jake38jake38 Posts: 1
    I have transmission oil getting into my water which is turning it into brown slush.I have a 4ltre ohc ford engine
    in a 95 ef falcon.Car is still running well and i have no probs any where else.what could be the cause of this????????
  • Hi,

    I am new to the push button start cars and was wondering how someone would listen to the radio and have the engine off. I do this now when I am early to work.
  • Push the "Start" button without your foot on the brake ( the car won't start without your foot on the brake ) ; this will power the accessories ... NOW push the radio button to turn on the radio ...
  • Also know that you must completely turn the car off then push the button (without your foot on the pedal) to get the accessories to work, if you want to, say, drop a friend at the store and you wait in the parking lot listening to the radio. Nissan didn't program the car so that you could hit the button once to stop the engine and still be able to listen to the radio. This is not the most convenient way to go but push button starting is a very nice feature. My wife loves it.
  • Yeah, we had push button start cars back in the 1940's, except the button was on the floor. I liked them back then too.
  • ray_h1ray_h1 Posts: 1,134
    Yeah - and then people raved when "the next newest thing" came along about how much more convenient things suddenly became, when (swoon...), it was only necessary to twist the ignition key a little farther to crank the engine with one fluid motion of the wrist! Push button starting is a solution in search of a problem as far as I'm concerned. But, for those who disagree, far be it from me to spoil the enjoyment of your toyz. ;)
  • jmewesjmewes Posts: 1
    I see many posts on this board about catalytic converters, heater problems, burning oil, etc. I've recently found out they're all related. The engine can be damaged by parts from the 'precat' or certain butterfly screws being sucked back into the engine. The symptoms of this damage are oil and coolant usage. The car shows no signs of leakage or burning, but yet they disappear. Your car is throwing oil and coolant into the cylinders and needs a new engine. The burning of the coolant reduces the coolant level in your car and it doesn't circulate through the heater core. Topping off your coolant will fix the heater problem temporarily. The oil that your car is burning can ruin the catalytic converter. I've heard people say the opposite - that parts from the catalytic converter are being sucked into the engine and causing the engine damage, but from what little I know I think the problem actually originates in the 'precat' disintegrating.

    No matter how it happens it doesn't come out good for us owners. The problems generally begin to appear around or just after the time the warranty expires, usually between 60K and 90K miles. I've read numerous posts around the web on the problem. Some people have had good luck getting their dealer or Nissan to help cover the costs of engine replacement, many haven't been so lucky. The verdict is still out on my case, I'm expecting to hear from Nissan early next week. I should also note that I've seen people getting quotes of up to $6000 to replace the engine. My local dealer, whom I feel has treated me well through the troubleshooting phase, quoted me $2898 for labor and parts to replace the entire engine ('long block'). I don't know if that's rebuilt or new.
  • I learned the hard way. Had to do it a few times until I can get it shut easily into the closed position.. I rarely trust that it is fully closed, but I run my hand outside the window to feel if the gaskets on top are aligned properly.
  • My local dealer tells me that it is time. I could not find anything in my owner's manual about that.

    By the way, for those having atarting prolems (I have a 2003), we ran into a no start after a few days of not running the car. I went to three dealers, one of ehom said I needed a new radiator and replaced it under a warranty that I would think Nissan would have questioned. I have been driving for a zillion years and as far as I know, I can't see any relationshipbetween failure to start and a radiator, unless there was a leaking hose getting on plugs. The final solution was a defective alternator. I was fairly sure that was the problem.
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,915
    Follow your owner's manual.
  • Thanks for the advice. Actually, I do not recall having seen itin the manual. I suppose I was relying upon my past experiences.I always stayed away from dealers, since I know of many cases where the costs of repair were substantially above the book value of the car. In my case, I had a 30,000 maintenance done ahead of time, which ran me over $800 at a dealer. On the other hand, other than plugs and air filters, I have had great success with oil changes at 3,000 miles despite supposed 6,000 changes as suggested by many auto manufacturers. I had over 290,000 miles on my 86' MR2 (which I miss now that I have sold it.) and 220,00 on my 68 Barracuda (I am original owner) sold it last year. So, I hope to get as much out of my Altima.
  • Yes, and it would spit and sputter for five minutes before you could back out of the driveway. Then, you'd start down the street with the thing lurching and spitting every few feet. Finally, out on the highway, the engine'd be churning away at 3,100 RPM at 60 because of the 4.11 final drive and no overdrive, at least on GM cars.;)
  • Help...I have a 99 Altima 75K and everytime I turn off the ignition the car acts like i am in a rodeo riding a bull starving for for gas to keep going..I recently had to get a new battery installed. Any ideas?????
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