Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





2013 and earlier Nissan Altima Prices Paid and Buying Experience

1142143145147148170

Comments

  • leeevansleeevans Posts: 2
    Floor mats and splash guards too. . .
  • dbphxdbphx Posts: 3
    edited March 2011
    trading in 2005 nissan maxima, SE, with leather + most option (good condition - 81K) miles. They are giving me $9K credit (with $4k cashback), and a 39 month (15k/year) term, with monthly payment of $220/month + 2 years free oil changes. car would be altima with leather, bose, power seats, xm, blue tooth, etc. does this sound like a good deal? Phoenix, AZ - and their 'special' ends 3/31...
  • This site is great. I have been using it along with true car in my negotiations on a 2011 2.5SL Altima, however, I have a question for you all. I understand the true car prices are based on the 1250 dollar incentive currently offered by Nissan but True Car also notes the the dealer's cost on the website (I assume this is the dealer invoice and not the factory invoice they flash in front of you later in the negotiations) as $23,305. I offered $22,800 to start the bidding on a 2.5 S with the conv, conv +, and the SL package on a 4 cylinder. I am hearing that there is no way they can go that low, though they were fine with $22,800 as an outright purchase price. Any thoughts on this? The way I look at it is if they are OK with this as a purchase price which would account for the $1250 incentive cash then at a maximum the cost for a lease should be $22,800 + $1250 = $24050. Has anyone gotten a better cost on a lease for the same vehicle? True Car indicates their cost is $23,305...in determining their profit on the car would you add the Doc fee to their cost or would you consider that part of the $23,305? In other words, if I were to offer $24,000 plus TTL would they make $695?

    Thanks for your help and I will keep you all posted on what I hear from the dealer(s).
  • couple of pointers.You are correct in that a purchase may have a rebate(the altima currently is 1250) and the lease may not have any lease cash so the actual price for a lease would be 1250 higher but that is often made up with money factors and residual costs. Nissan through the end of march had programs that some dealers chose to paticipate in and some chose not to. There was nissan money for the dealers if the dealer could sell enough. That is why for example at our dealer ship we had up to six thousand off sticker for altimas in march and some dealers were 2000 more only 4000 off.if a dealer didnt think they were going to sell enough to be able to get the money from nissan they were not going to be able to give 6000 off. Programs are updated monthly and for now you just missed the boat.Because of high demand of fuel effecient cars and the shortage of electronic parts(FOR ALL CARS)rebates and incentives have just been cut across the board cars made soley in japan are selling at sticker and above in some cases.
  • jsalimaojsalimao Posts: 1
    Hi All,
    New to the forums. Perhaps I should have checked this forum out before I purchased my Altima yesterday as I probably could have gotten a better deal.

    Here was my deal:
    2011 Altima SL + conv package
    39month Lease
    Invoice: $23,155
    Purchase: $22,679 (Was supposed to be $21,790...more on that later)
    Down payment: $0
    Trade In: $265 (This was a lease that was ending the 5th...no real equity)
    Payment: $279/month w/ $0 down and 12K miles

    Overall how bad is this deal? I was happy I got anything for my lease trade in because it was in not so good shape and I'm sure I would have gotten pinged for something if I handed back to Toyota.

    My second question is related to how I was ripped off in the finance office. This is my fault that I didn't ask enough questions but regardless they acted very shady.

    At the table the salesman agreed to $1100 under invoice - $265 = $21,790 and said my payments would be $279/month with tax. First he just showed me the just the monthly payment and I told him I wanted to talk price not monthly payment. So this is when we came up with the $21,790 price and the payments didn't change...I should have been suspicious then.

    When I got into the Finance office the price showed $22,760. I said that doesn't seem right and the finance manager assured me that this wasn't the actually price and that he had to fudge the numbers for the paperwork. Well I was looking over my paperwork and my lease payment was indeed calculated off this number. This would have been about a $20 difference/month.

    I am extremely upset and put a call into the sales manager and the finance manager. Any advice on how to handle this?

    I really appreciate any input as we all know what it feels like to get ripped...and its not a good feeling.

    Thanks guys,
    Joe
  • junjjunj Posts: 3
    MSRP 27K, got a sell price around 22-23K. Is this a good deal?
  • Joe,

    I am currently in negotiations on a 2011 2.5SL similar to yours. I have been pretty strong, I think :), on negotiations and I above your price for the negotiated fee but pretty close on the monthly payment. I am now hesitant as to what is going on with your deal. If I run your numbers of the purchase and MSRP along with 39 mos, .00103 MF, and 57% residual, I assumed 10% tax, I get a monthly payment of 247/mo. But you are saying they are charging you $279/mo...not sure what is going on. Is your MF and/or residual different than I assumed above?
  • Anyone have experience in purchasing warranty extension service of 3 months to close the gap on a 39 mo lease for Nissan Altima. I was quoted $399 from the dealer and curious if this is what you are all seeing as well.
  • dbphxdbphx Posts: 3
    ok, well, no one told me about tax, warranty and all that crap. $270/month, with dents and all maintenance covered, no deductible. i have no clue what a mf is. i have no intent of keeping this car. i am not even sure what model it is. 2.5 s or s-something. 4 doors, automatic, convenience package, leather and a bunch of other stuff. i got a 39 month/45K warranty. it is possible. sorry i am clueless. i had to car shop.
  • jagerbombsjagerbombs Posts: 2
    edited April 2011
    Hello all,

    I was looking for the exact same car as "carlurker" purchased except with the addition of the SL package and no alloy wheels. Based on his results, do you think that I would be able to get a 2011 Altima SL w/ Conv, Conv plus, prem audio, splash guards, mats for around $24,00 OTD?

    Using USAA Car buying services put the "Target Price" at $25,262 before any TTL and fees. I currently live in Texas and willing to travel anywhere from the Dallas area to the Austin area to the San Antonio area to get the best deal! Anyone have suggestions of dealerships or a suggested OTD for a great deal? Thanks!
  • Hi all -

    I am attempting to negotiate my very first car deal on my own and there is a lot I don't know. I used True Car to negotiate a price on a 2011 Nissan Altima 4dr Sedan I4 CVT 2.5 S with the convenience pkg, convenience plus pkg and the premium audio pkg. The price that True Car came up with was $23,109, which is apparently $1,750 below invoice. My question is, can that price be translated to a lease option and if so, how? And what would that lease monthly payment be? How in the heck do I negotiate a lease? I know it can be done, but I don't know how.

    Thanks for any help you can give.
  • dagemdagem Posts: 13
    Start here, with Edmonds "Confessions"

    Sales people still use these tricks and techniques, at least they did with me at the local Chevy dealer.

    I personally would start @ $22,500 and I would mention during negotiations that "if the sales manager isn't crying when we get done, I'm not getting the deal I want" then smile. They start with the margins on their side, you start lower than you will accept and hopefully you can meet right around your "true price".

    Negotiate the final cost of the vehicle, NOT the payments or financing, you will have to keep telling them that over and over again. They will continue to mention how low your payments will be, and ask how that sounds.

    If possible get financing done with your bank or credit union, that way you can get the discounts, instead of the low financing. Use Cars.com's calculator to figure out which way will work better for you.

    The best advice I can give is be ready to walk away, when family/friends want me to go car shopping with them I always tell, "If you aren't willing to walk, I'm not going"

    Don't worry if they print out an "invoice" it's mostly smoke and mirrors, and is usually not the dealers actual cost. Be ready for them to hold onto that price as long as they can, some dealers may not drop lower, and it helps if there is more than Nissan (or who ever) dealer in your area. Mention you are going to check them out before you decide.

    Don't buy that day, get their best deal AND THINK on it, they will tell you often that this deal is "today and today only", and I always say, "oh ok, then I'm wasting your time, this is a big decision and I won't make it lightly" or something to that effect. Don't expect them to let you walk with anything in writing, that they write down, but you can take a notebook and make notes for yourself.

    Good luck, sorry for the long winded answer. I hope it made sense and helped. :) I could go on for hours, but I wont.
  • k_pfeifk_pfeif Posts: 1
    I'm going crazy with the analysis.

    Our 1997 Maxima has about had it. The engine is still great, but things are FINALLY starting to fail on it...and it doesn't look that great. It's time for a new car, then. Or at least a new one to us.

    Here's all of the inputs into the decision...

    1. As you may have guessed, we drive cars until they are dead dead dead. We'll want this one to last 10 years. I have a GREAT mechanic, too.

    2. Certainly the cost is very importanat. We finally got done paying off our 2006 Honda Odyssey, our first new car. We will have had zero car payments for 2 months before we get into this one.

    3. Our credit scores are good - above 800.

    4. Gas mileage is important, so we'd like a 4 cylinder.

    5. Leather in important, due to the kids. I also think it tends to hold up much better over a long time vs fabric, and, since we plan on keeping the car for a long time, that may be important.

    6. Audio. Hmm. Yeah, I really like the Bose system in the Maxima, but the Bose option adds another $1,000 to the price of a new car. Also, once you install a Bose, you're locked into it - it's totally proprietry. I can see getting the "stock" audio system and someday replacing it with a double DIN audio system with backup camera, etc.

    We're in SE Wisconsin, and TrueCar says the "Best Price" around is $25,077 (not including the rebate) for an SL with stock audio, add on Bluetooth, and mats.

    Certified Used 2009 SL's with around 30,000 miles are around...they're going for around $20,200 "Certified Dealer Retail", $19,112 Retail, $17,101 Private Party, and $15,037 Tradein via Edmunds pricing.

    Nissan has the new car 0 percent financing, but they also have low interest on their certified used cars.... 1.99% for 48 months, 2.49% for 60. Buying a loaded used SL seems great until you compare it to the cost of NEW Altima S with Convenience - $22,679, according to TrueCar. Cloth seats, but still a nice little car...but without the gadgets we've grown accustomed to in our Maxima (in Wisconsin, the heated leather seats are AWESOME).

    Where is my question? Let's start with this - what do you think regarding new "S" vs used SL?

    Next, I don't understand pricing the used SL. Edmunds indicates the Dealer Certified, but I'm not paying that. Where do I start negotiating? The way I see it, they're getting the car for trade in value, putting maybe $500-$750 in it for the reconditioning and the silly limited warranty, and they want to make some profit in there. Should I start at trade-in value + $1,000 and go up, with a realistic deal price of somewhere between the private party price and dealer retail?

    Ah!

    I don't think we can swing the new SL...that's a lot of coin.
  • I am looking for an Altima 2.5S sedan with Convenience, Convenience Plus, SL, mudflaps, bluetooth,moonroof reflector, floor mats, trunk org/first aid.

    I was quoted 950.00 down 349.00 month including tax...No other charges. Considering the some are saying do to hold ups up in Japan ,Nissan is not offering as good a special as in the past few months...is the above a decent deal?

    I was told residual is 58% and money factor is .00109 Does anyone know if this is correct?
    Thanks ahead of time.
  • reddy5reddy5 Posts: 1
    edited April 2011
    I bought Nissam Altima 2.5S without adding any options for $19800+Taxes and fees. Made down payment of $2000 and 0% APR for Five years. Please let me know if I made the right choice as far as the price is concerned.
  • ninja15ninja15 Posts: 3
    Hello,
    I am a first time buyer looking for Nissan Altima 2.5 s with Convenience, Convenience plus and 2.5 SL packages.
    The price I am getting is $23,500 + Tax & TTL. It includes floor mats & splash guards.
    Can someone tell me if this is a good price or not?
  • jagerbombsjagerbombs Posts: 2
    I got a quote for the exact same vehicle PLUS the Premium Audio package for $23,500 +TTL (this included a $1250 rebate though)
    I never did buy the vehicle, just what I got quoted at.
  • cheru1cheru1 Posts: 2
    I am looking at 2008 Altima SL (Certified) with Bose audio and Blue tooth with 49000 miles on it.
    The dealer is quoting $17000 + TTL.

    Is this a good price?

    Please let me know.

    Regards

    Cheru
  • skyfan1skyfan1 Posts: 37
    It is my un-expert opinion that it seems a little too high, however hope you get other answers.
  • cheru1cheru1 Posts: 2
    Thanks skyfan1 for the reply.

    What would be a good price for this car?

    Regards

    Cheru
Sign In or Register to comment.